Oh Scruffy, I had the same disappointment on the Vezelay route last year, regarding the gastronomic paradise where only the kebab and pizza survive. I decided it was my Duty, if not the Great Purpose of my Camino, to eat a full meal with wine, bottled water, coffee and cognac whenever I happened upon a traditional restaurant that was open. Lunchtime is more likely, and I factored in some slow afternoons to accommodate this. It is a very sad time in France due to the suffering economy, but trust me - the French still adore their food. But now you are more likely to eat well in someone's home, eg a chambre d'hote with table d'hote. I love your description of the gite where they presented you with a basket of goodies - how I wish I'd found that one! I'm glad that at least your soul is being fed with all the Romanesque wonders, and the wine