A
Anemone del Camino
Guest
After reading Kanga's Live posts I thought I would do the same with my Primitivo experience, but Wifi is not aleays easy to find. But today I have decided to stay in the lovely hotel on the Grandas de Salime dam and decided to start sharing bits about this Camino.
First, as I have been asked to, please allow me to address the "solo woman walking issue". This route has been 95% solo walking, and most of that time in areas where anything could happen to me without anyone ever finding out. And yet I do not see it any more as an assue as I have in other Caminos in the past. The real concern to me would be an injury, a fall along all those many ravines. And do not kid yourself, there is no babysitting on this route, topography is demanding, distances as well, and so is the wind. If you feel you need company every step along the way, I do not think this route is for you. To be able to make it to our next destination we each need to walk at our own rythm, and so it is. Which doesn't mean that you cannot ask someone to make sure you arrive at night, but do not expect hand holding.
General impressions so far, from Oviedo to Grandas, in 7 days: it is gorgeous, solitary, quiet, clean. It is a challenge but so worth it. And I'm glad it is as this is what will hopefuly keep it so beuatiful, quiet and clean. It's not about the monuments, it's about the scenary, the landscape, the constant sound of te wind. It is not about "Camino families" and vino tinto, as there are super walkers and those, like me, not so much!, and vino tinto would prevent you from getting anywhere the next day. Albergues are quiet, people respectful, even if dinner at the local bar can be animated.
Albergues are so much better than reported on Eroski; perhaps there has been pessure from the authorities for better cleaning. Esclampero and Berducedo were given very bad reviews but they are fine. Not fancy, but clean, and simple, with blankets. There are also new options not in the giudes: New albergue in Oviedo @ Covadonga #8. it is called La peregrina, has 30 beds. Esclampero has rooms (26 beds, not 14 as in cicerone) at the bar and there is also a pension at Casa Marquez in Berducedo.
There are also bars mentionned in te 2015 Cicerone giude which have vbeen closed for over a year From Esclampero your first loo will be in Penaflor, not Premono. There is a new bar 1km after Premono but not open at 8:30am. Cornellana albergue is not recommended at the moment because the monastery it is a part of is being restored, whish itself is great news. Ah, and San Salvador in Oviedo is also being renovated, so at the moment on,y has one loo for all 40 beds. Not good. I do recomend Hostal Oviedo on Calle Uria across from the train station and Hostal Homero? On calle Uria as well, where Imstayed last fall. Look it up in the Forum App.
Want to go to the Naranco sites? Bus is now called A2 rather than n.10, take it going towards Centro Asturiano, a sports/activity complex on top of the hill. Or jus walk straight up behinfpd the train station after taking the escalators. To take back the Camino, with your back to the monuments whe pn you are in the parking lot, take the road in front of you to the right and walk to the village of Ucle where there is a bar for a bocadillo, then Lampaya, and Loriana. This route merges with the CP at a small chapel, where you take a righ, off the concrete road.
But please, when at the chapel, and using its stamp, only decorate your credencial and not the walls of the chapel. Yes, really! And leave more than a penny in exchange.
More later!
First, as I have been asked to, please allow me to address the "solo woman walking issue". This route has been 95% solo walking, and most of that time in areas where anything could happen to me without anyone ever finding out. And yet I do not see it any more as an assue as I have in other Caminos in the past. The real concern to me would be an injury, a fall along all those many ravines. And do not kid yourself, there is no babysitting on this route, topography is demanding, distances as well, and so is the wind. If you feel you need company every step along the way, I do not think this route is for you. To be able to make it to our next destination we each need to walk at our own rythm, and so it is. Which doesn't mean that you cannot ask someone to make sure you arrive at night, but do not expect hand holding.
General impressions so far, from Oviedo to Grandas, in 7 days: it is gorgeous, solitary, quiet, clean. It is a challenge but so worth it. And I'm glad it is as this is what will hopefuly keep it so beuatiful, quiet and clean. It's not about the monuments, it's about the scenary, the landscape, the constant sound of te wind. It is not about "Camino families" and vino tinto, as there are super walkers and those, like me, not so much!, and vino tinto would prevent you from getting anywhere the next day. Albergues are quiet, people respectful, even if dinner at the local bar can be animated.
Albergues are so much better than reported on Eroski; perhaps there has been pessure from the authorities for better cleaning. Esclampero and Berducedo were given very bad reviews but they are fine. Not fancy, but clean, and simple, with blankets. There are also new options not in the giudes: New albergue in Oviedo @ Covadonga #8. it is called La peregrina, has 30 beds. Esclampero has rooms (26 beds, not 14 as in cicerone) at the bar and there is also a pension at Casa Marquez in Berducedo.
There are also bars mentionned in te 2015 Cicerone giude which have vbeen closed for over a year From Esclampero your first loo will be in Penaflor, not Premono. There is a new bar 1km after Premono but not open at 8:30am. Cornellana albergue is not recommended at the moment because the monastery it is a part of is being restored, whish itself is great news. Ah, and San Salvador in Oviedo is also being renovated, so at the moment on,y has one loo for all 40 beds. Not good. I do recomend Hostal Oviedo on Calle Uria across from the train station and Hostal Homero? On calle Uria as well, where Imstayed last fall. Look it up in the Forum App.
Want to go to the Naranco sites? Bus is now called A2 rather than n.10, take it going towards Centro Asturiano, a sports/activity complex on top of the hill. Or jus walk straight up behinfpd the train station after taking the escalators. To take back the Camino, with your back to the monuments whe pn you are in the parking lot, take the road in front of you to the right and walk to the village of Ucle where there is a bar for a bocadillo, then Lampaya, and Loriana. This route merges with the CP at a small chapel, where you take a righ, off the concrete road.
But please, when at the chapel, and using its stamp, only decorate your credencial and not the walls of the chapel. Yes, really! And leave more than a penny in exchange.
More later!
Last edited by a moderator: