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For Days 1-23 of @David Tallan’s 2023 Camino (Camino de Madrid to Sahagún, then Sahagún to León on the Francés) read this thread.
Day 24: León to La Robla (San Salvador Day 1)
31.5 km +2 walking around town
Got up at a usual Camino hour and was out if the hotel at 6ish. There was a stream of Pilgrims on the street, because the albergue is on the Camino Frances, and 6ish is a popular time for pilgrims to hit the road. I joined the flow until we reached the parador where the San Salvador splits off. I figured I would proceed on my own while everyone else went on the Frances, but lo and behold, two Spanish pilgrims split off we me and we set off together.
I was using Ender's Guide and tracks but the route was well marked and the fellow seemed to be checking the tracks on his phone pretty often so I didn't bother with my phone all that much. We took the river route out of Leon so it was pretty nice walking, not industrial suburbs like the way into Leon.
After we had been walking by the river for a while, the arrows and my companions GPS took us away from the river and into the suburb of Carbajal de la Legua. This is where the difference in GPS tracks comes in. My companions were using the Gronze tracks and I was using the Ender tracks. Had I been paying more attention, we could have walked along the river for another half hour or so instead of through suburban streets.
After Carbajal, you leave the paved road behind and walk about 10 km up and down hills through forests. It is very pretty. There was a mirador (viewpoint) where we stopped for a rest and a bite to eat (chocolate for me, sandwiches for them). I was shocked to see three or four pilgrims walk by in the few minutes while we were resting. I had thought thus was a little travelled route, like the Madrid. Apparently, it gets significantly more traffic. Along the way through the woods there were a couple of pilgrim "mailboxes" with some first aid supplies and a book to write in. I stamped them.
After the woods and hills, there were a couple of villages we passed through, and one between them that we passed by (we could have crossed the bridge to enter the village, and visit the bar, which might have been open, but we just continued on the Camino. We passed through Cabanillas and Cascante, and rested in each, but there were no bars open for a coffee or a snack. In fact, the same had been true for Carbajal.
Whole had been walking with them more at the beginning, they tended to lag further and further behind me as the day wore on. I would wait after a while until they were in sight again or until they caught up if we were at a decision point, and then continue on, giving them their space. At the entry to La Robla there is a church. I waited a bit and then, when I didn't see them, went down quickly to see it it was open (it wasn't) and then back up. I waited a while after that but they never appeared. I figured maybe they had passed me while I was checking on the church, so I went on to the albergue at the other end of town.
The albergue was open and there was a sign on the door saying that the hospitalera would be by at 6:00 (actually, she came closer to 5:00). There were backpacks and signs that bunks had been claimed, but no one was about. I claimed a bunk and headed into town to get something to eat. Once again, Google lied about what was available and open, but a local steered me to a bar that had platos combinados (combination plates, like a cheaper, simpler version of the daily menu all on one plate - mine was chicken, eggs, and fries). While I was at the restaurant, I reserved a bed and a meal for tomorrow at the Posada el Embrujo in Poladura de la Tercia (they have a €15 pilgrim rate for pilgrims in hostel style rooms with two beds). After that, I went to a supermarket to get some food supplies to get me through to supper tomorrow.
Then it was back to the albergue for a shower and laundry. It was late when the laundry was done so I hope it dries. It is quite windy but in the shade. Then lying down for a rest which brings us to the present.
The pilgrims I walked with don't seem to have checked into this albergue. I hope they have somewhere else to stay (maybe a double room) and are all right. I'm a bit worried by how they just disappeared.
Photos below:
- First marker on the San Salvador, by the parador
- Looking back at the suburbs of Leon
- There were many of these little religious shrines ticked into trees as we walked through the woods today
- View from the mirador
- Walking through the woods
- Buen Camino, peregrino (Cabanillas)
For Days 1-23 of @David Tallan’s 2023 Camino (Camino de Madrid to Sahagún, then Sahagún to León on the Francés) read this thread.
Day 24: León to La Robla (San Salvador Day 1)
31.5 km +2 walking around town
Got up at a usual Camino hour and was out if the hotel at 6ish. There was a stream of Pilgrims on the street, because the albergue is on the Camino Frances, and 6ish is a popular time for pilgrims to hit the road. I joined the flow until we reached the parador where the San Salvador splits off. I figured I would proceed on my own while everyone else went on the Frances, but lo and behold, two Spanish pilgrims split off we me and we set off together.
I was using Ender's Guide and tracks but the route was well marked and the fellow seemed to be checking the tracks on his phone pretty often so I didn't bother with my phone all that much. We took the river route out of Leon so it was pretty nice walking, not industrial suburbs like the way into Leon.
After we had been walking by the river for a while, the arrows and my companions GPS took us away from the river and into the suburb of Carbajal de la Legua. This is where the difference in GPS tracks comes in. My companions were using the Gronze tracks and I was using the Ender tracks. Had I been paying more attention, we could have walked along the river for another half hour or so instead of through suburban streets.
After Carbajal, you leave the paved road behind and walk about 10 km up and down hills through forests. It is very pretty. There was a mirador (viewpoint) where we stopped for a rest and a bite to eat (chocolate for me, sandwiches for them). I was shocked to see three or four pilgrims walk by in the few minutes while we were resting. I had thought thus was a little travelled route, like the Madrid. Apparently, it gets significantly more traffic. Along the way through the woods there were a couple of pilgrim "mailboxes" with some first aid supplies and a book to write in. I stamped them.
After the woods and hills, there were a couple of villages we passed through, and one between them that we passed by (we could have crossed the bridge to enter the village, and visit the bar, which might have been open, but we just continued on the Camino. We passed through Cabanillas and Cascante, and rested in each, but there were no bars open for a coffee or a snack. In fact, the same had been true for Carbajal.
Whole had been walking with them more at the beginning, they tended to lag further and further behind me as the day wore on. I would wait after a while until they were in sight again or until they caught up if we were at a decision point, and then continue on, giving them their space. At the entry to La Robla there is a church. I waited a bit and then, when I didn't see them, went down quickly to see it it was open (it wasn't) and then back up. I waited a while after that but they never appeared. I figured maybe they had passed me while I was checking on the church, so I went on to the albergue at the other end of town.
The albergue was open and there was a sign on the door saying that the hospitalera would be by at 6:00 (actually, she came closer to 5:00). There were backpacks and signs that bunks had been claimed, but no one was about. I claimed a bunk and headed into town to get something to eat. Once again, Google lied about what was available and open, but a local steered me to a bar that had platos combinados (combination plates, like a cheaper, simpler version of the daily menu all on one plate - mine was chicken, eggs, and fries). While I was at the restaurant, I reserved a bed and a meal for tomorrow at the Posada el Embrujo in Poladura de la Tercia (they have a €15 pilgrim rate for pilgrims in hostel style rooms with two beds). After that, I went to a supermarket to get some food supplies to get me through to supper tomorrow.
Then it was back to the albergue for a shower and laundry. It was late when the laundry was done so I hope it dries. It is quite windy but in the shade. Then lying down for a rest which brings us to the present.
The pilgrims I walked with don't seem to have checked into this albergue. I hope they have somewhere else to stay (maybe a double room) and are all right. I'm a bit worried by how they just disappeared.
Photos below:
- First marker on the San Salvador, by the parador
- Looking back at the suburbs of Leon
- There were many of these little religious shrines ticked into trees as we walked through the woods today
- View from the mirador
- Walking through the woods
- Buen Camino, peregrino (Cabanillas)
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