LIVE from the Camino Live from the Camino Mozarabe

[Adrian Harding 65]

Good morning and Happy Easter live from the Camino Mozarabe. I’m currently towards the end of my second week of walking from Almeria, and I’m now halfway between Granada and Cordoba. The conditions over the past two weeks have been almost perfect for walking, beautiful sunny skies, but not yet so hot as to make the task uncomfortable. For any of you considering doing this walk, it is worth knowing that the Camino Mozarabe is much more suitable for more adventurous Peregrinos and Perigrinas, as it involves walking dry riverbeds in the early stages, and quite a lot of hillclimbing. But the payback for the extra effort is undoubtedly the astounding panoramas with breathtaking vistas extending endlessly into the far distance. Views of the Sierra Nevada, Sierra Elvira and the Andalusian Plain are sublime. Accommodation so far has been absolutely amazing, with a network of donativo Albergues, very affordable Casa Rural and private Pensions serving every need. The local association Jacobean has been invaluable in providing all the guidance and up-to-date advice needed to make each stage enjoyable. In Semana Santa, the accommodation fills up quickly, and I was advised to book rooms at least one week ahead, rather than the normal one day ahead. This advice has worked perfectly for me, as I have not experienced any of the problems of my fellow pilgrims who left it a bit too late. I’d be happy to answer any questions from anyone on the forum wanting to benefit from my honest personal experience of the Camino Mozarabe.
I hope to post some later updates, but in the meantime, I’ll let the photos do the talking.

 

[Philtration]

Thanks so much for posting! I'm debating this camino for 2024. Please update us on your progress whenever you have time.

 

[RussB]

Good morning and Happy Easter live from the Camino Mozarabe. I’m currently towards the end of my second week of walking from Almeria, and I’m now halfway between Granada and Cordoba. The conditions over the past two weeks have been almost perfect for walking, beautiful sunny skies, but not yet so hot as to make the task uncomfortable. For any of you considering doing this walk, it is worth knowing that the Camino Mozarabe is much more suitable for more adventurous Peregrinos and Perigrinas, as it involves walking dry riverbeds in the early stages, and quite a lot of hillclimbing. But the payback for the extra effort is undoubtedly the astounding panoramas with breathtaking vistas extending endlessly into the far distance. Views of the Sierra Nevada, Sierra Elvira and the Andalusian Plain are sublime. Accommodation so far has been absolutely amazing, with a network of donativo Albergues, very affordable Casa Rural and private Pensions serving every need. The local association Jacobean has been invaluable in providing all the guidance and up-to-date advice needed to make each stage enjoyable. In Semana Santa, the accommodation fills up quickly, and I was advised to book rooms at least one week ahead, rather than the normal one day ahead. This advice has worked perfectly for me, as I have not experienced any of the problems of my fellow pilgrims who left it a bit too late. I’d be happy to answer any questions from anyone on the forum wanting to benefit from my honest personal experience of the Camino Mozarabe.
I hope to post some later updates, but in the meantime, I’ll let the photos do the talking.

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Thanks for posting , I’m starting 2nd May, getting close now.

Buen Camino

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

Thanks for posting , I’m starting 2nd May, getting close now.

Buen Camino

I have a tip for you: the dry river beds between Almeria and Abla aren’t dry, and several of us have had difficulty in crossing and re-crossing the streams. The life changer for me was a pair of beach shoes which I brought with me as casual wear in the Albergues. They let the water in and out, but protect the soles of your feet from the stones in the stream. I certainly didn’t bring them for this purpose, but, frankly, I don’t know what I would have done without them.

 

[RussB]

I have a tip for you: the dry river beds between Almeria and Abla aren’t dry, and several of us have had difficulty in crossing and re-crossing the streams. The life changer for me was a pair of beach shoes which I brought with me as casual wear in the Albergues. They let the water in and out, but protect the soles of your feet from the stones in the stream. I certainly didn’t bring them for this purpose, but, frankly, I don’t know what I would have done without them.View attachment 122833View attachment 122834

Thanks for the info I’ll dig some out, Buen Camino

 

[Lana]

Good morning and Happy Easter live from the Camino Mozarabe. I’m currently towards the end of my second week of walking from Almeria, and I’m now halfway between Granada and Cordoba. The conditions over the past two weeks have been almost perfect for walking, beautiful sunny skies, but not yet so hot as to make the task uncomfortable. For any of you considering doing this walk, it is worth knowing that the Camino Mozarabe is much more suitable for more adventurous Peregrinos and Perigrinas, as it involves walking dry riverbeds in the early stages, and quite a lot of hillclimbing. But the payback for the extra effort is undoubtedly the astounding panoramas with breathtaking vistas extending endlessly into the far distance. Views of the Sierra Nevada, Sierra Elvira and the Andalusian Plain are sublime. Accommodation so far has been absolutely amazing, with a network of donativo Albergues, very affordable Casa Rural and private Pensions serving every need. The local association Jacobean has been invaluable in providing all the guidance and up-to-date advice needed to make each stage enjoyable. In Semana Santa, the accommodation fills up quickly, and I was advised to book rooms at least one week ahead, rather than the normal one day ahead. This advice has worked perfectly for me, as I have not experienced any of the problems of my fellow pilgrims who left it a bit too late. I’d be happy to answer any questions from anyone on the forum wanting to benefit from my honest personal experience of the Camino Mozarabe.
I hope to post some later updates, but in the meantime, I’ll let the photos do the talking.

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Hi, thanks for the update, we start from Granada in 4 days. Could you provide a contact for the Jacobean association you mention? that’s assuming it’s not the one based in Almeria. I contacted them and they basically said they would only be involved up to Granada, not past. So glad to hear your positive report! Thanks!

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

Hi, thanks for the update, we start from Granada in 4 days. Could you provide a contact for the Jacobean association you mention? that’s assuming it’s not the one based in Almeria. I contacted them and they basically said they would only be involved up to Granada, not past. So glad to hear your positive report! Thanks!

Hi Lana!
The association is the same one you have mentioned. You are right that they are only responsible up to Granada, but that was sufficient for me. I assume that you have the April Albergue guide from the association with all the contact details of the Albergues and Hostals for the full length of the Mozarabe? I’ve used this list by simply on calling ahead one or two days in advance.
Now that Semana Santa is out of the way, I hope that booking accommodation will become easier. I’m al Alcaudete now, and I’ve had no trouble (so far). If you are fast walkers, you may well catch me up.

Buen Camino!
Adrian

 

[Lana]

Hi Lana!
The association is the same one you have mentioned. You are right that they are only responsible up to Granada, but that was sufficient for me. I assume that you have the April Albergue guide from the association with all the contact details of the Albergues and Hostals for the full length of the Mozarabe? I’ve used this list by simply on calling ahead one or two days in advance.
Now that Semana Santa is out of the way, I hope that booking accommodation will become easier. I’m al Alcaudete now, and I’ve had no trouble (so far). If you are fast walkers, you may well catch me up.

Buen Camino!
Adrian

Ok thanks very much, Adrian, we do have that info, and Gronze, so it should be fine. We delayed our start until after SSanta to minimize potential issues, glad to hear you’ve managed well so far. As for our walking speed it’s been a pretty leisurely 2 week lead-up to when we actually start so we’ll see!
Buen Camino!
Lana

 

[peregrina2000]

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The second picture in your first post takes my breath away. It’s a perfect encapsulation of the Mozárabe for me — exposed rock on the hills, little villages below, olive groves dotting the landscape, and mountains in the back. All that’s missing is a castle.

Do you have an exact location, @Adrian Harding 65?

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

The second picture in your first post takes my breath away. It’s a perfect encapsulation of the Mozárabe for me — exposed rock on the hills, little villages below, olive groves dotting the landscape, and mountains in the back. All that’s missing is a castle.

Do you have an exact location, @Adrian Harding 65?

Yes, the village below is Olivares. This picture was taken on the lung-bursting climb into Moclin. If you have time, check my Facebook page for a thousand lovely pictures. I’m not taking credit for the loveliness, the countryside gets that credit.

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

Yes, the village below is Olivares. This picture was taken on the lung-bursting climb into Moclin. If you have time, check my Facebook page for a thousand lovely pictures. I’m not taking credit for the loveliness, the countryside gets that credit.

You mentioned a missing castle….here it is, the castle of Moclin.

 

[peregrina2000]

You mentioned a missing castle….here it is, the castle of Moclin.

Yes, I had the same thought — I was lucky to arrive in Moclín in time to get into the castle. Where did you stay in Moclín? I was in a casa rural a little walk up from the bar, but I am not sure if it’s still listed on Gronze, based on the pictures I see.

So. many great castles on this route, I climbed around them all! Medellín is another one of my favorites, notwithstanding the statue of Hernán Cortés in the square in town. When one of the conquistadores (now called “Descubridores” in Spain) is singled out as being ruthless, you know you are talking about someone with a lot of bloodlust.

Where are you now, @Adrian Harding 65?

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

Yes, I had the same thought — I was lucky to arrive in Moclín in time to get into the castle. Where did you stay in Moclín? I was in a casa rural a little walk up from the bar, but I am not sure if it’s still listed on Gronze, based on the pictures I see.

So. many great castles on this route, I climbed around them all! Medellín is another one of my favorites, notwithstanding the statue of Hernán Cortés in the square in town. When one of the conquistadores (now called “Descubridores” in Spain) is singled out as being ruthless, you know you are talking about someone with a lot of bloodlust.

Where are you now, @Adrian Harding 65?

I stayed in Moclin in Casa Higueral, which you will see covered extensively in my post a couple of days ago. It had a terrace and a swimming pool, and all for $20. The height of rustic luxury for pennies. I’m now in Baena having watched (and heard!) the Easter processions with all the constant drumming. Amazing. I’m now enjoying a beer in the sunshine. Off to Castro del Rio tomorrow.

 

[Lana]

Hi Adrian, glad to hear there's some sunshine and beer in all this too! We have booked the Casa Higueral as well 4 nights hence, so it was nice to hear your + report. We couldn’t find a place in Pinos Puente so will do a bit of backtracking/bussing and stay in Atarfe for our first night walking out of Granada.
On your trail!
Lana

 

[Former member 99290]

Spectacular. Love the Mozarabe Enjoy.

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

Hi Adrian, glad to hear there's some sunshine and beer in all this too! We have booked the Casa Higueral as well 4 nights hence, so it was nice to hear your + report. We couldn’t find a place in Pinos Puente so will do a bit of backtracking/bussing and stay in Atarfe for our first night walking out of Granada.
On your trail!
Lana

In Pinos Puente, book yourselves into the Hotel Restaurant Montserrat. Absolutely FANTASTIC and only €20 at the Pilgrim rate. It really is very, very special. Forget about Atarfe, cancel all the bookings you have there, and go to the Montserrat. If you don’t like it, I’ll pay your bill for you.

 

[Lana]

We tried to reserve there first but they had no room. Definitely would have preferred no to backtrack! But thanks!

 

[pinkwadingbird]

Hi Adrian - in an earlier post you mentioned difficulty crossing and recrossing (not) dry riverbeds. If we have appropriate footwear what else makes the crossings difficult? I'll be starting in Almería on Thursday and would like to be as prepared as possible. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

[Lana]

Adrian you rock! You spurred us on to phoning the Montserrat instead of believing the booking site, and were able to get a room. Getting reminded of lessons learned on previous caminos!

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

Hi Adrian - in an earlier post you mentioned difficulty crossing and recrossing (not) dry riverbeds. If we have appropriate footwear what else makes the crossings difficult? I'll be starting in Almería on Thursday and would like to be as prepared as possible. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Everyone I spoke to just found it tiring, as did I. Walking, zig-zagging, on soft wet riverbeds is far more exhausting than walking on dry dirt tracks. There’s nothing you can do about it, it just takes more effort and time. Your walking boots or trail runners are not suitable for this task, as they will be soaked and give you blisters. That’s why I’m recommending shoes that are made for wet conditions but are firm enough to protect your feet. I’ve seen YouTube films showing people doing it in bare feet or flip-flops, but I can’t recommend either of these. Once you have got to Abla, the problem disappears. Don’t worry, though, it will still be a very enjoyable Camino. I love the fact that you are called “pink wading bird”. Maybe you are ideally suited to the challenge!

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

Adrian you rock! You spurred us on to phoning the Montserrat instead of believing the booking site, and were able to get a room. Getting reminded of lessons learned on previous caminos!

You won’t regret it. But I’m now withdrawing my offer to pay your bill.

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

You won’t regret it. But I’m now withdrawing my offer to pay your bill.View attachment 122982View attachment 122983View attachment 122984

One further thought is to take care in finding the route out of Pinos Puente. You walk for about 2km on the highway (or on a minor road parallel to it, it makes no difference) and then take a right turn to follow a river to Bucor and Olivares. I got that right turn wrong and ended up on the wrong side of the river, walking through wet crops and ending up with wet shoes and socks - the great enemies of Camino walkers. There was a path with two xx showing not to take that, but I couldn’t find the yellow arrow showing which way I should have gone. Obviously, I got it wrong, so I don’t have a solution for you, but please try to avoid making the same mistake that I did. So, take special care choosing the right turn out of the built-up area of Pinos Puente.

 

[Lana]

Will do, thanks for the heads up.

 

[pinkwadingbird]

Everyone I spoke to just found it tiring, as did I. Walking, zig-zagging, on soft wet riverbeds is far more exhausting than walking on dry dirt tracks. There’s nothing you can do about it, it just takes more effort and time. Your walking boots or trail runners are not suitable for this task, as they will be soaked and give you blisters. That’s why I’m recommending shoes that are made for wet conditions but are firm enough to protect your feet. I’ve seen YouTube films showing people doing it in bare feet or flip-flops, but I can’t recommend either of these. Once you have got to Abla, the problem disappears. Don’t worry, though, it will still be a very enjoyable Camino. I love the fact that you are called “pink wading bird”. Maybe you are ideally suited to the challenge!

Thanks for your reply. Didn't even think about my Camino name relative to river walking until you pointed it out. Looking forward to the adventure however it unfolds.

 

[Simon Shum]

Hi Adrian, this is Doris and Simon, we shared some wonderful Camino time on the Mozarabe and enjoy following your “ live”.

I hope the dry river bed might be drier now! We spent 8 hours on a 19 km stretch spending the time trying to find spots with stepping stones to jump over the little streams, Your wet shoe is definitely an asset there!
Buen Camino!

 

[C clearly]

I hope the dry river bed might be drier now! We spent 8 hours on a 19 km stretch spending the time trying to find spots with stepping stones to jump over the little streams, Your wet shoe is definitely an asset there!
Buen Camino!

In mid-April 2018, it was hard to imagine that there was ever water in that river!

 

[Yooper B]

Good morning and Happy Easter live from the Camino Mozarabe. I’m currently towards the end of my second week of walking from Almeria, and I’m now halfway between Granada and Cordoba. The conditions over the past two weeks have been almost perfect for walking, beautiful sunny skies, but not yet so hot as to make the task uncomfortable. For any of you considering doing this walk, it is worth knowing that the Camino Mozarabe is much more suitable for more adventurous Peregrinos and Perigrinas, as it involves walking dry riverbeds in the early stages, and quite a lot of hillclimbing. But the payback for the extra effort is undoubtedly the astounding panoramas with breathtaking vistas extending endlessly into the far distance. Views of the Sierra Nevada, Sierra Elvira and the Andalusian Plain are sublime. Accommodation so far has been absolutely amazing, with a network of donativo Albergues, very affordable Casa Rural and private Pensions serving every need. The local association Jacobean has been invaluable in providing all the guidance and up-to-date advice needed to make each stage enjoyable. In Semana Santa, the accommodation fills up quickly, and I was advised to book rooms at least one week ahead, rather than the normal one day ahead. This advice has worked perfectly for me, as I have not experienced any of the problems of my fellow pilgrims who left it a bit too late. I’d be happy to answer any questions from anyone on the forum wanting to benefit from my honest personal experience of the Camino Mozarabe.
I hope to post some later updates, but in the meantime, I’ll let the photos do the talking.

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Hello,
My husband and I walked the Camino Mozarabe from Granada to Merida a few years ago and plan to walk from Almeria to Granada next April leaving around the 1st. Your post was very helpful as it matches your time frame. Buen Camino!

 

[Lana]

Almost live from the Camino… we are in Córdoba after walking from Granada. We fully expected to do a lot more navigating on this trail. But when we started off it was apparent that the yellow arrows were in good supply. That is until the Alcala La Real to Alcaudete stretch, about a third of the way on, we ended up having to walk down a section of the N432a highway without guardrails, no shoulder, and traffic. We thought we had obeyed an arrow but ? Also some conflicting arrows leaving Castro del Rio, but other than that, all good.

 

[Lana]

Also the information from the Jacobean Association of Almeria’s newsletter was terrific. The only thing missing on the trail were pilgrims - we only met 2 others in our 8 days.

 

[Adrian Harding 65]

I agree. In general, the sign marking is fantastic. However, there are odd occasions when you get five arrows passing through a tunnel, when there are no alternatives, and none at a T-junction when you have a decision to make. Usually, common sense prevails. As a general comment, when you get into Extremadura, the stencil arrows are tiny, and many have worn away or faded to white, so you do have to keep your wits about you after Monterrubio de la Serena.

 

[Former member 99290]

However, there are odd occasions when you get five arrows passing through a tunnel, when there are no alternatives, and none at a T-junction when you have a decision to make.

I remember this vividly. My husband and and I still laugh about it to this day! A whole lots of signs when there was literally nowhere else to go. And then the T junction with nothing. We were lucky to be walking together. One of us went left and the other right until we found a sign / arrow. And then called out to the other. Maybe we didn’t have enough common sense - to instinctively know which way to go. Perhaps we were scarred by an experience a day or two earlier when we got hopelessly lost in an olive grove! And ended up making our way down to the road. But generally the Mozarabe was v well marked, back in 2015.