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Once you have crossed the río Ebro, you have entered Logroño proper.

Worth visiting are the Concatedral de Santa María de La Redonda (it shares the title of Cathedral with Santo Domingo, and it has a semi-hidden painting of the crucifixion by Michelangelo), the Iglesia de San Bartolomé, and the Iglesia de Santiago del Real. Of these, only the last one is located along the camino route, though all are easy to find and centrally located.

If you have grown accustomed to the usual Menu de Peregrino for dinner, Logroño will have you adjust your thinking a bit. Here they go in for the tapas style dining and they want you to join them. So head over to Calle Laurel and do just that... hopefully your albergue keeps the door open a bit late. If you go a bit overboard, a short day to Navarrete tomorrow is not at all uncommon.


Logroño seems always to be in a state of celebration. The two big festivals are for San Bernabé on the 11th of June, and San Mateo on the 21st of September. The latter of these two, held during the fall harvest, is much to do about wine.


Like a few towns before, and several ahead, Logroño owes its success to the construction of the stone bridge over the río Ebro which for a long time was the only suitable crossing point of this wide river. As such it was able to command a toll, to which pilgrims were subjected. Unfortunately very few of its medieval monuments have survived, nearly all of them destroyed. Logroño in fact, given its position both along the Ebro and on the frontier, is one of the most battled for cities in the north of Spain. In 1092 it was destroyed by El Cid.

The Road:

Leaving Logroño is not unlike departing most large cities in that it winds its way across town in a way that mixes landmarks with practicalities. There are plenty of arrows to mark the way, but most are painted low on curbs and can be difficult to see if you are a pre-dawn walker. If in doubt, make your way to the Cathedral and with it to your back head straight ahead along the Calle de Marqués de San Nicolás. You will pass straight through two roundabouts, turn left on the third.

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