Hi Luka, as AJ says I walked the route that I think you refer to as the "real" route - and used the bright yellow guide from the Amis in Vezelay (although I actually bought the version with the English Introduction from the CSJ). The time I walked was from early July till approx mid August, and it wasn't until I got to just before Limoges that I met a few other pilgrims. Indeed until I got to St Palais I probably only came across a half a dozen in total, and only shared accomodation on about eight nights. Yet, despite that, I didn't feel lonely partly because the locals were so friendly. I must admit that this was the first time that I had spent so long on a pilgrimage totally on my own. That said, I believe that had I left in mid August I may have met many more pilgrims, as, for some reason, most pilgrims in France seem to avoid the mid summer time. Cheers, Janet