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[QUOTE="SantiagoCruzB, post: 1192052, member: 98657"] Oct 19 Moratinos – Sahagun – El Burgo Ranero We planned to leave at 0630 but raining heavily and very dark outside, so we decided to wait until it was light enough. Since the Albergue serves breakfast at 0700 and it will be a while before we can leave we decided to have breakfast there. We joined Mary and Sasha (she’s walking with her dog Dana) and exchanged notes about the weather. Sasha, who has been following the weather reports closely said it will only worsen later in the day so she was going straight to Leon and taking a few days off to let her injured knee recover. She originally intended to walk a shorter distance today but changed her mind because of the weather. We set off with Mary at 0830. By then there was enough light we didn’t need headlamps but it was cold, the rain was pouring, and the wind was blowing strong. We were all decked in our rain gear. Mary walked ahead by about 100 meters setting a brisk pace but a few kilometers outside Moratinos, a couple in sandals, the wife with an umbrella rigged to her pack raced past Tess and I. Mary slowed them down and chatted with them and we caught up with them. They were Emmanuel and Beatriz who were the first peregrinos we met in SJPP. At that time, they had already walked 30 days from Le Puy. Mary had also met them previously and we had talked about them at dinner the night before. We had a nice joyful mini reunion on the trail in the pouring rain, talking pics and selfies. (A couple of peregrinos passed us at this point) Beatriz’s sister, who was with them in SJPP when we met them, has slowed down and is still in Castrojeriz. They will not meet her again on this Camino. I remember Beatriz saying she has a prosthetic knee but she walks very fast. Emmanuel and Beatriz chatted with Mary until San Nicolas where they went into this Japanese albergue for a break. I think they started in Ledigos so would have been on the road for a while. They have to be in El Burgo Ranero by 1500 or their beds will be given away to other peregrinos and they were planning to walk all the way despite the inclement weather. I hope they made it on time. Mary, Tess, and I decided to walk on. We set a brisk but chatting pace. The girls managed to chat all the way from San Nicolas to Sahagun despite the rain and the wind. Just outside Sahagun, the trail detours away from the town to the Ermita de la Virgen del Puente, which I’ve read is the halfway point of the CF and where they issue halfway Compostela. It was closed but a worker drove up, unlocked the doors, and allowed us inside just to show that it was undergoing renovation. By this time other pilgrims had joined us and also took a peep into the chapel. Sonia, the young Taiwanese with a Youtube channel, also came up and was keenly interested when I told her that this was the halfway point. She stayed behind to vlog it. We proceeded to Sahagun with Mary, still undecided whether to walk on after Sahagun. As we entered the town, we saw Sonia catching up with us. Mary decided to wait for her, while, Tess and I proceeded to the town center. There was, what looked like a new mural to Martin Sheen's movie "The Way" just after the town entrance. We saw what we thought was the church and entered expecting to get sellos. It turned out to be the tourism office, with staff manning the reception counter and also houses the Albergue San Cluny. Standing before the counter motionless was a towering peregrino who seemed undecided about what to do. The gentleman at the counter ignored him and motioned me over. In Spanish I asked if they have sellos for peregrinos, he said yes and speaking a little English asked us where we’re from. When he saw what happened the gentleman behind me also walked up to the counter to get his sello. Tess had to use the bathroom so we stayed behind for a while. The peregrino returned my greeting with a grunt but was unsmiling as he walked out. The café right in front of the albergue was cramped and crowded when we got there. We had to share the table with the unsmiling peregrino. His name is Janis (pronounced Yanos), from Slovakia. Using Google Translate, he said he only speaks Slovak. We had a brief chat using Google Translate and exchanged Whatsapps. We even got him to say something in Slovak although he remained unsmiling all throughout. Janis bade us goodbye and we requested the camarera to call a taxi for us. It came is five minutes. It was still pouring when we left and other peregrinos were still coming in. The taxi’s wiper was swinging furiously on the drive to El Burgo Ranero. Soon we pulled into huge petrol station with what looked like an American-style diner. We thought the taxi driver was going to fill up her tank. But she stopped before the entrance to the diner and said “Aqui”! It turns out this place is also a truck stop with 24-hour petrol, diner, hotel, and grocery. Operated by the Castillo Grupo, it looks new and is relatively busy compared to the ghost towns of previous days. It was still an hour before check-in, but they gave us access to the rooms immediately. Unfortunately, there will be no wifi for three days, they say because of the strong winds. (I’m posting this using my hotspot) We had lunch at the diner and the food was not fantastic but still quite good and at 13 euros for a three-course meal I think provides value for money. We’re in our room now waiting for the worst of the weather to pass. Hopefully, it will be better by tomorrow. My takeaway for today is: The Camino can be a fierce and dangerous place weather-wise. Thanks for reading this far. Buen Camino and God bless! Bani[ATTACH type="full" alt="1000028030.jpg"]158865[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" alt="1000028042.jpg"]158866[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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