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They speak 'Spanish' as well, but conversations are dotted with Catalan words too, I suspect.
Not really. When they speak Castilian, they speak Castilian and when they speak Catalan, they speak Catalan. Sometimes some people that aren't too used to speak in Castilian may say inadvertently a word or two in Catalan when speaking in Castilian but that's not a problem for understanding. In fact, if you put a I didn't understand face, they'll (usually) realize another word is used in Castilian and will try to recall which one is.
I have just returned from a wonderful 2 weeks of walking through the Catalan countryside on the Cami St. Jaume from Llançà in the Costa Brava, to Montserrat. I had a marvellous time. The scenery was great, walking was good, the wild flowers were amazing whilst the bird song just bubbled away in the background the entire time. I have never seen so many superb Romanesque monuments before. There was no litter on the trail, no overcrowding, no rush for beds and no aggro about sharing a path on the only day when I came across lots of cyclists.
Inspiration for the trip was sparked by a post by peregrino2ooo - Laurie - who wrote about the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes, sometime last autumn. She then wrote up her Cami St. Jaume, which persuaded me that there was nothing to prevent me from doing the trip myself, on my own. So a very big THANK YOU to Laurie for her imput. It is much appreciated.
Actually, as I walked the route that Laurie took, I became very aware that she must be superwoman. Not only did she walk big distances, but she then spent time visiting museums and churches. The energy she has is incredible.
Laurie's post provides a very good account of the route, and links to her wikiloc trail and the official website were all I needed to get going. However, I want to add a little to the knowledge of the route, to encourage others to walk. You see, despite all its wonderful plus points, the route lacks one thing - pilgrims. Hopefully over the next few days I add a few updates, observations and suggestions that will help others to walk this lovely route.
I have just returned from a wonderful 2 weeks of walking through the Catalan countryside on the Cami St. Jaume from Llançà in the Costa Brava, to Montserrat. I had a marvellous time. The scenery was great, walking was good, the wild flowers were amazing whilst the bird song just bubbled away in the background the entire time. I have never seen so many superb Romanesque monuments before. There was no litter on the trail, no overcrowding, no rush for beds and no aggro about sharing a path on the only day when I came across lots of cyclists.
Inspiration for the trip was sparked by a post by peregrino2ooo - Laurie - who wrote about the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes, sometime last autumn. She then wrote up her Cami St. Jaume, which persuaded me that there was nothing to prevent me from doing the trip myself, on my own. So a very big THANK YOU to Laurie for her imput. It is much appreciated.
Actually, as I walked the route that Laurie took, I became very aware that she must be superwoman. Not only did she walk big distances, but she then spent time visiting museums and churches. The energy she has is incredible.
Laurie's post provides a very good account of the route, and links to her wikiloc trail and the official website were all I needed to get going. However, I want to add a little to the knowledge of the route, to encourage others to walk. You see, despite all its wonderful plus points, the route lacks one thing - pilgrims. Hopefully over the next few days I add a few updates, observations and suggestions that will help others to walk this lovely route.
Hi,Accommodation.
As Laurie's notes mention, this is not a cheap camino.
There are only 2 pilgrim albergues, from what I can make out - one at Bonmati just west of Girona, and the one at Montserrat. I was charged 6 euros at Montserrat, and much to my surprise after Laurie's comment, the dorms are no longer single sex, neither are the washrooms. They do provide blankets but not pillows.
There are quite a few hostels along the route at:
Llançà: Hostal Costa Brava (booking.com)
Figueres: Hostal Figueres tel + 34 630 68 05 75 (hostelworld.com)
Girona: Room in Girona (hostelworld.com)
Sant Esteve d'en Bas: Allberg de la Vall d'en Bas (albergvallbas.cat)
Vic:
- Seminari Vic Allotjaments (single bed or room via hostelworld.com)
- Alberg Canonge Collel (single bed via xanascat.cat, tel +34 938 89 49 38), (whole rooms via booking.com)
Manressa: via xanascat.cat
I tried to stay at Sant Esteve on a Sunday night. The website was really slow, but I managed to book eventually, only to receive an email a few days later to say that they were closed on the Sunday night, could I do Monday instead? Shame as it looked like a nice hostel.
Alberg Cononge Collel and Manressa are both youth hostels. The xanscat website is dreadfully slow and unresponsive at times.
None of these places is 'cheap' - 15 euros min, even 20 euros, but still less expensive than the alternatives. I stayed at Hostal Figueres and it was lovely and clean, good sturdy beds, nice kitchen, washing facilities, sheets and duvet provided, towel available to rent.
The alternative is a hostal, fonda or hotel. Away from the cities, in small towns and villages, I paid about 25 euros for a single room, sometimes with a bathroom, sometimes without. In mid to late May, the places were always nearly empty. I was met with almost uniform kindness and consideration. Only 1 place, which was slightly off route, was offhand and indifferent, and my suspicion is that the staff were not local.
For what it's worth, I stayed at:
Llançà: Pensio Restaurant Llançà (where Laurie stayed) 23 euros. I would have stayed at the hostel but was worried about arriving too late for their check in time.
Figueres: Hostelfigueres 18 euros via hostelworld
Bascara: Pension Fluvia 25 euros without bath, +34 972 56 00 14. The email address on the website does not work.
Girona: Ibis Budget (!!!!) 35 euros well in advance
Amer: Fonda Giralt 25 euros with bath. +34 972 43 00 45. Nice evening meal.
Les Presses (just north of Sant Esteve) 30 euros
L'Esquirol: Hostal Collsacabra. 20 euros with bath
Vic: Alberg Canonge Collel, 29 euros for a very large room with bath, with 3 beds. Sheets but no towels.
Santa Maria d'Olo: Hotel Santa Maria 25 euros
Navarcles: Hostal Muntane, 25 euros, tel +34 938 31 04 40
Sant Vincenc de Castellet: Hostal Ca La Irene, 25 euros
For late May, there was absolutely no need to have booked in advance.
However, prices in Girona and Vic do seem to rise the nearer it gets to the stay.
If I walked again, I would not prebook, but would definitely have done my homework to know what my options were. There is definitely not accommodation in every village that you walk through.
Hi,
I so appreciate all the information.
Throwing a quick update.
Llanca alberge €24
Figures alberge €24
Bascara ...full on Thursday (start of Easter fiesta)..so gave up and first time on a Camino, took a bus to Girona. Telephoned all hostels, Fonda's, and all penisons in the catalyuna book. All full. With help a nice Hondorus lady, who took me under her wing, ended up in Salt, cheapest accommodation for Holy Thursday was €36, and although old couple who owned the hotel were super cute and friendly, unfortunately one of beds was super dirty, the room was freezing and normal smelliness of an old building. Won't name the place, as I was delighted to be not taking a bus back to Figueres.
Friday was Good Friday, and via Verde was jam packed with Bici, Bici, Bici. Again I telephoned every single place in Sant Esteve, and all FULL. The alberge were friendly and I called in today to thank the lady for trying to help.
I then attempted Sant Felliu, and on the third call, the KIND and super nice and well travelled lady of Fonda a REC, said she wasn't really there, but would be back late if that ok, and I got a Fab nights sleep there for €20. I would highly recommend.
Walked towards L' Esquirol today, but the route on the brilliant GPS track from Laurie, seems to be altered to a Road version ... I went a km or 2 downhill and then turned back.. and followed the GPS route... No yellow arrows, all have been removed and the way was difficult to find without the GPS. I also have the ordinance survey maps of area downloaded and then really helped, give me confidence to read the route.
As a result, I was alot later than I expected...and when I arrived at the junction with the Bar at the main road I had a coffee.. and long story, they helped me find a place in a bar called Roira Snack Bar . Again €36, and I was warned it would be freezing as at top of apartment and no heating. After thinking on this.. its cold and raining, I again thought to give in and just go to VIC by the bus passing in 2 hours.
..but VIC is super expensive for tonight also, and I feel lack of accommodation is turning this into a Camino by autobus than a Camino by foot
The lovely people at this coffee offered alternative.. that they were going to Rota when service finished and there is a hostal there for €30. I accepted, as sleeping in VIC tonight or tomorrow for under €50 is not easy to find. I'm now in Rota, and the room is very simple, but sheets clean and the radiator is on at a low temperature. The next few days are also problematic with Santa Maria d'olo full. It's a day by day planning at the moment... But without the kindness of people, I would have had alot of difficulty. As Easter will finish by Sunday, but georges day is on Tuesday... I think 2019 May is Full, Full, Full.
Well, just because reading others accounts has been so useful... I'm going to write what I ended up doing. So today is Easter Sunday.. quiet around VIC early in morning, when I arrived in.. I headed to tourist office. The man was in strange form ...helpful to others but I would describe the tourist man in office in VIC as arrogant. I may have been sensitive today but ended up in tears with his approach. L'estany he told me to check had accommodation in monastery. Not so . Monastery directs you to rural accommodation and that is seriously expensive. I went to a lovely cafe, and tried to get my head together. Santa Maria had accommodation but that was a further 27km and it was now after 12. I tried to see if it was possible to take a bus 10km out. It was ...but not until Monday morning. I tried to get a bus to Manresa in the end, but that would take 5 hrs... (Sunday and limited service). The lovely people in cafe across from a church on the way in, offered to drive me even though it was 40min out of their way, once they closed the cafe. (Photo below)My experience at the farm gate was exactly the same as yours. There was one of those posts just up the road - about 4 or 5 metres - but nothing on the farm gate. That was where I was so glad to have had Laurie's wikiloc trail. Felt odd walking through the farm yard, but the sign on the far gate was reassuring.
I went wrong somewhere further on as well - took the sign for a chapel that had the camino logo on it, but it was a diversion not the main track. Went at least a km downhill (down steep hill!) before I realised I was wrong, but rather than retrace my steps, I could see from the map that I could get out another way.
I walked in May, I think, and had booked accommodation in advance, which was totally unnecessary as most places were almost empty. So different to Easter week, obviously.
The via verde is indeed a cyclists heaven. I was on it on a Sunday, but the traffic was quite low thankfully, otherwise it would have been no fun.
Lessons to pass on:
Don't walk in Easter week unless you book well in advance.
Have wikilocs for the stretch to L'Esquirol
Don't walk the via verde at the weekend or a public holiday unless you lose being overtaken by cyclists all the time.
Walk in May/June when the weather is kinder and the flowers are fantastic.
Hope the rest of your walk is easier.
oh 100% - GPS is a gamechanger. I can use a compass/paper maps etc in Ireland, but just look up Wikiloc and hit follow. It will allow you to relax. Remember as well, that 'it will work out', but you do need to ask. I'm brutal at making decisions ahead of time, so my planning problems were my own fault. Sit down and have a nice Spanish coffee and book a few days...I cannot remember where - but I had to later get a lift to another town and got a cheap 'available' place to stay (€20), and there were a few unusual accommodation spots along the way. The Monastery at the end will make it worth it. (and Manressa as well)Oh I am so nervous about tomorrow after reading all your posts. I am really unfamiliar with GPS. Should I try?
Thank you for your encouragement. It's the Sant Esteve to L'Esquirol I am tackling tomorrow and mentions of the Wikiloc trail not being there is my worryoh 100% - GPS is a gamechanger. I can use a compass/paper maps etc in Ireland, but just look up Wikiloc and hit follow. It will allow you to relax. Remember as well, that 'it will work out', but you do need to ask. I'm brutal at making decisions ahead of time, so my planning problems were my own fault. Sit down and have a nice Spanish coffee and book a few days...I cannot remember where - but I had to later get a lift to another town and got a cheap 'available' place to stay (€20), and there were a few unusual accommodation spots along the way. The Monastery at the end will make it worth it. (and Manressa as well)
There is another possible option, Tamsin. Two days between Sant Esteve and L'Esquirol via Rupit. Less intensity of climbing.Thank you for your encouragement. It's the Sant Esteve to L'Esquirol I am tackling tomorrow and mentions of the Wikiloc trail not being there is my worry
I would like to walk Sant Esteve to L'Esquirol over two days, via Rupit. This is much less of a grade but slightly longer overall although divided into two days instead of one. Map to follow tomorrow.
Okay, here is my map of routes from Sant Esteve to Rupit. It has two overlays, @peregrina2000 truncated route from Sant Feliu to L'Esquirol (Green colour) and the Catalonia Friends of the Camino stage from Sant Esteve to L'Esquirol (Red colour). I suspect that Laurie's map came about by following the Catalonian Friends because they are very similar until Laurie's got truncated (perhaps by losing battery power).
I have drawn two routes, the first is a full route from Sant Esteve to Rupit coloured in Purple. This route starts at the Albergue in Sant Esteve and then initially follows the other two routes until those two routes start to climb. At that point the purple route goes off to join the road (C-153). It follows C-153 until close to Rupit and then heads off-road again so that people get to see the countryside. This route is the least steep ascent.
I then followed this route along the road parts using G Maps street view and although it starts well with a nice berm to walk along so that we would be off the sealed road itself, as soon as it starts climbing and turning we lose the berm and although the road probably isn't that busy I think that it starts to get a bit dangerous on some of the corners if we were to meet traffic.
With this in mind, I went back and drew an alternate (partial) route (Blue) that starts off from @peregrina2000 's map before it climbs but continues off road and around the highest hills so that it is not as steep as Laurie's/Friends of Camino but is a little bit steeper than the road route. The other nice thing about this Blue route is that I was able to route it past a café/bar that sits alone out in the hills, presumably waiting for hikers to come past. This route is probably now my preferred route. It is less steep than the recommended route, it goes to Rupit rather than L'Esquirol, is off-road, has a lunch stop and is doable in a Doug day. It is about 17-18klms long.
Please note that the four pictures underneath the map show the relative incline/decline for each track. They are not quite comparable because @peregrina2000 's track is much longer and the Blue route starts at the steep part. This makes the Blue route look steeper than it is on its own. You might need to take my word for it being less steep.
Picture below:
We're can stay at Fonda Marsal http://www.fondamarsal.cat/habitacions.
In the meantime, I have re-drawn the alternates around Sant Esteves a bit better and added on the route that you suggested from Rupit to L'Esquirol (Green colour, 13klms), see map below. When I re-drew the Blue route properly, from Sant Esteve to Rupit I was able to get a better distance, it is just over 16klms (16.2). I can make this map available if anyone wants it.
This is a very kind gesture. I have to arrive in L'Esquirol as someone has offered me a sofa, so I will take a route there. I appreciate all your work more than I can say. Thank you all for helping me.There is another possible option, Tamsin. Two days between Sant Esteve and L'Esquirol via Rupit. Less intensity of climbing.
Here's where to start, if you are interested:
After several days of relative flat, the camino leaves the lovely d'en Bas valley to go up a cliff. I got to els Hostalets d'en Bas at around 8.30 and was delighted to find a bar open for breakfast, and surprised to find it full of middle aged men, most of whom were drinking red wine with their tostadas. I didn't join them as there is around 800m of ascent to do, 500m of it in just 2km. Which was hard work, but very lovely as well. Some of the trees were already in their autumn glory, and of the rest, mostly "leaves look pale, dreading the winter's near". Nearing the high ground the reward for the hard work (scrambling in places where it was too steep or slippery to walk) was spectacular views down over the valley, and back towards the snowy Pyrenees, looking very pretty. The higher ground was a mixture of pasture with lazy cows and their musical bells, and "forests ancient as the hills, enfolding sunny spots of greenery". Just lovely.
Totally agree with you about this, @Felice. That was a beautiful walk. I also remember a segment that walked along a valley with a view of a fairly serious escarpment (at least I think that’s the word!).Thanks for reminding me - the day from Sant Esteve where I spent a night, to L'Esquirol, was probably my best day of the walk. The way up from L'hostelets d'enBas was absolutely lovely, then the pastures and views above were glorious.
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