Cycling the Coastal in May 2022

[stevewarne]

My girlfriend and I cycled the Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. It took us 6 days and we finished on May 30, 2022. This trip report is for anyone who may be interested in doing the same.

To frame this properly my girlfriend, Cheri, and I are avid long-distance cyclists. I’m 67, she is 65. My longest ride was 1,014 miles through the UK (the LEJOG). We ride at a casual pace, do not care for traveling on busy roads, and avoid steep hills where possible. Many of these restrictions are the result of being older, more careful, and probably a bit less capable. Because of this, we decided on the Senda Littoral route since it is flatter than the Coastal or Central.

Overview

Our trip took 6 days and consisted of 40 miles from Porto to Esposende, 32 miles to Caminha, 25 miles to Baiona, 26 miles to Pontevedra (with van transfer from Redondela to Pontevedra), 26 miles to Padron, and 17 miles to Santiago.

We rented our bikes from Cycling-Rentals, and had our luggage forwarded each day using Tuitrans. The bikes were hybrids (Cheri’s had a front suspension, mine did not). Both had 35mm wide tires which were adequate for our route.

We transported 2 suitcases with Tuitrans which were a chore to pack each day—just too much stuff.

I used a Garmin Edge 530 to help us not get lost. We had bike lights and, most of the time, wore safety vests.

Planning

We developed a GPS track for our Garmin device. In researching the track, we found that some areas where walkers go, cyclists can’t (or shouldn’t); many boardwalks are closed to bikes; some paths are too rugged or narrow; and one-way streets needed to be circumvented. There are a number of GPS tracks to download from various websites, but many of these follow the Coastal route, or take you on busy highways, or are just not good bike routes as mentioned above. So, we came up with a modified version of the Senda Littoral route. This modified track takes advantage of the many new cycle paths that have been built along the ocean in Portugal in recent years.

Our track worked out great except for the second day between Marinhas and the Rio Neiva. The road next to the beach seemed to evaporate and we had to push our bikes through beach sand and farmers’ fields. At one point we went inland to avoid more of the same, and got lost. Our mis-steps added about 4 hours to an already long day.

Observations

This was probably the best cycle trip we’ve ever done, notwithstanding day 2. The weather was fantastic—sunny but moderate during the day, and cool at night. It only rained a bit on the last day into Santiago. The views along the Atlantic were spectacular. As we went along, it seemed to change at every turn from city-scape (Porto) to wide open beaches. Then from rugged rocky coastline to remote grassy dunes. There were built up resort towns, small fishing villages, and protected eco-parks. And, a wealth of heritage architecture in the forts, churches, monasteries, and artifacts we saw along the way. Some say the coastline can get boring, but we didn’t see it that way. Maybe being on a bike is different because you are moving faster.

We were surprised at how beautiful the paths were through Portugal. Apparently, Portugal spent the past two years during the Covid pandemic building new pedestrian and bike paths along the ocean. Don’t be surprised if you don’t see them on Google Maps yet.

There were a few hills. Notable ones were just North of A Guarda, several in and around Vigo, and of course on the last day as the path climbed up toward Santiago. The minor hills we rode up—the steep ones we walked. None were a big issue.

One area of concern was transiting through Vigo because it is a larger city. It turned out not to be a problem because we went through on a Sunday—which I would recommend—as traffic was minimal. We also followed the park paths along the Rio Lagares which extends through the city and keeps you off busy streets. There is only about a mile of city street riding, and here you can just stay on the sidewalks and ride slow if you are nervous about traffic.

Note that you are not supposed to ride on sidewalks unless marked as such, or unless it is wide (I think 5 meters), but if you go slow and don’t endanger anyone, no one will say anything.

Overall, for the entire trip, it seemed cars were very respectful of bicycles and we didn’t feel uncomfortable on the occasions we rode in traffic.

Don’t miss a chance to ride on a boardwalk. I thought they would be bumpy and uncomfortable, but they were a blast. In fact, I felt I should be paying someone for the experience.

Some boardwalks had steps but since we were traveling light, it wasn’t too hard to carry our bikes up. Walking a bike down steps was easy if you kept one hand on the rear brake lever. If you have full paniers, steps could be a problem depending on your strength.

One downside of cycling the Camino is that you tend not to connect with people in the same way as walkers do. You go past walkers and say hello and chat a bit, but then you are on your way. And, we only saw a few other bikers. On the other hand, perhaps you have more time for personal reflection. I don’t think this detracted from the experience for us because in the evenings, we met many interesting people at pubs and restaurants and had some very interesting conversations.

Highlights

Obviously coming into Santiago de Compostela at the end was the biggest highlight, however, other great moments were as follows:

• Riding the narrow streets from the Se’ Cathedral in Porto to the river; and the beautiful paths, parks, and promenades to Matosinho. Don’t miss this section.
• The Eco Park area going north from Esposende was beautiful. Wide paths winding through pine forest and grassy dunes.
• The boardwalks coming into Ancora and the path crossing Rio Ancora were a blast. It was like an amusement park ride.
• The private ferry crossing the Minho River into Spain (7 Euros) is the way to go for a cyclist. Arrange a ride by sending Miguel a WhatsApp message at +351 913 254 110. The pickup is near the Barracuda bar. The boat drops you on the beach and you head left (West) to the Hotel El Molino. There you find a boardwalk for a pleasant ride around the peninsula and into A Guarda. This avoids riding on busy roads into A Guarda from the public ferry landing.
• I vote Baiona as the prettiest city along the route. There’s a lots to see and do here. We stayed at the Parador Baiona. The Parador and the grounds are so vast that it would take the better part of a day to explore.
• The views from the hills North of Vigo near the Ponte de Rande bridge were incredible and the paths into Redondela from there were some of the best.
• Yes, Santiago de Compostela was the ultimate. You need to stay here at least 2 days to see enough. I’m not sure but I think there is a café, pub, or restaurant every 5 feet in this city.
• Every town and city along the way had tremendous character including Vila do Conde, Povoa de Varzim, Viana do Castelo, and Camhina. At each of these, we wished we could stay a day or two to explore. But, unfortunately, our schedule was fixed.
• Loved Super Bock beer in Portugal, and Estrella Galicia beer in Spain. Didn’t like the grilled Sardines and Anchovies. Sorry.

Recommendations

1) Make sure you have a good bell on your bike. Many walkers use headphones and will not hear a quiet bell. Pass with extreme care as it’s your responsibility, as a passer, to avoid an accident.

2) Don’t miss the ride from Porto to Matosinho along the river and Atlantic coast.

3) Take the ferry across the river Limia into Viana do Castelo to avoid riding in traffic across the narrow Ponte Eiffel bridge. The ferry dock is near Restaurante Foz. You can buy a beer at a shack next to the ferry dock. Retired local men hang out there and were fun to chat with.

4) If you run out of energy or have issues with your bike, just call a cab. We had a problem on one day and it cost 25 Euros to haul us and our bikes 6 miles to the next hotel. Lesson: don’t kill yourself.

5) Be prepared for a flat tire and know how to fix it. We had one flat.

6) There is a volunteer delegation for English speakers at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago. I’m not sure who sponsors it but when you go the Pilgrim’s Office and a representative hears you speak English, they will invite you upstairs for coffee/tea and to chat about your experience. We did this and found it to be a pleasant addition to the overall experience. Anyway, take advantage of this if it’s offered.

7) Don’t forget your mask for the Pilgrims office. If you do, you can buy one across the street for 20 cents. If you are nice to them, it’s free.

8) We thought flat pedals worked best for us since we were on a lot of dirt and sandy roads. Maybe clips for someone riding faster and on more streets. Hybrid bikes worked well. Pure mountain bikes might be overkill, but would work.

9) Be mindful that in Portugal and Spain people eat later. So, opening and closing times are very different than in the USA. Many restaurants are not open Sundays and Mondays. Don’t always expect to find a café open at 7 am.

Would we do this again? What would we Change?

The answer is emphatically yes, we would do this again! We would research a better way to get from Esposende to Caminha to avoid the pathless beach and farmland areas. OK, we probably just missed the paths.

We’d bring less clothes (we were overly prepared for cold and wind).

The first 2 days combined were 72 miles. Breaking this into 3 days at roughly 24 miles per day would make this a more pleasant 7-day trip.

Restaurants of Note

• Armazém do Caffè in Leça da Palmeira across river from Matosinho (9.4 miles from start in Porto) is a good place for your 1st tea break (code for beer break if it’s afternoon).
• Restaurante Castro de São Paio, (17 miles from Porto) is a great place for a tea break or lunch. Sits on a bluff overlooking the ocean. A bit upscale. You may need reservations if it’s busy.
• Brejuinha - Feel The Nature is a restaurant West of Anha. It is in a remote area in a park-like setting. Comfortable outdoor patio. Excellent food and atmosphere.
• Between A Guarda and the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia is the restaurant Explanada do horizonte. Overlooks the ocean and is a great place for a tea break.
• O Peñasco restaurant along PO-552 just after Barcelos, and about 6 miles before Baiona. Good restaurant with a nice veranda to eat on.
• Restaurant at Parador de Baiona. Elegant, expensive, but a great experience in fine dining.
• Coffee Runners café in Vigo. Perfect place in Vigo to stop for tea break and/or lunch. Large city park across the street.
• O Cuberto is a small out of the way restaurant on the bike/pedestrian path before Caldas de Reis. Great place for a tea break. Casual, dog friendly patio area to relax. Lots of Pilgrims here.
• Cafetería Termas in Caldas de Reis. Overlooking the bridge and river. Great service and good food.
• Café Novegil is between Padron and Santiago. You’ll be in a hurry to get to Santiago and this is a quick and convenient place to stop for a tea break.

Hotels of Note

All of them were exceptional, including the Parador Baiona and Parador Pontevedra, but a special call out to Dukes Corner Guest House in Porto and Casa Antigua in Padron. The first being a small guest house in Porto of exceptional character, and the second a boutique-ish hotel in Padron. Both of these accommodations had separate sitting rooms and balconies. Both had a garden area to relax with a glass of wine. Both were exceptional values.

 

[Heather R.]

My girlfriend and I cycled the Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. It took us 6 days and we finished on May 30, 2022. This trip report is for anyone who may be interested in doing the same.

To frame this properly my girlfriend, Cheri, and I are avid long-distance cyclists. I’m 67, she is 65. My longest ride was 1,014 miles through the UK (the LEJOG). We ride at a casual pace, do not care for traveling on busy roads, and avoid steep hills where possible. Many of these restrictions are the result of being older, more careful, and probably a bit less capable. Because of this, we decided on the Senda Littoral route since it is flatter than the Coastal or Central.

Overview

Our trip took 6 days and consisted of 40 miles from Porto to Esposende, 32 miles to Caminha, 25 miles to Baiona, 26 miles to Pontevedra (with van transfer from Redondela to Pontevedra), 26 miles to Padron, and 17 miles to Santiago.

We rented our bikes from Cycling-Rentals, and had our luggage forwarded each day using Tuitrans. The bikes were hybrids (Cheri’s had a front suspension, mine did not). Both had 35mm wide tires which were adequate for our route.

We transported 2 suitcases with Tuitrans which were a chore to pack each day—just too much stuff.

I used a Garmin Edge 530 to help us not get lost. We had bike lights and, most of the time, wore safety vests.

Planning

We developed a GPS track for our Garmin device. In researching the track, we found that some areas where walkers go, cyclists can’t (or shouldn’t); many boardwalks are closed to bikes; some paths are too rugged or narrow; and one-way streets needed to be circumvented. There are a number of GPS tracks to download from various websites, but many of these follow the Coastal route, or take you on busy highways, or are just not good bike routes as mentioned above. So, we came up with a modified version of the Senda Littoral route. This modified track takes advantage of the many new cycle paths that have been built along the ocean in Portugal in recent years.

Our track worked out great except for the second day between Marinhas and the Rio Neiva. The road next to the beach seemed to evaporate and we had to push our bikes through beach sand and farmers’ fields. At one point we went inland to avoid more of the same, and got lost. Our mis-steps added about 4 hours to an already long day.

Observations

This was probably the best cycle trip we’ve ever done, notwithstanding day 2. The weather was fantastic—sunny but moderate during the day, and cool at night. It only rained a bit on the last day into Santiago. The views along the Atlantic were spectacular. As we went along, it seemed to change at every turn from city-scape (Porto) to wide open beaches. Then from rugged rocky coastline to remote grassy dunes. There were built up resort towns, small fishing villages, and protected eco-parks. And, a wealth of heritage architecture in the forts, churches, monasteries, and artifacts we saw along the way. Some say the coastline can get boring, but we didn’t see it that way. Maybe being on a bike is different because you are moving faster.

We were surprised at how beautiful the paths were through Portugal. Apparently, Portugal spent the past two years during the Covid pandemic building new pedestrian and bike paths along the ocean. Don’t be surprised if you don’t see them on Google Maps yet.

There were a few hills. Notable ones were just North of A Guarda, several in and around Vigo, and of course on the last day as the path climbed up toward Santiago. The minor hills we rode up—the steep ones we walked. None were a big issue.

One area of concern was transiting through Vigo because it is a larger city. It turned out not to be a problem because we went through on a Sunday—which I would recommend—as traffic was minimal. We also followed the park paths along the Rio Lagares which extends through the city and keeps you off busy streets. There is only about a mile of city street riding, and here you can just stay on the sidewalks and ride slow if you are nervous about traffic.

Note that you are not supposed to ride on sidewalks unless marked as such, or unless it is wide (I think 5 meters), but if you go slow and don’t endanger anyone, no one will say anything.

Overall, for the entire trip, it seemed cars were very respectful of bicycles and we didn’t feel uncomfortable on the occasions we rode in traffic.

Don’t miss a chance to ride on a boardwalk. I thought they would be bumpy and uncomfortable, but they were a blast. In fact, I felt I should be paying someone for the experience.

Some boardwalks had steps but since we were traveling light, it wasn’t too hard to carry our bikes up. Walking a bike down steps was easy if you kept one hand on the rear brake lever. If you have full paniers, steps could be a problem depending on your strength.

One downside of cycling the Camino is that you tend not to connect with people in the same way as walkers do. You go past walkers and say hello and chat a bit, but then you are on your way. And, we only saw a few other bikers. On the other hand, perhaps you have more time for personal reflection. I don’t think this detracted from the experience for us because in the evenings, we met many interesting people at pubs and restaurants and had some very interesting conversations.

Highlights

Obviously coming into Santiago de Compostela at the end was the biggest highlight, however, other great moments were as follows:

• Riding the narrow streets from the Se’ Cathedral in Porto to the river; and the beautiful paths, parks, and promenades to Matosinho. Don’t miss this section.
• The Eco Park area going north from Esposende was beautiful. Wide paths winding through pine forest and grassy dunes.
• The boardwalks coming into Ancora and the path crossing Rio Ancora were a blast. It was like an amusement park ride.
• The private ferry crossing the Minho River into Spain (7 Euros) is the way to go for a cyclist. Arrange a ride by sending Miguel a WhatsApp message at +351 913 254 110. The pickup is near the Barracuda bar. The boat drops you on the beach and you head left (West) to the Hotel El Molino. There you find a boardwalk for a pleasant ride around the peninsula and into A Guarda. This avoids riding on busy roads into A Guarda from the public ferry landing.
• I vote Baiona as the prettiest city along the route. There’s a lots to see and do here. We stayed at the Parador Baiona. The Parador and the grounds are so vast that it would take the better part of a day to explore.
• The views from the hills North of Vigo near the Ponte de Rande bridge were incredible and the paths into Redondela from there were some of the best.
• Yes, Santiago de Compostela was the ultimate. You need to stay here at least 2 days to see enough. I’m not sure but I think there is a café, pub, or restaurant every 5 feet in this city.
• Every town and city along the way had tremendous character including Vila do Conde, Povoa de Varzim, Viana do Castelo, and Camhina. At each of these, we wished we could stay a day or two to explore. But, unfortunately, our schedule was fixed.
• Loved Super Bock beer in Portugal, and Estrella Galicia beer in Spain. Didn’t like the grilled Sardines and Anchovies. Sorry.

Recommendations

1) Make sure you have a good bell on your bike. Many walkers use headphones and will not hear a quiet bell. Pass with extreme care as it’s your responsibility, as a passer, to avoid an accident.

2) Don’t miss the ride from Porto to Matosinho along the river and Atlantic coast.

3) Take the ferry across the river Limia into Viana do Castelo to avoid riding in traffic across the narrow Ponte Eiffel bridge. The ferry dock is near Restaurante Foz. You can buy a beer at a shack next to the ferry dock. Retired local men hang out there and were fun to chat with.

4) If you run out of energy or have issues with your bike, just call a cab. We had a problem on one day and it cost 25 Euros to haul us and our bikes 6 miles to the next hotel. Lesson: don’t kill yourself.

5) Be prepared for a flat tire and know how to fix it. We had one flat.

6) There is a volunteer delegation for English speakers at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago. I’m not sure who sponsors it but when you go the Pilgrim’s Office and a representative hears you speak English, they will invite you upstairs for coffee/tea and to chat about your experience. We did this and found it to be a pleasant addition to the overall experience. Anyway, take advantage of this if it’s offered.

7) Don’t forget your mask for the Pilgrims office. If you do, you can buy one across the street for 20 cents. If you are nice to them, it’s free.

8) We thought flat pedals worked best for us since we were on a lot of dirt and sandy roads. Maybe clips for someone riding faster and on more streets. Hybrid bikes worked well. Pure mountain bikes might be overkill, but would work.

9) Be mindful that in Portugal and Spain people eat later. So, opening and closing times are very different than in the USA. Many restaurants are not open Sundays and Mondays. Don’t always expect to find a café open at 7 am.

Would we do this again? What would we Change?

The answer is emphatically yes, we would do this again! We would research a better way to get from Esposende to Caminha to avoid the pathless beach and farmland areas. OK, we probably just missed the paths.

We’d bring less clothes (we were overly prepared for cold and wind).

The first 2 days combined were 72 miles. Breaking this into 3 days at roughly 24 miles per day would make this a more pleasant 7-day trip.

Restaurants of Note

• Armazém do Caffè in Leça da Palmeira across river from Matosinho (9.4 miles from start in Porto) is a good place for your 1st tea break (code for beer break if it’s afternoon).
• Restaurante Castro de São Paio, (17 miles from Porto) is a great place for a tea break or lunch. Sits on a bluff overlooking the ocean. A bit upscale. You may need reservations if it’s busy.
• Brejuinha - Feel The Nature is a restaurant West of Anha. It is in a remote area in a park-like setting. Comfortable outdoor patio. Excellent food and atmosphere.
• Between A Guarda and the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia is the restaurant Explanada do horizonte. Overlooks the ocean and is a great place for a tea break.
• O Peñasco restaurant along PO-552 just after Barcelos, and about 6 miles before Baiona. Good restaurant with a nice veranda to eat on.
• Restaurant at Parador de Baiona. Elegant, expensive, but a great experience in fine dining.
• Coffee Runners café in Vigo. Perfect place in Vigo to stop for tea break and/or lunch. Large city park across the street.
• O Cuberto is a small out of the way restaurant on the bike/pedestrian path before Caldas de Reis. Great place for a tea break. Casual, dog friendly patio area to relax. Lots of Pilgrims here.
• Cafetería Termas in Caldas de Reis. Overlooking the bridge and river. Great service and good food.
• Café Novegil is between Padron and Santiago. You’ll be in a hurry to get to Santiago and this is a quick and convenient place to stop for a tea break.

Hotels of Note

All of them were exceptional, including the Parador Baiona and Parador Pontevedra, but a special call out to Dukes Corner Guest House in Porto and Casa Antigua in Padron. The first being a small guest house in Porto of exceptional character, and the second a boutique-ish hotel in Padron. Both of these accommodations had separate sitting rooms and balconies. Both had a garden area to relax with a glass of wine. Both were exceptional values.

Aloha Steve,
Thank you for writing this very helpful post. I am booked to cycle the Camino in Sept from Porto (coastal). I am using a tour group and started training 2 weeks ago. I haven't been on a bike in years so it's a bit of a challenge. Today, however, I cycled 20 miles. I understand the ADD (average daily distance) is 30 miles. It's also over six days. Any training tips you can share.
Mahalo,
Heather

 

[orangecountymark]

Aloha Steve,
Thank you for writing this very helpful post. I am booked to cycle the Camino in Sept from Porto (coastal). I am using a tour group and started training 2 weeks ago. I haven't been on a bike in years so it's a bit of a challenge. Today, however, I cycled 20 miles. I understand the ADD (average daily distance) is 30 miles. It's also over six days. Any training tips you can share.
Mahalo,
Heather

Hi Heather
NOTE due to my knees we used Pedal assist ebikes in Eco mode. (An opinion from another reader age 65 - my wife and I did a 350 mile trip last summer and averaged 30 miles per day. We trained for two and a half months riding 3 or 4 days per week and other body weight exercises and walks on other days. Since we were going to packing our own gear during the real ride we did train with weighted bags. Our practice rides started at 10 to 12 miles and we built up to 25 miles. We practiced on some hills so we would be prepared for those as well. Loaded our bikes were a total of 70 pounds so in Eco power hills were tough. Long story short we were totally ready. At the end of the ride we really were glad we put in the work and honestly we were bummed we were done. Honestly we could have done it again. We took our time on the ride and had extra energy to do side trips as well. Just put in the work and you will enjoy it more. I can’t speak for non Ebikes. Hope this is somewhat helpful.

 

[Corned Beef]

It's all about weight; elevation climbed; distance; and your desire to sit for a number of hours.

1/ The difference between an ebike and a standard bike is about 10kg (12kg versus 22kg) so most people can do 20-30 miles on a standard bike and about 30-40 on an ebike.

2/ There are more serious climbs in Galicia than in Portugal. The last section into Santiago is annoying as you just want to get there - and it's uphill.

3/ Panniers are in the range of 10kg - 15 kg depending on how much clothing you like to take plus bike tools. If you *think* you are not fit, get your bags taken by Tuitrans / Correos between accommodation.

So if you intend to travel light (i.e. using bag transport) then climbs and not distance would be the best training. Though there is merit in learning to walk your bike *safely* if you need to get off and push.

Ebikes are good but not necessarily worth the extra weight if you need to push/carry them. So I would say the best training / learning is to work out how much bike dead weight you can handle in an emergency and hope not to have to do it.

Did this route last year, non-E, carrying panniers in Portugal only. 25-30 miles/day is achievable. Steve's splits above are ideal. If you want to shorten the first day to Esposende you can take the Porto Metro out to one of the outlying towns and start from there. Or split the first day.

https://en.metrodoporto.pt/metrodoporto/uploads/document/file/265/PortoMetro2ed2019_prueba.pdf

 

[stevewarne]

It's all about weight; elevation climbed; distance; and your desire to sit for a number of hours.

1/ The difference between an ebike and a standard bike is about 10kg (12kg versus 22kg) so most people can do 20-30 miles on a standard bike and about 30-40 on an ebike.

2/ There are more serious climbs in Galicia than in Portugal. The last section into Santiago is annoying as you just want to get there - and it's uphill.

3/ Panniers are in the range of 10kg - 15 kg depending on how much clothing you like to take plus bike tools. If you *think* you are not fit, get your bags taken by Tuitrans / Correos between accommodation.

So if you intend to travel light (i.e. using bag transport) then climbs and not distance would be the best training. Though there is merit in learning to walk your bike *safely* if you need to get off and push.

Ebikes are good but not necessarily worth the extra weight if you need to push/carry them. So I would say the best training / learning is to work out how much bike dead weight you can handle in an emergency and hope not to have to do it.

Did this route last year, non-E, carrying panniers in Portugal only. 25-30 miles/day is achievable. Steve's splits above are ideal. If you want to shorten the first day to Esposende you can take the Porto Metro out to one of the outlying towns and start from there. Or split the first day.

https://en.metrodoporto.pt/metrodoporto/uploads/document/file/265/PortoMetro2ed2019_prueba.pdf

Heather, thank you for the question. I think there are 2 aspects of the training to consider. One is physical training so that you have the endurance to do the 30 or so miles each day, and then there is what my trainer calls time-in-the-saddle. The first one is pretty basic and can involve either outdoor or indoor training rides. Indoor meaning on a Peloton, Kinetic, Wahoo, or similar trainer. If you are already in pretty good shape, you may not have too much to worry about since 30 miles a day isn’t excessive. Some caveats on that I’ll mention later.

The time-in-the-saddle, however, is very important especially if you haven’t ridden in a while. This involves getting out and riding in similar conditions to your tour, i.e., on dirt roads, cobble stones, city streets, and with other riders. I’ve always noticed that at the beginning of every year, I’m a little shaky riding in traffic and riding with other cyclists and I sometimes make stupid mistakes. After a few rides I start to get my confidence back, make smarter decisions, and become a safer rider. So, no matter how good of shape you are in, it’s just a good idea to get out and ride a bunch before your tour, even if they are not endurance type rides.

On the physical conditioning, the suggestions from orangecountymark and Corned Beef are good. Just come up with a training plan that builds your endurance. One note on our trip is that one day, the combination of heat and pushing bikes through sand made it feel like we rode 60 miles and not 32. So be prepared for heat and possible dehydration. I’ve gotten dehydrated on tours and it’s not pleasant. Drinking water continuously should be part of your training because if you wait until you are thirsty, you are probably already dehydrated.

One last note—I said 30 miles a day isn’t excessive, but that depends on how you are pushing yourself. Until you are used to the mileage, take your time, stop often, and spread the mileage out across the day. Going too fast will burn you out quicker.

That’s all I can think of. I wish you a safe and fun trip. Please post on how it goes.

 

[Heather R.]

Hi Heather
NOTE due to my knees we used Pedal assist ebikes in Eco mode. (An opinion from another reader age 65 - my wife and I did a 350 mile trip last summer and averaged 30 miles per day. We trained for two and a half months riding 3 or 4 days per week and other body weight exercises and walks on other days. Since we were going to packing our own gear during the real ride we did train with weighted bags. Our practice rides started at 10 to 12 miles and we built up to 25 miles. We practiced on some hills so we would be prepared for those as well. Loaded our bikes were a total of 70 pounds so in Eco power hills were tough. Long story short we were totally ready. At the end of the ride we really were glad we put in the work and honestly we were bummed we were done. Honestly we could have done it again. We took our time on the ride and had extra energy to do side trips as well. Just put in the work and you will enjoy it more. I can’t speak for non Ebikes. Hope this is somewhat helpful.

Thank you for your tips. I hope I'm not making a mistake trying it with a regular bike. If I have to, I will walk my bike up the hills.

 

[Heather R.]

It's all about weight; elevation climbed; distance; and your desire to sit for a number of hours.

1/ The difference between an ebike and a standard bike is about 10kg (12kg versus 22kg) so most people can do 20-30 miles on a standard bike and about 30-40 on an ebike.

2/ There are more serious climbs in Galicia than in Portugal. The last section into Santiago is annoying as you just want to get there - and it's uphill.

3/ Panniers are in the range of 10kg - 15 kg depending on how much clothing you like to take plus bike tools. If you *think* you are not fit, get your bags taken by Tuitrans / Correos between accommodation.

So if you intend to travel light (i.e. using bag transport) then climbs and not distance would be the best training. Though there is merit in learning to walk your bike *safely* if you need to get off and push.

Ebikes are good but not necessarily worth the extra weight if you need to push/carry them. So I would say the best training / learning is to work out how much bike dead weight you can handle in an emergency and hope not to have to do it.

Did this route last year, non-E, carrying panniers in Portugal only. 25-30 miles/day is achievable. Steve's splits above are ideal. If you want to shorten the first day to Esposende you can take the Porto Metro out to one of the outlying towns and start from there. Or split the first day.

https://en.metrodoporto.pt/metrodoporto/uploads/document/file/265/PortoMetro2ed2019_prueba.pdf

Good advice. Thank you

 

[Heather R.]

Heather, thank you for the question. I think there are 2 aspects of the training to consider. One is physical training so that you have the endurance to do the 30 or so miles each day, and then there is what my trainer calls time-in-the-saddle. The first one is pretty basic and can involve either outdoor or indoor training rides. Indoor meaning on a Peloton, Kinetic, Wahoo, or similar trainer. If you are already in pretty good shape, you may not have too much to worry about since 30 miles a day isn’t excessive. Some caveats on that I’ll mention later.

The time-in-the-saddle, however, is very important especially if you haven’t ridden in a while. This involves getting out and riding in similar conditions to your tour, i.e., on dirt roads, cobble stones, city streets, and with other riders. I’ve always noticed that at the beginning of every year, I’m a little shaky riding in traffic and riding with other cyclists and I sometimes make stupid mistakes. After a few rides I start to get my confidence back, make smarter decisions, and become a safer rider. So, no matter how good of shape you are in, it’s just a good idea to get out and ride a bunch before your tour, even if they are not endurance type rides.

On the physical conditioning, the suggestions from orangecountymark and Corned Beef are good. Just come up with a training plan that builds your endurance. One note on our trip is that one day, the combination of heat and pushing bikes through sand made it feel like we rode 60 miles and not 32. So be prepared for heat and possible dehydration. I’ve gotten dehydrated on tours and it’s not pleasant. Drinking water continuously should be part of your training because if you wait until you are thirsty, you are probably already dehydrated.

One last note—I said 30 miles a day isn’t excessive, but that depends on how you are pushing yourself. Until you are used to the mileage, take your time, stop often, and spread the mileage out across the day. Going too fast will burn you out quicker.

That’s all I can think of. I wish you a safe and fun trip. Please post on how it goes.

Thank you so much. I can tell I'm getting stronger. I'm riding 3 days a week right now and plan to increase to 4 next week. I can ride 20 miles at a time and will increase it this weekend to 25. On the other days, I'm walking. I live in Hawaii so I'm riding in sun and then rain and sun again all in one ride. All of the comments here have been very much appreciated. Mahalo nui loa

 

[JoEllen]

My girlfriend and I cycled the Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. It took us 6 days and we finished on May 30, 2022. This trip report is for anyone who may be interested in doing the same.

To frame this properly my girlfriend, Cheri, and I are avid long-distance cyclists. I’m 67, she is 65. My longest ride was 1,014 miles through the UK (the LEJOG). We ride at a casual pace, do not care for traveling on busy roads, and avoid steep hills where possible. Many of these restrictions are the result of being older, more careful, and probably a bit less capable. Because of this, we decided on the Senda Littoral route since it is flatter than the Coastal or Central.

Overview

Our trip took 6 days and consisted of 40 miles from Porto to Esposende, 32 miles to Caminha, 25 miles to Baiona, 26 miles to Pontevedra (with van transfer from Redondela to Pontevedra), 26 miles to Padron, and 17 miles to Santiago.

We rented our bikes from Cycling-Rentals, and had our luggage forwarded each day using Tuitrans. The bikes were hybrids (Cheri’s had a front suspension, mine did not). Both had 35mm wide tires which were adequate for our route.

We transported 2 suitcases with Tuitrans which were a chore to pack each day—just too much stuff.

I used a Garmin Edge 530 to help us not get lost. We had bike lights and, most of the time, wore safety vests.

Planning

We developed a GPS track for our Garmin device. In researching the track, we found that some areas where walkers go, cyclists can’t (or shouldn’t); many boardwalks are closed to bikes; some paths are too rugged or narrow; and one-way streets needed to be circumvented. There are a number of GPS tracks to download from various websites, but many of these follow the Coastal route, or take you on busy highways, or are just not good bike routes as mentioned above. So, we came up with a modified version of the Senda Littoral route. This modified track takes advantage of the many new cycle paths that have been built along the ocean in Portugal in recent years.

Our track worked out great except for the second day between Marinhas and the Rio Neiva. The road next to the beach seemed to evaporate and we had to push our bikes through beach sand and farmers’ fields. At one point we went inland to avoid more of the same, and got lost. Our mis-steps added about 4 hours to an already long day.

Observations

This was probably the best cycle trip we’ve ever done, notwithstanding day 2. The weather was fantastic—sunny but moderate during the day, and cool at night. It only rained a bit on the last day into Santiago. The views along the Atlantic were spectacular. As we went along, it seemed to change at every turn from city-scape (Porto) to wide open beaches. Then from rugged rocky coastline to remote grassy dunes. There were built up resort towns, small fishing villages, and protected eco-parks. And, a wealth of heritage architecture in the forts, churches, monasteries, and artifacts we saw along the way. Some say the coastline can get boring, but we didn’t see it that way. Maybe being on a bike is different because you are moving faster.

We were surprised at how beautiful the paths were through Portugal. Apparently, Portugal spent the past two years during the Covid pandemic building new pedestrian and bike paths along the ocean. Don’t be surprised if you don’t see them on Google Maps yet.

There were a few hills. Notable ones were just North of A Guarda, several in and around Vigo, and of course on the last day as the path climbed up toward Santiago. The minor hills we rode up—the steep ones we walked. None were a big issue.

One area of concern was transiting through Vigo because it is a larger city. It turned out not to be a problem because we went through on a Sunday—which I would recommend—as traffic was minimal. We also followed the park paths along the Rio Lagares which extends through the city and keeps you off busy streets. There is only about a mile of city street riding, and here you can just stay on the sidewalks and ride slow if you are nervous about traffic.

Note that you are not supposed to ride on sidewalks unless marked as such, or unless it is wide (I think 5 meters), but if you go slow and don’t endanger anyone, no one will say anything.

Overall, for the entire trip, it seemed cars were very respectful of bicycles and we didn’t feel uncomfortable on the occasions we rode in traffic.

Don’t miss a chance to ride on a boardwalk. I thought they would be bumpy and uncomfortable, but they were a blast. In fact, I felt I should be paying someone for the experience.

Some boardwalks had steps but since we were traveling light, it wasn’t too hard to carry our bikes up. Walking a bike down steps was easy if you kept one hand on the rear brake lever. If you have full paniers, steps could be a problem depending on your strength.

One downside of cycling the Camino is that you tend not to connect with people in the same way as walkers do. You go past walkers and say hello and chat a bit, but then you are on your way. And, we only saw a few other bikers. On the other hand, perhaps you have more time for personal reflection. I don’t think this detracted from the experience for us because in the evenings, we met many interesting people at pubs and restaurants and had some very interesting conversations.

Highlights

Obviously coming into Santiago de Compostela at the end was the biggest highlight, however, other great moments were as follows:

• Riding the narrow streets from the Se’ Cathedral in Porto to the river; and the beautiful paths, parks, and promenades to Matosinho. Don’t miss this section.
• The Eco Park area going north from Esposende was beautiful. Wide paths winding through pine forest and grassy dunes.
• The boardwalks coming into Ancora and the path crossing Rio Ancora were a blast. It was like an amusement park ride.
• The private ferry crossing the Minho River into Spain (7 Euros) is the way to go for a cyclist. Arrange a ride by sending Miguel a WhatsApp message at +351 913 254 110. The pickup is near the Barracuda bar. The boat drops you on the beach and you head left (West) to the Hotel El Molino. There you find a boardwalk for a pleasant ride around the peninsula and into A Guarda. This avoids riding on busy roads into A Guarda from the public ferry landing.
• I vote Baiona as the prettiest city along the route. There’s a lots to see and do here. We stayed at the Parador Baiona. The Parador and the grounds are so vast that it would take the better part of a day to explore.
• The views from the hills North of Vigo near the Ponte de Rande bridge were incredible and the paths into Redondela from there were some of the best.
• Yes, Santiago de Compostela was the ultimate. You need to stay here at least 2 days to see enough. I’m not sure but I think there is a café, pub, or restaurant every 5 feet in this city.
• Every town and city along the way had tremendous character including Vila do Conde, Povoa de Varzim, Viana do Castelo, and Camhina. At each of these, we wished we could stay a day or two to explore. But, unfortunately, our schedule was fixed.
• Loved Super Bock beer in Portugal, and Estrella Galicia beer in Spain. Didn’t like the grilled Sardines and Anchovies. Sorry.

Recommendations

1) Make sure you have a good bell on your bike. Many walkers use headphones and will not hear a quiet bell. Pass with extreme care as it’s your responsibility, as a passer, to avoid an accident.

2) Don’t miss the ride from Porto to Matosinho along the river and Atlantic coast.

3) Take the ferry across the river Limia into Viana do Castelo to avoid riding in traffic across the narrow Ponte Eiffel bridge. The ferry dock is near Restaurante Foz. You can buy a beer at a shack next to the ferry dock. Retired local men hang out there and were fun to chat with.

4) If you run out of energy or have issues with your bike, just call a cab. We had a problem on one day and it cost 25 Euros to haul us and our bikes 6 miles to the next hotel. Lesson: don’t kill yourself.

5) Be prepared for a flat tire and know how to fix it. We had one flat.

6) There is a volunteer delegation for English speakers at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago. I’m not sure who sponsors it but when you go the Pilgrim’s Office and a representative hears you speak English, they will invite you upstairs for coffee/tea and to chat about your experience. We did this and found it to be a pleasant addition to the overall experience. Anyway, take advantage of this if it’s offered.

7) Don’t forget your mask for the Pilgrims office. If you do, you can buy one across the street for 20 cents. If you are nice to them, it’s free.

8) We thought flat pedals worked best for us since we were on a lot of dirt and sandy roads. Maybe clips for someone riding faster and on more streets. Hybrid bikes worked well. Pure mountain bikes might be overkill, but would work.

9) Be mindful that in Portugal and Spain people eat later. So, opening and closing times are very different than in the USA. Many restaurants are not open Sundays and Mondays. Don’t always expect to find a café open at 7 am.

Would we do this again? What would we Change?

The answer is emphatically yes, we would do this again! We would research a better way to get from Esposende to Caminha to avoid the pathless beach and farmland areas. OK, we probably just missed the paths.

We’d bring less clothes (we were overly prepared for cold and wind).

The first 2 days combined were 72 miles. Breaking this into 3 days at roughly 24 miles per day would make this a more pleasant 7-day trip.

Restaurants of Note

• Armazém do Caffè in Leça da Palmeira across river from Matosinho (9.4 miles from start in Porto) is a good place for your 1st tea break (code for beer break if it’s afternoon).
• Restaurante Castro de São Paio, (17 miles from Porto) is a great place for a tea break or lunch. Sits on a bluff overlooking the ocean. A bit upscale. You may need reservations if it’s busy.
• Brejuinha - Feel The Nature is a restaurant West of Anha. It is in a remote area in a park-like setting. Comfortable outdoor patio. Excellent food and atmosphere.
• Between A Guarda and the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia is the restaurant Explanada do horizonte. Overlooks the ocean and is a great place for a tea break.
• O Peñasco restaurant along PO-552 just after Barcelos, and about 6 miles before Baiona. Good restaurant with a nice veranda to eat on.
• Restaurant at Parador de Baiona. Elegant, expensive, but a great experience in fine dining.
• Coffee Runners café in Vigo. Perfect place in Vigo to stop for tea break and/or lunch. Large city park across the street.
• O Cuberto is a small out of the way restaurant on the bike/pedestrian path before Caldas de Reis. Great place for a tea break. Casual, dog friendly patio area to relax. Lots of Pilgrims here.
• Cafetería Termas in Caldas de Reis. Overlooking the bridge and river. Great service and good food.
• Café Novegil is between Padron and Santiago. You’ll be in a hurry to get to Santiago and this is a quick and convenient place to stop for a tea break.

Hotels of Note

All of them were exceptional, including the Parador Baiona and Parador Pontevedra, but a special call out to Dukes Corner Guest House in Porto and Casa Antigua in Padron. The first being a small guest house in Porto of exceptional character, and the second a boutique-ish hotel in Padron. Both of these accommodations had separate sitting rooms and balconies. Both had a garden area to relax with a glass of wine. Both were exceptional values.

Hi Steve,
Thanks for all your information above. A group of us are cycling the camino in September - the coastal route. I have done the Frances twice, as has one other of our party, but this is the first time on the Portuguese - AND the first time on a bike. I was curious about your GPS track. I have been viewing the route on Google Maps satellite and was wondering about some of the "wooded paths" or other areas that may not be doable on a bike. There are also a couple times we get onto the N1 and the stretches I viewed don't look bike friendly. I downloaded Gaia on my phone so that may help, but do you have any other specific places we should avoid (other than what you specified about the your second day. Any way you could share the GPS track - I have a Garmin Oregon I use for both hiking and kayaking.

 

[antoniu]

My girlfriend and I cycled the Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. It took us 6 days and we finished on May 30, 2022. This trip report is for anyone who may be interested in doing the same.

To frame this properly my girlfriend, Cheri, and I are avid long-distance cyclists. I’m 67, she is 65. My longest ride was 1,014 miles through the UK (the LEJOG). We ride at a casual pace, do not care for traveling on busy roads, and avoid steep hills where possible. Many of these restrictions are the result of being older, more careful, and probably a bit less capable. Because of this, we decided on the Senda Littoral route since it is flatter than the Coastal or Central.

Overview

Our trip took 6 days and consisted of 40 miles from Porto to Esposende, 32 miles to Caminha, 25 miles to Baiona, 26 miles to Pontevedra (with van transfer from Redondela to Pontevedra), 26 miles to Padron, and 17 miles to Santiago.

We rented our bikes from Cycling-Rentals, and had our luggage forwarded each day using Tuitrans. The bikes were hybrids (Cheri’s had a front suspension, mine did not). Both had 35mm wide tires which were adequate for our route.

We transported 2 suitcases with Tuitrans which were a chore to pack each day—just too much stuff.

I used a Garmin Edge 530 to help us not get lost. We had bike lights and, most of the time, wore safety vests.

Planning

We developed a GPS track for our Garmin device. In researching the track, we found that some areas where walkers go, cyclists can’t (or shouldn’t); many boardwalks are closed to bikes; some paths are too rugged or narrow; and one-way streets needed to be circumvented. There are a number of GPS tracks to download from various websites, but many of these follow the Coastal route, or take you on busy highways, or are just not good bike routes as mentioned above. So, we came up with a modified version of the Senda Littoral route. This modified track takes advantage of the many new cycle paths that have been built along the ocean in Portugal in recent years.

Our track worked out great except for the second day between Marinhas and the Rio Neiva. The road next to the beach seemed to evaporate and we had to push our bikes through beach sand and farmers’ fields. At one point we went inland to avoid more of the same, and got lost. Our mis-steps added about 4 hours to an already long day.

Observations

This was probably the best cycle trip we’ve ever done, notwithstanding day 2. The weather was fantastic—sunny but moderate during the day, and cool at night. It only rained a bit on the last day into Santiago. The views along the Atlantic were spectacular. As we went along, it seemed to change at every turn from city-scape (Porto) to wide open beaches. Then from rugged rocky coastline to remote grassy dunes. There were built up resort towns, small fishing villages, and protected eco-parks. And, a wealth of heritage architecture in the forts, churches, monasteries, and artifacts we saw along the way. Some say the coastline can get boring, but we didn’t see it that way. Maybe being on a bike is different because you are moving faster.

We were surprised at how beautiful the paths were through Portugal. Apparently, Portugal spent the past two years during the Covid pandemic building new pedestrian and bike paths along the ocean. Don’t be surprised if you don’t see them on Google Maps yet.

There were a few hills. Notable ones were just North of A Guarda, several in and around Vigo, and of course on the last day as the path climbed up toward Santiago. The minor hills we rode up—the steep ones we walked. None were a big issue.

One area of concern was transiting through Vigo because it is a larger city. It turned out not to be a problem because we went through on a Sunday—which I would recommend—as traffic was minimal. We also followed the park paths along the Rio Lagares which extends through the city and keeps you off busy streets. There is only about a mile of city street riding, and here you can just stay on the sidewalks and ride slow if you are nervous about traffic.

Note that you are not supposed to ride on sidewalks unless marked as such, or unless it is wide (I think 5 meters), but if you go slow and don’t endanger anyone, no one will say anything.

Overall, for the entire trip, it seemed cars were very respectful of bicycles and we didn’t feel uncomfortable on the occasions we rode in traffic.

Don’t miss a chance to ride on a boardwalk. I thought they would be bumpy and uncomfortable, but they were a blast. In fact, I felt I should be paying someone for the experience.

Some boardwalks had steps but since we were traveling light, it wasn’t too hard to carry our bikes up. Walking a bike down steps was easy if you kept one hand on the rear brake lever. If you have full paniers, steps could be a problem depending on your strength.

One downside of cycling the Camino is that you tend not to connect with people in the same way as walkers do. You go past walkers and say hello and chat a bit, but then you are on your way. And, we only saw a few other bikers. On the other hand, perhaps you have more time for personal reflection. I don’t think this detracted from the experience for us because in the evenings, we met many interesting people at pubs and restaurants and had some very interesting conversations.

Highlights

Obviously coming into Santiago de Compostela at the end was the biggest highlight, however, other great moments were as follows:

• Riding the narrow streets from the Se’ Cathedral in Porto to the river; and the beautiful paths, parks, and promenades to Matosinho. Don’t miss this section.
• The Eco Park area going north from Esposende was beautiful. Wide paths winding through pine forest and grassy dunes.
• The boardwalks coming into Ancora and the path crossing Rio Ancora were a blast. It was like an amusement park ride.
• The private ferry crossing the Minho River into Spain (7 Euros) is the way to go for a cyclist. Arrange a ride by sending Miguel a WhatsApp message at +351 913 254 110. The pickup is near the Barracuda bar. The boat drops you on the beach and you head left (West) to the Hotel El Molino. There you find a boardwalk for a pleasant ride around the peninsula and into A Guarda. This avoids riding on busy roads into A Guarda from the public ferry landing.
• I vote Baiona as the prettiest city along the route. There’s a lots to see and do here. We stayed at the Parador Baiona. The Parador and the grounds are so vast that it would take the better part of a day to explore.
• The views from the hills North of Vigo near the Ponte de Rande bridge were incredible and the paths into Redondela from there were some of the best.
• Yes, Santiago de Compostela was the ultimate. You need to stay here at least 2 days to see enough. I’m not sure but I think there is a café, pub, or restaurant every 5 feet in this city.
• Every town and city along the way had tremendous character including Vila do Conde, Povoa de Varzim, Viana do Castelo, and Camhina. At each of these, we wished we could stay a day or two to explore. But, unfortunately, our schedule was fixed.
• Loved Super Bock beer in Portugal, and Estrella Galicia beer in Spain. Didn’t like the grilled Sardines and Anchovies. Sorry.

Recommendations

1) Make sure you have a good bell on your bike. Many walkers use headphones and will not hear a quiet bell. Pass with extreme care as it’s your responsibility, as a passer, to avoid an accident.

2) Don’t miss the ride from Porto to Matosinho along the river and Atlantic coast.

3) Take the ferry across the river Limia into Viana do Castelo to avoid riding in traffic across the narrow Ponte Eiffel bridge. The ferry dock is near Restaurante Foz. You can buy a beer at a shack next to the ferry dock. Retired local men hang out there and were fun to chat with.

4) If you run out of energy or have issues with your bike, just call a cab. We had a problem on one day and it cost 25 Euros to haul us and our bikes 6 miles to the next hotel. Lesson: don’t kill yourself.

5) Be prepared for a flat tire and know how to fix it. We had one flat.

6) There is a volunteer delegation for English speakers at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago. I’m not sure who sponsors it but when you go the Pilgrim’s Office and a representative hears you speak English, they will invite you upstairs for coffee/tea and to chat about your experience. We did this and found it to be a pleasant addition to the overall experience. Anyway, take advantage of this if it’s offered.

7) Don’t forget your mask for the Pilgrims office. If you do, you can buy one across the street for 20 cents. If you are nice to them, it’s free.

8) We thought flat pedals worked best for us since we were on a lot of dirt and sandy roads. Maybe clips for someone riding faster and on more streets. Hybrid bikes worked well. Pure mountain bikes might be overkill, but would work.

9) Be mindful that in Portugal and Spain people eat later. So, opening and closing times are very different than in the USA. Many restaurants are not open Sundays and Mondays. Don’t always expect to find a café open at 7 am.

Would we do this again? What would we Change?

The answer is emphatically yes, we would do this again! We would research a better way to get from Esposende to Caminha to avoid the pathless beach and farmland areas. OK, we probably just missed the paths.

We’d bring less clothes (we were overly prepared for cold and wind).

The first 2 days combined were 72 miles. Breaking this into 3 days at roughly 24 miles per day would make this a more pleasant 7-day trip.

Restaurants of Note

• Armazém do Caffè in Leça da Palmeira across river from Matosinho (9.4 miles from start in Porto) is a good place for your 1st tea break (code for beer break if it’s afternoon).
• Restaurante Castro de São Paio, (17 miles from Porto) is a great place for a tea break or lunch. Sits on a bluff overlooking the ocean. A bit upscale. You may need reservations if it’s busy.
• Brejuinha - Feel The Nature is a restaurant West of Anha. It is in a remote area in a park-like setting. Comfortable outdoor patio. Excellent food and atmosphere.
• Between A Guarda and the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia is the restaurant Explanada do horizonte. Overlooks the ocean and is a great place for a tea break.
• O Peñasco restaurant along PO-552 just after Barcelos, and about 6 miles before Baiona. Good restaurant with a nice veranda to eat on.
• Restaurant at Parador de Baiona. Elegant, expensive, but a great experience in fine dining.
• Coffee Runners café in Vigo. Perfect place in Vigo to stop for tea break and/or lunch. Large city park across the street.
• O Cuberto is a small out of the way restaurant on the bike/pedestrian path before Caldas de Reis. Great place for a tea break. Casual, dog friendly patio area to relax. Lots of Pilgrims here.
• Cafetería Termas in Caldas de Reis. Overlooking the bridge and river. Great service and good food.
• Café Novegil is between Padron and Santiago. You’ll be in a hurry to get to Santiago and this is a quick and convenient place to stop for a tea break.

Hotels of Note

All of them were exceptional, including the Parador Baiona and Parador Pontevedra, but a special call out to Dukes Corner Guest House in Porto and Casa Antigua in Padron. The first being a small guest house in Porto of exceptional character, and the second a boutique-ish hotel in Padron. Both of these accommodations had separate sitting rooms and balconies. Both had a garden area to relax with a glass of wine. Both were exceptional values.

Thank you for this detailed report! I am actually not often ride a bike, but this post made me think to change my usual way of Camino. Going to go to Spain in September and will use your tips. Another question - why did you choose a hybrid bikes?

 

[stevewarne]

Hi Steve,
Thanks for all your information above. A group of us are cycling the camino in September - the coastal route. I have done the Frances twice, as has one other of our party, but this is the first time on the Portuguese - AND the first time on a bike. I was curious about your GPS track. I have been viewing the route on Google Maps satellite and was wondering about some of the "wooded paths" or other areas that may not be doable on a bike. There are also a couple times we get onto the N1 and the stretches I viewed don't look bike friendly. I downloaded Gaia on my phone so that may help, but do you have any other specific places we should avoid (other than what you specified about the your second day. Any way you could share the GPS track - I have a Garmin Oregon I use for both hiking and kayaking.

Sorry it took so long to reply . . .I was off on my honeymoon. Woohoo! I have attached the 6 GPX tracks, one for each day’s ride from Porto to Santiago. Except for the 2nd day, we found it all to be very doable. Even the 2nd day is fixed by going inland and following En-13 for 2.2 miles to avoid that section of beach. By wooded paths you mean boardwalks? We avoided any bike restricted boardwalks, and the ones we were on were great. Some had steps to climb, but we walked our bikes and it was not an issue. I’m not familiar with the N1, but our route purposely avoided highways or dangerous roads, and tried to use as many bike and pedestrian paths and quiet roads as possible. I think it was successful in doing that.
Note that the GPX files are our actual route, but I fixed the route on Day 2, and also, we did not actually ride from Redondela to Pontevedra. We took a taxi to avoid what we heard was a rough section of path, and allowed us to spend more time in Pontevedra. I can’t think of any other specific areas that you should avoid, but be careful in planning your route through Vigo. Our route through Vigo worked very well but it helped that it was a Sunday with little traffic.

 

[stevewarne]

Thank you for this detailed report! I am actually not often ride a bike, but this post made me think to change my usual way of Camino. Going to go to Spain in September and will use your tips. Another question - why did you choose a hybrid bikes?

Antoniu, we had a choice of bikes from Cycling-Rentals.com including mountain and road bikes. We chose hybrids because our route was not that challenging and we were primarily on maintained roads and paths. OK, there was a nasty sandy beach area above Esposende, but even a mountain bike wouldn't have helped in that spot. Our bikes had 35mm tires which worked well for any rough spots. Also, the hybrids were lighter than the mountain bikes with full or front suspensions by like 4 or 5 pounds. This helped when we had to pull them up steps on the boardwalks. I think a road bike or mountain bike would work, but the hybrid hit the sweet spot in between.

 

[ficklefancyfree]

This sounds uh-mazing! Good job, one for my wish list!

 

[JoEllen]

Sorry it took so long to reply . . .I was off on my honeymoon. Woohoo! I have attached the 6 GPX tracks, one for each day’s ride from Porto to Santiago. Except for the 2nd day, we found it all to be very doable. Even the 2nd day is fixed by going inland and following En-13 for 2.2 miles to avoid that section of beach. By wooded paths you mean boardwalks? We avoided any bike restricted boardwalks, and the ones we were on were great. Some had steps to climb, but we walked our bikes and it was not an issue. I’m not familiar with the N1, but our route purposely avoided highways or dangerous roads, and tried to use as many bike and pedestrian paths and quiet roads as possible. I think it was successful in doing that.
Note that the GPX files are our actual route, but I fixed the route on Day 2, and also, we did not actually ride from Redondela to Pontevedra. We took a taxi to avoid what we heard was a rough section of path, and allowed us to spend more time in Pontevedra. I can’t think of any other specific areas that you should avoid, but be careful in planning your route through Vigo. Our route through Vigo worked very well but it helped that it was a Sunday with little traffic.

Thank you! I will look at these soon - I also have GPX files from a couple other sources, so will compare! I really appreciate this - and CONGRATULATIONS on your wedding!

 

[OCHAR]

Thanks for all the info. I'm just starting my research for a ebike camino from Porto to SDC. I am looking at google maps street view and I see NO markers!! Yellow arrows like on the Camino Frances. Is it just me or do the markers exist? I am also having difficulty finding a MAP that shows the camino itself. I know there is a coastal and an inland route. To the original poster, is there a MAP that you can share of your route? Thanks in advance.

 

[stevewarne]

Thanks for all the info. I'm just starting my research for a ebike camino from Porto to SDC. I am looking at google maps street view and I see NO markers!! Yellow arrows like on the Camino Frances. Is it just me or do the markers exist? I am also having difficulty finding a MAP that shows the camino itself. I know there is a coastal and an inland route. To the original poster, is there a MAP that you can share of your route? Thanks in advance.

The markers are sometimes hard to find in Portugal. In Spain, they are hard to miss. There are actually two flavors of coastal routes. One is referred to as the Senda Litoral and the other as the Caminho da Costa. The first is next to the ocean whereas the latter is a bit more inland. They are close enough that most of the time you can literally see one from the other. They share a common path in some areas and come together at towns and river crossings along the way. You can easily switch between the two. Note that in Portugal, neither coastal route is “official” (or fixed) and you will see different versions for walkers vs riders.
On our trip, we had a GPX track for both coastal routes. We figured if the weather was good, we would be next to the ocean, and if it was windy/rainy we would go a bit inland. The scenery was so incredible next to the ocean, and the weather so nice, that we stuck to the Senda Litoral almost the whole way to Vigo. Note that somewhere after Vigo, there is only one route.
I don’t have an actual map, just GPX files that are attached (one file for each day of our ride). You can download a GPX reader/editor to view them.

 

[OCHAR]

@stevewarne
Thanks so much for all the info and fantastic writeup! I was able to download and view your files. Now, if we wanted to reproduce your ride (at least use your files as a guide) using these files how would you recommend us doing so? I'm not too tech savvy but...can they be loaded on a cell phone? Thanks!!

 

[stevewarne]

@stevewarne
Thanks so much for all the info and fantastic writeup! I was able to download and view your files. Now, if we wanted to reproduce your ride (at least use your files as a guide) using these files how would you recommend us doing so? I'm not too tech savvy but...can they be loaded on a cell phone? Thanks!!

I've used a lot of different apps, some being very complicated, but I think the simplest one to use is BikeGPX. You upload the tracks into a web based app using your PC. Go to bikegpx.com to do this. it's pretty self explanatory, but after your route is uploaded, it will give you a barcode. Now, to get them into your phone, download the bikegpx app on your phone, and go to Select Route. Then Add Route. Then select "Scan a GPX.com Barcode". You will now use your phone to scan the barcode shown on your PC. This somehow magically gets the GPX track into your phone. when you are ready to ride, just hit Select Route in your phone app and go. Hope I didn't over simplify this. Another app is AllTrails but this, like many other apps, has a subscription fee. BikeGPX is free. If you just want to view the files on a PC and do some editing, like changing the route so it goes to your hotel, a great app is Garmin Basecamp. Hope all this helps.

 

[OCHAR]

I've used a lot of different apps, some being very complicated, but I think the simplest one to use is BikeGPX. You upload the tracks into a web based app using your PC. Go to bikegpx.com to do this. it's pretty self explanatory, but after your route is uploaded, it will give you a barcode. Now, to get them into your phone, download the bikegpx app on your phone, and go to Select Route. Then Add Route. Then select "Scan a GPX.com Barcode". You will now use your phone to scan the barcode shown on your PC. This somehow magically gets the GPX track into your phone. when you are ready to ride, just hit Select Route in your phone app and go. Hope I didn't over simplify this. Another app is AllTrails but this, like many other apps, has a subscription fee. BikeGPX is free. If you just want to view the files on a PC and do some editing, like changing the route so it goes to your hotel, a great app is Garmin Basecamp. Hope all this helps.

Thank you again! I got it to work exactly as you indicated!
I now have to study the stops, pick hotels, distances etc. I will also look at street view when possible to get an idea of what to expect. I think for us 25- 35 kms per day is perfect to allow time to "smell the roses". Planning the trip for 2023 or 2024. Any problems with hotels accepting cyclists and having a safe storage overnight?

 

[stevewarne]

Thank you again! I got it to work exactly as you indicated!
I now have to study the stops, pick hotels, distances etc. I will also look at street view when possible to get an idea of what to expect. I think for us 25- 35 kms per day is perfect to allow time to "smell the roses". Planning the trip for 2023 or 2024. Any problems with hotels accepting cyclists and having a safe storage overnight?

We contacted each hotel after we booked them and asked if they had secure storage for bikes. Surprisingly, they all did. All the hotels were great. if you can, book a room at a Paradora. They are old castles, monasteries, etc. in Spain, converted into hotels. They were incredible. Baiona, Pontevedra, and Santiago have one. The one in Santiago is super expensive, but the others are reasonable.

 

[JoEllen]

I've used a lot of different apps, some being very complicated, but I think the simplest one to use is BikeGPX. You upload the tracks into a web based app using your PC. Go to bikegpx.com to do this. it's pretty self explanatory, but after your route is uploaded, it will give you a barcode. Now, to get them into your phone, download the bikegpx app on your phone, and go to Select Route. Then Add Route. Then select "Scan a GPX.com Barcode". You will now use your phone to scan the barcode shown on your PC. This somehow magically gets the GPX track into your phone. when you are ready to ride, just hit Select Route in your phone app and go. Hope I didn't over simplify this. Another app is AllTrails but this, like many other apps, has a subscription fee. BikeGPX is free. If you just want to view the files on a PC and do some editing, like changing the route so it goes to your hotel, a great app is Garmin Basecamp. Hope all this helps.

Hey Steve. We finished our ride of the Camino and your HPX tracks were so helpful - I can’t the l you enough for sharing. I did try Bike GPX, but I found Gaia app to be much more user friendly. When I used Bike GPX off line, I had the track, but only a grid - no map. I never got lost, but it was hard to decipher some of the turns without map detail. Gaia gave me very detailed maps even off line.

i agree with you about the boardwalks, but more than a few times we got mired in sand that covered them. The bike paths were really great but those cobblestone streets about did me in. Our bikes had no shocks so it could be pretty jarring. All in all it was a phenomenal experience and my third time into Santiago (I walked the Frances twice before). Thanks again for all your help - we’d have been lost without it!

 

[Heather R.]

Hey Steve. We finished our ride of the Camino and your HPX tracks were so helpful - I can’t the l you enough for sharing. I did try Bike GPX, but I found Gaia app to be much more user friendly. When I used Bike GPX off line, I had the track, but only a grid - no map. I never got lost, but it was hard to decipher some of the turns without map detail. Gaia gave me very detailed maps even off line.

i agree with you about the boardwalks, but more than a few times we got mired in sand that covered them. The bike paths were really great but those cobblestone streets about did me in. Our bikes had no shocks so it could be pretty jarring. All in all it was a phenomenal experience and my third time into Santiago (I walked the Frances twice before). Thanks again for all your help - we’d have been lost without it!

I just got back the other day. I found the steep descents difficult and stressful.

 

[JoEllen]

I just got back the other day. I found the steep descents difficult and stressful.

We actually starting Coimbra - which I wouldn't recommend. It was extremely hilly. We routinely ride 30-40 miles in maybe 2-3 hours....our days were more like 7-8 hours because of all the hills we had to walk the bikes up. Next time - start in Porto. There were some pretty strenuous ups and downs between Vigo and Santiago.

 

[Heather R.]

We actually starting Coimbra - which I wouldn't recommend. It was extremely hilly. We routinely ride 30-40 miles in maybe 2-3 hours....our days were more like 7-8 hours because of all the hills we had to walk the bikes up. Next time - start in Porto. There were some pretty strenuous ups and downs between Vigo and Santiago.

Oh, my goodness. Yes, you are right about the ups and downs after Vigo. Stay safe.

 

[stevewarne]

Hey Steve. We finished our ride of the Camino and your HPX tracks were so helpful - I can’t the l you enough for sharing. I did try Bike GPX, but I found Gaia app to be much more user friendly. When I used Bike GPX off line, I had the track, but only a grid - no map. I never got lost, but it was hard to decipher some of the turns without map detail. Gaia gave me very detailed maps even off line.

i agree with you about the boardwalks, but more than a few times we got mired in sand that covered them. The bike paths were really great but those cobblestone streets about did me in. Our bikes had no shocks so it could be pretty jarring. All in all it was a phenomenal experience and my third time into Santiago (I walked the Frances twice before). Thanks again for all your help - we’d have been lost without it!

I'll check out Gaia, since my AllTrails subscription just expired. We found one spot, I think near Ancora, where the sand was about 6 feet over the top of the boardwalk. It was a real chore to drag the bikes through. I'm glad it all worked out for you. I'm thinking about doing it again except a slightly different path going though Tui, and doing the Spiritual route from Pontevedra. To be honest, I would just like to move to Portugal because I loved everything about it-- the weather, the people. I live in upstate New York, so just about everywhere in the world has better weather and nicer people (sorry New Yorkers)

 

[JoEllen]

I'll check out Gaia, since my AllTrails subscription just expired. We found one spot, I think near Ancora, where the sand was about 6 feet over the top of the boardwalk. It was a real chore to drag the bikes through. I'm glad it all worked out for you. I'm thinking about doing it again except a slightly different path going though Tui, and doing the Spiritual route from Pontevedra. To be honest, I would just like to move to Portugal because I loved everything about it-- the weather, the people. I live in upstate New York, so just about everywhere in the world has better weather and nicer people (sorry New Yorkers)

We had a tour in Porto before we left. Tour guide had lived in the US for a while and his wife is from California. He talked about how many ex-pat Americans there are in Portugal. Apparently, the government is tightening rules for getting a "Golden Visa", so it's harder. I feel the same way about Spain.....I could move there tomorrow.

 

[craigmoore]

Hi,

a few comments to add to Steve's post, as my wife and I completed the Coastal from Porto to SDC, in late October. My wife and I are 62. I'm a bit more experienced than my wife and on a road bike during the season and Zwift (2-3x / week ) in the off season. My wife rides a Hybrid, primarily on Rail Trails during the outdoor season here in Eastern Canada. Our pre-trip training rides were primarily Rail trail for 3 months or so, 2-3 x week, from 30 to 60K. Our longest Camino day was 70K. We had rain, or the threat of rain almost every day which affected daily planning and usually the length of "our day" which ranged from 4 to 6 hrs in the saddle.

For the camino, we used BMC 29'er Mountain bikes (MTB), shipped to us in Porto, from "Cycling the Camino" (cyclingthecamino.com) - who we'd recommend. This was our first extended trip with MTB's and these were good quality. The two bikes for 6 days, shipping, 1 set of panniers, helmets, flat and maintenance kit, etc for about 500E. The BMC's were heavy - I think 29 lbs - but were excellent handling, shifting, brakes etc. There were a few steep and/or cobbly sections where we had to get off and push the bikes.... with a lighter hybrid you may not have had to. However, there were also several sections I was able to ride through (muck, standing water, sand) that I would not have been able to ride with a hybrid.

1. Steve, your files -and the route you constructed - were invaluable to us. We used the BikeGPX app on my phone and mounted it on my handle bars. Can't tell u how many times I thanked you in my head thinking... man I would have made so many navigating mistakes without these! So, thanks again.

If you are mounting your phone on handlebars for navigating, bring a rain cover. also consider having a small phone charger battery on hand, in case you start to lose power during your ride.

2. Makes sure you feel comfortable changing flats on MTB disc brakes (if you rent one). Also, if you are renting, request that your tubes are the "re-sealable" ones in case they do puncture . Also, request - or purchase yourself - a Co2 tire inflator system and "practice" once if you have never used them. Although Ive changed flats many times, Ive never on a MTB rear wheel w/ discs and they can be finicky. We flatted "twice" within our first 20km out of Porto which was a wake up call. The small hand pump provided "snapped" the valve to add to the stress.

3. Stay as light as possible in your paniers. For the first three days, I brought extras (clothing, food etc) that in hind site were not required. Once we got into the hills outside of Vigo, I stripped out a few non essentials and sent a pannier full along with our carry on suitcase with Caminoifacil, our luggage transfer service. Reducing the weight by about 7 lbs made a noticeable difference.

4. After October 15, note that when crossing the river from Caminha into Spain, the service to cross the river does not operate from the location near Bar Baracuda. We found an alternative that we booked the day before called Xacobeo Transfer. https://xacobeotransfer.com/en/home/. DO NOT confuse Xacobeo with the larger ferry docked nearby, which we did, temporarily. The ferry is frequently delayed when tides are not favourable. Xacobeo is a small boat - only 6 E each - and leaves on schedule. Here is a link showing the location of Xacobeo pick-up vs the larger ferry. https://goo.gl/maps/aqqKgWGiKfsYxFTa9.

5. If you are booking accommodations in advance, try to book in as central a location in the village/town u are staying in as possible. On a few occasions, we booked more rural hotels 1-2 k from centro. After a long day in the saddle - and wanting a break from it - I would have preferred to avoid the 2-4 k walk for dinner out.

6. Pack a small tube of saddle sore cream and if you sense a need, apply immediately.

7. To shorten our last day of riding into SDC, we decided to spend the night about 25 K away, outside any town. We stayed at "As Chivas" only about 2 k from the Camino, without checking the "elevation" change from the Camino to the hotel. It was a significant climb of about 20 minutes for us that we did not need after a 65k day.

8. Note, we heard from locals that if you have nice sunny weather be prepared for a headwind, while if you have narly, rainy weather chances are you will have a tail wind. So, be careful what you wish for!

We had a great camino, and the coastal landscapes and towns you travel through are beautiful. We loved the small towns we stayed in, and agree with Steve that Baiona is particularly beautiful and not to be missed. The camino is challenging, but we had a great sense of accomplishment at the end, and really enjoyed our time.

 

[JoEllen]

Just a note on your #4 above, according to Julio (owner/operator of Xacobeo Transfer), the large ferry has been suspended permanently due to the shallow waters in the river. He told us that the river needs to be dredged and there has been no move to fund it or plan it. So, do not plan on using the regular ferry. When we were there in September, we had a party of 8 that all arrived at the river at different times. Some went with Julio, but the others had no trouble finding mariners who would happily take them across.

 

[stevewarne]

craigmoore---great post! And, with lots of good information that will undoubtedly help others doing this ride. I made some of the same mistakes you mentioned like carrying too much clothes. I'm very happy the GPX files worked for you. Do you have any suggested changes? I was not completely satisfied with the track from Esposende to Viana do Castelo (between Marinhas and Mar) since it takes you a short distance on the N-13 highway. To my knowledge, there isn't a good alternative along the ocean in this area suitable for bikes. Anyway, I hope others read your post and are encouraged to do this ride because it really is one of the best.

 

[craigmoore]

craigmoore---great post! And, with lots of good information that will undoubtedly help others doing this ride. I made some of the same mistakes you mentioned like carrying too much clothes. I'm very happy the GPX files worked for you. Do you have any suggested changes? I was not completely satisfied with the track from Esposende to Viana do Castelo (between Marinhas and Mar) since it takes you a short distance on the N-13 highway. To my knowledge, there isn't a good alternative along the ocean in this area suitable for bikes. Anyway, I hope others read your post and are encouraged to do this ride because it really is one of the best.

Thanks Steve, no real suggestions thatI picked up on route changes. Like I said it was great! The only area that was a little dicey - for about 15 minutes - was coming through the forestry section to the edge of the river in Caminha. A lot of the track was flooded with 6" to 12" of standing water. I assume it was caused primarily by a big storm that had blown through days earlier. (I suspect that is not the norm.)Also, a bunch of dumping that had taken place on the trail...had to keep an eye out for glass. Cheers

 

[Skinnybiker]

Could have been spring tides, it happened to me at Viano do Castelo last year riding the riverside trail to Ponte de Lima, not many gpx routes will guide you around flood waters unfortunately. However I do wonder why some people need to follow a previous route, what's wrong with forging your own path? Only asking as they say.

 

[JoEllen]

Hey Steve.....I've posted to you a few times. We did the trip by bike last year using your GPX files (I recommended that you check out Gaia, if you happen to recall). I have a loose agenda but I'm trying to see about places others have stayed where there is secure bike storage. I remember from your initial post that you had not trouble finding that on your itinerary. Could you possibly share the overnight stops you made and the hotels/hostals/albergues you stayed in? I have the challenging task of trying to plan for a group of 8 and it would be so helpful. Many thanks!

 

[stevewarne]

Hey Steve.....I've posted to you a few times. We did the trip by bike last year using your GPX files (I recommended that you check out Gaia, if you happen to recall). I have a loose agenda but I'm trying to see about places others have stayed where there is secure bike storage. I remember from your initial post that you had not trouble finding that on your itinerary. Could you possibly share the overnight stops you made and the hotels/hostals/albergues you stayed in? I have the challenging task of trying to plan for a group of 8 and it would be so helpful. Many thanks!

I’m a bit jealous that you are doing this trip again. Only an hour ago I had a conversation with my wife, Cheri, where we agreed to go back and do it again. I saw another post of yours where you were going to do the trip in 8 days. We think that is an excellent idea. 8 days from Porto to Santiago is just right to give time to relax and explore the towns along the way.

Below are the hotels we stayed at. They were all excellent, especially the Paradors. We contacted each one before the trip and they all committed to having secure storage areas for bikes.

Dukes Corner Guest House – Porto (highly recommended)
Hotel Suave Mar - Esposende
Hotel Porto Do Sol - Caminha
Parador de Baiona - Baiona
Parador de Pontevedra - Pontevedra
Casa Antigua - Padron
Carris Casa de la Troya - Santiago

I saw from your other post that you were planning to stay in Povoa de Varzim, Viana do Castelo, and Caldas de Reis. I would greatly appreciate any recommendations on where to stay in those towns because if we do this trip again we will likely follow your itineray. Now don’t be surprised when I say this, but we’re also thinking about doing this as a train trip from town to town (i.e, no bikes, no hiking). I don’t think it will be as fun as biking/hiking, but Cheri is trying to convince me that every trip doesn’t have to be a physical challenge. I'm not completely convinced.

 

[JoEllen]

I’m a bit jealous that you are doing this trip again. Only an hour ago I had a conversation with my wife, Cheri, where we agreed to go back and do it again. I saw another post of yours where you were going to do the trip in 8 days. We think that is an excellent idea. 8 days from Porto to Santiago is just right to give time to relax and explore the towns along the way.

Below are the hotels we stayed at. They were all excellent, especially the Paradors. We contacted each one before the trip and they all committed to having secure storage areas for bikes.

Dukes Corner Guest House – Porto (highly recommended)
Hotel Suave Mar - Esposende
Hotel Porto Do Sol - Caminha
Parador de Baiona - Baiona
Parador de Pontevedra - Pontevedra
Casa Antigua - Padron
Carris Casa de la Troya - Santiago

I saw from your other post that you were planning to stay in Povoa de Varzim, Viana do Castelo, and Caldas de Reis. I would greatly appreciate any recommendations on where to stay in those towns because if we do this trip again we will likely follow your itineray. Now don’t be surprised when I say this, but we’re also thinking about doing this as a train trip from town to town (i.e, no bikes, no hiking). I don’t think it will be as fun as biking/hiking, but Cheri is trying to convince me that every trip doesn’t have to be a physical challenge. I'm not completely convinced.

Thanks, Steve! Povoa de Varzim is a bit up in the air as there isn't a ton of choices there, but I'm going to contact the few hotels and see about bike storage. We may opt to ride to Esponsende - we had wished we stopped there last trip. We did stay in Viana do Castelo last trip and loved the town. We saw nothing of it however, and are doing a down day there this trip. We stayed at Hotel Laranjeira. They have a covered garage attached to the hotel for bike storage that closes up each night. The rooms are nice - more on the modern side and each had a balcony. The staff was amazing, has a little bar on the main floor where the breakfast is served in the morning. We likely will stay there again. We also stayed at the Parador in Baiona.....silly me, I didn't see there was a Parador in Pontevedra!! We aren't going until early September, though. If you two are doing it in May, I won't be much help. I will post when we return regardless. Buen Camino....and thanks for all you help, insight, and information!!

 

[Lencho]

Hi,

a few comments to add to Steve's post, as my wife and I completed the Coastal from Porto to SDC, in late October. My wife and I are 62. I'm a bit more experienced than my wife and on a road bike during the season and Zwift (2-3x / week ) in the off season. My wife rides a Hybrid, primarily on Rail Trails during the outdoor season here in Eastern Canada. Our pre-trip training rides were primarily Rail trail for 3 months or so, 2-3 x week, from 30 to 60K. Our longest Camino day was 70K. We had rain, or the threat of rain almost every day which affected daily planning and usually the length of "our day" which ranged from 4 to 6 hrs in the saddle.

For the camino, we used BMC 29'er Mountain bikes (MTB), shipped to us in Porto, from "Cycling the Camino" (cyclingthecamino.com) - who we'd recommend. This was our first extended trip with MTB's and these were good quality. The two bikes for 6 days, shipping, 1 set of panniers, helmets, flat and maintenance kit, etc for about 500E. The BMC's were heavy - I think 29 lbs - but were excellent handling, shifting, brakes etc. There were a few steep and/or cobbly sections where we had to get off and push the bikes.... with a lighter hybrid you may not have had to. However, there were also several sections I was able to ride through (muck, standing water, sand) that I would not have been able to ride with a hybrid.

1. Steve, your files -and the route you constructed - were invaluable to us. We used the BikeGPX app on my phone and mounted it on my handle bars. Can't tell u how many times I thanked you in my head thinking... man I would have made so many navigating mistakes without these! So, thanks again.

If you are mounting your phone on handlebars for navigating, bring a rain cover. also consider having a small phone charger battery on hand, in case you start to lose power during your ride.

2. Makes sure you feel comfortable changing flats on MTB disc brakes (if you rent one). Also, if you are renting, request that your tubes are the "re-sealable" ones in case they do puncture . Also, request - or purchase yourself - a Co2 tire inflator system and "practice" once if you have never used them. Although Ive changed flats many times, Ive never on a MTB rear wheel w/ discs and they can be finicky. We flatted "twice" within our first 20km out of Porto which was a wake up call. The small hand pump provided "snapped" the valve to add to the stress.

3. Stay as light as possible in your paniers. For the first three days, I brought extras (clothing, food etc) that in hind site were not required. Once we got into the hills outside of Vigo, I stripped out a few non essentials and sent a pannier full along with our carry on suitcase with Caminoifacil, our luggage transfer service. Reducing the weight by about 7 lbs made a noticeable difference.

4. After October 15, note that when crossing the river from Caminha into Spain, the service to cross the river does not operate from the location near Bar Baracuda. We found an alternative that we booked the day before called Xacobeo Transfer. https://xacobeotransfer.com/en/home/. DO NOT confuse Xacobeo with the larger ferry docked nearby, which we did, temporarily. The ferry is frequently delayed when tides are not favourable. Xacobeo is a small boat - only 6 E each - and leaves on schedule. Here is a link showing the location of Xacobeo pick-up vs the larger ferry. https://goo.gl/maps/aqqKgWGiKfsYxFTa9.

5. If you are booking accommodations in advance, try to book in as central a location in the village/town u are staying in as possible. On a few occasions, we booked more rural hotels 1-2 k from centro. After a long day in the saddle - and wanting a break from it - I would have preferred to avoid the 2-4 k walk for dinner out.

6. Pack a small tube of saddle sore cream and if you sense a need, apply immediately.

7. To shorten our last day of riding into SDC, we decided to spend the night about 25 K away, outside any town. We stayed at "As Chivas" only about 2 k from the Camino, without checking the "elevation" change from the Camino to the hotel. It was a significant climb of about 20 minutes for us that we did not need after a 65k day.

8. Note, we heard from locals that if you have nice sunny weather be prepared for a headwind, while if you have narly, rainy weather chances are you will have a tail wind. So, be careful what you wish for!

We had a great camino, and the coastal landscapes and towns you travel through are beautiful. We loved the small towns we stayed in, and agree with Steve that Baiona is particularly beautiful and not to be missed. The camino is challenging, but we had a great sense of accomplishment at the end, and really enjoyed our time.

Thanks for the report. I hope to bike the litoral in 2023 so I find your references and commentary super helpful. I especially appreciate the info re bike rental services and type of bikes most suited for the camino portugues.

 

[MDBikingCaminoPortugues]

I've used a lot of different apps, some being very complicated, but I think the simplest one to use is BikeGPX. You upload the tracks into a web based app using your PC. Go to bikegpx.com to do this. it's pretty self explanatory, but after your route is uploaded, it will give you a barcode. Now, to get them into your phone, download the bikegpx app on your phone, and go to Select Route. Then Add Route. Then select "Scan a GPX.com Barcode". You will now use your phone to scan the barcode shown on your PC. This somehow magically gets the GPX track into your phone. when you are ready to ride, just hit Select Route in your phone app and go. Hope I didn't over simplify this. Another app is AllTrails but this, like many other apps, has a subscription fee. BikeGPX is free. If you just want to view the files on a PC and do some editing, like changing the route so it goes to your hotel, a great app is Garmin Basecamp. Hope all this helps.

I appreciate your write up as it gives me a lot of information on biking the Camino Portuguese Coastal route. I want to use your GPX files in my AllTrails app but not sure how to go about uploading them. Thanks in advance for your instructions.

 

[Flatlander]

I appreciate your write up as it gives me a lot of information on biking the Camino Portuguese Coastal route. I want to use your GPX files in my AllTrails app but not sure how to go about uploading them. Thanks in advance for your instructions.

You may want to consider https://cycle.travel/map It is a dedicated bicycle route planner and I have found it to be excellent. It has the facility to upload gpx tracks. Also available as an iPhone app.

 

[MDBikingCaminoPortugues]

I appreciate your write up as it gives me a lot of information on biking the Camino Portuguese Coastal route. I want to use your GPX files in my AllTrails app but not sure how to go about uploading them. Thanks in advance for your instructions.

Steve, thanks again for your detailed instructions on using your GPX files. Can’t wait to ride my first Camino and I know it won’t be my last!

 

[MDBikingCaminoPortugues]

You may want to consider https://cycle.travel/map It is a dedicated bicycle route planner and I have found it to be excellent. It has the facility to upload gpx tracks. Also available as an iPhone app.

I’ve downloaded the app you mentioned and am trying to learn how to navigate the app. Thanks so much for your input.

 

[Flatlander]

I’ve downloaded the app you mentioned and am trying to learn how to navigate the app. Thanks so much for your input.

I know nothing of the app but I'd suggest getting familiar with it on the website version utilising a big screen. It is very clever and there is access to a help forum to answer questions.

If you're new to bike touring you might want to check out CrazyGuyOnABike - a depository of thousands of journals of bike journeys.
This is the Portuguese "locale": https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/locales/?locale_id=172&doctype=journal
There is also an incredibly useful "Map" page where you can see where other people have been and jump right into their journal. https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/maps/?o=3d2

Just stay away from the forums on the site.

 

[MDBikingCaminoPortugues]

I appreciate your write up as it gives me a lot of information on biking the Camino Portuguese Coastal route. I want to use your GPX files in my AllTrails app but not sure how to go about uploading them. Thanks in advance for your instructions.

Hi Steve, what would be the best tools to explore the highlights on the bike along the routes and in each city at the end of the day from Porto to Santiago de Compostela?

 

[stevewarne]

Steve, thanks again for your detailed instructions on using your GPX files. Can’t wait to ride my first Camino and I know it won’t be my last!

Hello MDBiking. I hope the GPX files work well for you. I'm sure you'll have a blast on this trip. I'm currently in Italy on a hike, but if you have issues uploading them to Alltrails, I can help when I return next week. I also use Alltrails. As far as exploring the highlights along the way, I'll be honest, we didn't do this justice since we were so tired at the end of each day. That's why we want to do it again but next time spend 2 nights in several towns along the way. You could try the Buen Camino de Santiago App. It has some useful information

 

[MDBikingCaminoPortugues]

Hello MDBiking. I hope the GPX files work well for you. I'm sure you'll have a blast on this trip. I'm currently in Italy on a hike, but if you have issues uploading them to Alltrails, I can help when I return next week. I also use Alltrails. As far as exploring the highlights along the way, I'll be honest, we didn't do this justice since we were so tired at the end of each day. That's why we want to do it again but next time spend 2 nights in several towns along the way. You could try the Buen Camino de Santiago App. It has some useful information

Steve, I’ve found good information on Buen Camino De Santiago App. Thanks to you. I’m subscribed to AllTrails but having a challenge uploading them to the app. Will need your help when you return from your trip. In the meantime, Happy Trail in Italy!

 

[stevewarne]

Steve, I’ve found good information on Buen Camino De Santiago App. Thanks to you. I’m subscribed to AllTrails but having a challenge uploading them to the app. Will need your help when you return from your trip. In the meantime, Happy Trail in Italy!

I've created a map in Alltrails for the Porto to Santiago cycle route. It has the 6 gpx tracks and some possibly useful waypoints. Go to https://www.alltrails.com/explore/map/map-ba036d2--62?u=i&sh=f6w1eo.

 

[cyclingleo]

Hello MDBiking. I hope the GPX files work well for you. I'm sure you'll have a blast on this trip. I'm currently in Italy on a hike, but if you have issues uploading them to Alltrails, I can help when I return next week. I also use Alltrails. As far as exploring the highlights along the way, I'll be honest, we didn't do this justice since we were so tired at the end of each day. That's why we want to do it again but next time spend 2 nights in several towns along the way. You could try the Buen Camino de Santiago App. It has some useful information

Hi Steve, We contemplate to cycle from Porto to SdC in August with e-Bikes. Can you tell me a bit more of the surface of the cycling roads/paths. In addition I would like to know how you travelled back from SdC with your bike. thx Leo

 

[Corned Beef]

I would like to know how you travelled back from SdC with your bike.

Are you sending it back to the Netherlands? If so, you can mail it from the Correos office just down from the Cathedral. Takes 2 - 4 days.

Paq Bicicleta de Correos - Transporte de biciletas en el camino.

Si quieres que el Camino de Santiago vaya sobre ruedas, en Correos nos encargamos de tu bicicleta. Solo te tendrás que preocupar de pedalear.

www.correos.es

 

[stevewarne]

Hi Steve, We contemplate to cycle from Porto to SdC in August with e-Bikes. Can you tell me a bit more of the surface of the cycling roads/paths. In addition I would like to know how you travelled back from SdC with your bike. thx Leo

Wow, e-Bikes! That should be a lot of fun. Leaving Porto, it's mostly paved promenades, boardwalks, and coastal roads. After Esposende you transition to a mix of paved paths, cobblestones, some sandy/gravel roads, and a few dirt paths. If you have at least 35mm tires, all of it should be OK for you. After Esposende, avoid going along the sandy beaches with e-bikes as you'll end up dragging them through mounds of sand. Instead go onto the N-13 near Mar and then back toward the coast at Santo Amaro. You'll hit some difficult hilly/rocky terrain just after Redondela and on the final leg into SdC but they are short distance and manageable (i.e., dismount, walk, take breaks).

We rented our bikes, so we just left them at the hotel in SdC. The rental company picked them up and we took the train to Madrid to finish our trip. Hope this helps.

 

[OCHAR]

Hello Again.
I appreciate all the great input in this topic (and will re-read it again I assure you!).
As mentioned above, my wife and I plan on renting ebikes and ride from Porto to SDC in May of 2024. It is not our first biking Camino but it would be the first Portuguese. I am convinced (in general terms) as mentioned above, that many hotels can accommodate bikes in a secure manner.

I have several concerns:
There seems to be quite a bit of the Camino on "Main Roads". I don't like biking on busy streets where there are no dedicated bike lanes. Am I just over reacting?

Also, going through Vigo seems like a combination of a Maze and a nightmare.
Has anyone tried, rather than following the river in Vigo, the dedicated bike lane ( the Carril-bici) that starts roughly at the "Ave de Castelao", up "Ave das Camelias", along "Rua de Venezuela", up "Rua de Pizarro" and then joining the pedestrian "Rua Urzaiz" mentioned in Stevewarne's excellent "AllTrails" map?

Finally, there seems to be a scarcity of Camino Yellow Arrows and therefore cannot fully depend on them to guide us to SDC. As a result I would need a fantastic free app on my phone. I am looking at the ridewithgps app. Are there any recommendations?

I thank you all in advance!!!!

 

[stevewarne]

Just a comment on cycling through Vigo. I was worried about the busy roads and spent a huge amount of time looking at different route options. It turned out that since we went through on a Sunday, the traffic was minimal. And, following the 3.6 mile path along the Rio Lagare (ref: Sendeiro do Lagares and Paseo do Lagares) was a joy. Mostly traffic free and very scenic. Leaving the river and going back on the streets was uneventful. We chose quiet side streets that had almost no traffic. It was a bit like a maze, but GPS solves that problem.

I downloaded the GPX track for the Carril-bici and looked at some Google Street-view photos. I thought it looked like a good alternative, but you would still be side-by-side with traffic in some areas and if you go weekdays or during rush hour, it could be a bit unnerving.

As far as being on main roads, my wife and I are also averse to busy streets, but our senda litoral route had us feeing safe the entire way. Maybe going early season in May contributed to that. Hope this helps.

 

[hikermomma04]

Hi Heather
NOTE due to my knees we used Pedal assist ebikes in Eco mode. (An opinion from another reader age 65 - my wife and I did a 350 mile trip last summer and averaged 30 miles per day. We trained for two and a half months riding 3 or 4 days per week and other body weight exercises and walks on other days. Since we were going to packing our own gear during the real ride we did train with weighted bags. Our practice rides started at 10 to 12 miles and we built up to 25 miles. We practiced on some hills so we would be prepared for those as well. Loaded our bikes were a total of 70 pounds so in Eco power hills were tough. Long story short we were totally ready. At the end of the ride we really were glad we put in the work and honestly we were bummed we were done. Honestly we could have done it again. We took our time on the ride and had extra energy to do side trips as well. Just put in the work and you will enjoy it more. I can’t speak for non Ebikes. Hope this is somewhat helpful.

Hi, did you rent your bikes? And if so, who did you rent from? Thanks

 

[hikermomma04]

I've created a map in Alltrails for the Porto to Santiago cycle route. It has the 6 gpx tracks and some possibly useful waypoints. Go to https://www.alltrails.com/explore/map/map-ba036d2--62?u=i&sh=f6w1eo.

THank you so much!!!

 

[stevewarne]

Hi, did you rent your bikes? And if so, who did you rent from? Thanks

We rented from cycling-rentals.com. They dropped the bikes off at our hotel in Porto, and picked them up at our hotel in SdC. The bikes were excellent. A very good company to deal with.

 

[JoEllen]

I second that opinion about cycling-rentals.com. We did not use them last year, but did for our September 2023 trip. Wow, what a difference….great service, great communication! So far, outstanding.

 

[JanieB]

Thank you for your tips. I hope I'm not making a mistake trying it with a regular bike. If I have to, I will walk my bike up the hills.

Hi Heather. I'm 65 and rode from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela on my folding Bike Friday carrying my gear. I loved it. Sometimes I'd get off and walk, chatting to Pilgrim walkers or just because the hill was steep (and then chatting to a Pilgrim makes it a better excuse). I loved each day.. https://connectingcheerfully.com/20...rims-statistics-cycling-the-camino-portugues/

 

[JoEllen]

Thanks, Heather. We did Coimbra to Santiago last year on mountain bikes. Unfortunately, we didn't allow enough time and had days that were way too long. This year, we opted for shorter mileage and having some down days in a couple of towns. We enjoyed last year, even though some of the terrain between Coimbra and Porto was quite challenging, but we are super excited about this year's trip.

 

[craigmoore]

I’m a bit jealous that you are doing this trip again. Only an hour ago I had a conversation with my wife, Cheri, where we agreed to go back and do it again. I saw another post of yours where you were going to do the trip in 8 days. We think that is an excellent idea. 8 days from Porto to Santiago is just right to give time to relax and explore the towns along the way.

Below are the hotels we stayed at. They were all excellent, especially the Paradors. We contacted each one before the trip and they all committed to having secure storage areas for bikes.

Dukes Corner Guest House – Porto (highly recommended)
Hotel Suave Mar - Esposende
Hotel Porto Do Sol - Caminha
Parador de Baiona - Baiona
Parador de Pontevedra - Pontevedra
Casa Antigua - Padron
Carris Casa de la Troya - Santiago

I saw from your other post that you were planning to stay in Povoa de Varzim, Viana do Castelo, and Caldas de Reis. I would greatly appreciate any recommendations on where to stay in those towns because if we do this trip again we will likely follow your itineray. Now don’t be surprised when I say this, but we’re also thinking about doing this as a train trip from town to town (i.e, no bikes, no hiking). I don’t think it will be as fun as biking/hiking, but Cheri is trying to convince me that every trip doesn’t have to be a physical challenge. I'm not completely convinced.

Hi Steve,

My understanding is that the Coastal is the easiest of the Camino routes. We are looking to do another 5-8 day ride on a different route to Santiago in the next year. Any suggestions/advice which would be the next easiest to begin researching?

Thanks

 

[stevewarne]

I can't really say the Coastal was the easiest Camino route, but it was relatively easy for a mid-to-late 60's couple. To be honest, I don't have experience on other routes so I'm not sure I can help you. Currently, I'm planning a trip on the Fisherman's Trail in Portugal and the Magna Via Francigena in Sicily in 2025. And tomorrow, my wife and I are heading to Turkey to hike part of the Lycian Way (just a 2 day hike near Fethiye). These are all relatively easy, but only the Magna Via Francigena is a Camino. There is tons of information on this forum to explore different Caminos, so please take advantage of this incredible resource. And, let me know if you have any other questions that you think I can help you with. There is nothing I enjoy more than sharing the information I have and also learning from the adventures of other people.

 

[craigmoore]

I can't really say the Coastal was the easiest Camino route, but it was relatively easy for a mid-to-late 60's couple. To be honest, I don't have experience on other routes so I'm not sure I can help you. Currently, I'm planning a trip on the Fisherman's Trail in Portugal and the Magna Via Francigena in Sicily in 2025. And tomorrow, my wife and I are heading to Turkey to hike part of the Lycian Way (just a 2 day hike near Fethiye). These are all relatively easy, but only the Magna Via Francigena is a Camino. There is tons of information on this forum to explore different Caminos, so please take advantage of this incredible resource. And, let me know if you have any other questions that you think I can help you with. There is nothing I enjoy more than sharing the information I have and also learning from the adventures of other people.

Steve, just re-visiting this post. We are also considering the Fishermans Trail for Spring 2024. Have you found any good on line sources for downloadable GPX files for the bike route? Thanks

 

[stevewarne]

craigmoore, I attached GPX files for my planned trip on the Fisherman's trail, but I made the decision to hike instead of bike the trail. I wasn't comfortable with the terrain to do it as a bike trip. My files start at stage 4 in Porto Covo and go to stage 15 in Lagos. You'll see from the files that I skip a few stages. Specifically, stage 6 Almograve to Zambujeira, 9 & 10 Aljezur to Carrapateira, and 13 Sagres to Salema. I do the skipping so I can stay a few days in Lagos at the end. If I was biking this, I'd look for some alternate paths that don't have as many ups and downs from cliffs to beaches, but that's just me. Even though I'm ready to go on this trip, I've delayed it for a tour through the Baltics in November (I know, it's gonna be cold). The Fisherman's trail has to wait until May, and Sicily in September 25. Let me know if any questions on the files. When you open it, it should be 15 separate files.

 

[craigmoore]

Awesome.... just seeing this. Thanks Steve. Heading to the Balkans in a month... day riding mosty where we can in Durmitor area in Albania and a bit in Korcula. Enjoy Sicily!