- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2023
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Many thanksHi, @Guy, fingers crossed for you.
I have always walked the first day of the Salvador to Pola de Gordón, but I will confess that on my most recent Salvador I had the thought that maybe I should stop in La Robla. I’m a few years older than you, but I do think that’s a wise decision.
I haven’t stayed in the albergue in Llanos de Somerón, but it looks very nice and gets great reviews. If the owner/hospitalero tries to convince you to take the alternative Monasteriu alternative (see Ender’s most recent guide, published just this fall) I would get more clarity on what state it is in. I took it last September and it was really rough and poorly marked. Lots of climbing up over jagged rocks, nothing technical but a LOT of elevation).
Onto the Primitivo….
As between Salas and Bodenaya, it’s just a question of how you are doing when you get to Salas. I have stayed once and pushed on twice to Bodenaya. No question that Bodenaya is one of those iconic albergues, so if you haven’t been there it might be worth the extra push. It also does position you better for the next day’s walk to Borres/Samblismo if you are going to walk Hospitales.
If you do stay in Salas, I would consider the Casa Sueño, which is on the way out of town and which has always gotten great reviews. Gronze tells me the albergue is open, and if it is, the family could probably use the business. They had a real tragedy recently, with the death of the husband. I don’t know what the status of the albergue/hostal is now, but maybe others can chime in. Lots of places to stay in Salas.
I like the town of Tineo, and I have stayed there once in the luxurious albergue in the basement of the hotel in town. Nice digs, very private, a bit sterile. But very comfortable. That gets you on an easy day the next day to Borres, and you could also forge ahead to Samblismo, which is a great albergue in the middle of rural nowhere. The albergue rooms have one bunk bed each, and when I was there last fall, he was only putting one person in a bedroom (unless they were a couple or pair). It puts you right at the turnoff for Hospitales so you get a bit of a leg up on that day. I haven’t stayed in Borres, but have seen mixed reviews. Campiello used to belong to Herminia, but she know has to share the stage with Ricardo, whose albergue gets good reviews. Herminia has some private options available, though, so that might be a reason for you to prefer her place.
If you start Hospitales from either Borres or Samblismo, you will probably have the energy to continue on past Berducedo to La Mesa, with a new private albergue, with private rooms as well. I liked that option.
I also liked the decision to go from La Mesa a few kms past Grandas, where I stayed in Castro. The albergue looks nice and serves good food, but I slept in a private room in the casa rural. Not the best price-quality ratio, and the owner is a bit of an operator, but perfectly acceptable. Then you will also be able to visit the castro. The museum is small but very interesting. Unfortunately the ruins themselves were closed when I went through, but I think they may have opened or are opening soon. I love walking around those castros, even though my friends wonder why I enjoy all those piles of rocks.
If you are up to it, consider walking beyond O Cádavo to Castroverde, mainly for the reason that it gives you a very short day into Lugo, which is a place that is oh so worth a longer visit. I see you don’t have rest days available, but at least kicking it a bit more to Castroverde means you will get into Lugo with time to enjoy the walls.
It must be that you haven’t bought your plane ticket home, and what I would do is buy the later departure and then figure out a fun way to use up the extra day even if you happen to arrive earlier. One possibility would be to spend more time in Lugo, or do a detour to the Roman Santa Eulalia crypt/spa, which you can visit on your way to Ferreira with a slight detour off.
Buen camino, and as I hope my comments show, there are no bad options here!
AHA! I was wondering why your travel plans on your spreadsheet included Recife!pilgrim friend from Brazil
I booked all my days on the Salvador ahead of time — Pola de Gordón, Pajares, Pola de Lena and Oviedo. It was a covid decision, because I wanted private rooms.One quick question…on the Salvador did you book ahead?
Again thank you for very helpful info…I believe you said that you were a few years older than me…you walked the Salvador in 4 days! The math is easy 30km per day with the first day at 37km. Impressive!!!I booked all my days on the Salvador ahead of time — Pola de Gordón, Pajares, Pola de Lena and Oviedo. It was a covid decision, because I wanted private rooms.
You have five logical stages — La Robla, Poladura, Llanos, Mieres, Oviedo. (Both Pajares and Bendueño are wonderful albergues, but I do think your stages make sense, so you will miss them). I think that if you are pretty sure about these stages, you should just go ahead and reserve, at least for the first two. If the albergue in La Robla remains closed, there won’t be too many options, so it’s a good idea to reserve the pensión. The Posada de Embrujo in Poladura is a small casa rural. It’s lovely and charming, but small (order dinner, too!). Llanos de Somerón has 16 beds, which is probably way more than the current demand. But there’s no harm in sending a WhatsApp a day or two ahead. Mieres and Oviedo have lots of options.
It’s really a wonderful camino, and I hope the albergues will get back online soon.
You've provided many great tips as I begin to map out my April 2023 walk (if inflation hasn't destroyed europe by then. I'm nervous to say what the cost of albergues will be and if heating will ever be turned onHi, @Guy, fingers crossed for you.
I have always walked the first day of the Salvador to Pola de Gordón, but I will confess that on my most recent Salvador I had the thought that maybe I should stop in La Robla. I’m a few years older than you, but I do think that’s a wise decision.
I haven’t stayed in the albergue in Llanos de Somerón, but it looks very nice and gets great reviews. If the owner/hospitalero tries to convince you to take the alternative Monasteriu alternative (see Ender’s most recent guide, published just this fall) I would get more clarity on what state it is in. I took it last September and it was really rough and poorly marked. Lots of climbing up over jagged rocks, nothing technical but a LOT of elevation).
Onto the Primitivo….
As between Salas and Bodenaya, it’s just a question of how you are doing when you get to Salas. I have stayed once and pushed on twice to Bodenaya. No question that Bodenaya is one of those iconic albergues, so if you haven’t been there it might be worth the extra push. It also does position you better for the next day’s walk to Borres/Samblismo if you are going to walk Hospitales.
If you do stay in Salas, I would consider the Casa Sueño, which is on the way out of town and which has always gotten great reviews. Gronze tells me the albergue is open, and if it is, the family could probably use the business. They had a real tragedy recently, with the death of the husband. I don’t know what the status of the albergue/hostal is now, but maybe others can chime in. Lots of places to stay in Salas.
I like the town of Tineo, and I have stayed there once in the luxurious albergue in the basement of the hotel in town. Nice digs, very private, a bit sterile. But very comfortable. That gets you on an easy day the next day to Borres, and you could also forge ahead to Samblismo, which is a great albergue in the middle of rural nowhere. The albergue rooms have one bunk bed each, and when I was there last fall, he was only putting one person in a bedroom (unless they were a couple or pair). It puts you right at the turnoff for Hospitales so you get a bit of a leg up on that day. I haven’t stayed in Borres, but have seen mixed reviews. Campiello used to belong to Herminia, but she now has to share the stage with Ricardo, whose albergue gets good reviews. Herminia has some private options available, though, so that might be a reason for you to prefer her place.
If you start Hospitales from either Borres or Samblismo, you will probably have the energy to continue on past Berducedo to La Mesa, with a new private albergue, with private rooms as well. I liked that option.
I also liked the decision to go from La Mesa a few kms past Grandas, where I stayed in Castro. The albergue looks nice and serves good food, but I slept in a private room in the casa rural. Not the best price-quality ratio, and the owner is a bit of an operator, but perfectly acceptable. Then you will also be able to visit the castro. The museum is small but very interesting. Unfortunately the ruins themselves were closed when I went through, but I think they may have opened or are opening soon. I love walking around those castros, even though my friends wonder why I enjoy all those piles of rocks.
If you are up to it, consider walking beyond O Cádavo to Castroverde, mainly for the reason that it gives you a very short day into Lugo, which is a place that is oh so worth a longer visit. I see you don’t have rest days available, but at least kicking it a bit more to Castroverde means you will get into Lugo with time to enjoy the walls.
It must be that you haven’t bought your plane ticket home, and what I would do is buy the later departure and then figure out a fun way to use up the extra day even if you happen to arrive earlier. One possibility would be to spend more time in Lugo, or do a detour to the Roman Santa Eulalia crypt/spa, which you can visit on your way to Ferreira with a slight detour off.
Buen camino, and as I hope my comments show, there are no bad options here!
I’m curious how your trip went and I’d love an update. I’m planning both of these routes for June 2023Will this finally happen after 2+ years? I'm feeling the chances are getting better and better!
Planning underway for Camino San Salvador and Primitivo combination mid September 2022. Attached is a work in progress PDF outlining two options (walking days) Option 1 San Salvador - 5, Primitivo - 13 and Option 2 San Salvador - 5, Primitivo 12. An initial start has been made listing Camino San Salvador accommodations mostly from Wise Pilgrim app...Red outline for what seems to be good accommodation choices. Will do the same for Camino Primitivo...
Daily ascents/descents (meters) also shown...it's clear these Camino's will challenge these 65 year old legs! Option 1 - 2 days 1,000+ meters ascent, 5 days 1,000+ meters descent. Option 2 - 3 days and 5 days respectively.
I am interested in any accommodation suggestions you may have on planned stages. I tend to prefer (not exclusively) private rooms...sometimes these are available within a mixed dorm/private room setup which is great to meet other pilgrims.
Any suggestions on planned walking days also welcome!
Here is the PDF.
Merci
Guy
I'm planning both these routes for June 2023, too (after the Camino de Madrid). Maybe we'll run into each other, depending on when in June you'll be walking.I’m curious how your trip went and I’d love an update. I’m planning both of these routes for June 2023
My plans are still evolving. I hope to walk the Vasco from Irún to the Francés (not sure which town option) then either walk or bus to Leon and pick up the San Salvador there.I'm planning both these routes for June 2023, too (after the Camino de Madrid). Maybe we'll run into each other, depending on when in June you'll be walking.
Hi...the update to my Camino Primitivo and San Salvador is simply this...incredible walking...highly recommend both of these routes without question. They were my 7th and 8th Camino routes and they rank up there in terms of enjoyment!I’m curious how your trip went and I’d love an update. I’m planning both of these routes for June 2023
We walked the Vasco down to Santo Domingo in 2017. Found the Frances delivered a tad of culture shock but rode it out to Leon. Booking ahead occasionally was no different to calling ahead on the Vasco. Nonetheless the Salvador and Primitivo provided the space and tranquility we were looking for. Camino Verde from Lugo and the “back” route down to O Pedrouzo kept the whole trip sweetMy plans are still evolving. I hope to walk the Vasco from Irún to the Francés (not sure which town option) then either walk or bus to Leon and pick up the San Salvador there.
Hi Guy, Loved your blog, I can relate to your sense of humour ;-). Did you update your pdf document after you completed your Caminos? I'm planning to do the Primitivo in May and want to spend 2 days in Lugo. Looking for suggestions for comfortable accommodations for 2 couples. I found an apt on 20 Rúa das Nóreas, 27001 in Lugo and I'm wondering how far off the path we will be??Will this finally happen after 2+ years? I'm feeling the chances are getting better and better!
Planning underway for Camino San Salvador and Primitivo combination mid September 2022. Attached is a work in progress PDF outlining two options (walking days) Option 1 San Salvador - 5, Primitivo - 13 and Option 2 San Salvador - 5, Primitivo 12. An initial start has been made listing Camino San Salvador accommodations mostly from Wise Pilgrim app...Red outline for what seems to be good accommodation choices. Will do the same for Camino Primitivo...
Daily ascents/descents (meters) also shown...it's clear these Camino's will challenge these 65 year old legs! Option 1 - 2 days 1,000+ meters ascent, 5 days 1,000+ meters descent. Option 2 - 3 days and 5 days respectively.
I am interested in any accommodation suggestions you may have on planned stages. I tend to prefer (not exclusively) private rooms...sometimes these are available within a mixed dorm/private room setup which is great to meet other pilgrims.
Any suggestions on planned walking days also welcome!
Here is the PDF.
Merci
Guy
That is the same street the albergue is on, so you will be inside the walls and virtually on the camino. If you are looking for a good restaurant, I can recommend Paprica, which is right across the street from the albergue. A bit upscale, but not pretentious. I thought the food was very good.apt on 20 Rúa das Nóreas,
Suzanne what was the weather like in May?Thank you for this. I will be doing the these two routes in May, so I can give you feedback before Sept.
For the most part weather was great. Had 2 days of torrential downpour which were my funnest days. I have a $5 poncho which mostly keeps me dry.Suzanne what was the weather like in May?
Hello Suzanne! I will walk the Primitivo in May 2023 and would love to hear about your walk. This will be my first Camino so I have opted to book accommodations in advance. On Jan 11 and 17th I tried to contact El Tendejon in Escamplero thru their contact form. I still haven't had a reply and this is making me nervous....first timer nervousThank you for this. I will be doing the these two routes in May, so I can give you feedback before Sept.
Hello Suzanne! Did you complete the Primitivo last May?Thank you for this. I will be doing the these two routes in May, so I can give you feedback before Sept.
Dear Lyn,Hello Suzanne! Did you complete the Primitivo last May?
I will walk the Primitivo in May 2023 and would love to hear about your walk. This will be my first Camino so I have opted to book accommodations in advance. On Jan 11 and 17th I tried to contact El Tendejon in Escamplero thru their contact form. I still haven't had a reply and this is making me nervous....first timer nervous.
I'm having the same issue with Areceli in Berducedo.
Do you have any experience in either location? I'm traveling with my husband and another couple and we are trying to get private rooms. (In our late 60's and light sleepers)
Thanks in advance
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