Camino de Invierno


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As you come into Rodeiro, cross the river. You emerge on the square with the Casa do Concello (town hall – stamp, but only open till 2 pm). The Camino leaves to the right of the Casa do Concello, and not up the hill through town. You will find the first arrows taking you out of town near the monument to the wheel, located in a prominent roundabout.

Rodeiro’s romanesque church dates to the 12th century.

Bar Desito highly recommended for tortilla española.


No services on the camino into Lalín. Be sure to carry plenty of water and food for a picnic lunch. Some pilgrims stay on the highway, which has a few bars and is a few kms shorter than the Camino. This highway option, though not too pleasant, is safe since you will always be on an access road. The Camino, in contrast, follows beautiful back roads through the Galician heartland; there are several towns, but no services except the occasional fountain. You are likely to meet residents taking their cows in or out of the barn.

The Road:

Leave Rodeiro on the PO-5330, the main road west, for about 2km. A mojón stands along the road across from a rabbit-processing factory, COGAL, directing you to the right onto a paved road towards Puente Limpio. It soon becomes a dirt path and meanders over a wide valley with stone quarries, trout-fishing streams, and sunken lanes that sometimes turn to mud or streams. Mojones direct you from Penebosa to Puza to Penela, notable for an enormous granite monument the farmer has dedicated to the former Spanish king Juan Carlos. From here travel on to Eirexe, where the Camino crosses a 12th century bridge. The little town lies just beneath a huge strip mine.

Next comes a long stretch on a dirt road, which goes through agricultural fields and some forests. At approximately 19km from Rodeiro, the Camino enters the hamlet of Palmaz and soon takes you onto the PO-933 into Lalín de Arriba. The arrows take you right in front of the church from the 10th century (the keeper of the keys lives close by and is very happy to open the church up if you can find her). The date 980 is carved into a stone window sill. Arrows then take you through the town of Lalín.

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Accommodation in Rodeiro