Camino Sanabrės

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi everyone! It's been a while since I was here, and like last time I am seeking your expertise; your advice for my 2013 CDN was invaluable and I had the most touching spiritual moments of my life. Now I understand the reason so many want to go back. My goal is to return in 2016, and I can't wait to be there!

My thoughts at this point are to begin from Zamora (VDP) and join the Sanabrés in Granja de Moreruela. If my itinerary works as I hope, with a 3 night break in Ourense, I'll be able to get to Santiago in 21 days.

This time I'm seeking advice for what you think would be the best time of year to do the Camino Sanabrés. Also, are there any things along my route that are a "must" and I shouldn't miss? Or of any areas to avoid?
Also, why cannot I find nothing here in reference to "Camino Sanabrés"? I find all the others but no mention of this route by that name!

My sincere thanks to you and anticipating any expert words you can give me,

Ultreïa,

Mary

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi everyone! It's been a while since I was here, and like last time I am seeking your expertise; your advice for my 2013 CDN was invaluable and I had the most touching spiritual moments of my life. Now I understand the reason so many want to go back. My goal is to return in 2016, and I can't wait to be there!

My thoughts at this point are to begin from Zamora (VDP) and join the Sanabrés in Granja de Moreruela. If my itinerary works as I hope, with a 3 night break in Ourense, I'll be able to get to Santiago in 21 days.

This time I'm seeking advice for what you think would be the best time of year to do the Camino Sanabrés. Also, are there any things along my route that are a "must" and I shouldn't miss? Or of any areas to avoid?
Also, why cannot I find nothing here in reference to "Camino Sanabrés"? I find all the others but no mention of this route by that name!

My sincere thanks to you and anticipating any expert words you can give me,

Ultreïa,

Mary

Hi, Mary,
Good to see you back again. I think you've got a great plan. You are right that there is no sub-forum section on the Camino Sanabres, but you will find tons of stuff in this Via de la Plata section. I would say that probably at least 75-80% of people who walk the Vdlp take the Sanabres turn-off, maybe even more. If you get in the Vdlp forum and do a search with the word Sanabres, you'll find lots of posts.

I posted my Vdlp stages, which include the Sanabres, and you'll see there are a lot of very short days, and I used 18 days to walk Zamora to Santiago. That gives you the 3 days you want in Ourense. So they may be a starting point for your approximations.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/

I thought the Vdlp was spectacular in spring. All green fields, tons of flowers In summer and fall, especially south of Puebla de Sanabria, you're likely to have a lot of brown and harvested wheat fields, but I'm sure it has its own beauty.

Don't shortchange Zamora, it is an amazingly rich town -- 26 romanesque churches, restored castle and walls, cathedral, museums. In fact, I would say it beats out Ourense by a huge factor!

Ourense is its own little micro-climate and has some of the hottest weather in Spain.

Enjoy your planning, you are going to love this route. Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi everyone! It's been a while since I was here, and like last time I am seeking your expertise; your advice for my 2013 CDN was invaluable and I had the most touching spiritual moments of my life. Now I understand the reason so many want to go back. My goal is to return in 2016, and I can't wait to be there!

My thoughts at this point are to begin from Zamora (VDP) and join the Sanabrés in Granja de Moreruela. If my itinerary works as I hope, with a 3 night break in Ourense, I'll be able to get to Santiago in 21 days.

This time I'm seeking advice for what you think would be the best time of year to do the Camino Sanabrés. Also, are there any things along my route that are a "must" and I shouldn't miss? Or of any areas to avoid?
Also, why cannot I find nothing here in reference to "Camino Sanabrés"? I find all the others but no mention of this route by that name!

My sincere thanks to you and anticipating any expert words you can give me,

Ultreïa,

Mary

Hi, Mary,

I've walked Camino de Levante and Sanabres this summer and I will post my day by day journal once I get all my notes, gps tracks and photos together. It took me 20 days for 477,75kms (gps recorded by Endomondo app) from Zamora to Santiago. If you plan to walk it next year you'll be able to read it before departure. But Gronze (http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-via-plata) and Eroski (http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/sanabres/) have some invaluable info!

Happy planning

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi, Mary,
Good to see you back again. I think you've got a great plan. You are right that there is no sub-forum section on the Camino Sanabres, but you will find tons of stuff in this Via de la Plata section. I would say that probably at least 75-80% of people who walk the Vdlp take the Sanabres turn-off, maybe even more. If you get in the Vdlp forum and do a search with the word Sanabres, you'll find lots of posts.

I posted my Vdlp stages, which include the Sanabres, and you'll see there are a lot of very short days, and I used 18 days to walk Zamora to Santiago. That gives you the 3 days you want in Ourense. So they may be a starting point for your approximations.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/

I thought the Vdlp was spectacular in spring. All green fields, tons of flowers In summer and fall, especially south of Puebla de Sanabria, you're likely to have a lot of brown and harvested wheat fields, but I'm sure it has its own beauty.

Don't shortchange Zamora, it is an amazingly rich town -- 26 romanesque churches, restored castle and walls, cathedral, museums. In fact, I would say it beats out Ourense by a huge factor!

Ourense is its own little micro-climate and has some of the hottest weather in Spain.

Enjoy your planning, you are going to love this route. Laurie

Oh, Laurie, it's wonderful to hear from you! Yes, I will absolutely be spending a few days in Zamora, and a few in Santiago. From there, to Madrid for a week with some friends. I looked at your photos from Zamora to Santiago and think they are beautiful! I do see so many wild flowers and the vegetation is so exuberant! I love that I also went in to your CDN album, and relived my journey! So many great memories!
So, do you think mid-April would be a good time to start walking? Or closer to May?
Did you go on another Camino this year? Or last year?
Cheers!
Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi, Mary,

I've walked Camino de Levante and Sanabres this summer and I will post my day by day journal once I get all my notes, gps tracks and photos together. It took me 20 days for 477,75kms (gps recorded by Endomondo app) from Zamora to Santiago. If you plan to walk it next year you'll be able to read it before departure. But Gronze (http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-via-plata) and Eroski (http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/sanabres/) have some invaluable info!

Happy planning

I will look forward seeing your photos and your journal! When did you go? How was the weather? Honestly, the planning and the anticipation are such a fun and exciting process! Thank you for offering!!

 

[KinkyOne]

[QUOTE="manoll, post: 335626, member: 22778"]I will look forward seeing your photos and your journal! When did you go? How was the weather? Honestly, the planning and the anticipation are such a fun and exciting process! Thank you for offering!![/QUOTE]
I was walking Zamora - Santiago between July 15th and August 4th and it was mostly quite hot. But not as hot as on Levante (up to 45C). By the time I hit Zamora I was already adapted and walking in 35C wasn't really a problem It was mostly sunny, the only rain I had was after Lubian over the Portillo de la Canda but I took it as a usual Galician welcome

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, Laurie, it's wonderful to hear from you! Yes, I will absolutely be spending a few days in Zamora, and a few in Santiago. From there, to Madrid for a week with some friends. I looked at your photos from Zamora to Santiago and think they are beautiful! I do see so many wild flowers and the vegetation is so exuberant! I love that I also went in to your CDN album, and relived my journey! So many great memories!
So, do you think mid-April would be a good time to start walking? Or closer to May?
Did you go on another Camino this year? Or last year?
Cheers!
Mary

Hi, Mary,
I started in Sevilla on May 1, so it was May 25 before I even got to Zamora. I remember many very cool days south of Merida, wearing wool gloves till 10 or 11 in the morning. Lots of people start in Sevilla between mid April and early May, but they're more than three weeks south of Zamora. But I think May is generally a great month to walk. I know that in 2013, when I walked the Levante, it rained all over Spain almost the whole month. But somehow I was in a rainproof bubble and escaped it. You never know what you'll get.

Yes, I've been walking caminos since you were last here. Last year was the Olvidado, and this year the Catalan/Invierno. I'm trying to resist starting to plan for next year, but I'll be back, Santiago willing! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[LTfit]

The Sanabrés is also wonderful in the fall! The chestnuts, apples, fresh figs and unharvested grapes were delicious! I don't believe in picking others' crops but the locals gave us handfuls.

I have also done it twice in July but given you are already way up north the temperature was ok although Ourense tends to be quite warm given its microclimate.

This site is great for planning your stages, I've used it each time (2x in 12 days and once in 11):www.godesalco.com
Click on plan and Plata.

Enjoy the planning!
Cheers
LT

 

[Magwood]

I also walked the sanabres in spring this year, as a continuation of my camino Mozárabe from Málaga to Santiago and Finisterre. I passed through Zamora in mid May and reached Santiago in 17 stages, some of them quite short. You can read about my stages and where I stayed and see lots of photos on my blog http://magwood.me/camino-mozarabe/.

Spring is a beautiful time to walk - the wild flowers are stunning. If you have any specific questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

 

[george.g]

Hi Maggie.
Next year ?
Best regards.
George

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi, Mary,
I started in Sevilla on May 1, so it was May 25 before I even got to Zamora. I remember many very cool days south of Merida, wearing wool gloves till 10 or 11 in the morning. Lots of people start in Sevilla between mid April and early May, but they're more than three weeks south of Zamora. But I think May is generally a great month to walk. I know that in 2013, when I walked the Levante, it rained all over Spain almost the whole month. But somehow I was in a rainproof bubble and escaped it. You never know what you'll get.

Yes, I've been walking caminos since you were last here. Last year was the Olvidado, and this year the Catalan/Invierno. I'm trying to resist starting to plan for next year, but I'll be back, Santiago willing! Buen camino, Laurie

Laurie, your Caminos have been wonderful and to think of all those memories! I love your photos and I do understand why resisting might not be an option Weather can never be predicted 100%, it's finicky and prone to change its course! Well, I've booked my flight for late April and will stay in Spain for 5 weeks! 2 of my Peregrina friends are considering, but I couldn't pass a great deal on airfare and went ahead!
My best to you and Buen Camino, as well!

 

[Peregrina 2013]

[QUOTE="manoll, post: 335626, member: 22778"]I will look forward seeing your photos and your journal! When did you go? How was the weather? Honestly, the planning and the anticipation are such a fun and exciting process! Thank you for offering!!

I was walking Zamora - Santiago between July 15th and August 4th and it was mostly quite hot. But not as hot as on Levante (up to 45C). By the time I hit Zamora I was already adapted and walking in 35C wasn't really a problem It was mostly sunny, the only rain I had was after Lubian over the Portillo de la Canda but I took it as a usual Galician welcome [/QUOTE]

Well, I'm pretty sure in May it will be cooler, and perhaps rainy! I will simply adapt and take whatever comes my way - with prayer for sunny weather as I walk along! Walking along the CDN in May and June was rainy sometimes, but it was cool most of the time, perfect for the trek!

 

[Peregrina 2013]

I also walked the sanabres in spring this year, as a continuation of my camino Mozárabe from Málaga to Santiago and Finisterre. I passed through Zamora in mid May and reached Santiago in 17 stages, some of them quite short. You can read about my stages and where I stayed and see lots of photos on my blog http://magwood.me/camino-mozarabe/.

Spring is a beautiful time to walk - the wild flowers are stunning. If you have any specific questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Hi Maggie, I will take a look at your blog knowing that it will be very helpful. I appreciate your thoughts on the Sanabrés, and am so excited to get there. My travel to Spain will be in late April and hopefully the wild flowers will be blooming then. Thanks for offering to answer my questions as I'm preparing and planning for next spring!

 

[Peregrina 2013]

The Sanabrés is also wonderful in the fall! The chestnuts, apples, fresh figs and unharvested grapes were delicious! I don't believe in picking others' crops but the locals gave us handfuls.

I have also done it twice in July but given you are already way up north the temperature was ok although Ourense tends to be quite warm given its microclimate.

This site is great for planning your stages, I've used it each time (2x in 12 days and once in 11):www.godesalco.com
Click on plan and Plata.

Enjoy the planning!
Cheers
LT

LT Fall sounds like a great season to be there! Maybe for my Camino after the Sanabrés will be early fall Godesalco seems to be a great resource just like Eroski Consumer and Mundicamino. Thanks for the information! In Ourense I had thought of staying at least an extra day to go to the hot springs, at that point, a little bit of pampering may be due

 

[maricristina]

Hello Manoll,
I always say the VdlP from Sevilla was the the most wonderful of many caminos we walked. We walked in May 2001. "Go in May!" Alison Raju told me, "the wild flowers will stretch as far as the eye can see." They really did! (Lavender, cistus, scented iris etc,etc.) There were nightingales day after day singing us encouragement. There were beautiful little Iberico pigs in the dehesas. Accommodation was sparse so we sometimes slept on floors but we were always welcomed. Stages were sometimes very long (42km one day) with nothing available. We (myself and my husband) met only 6 other pilgrims. Oh 8/9 actually as we came across a young couple who had walked from Granada with a black donkey called Othello!! They went slowly because Othello would not cross the many rivers we had to cross....sometimes wade across. They had to make detours to bridges. Waymarking was not always good so we did occasionally get lost.
We found Extramadura was having an early heatwave. Because some stages were long we walked the 600 miles in 35 days. The other pilgrims went north to Astorga after Zamora so we were alone. Because there were so few pilgrims on that route then people went out of their way to speak to us and help us like a man ploughing with a mule in a field and another ploughing with two oxen. The cities it went through were another delight. It was the most wonderful experience.
Things have changed. You will find better facilities now but I hope the magic will still be there for you. I am afraid this post has been of no practical help just a "trip down memory lane" so forgive an old woman her indulging herself!

Maricristina

 

[KinkyOne]

LT Fall sounds like a great season to be there! Maybe for my Camino after the Sanabrés will be early fall Godesalco seems to be a great resource just like Eroski Consumer and Mundicamino. Thanks for the information! In Ourense I had thought of staying at least an extra day to go to the hot springs, at that point, a little bit of pampering may be due

If you'll stick to your plan be aware that you could have problems if want to stay your second night in Ourense at municipal albergue. They've told me that people who walked "the distance" that day have priority and that I should have to wait until 8PM for spare bed And I've walked only 300mts from private albergue up the street
After much arguing and yelling I was admited into the albergue. Crazy shit. Never heard of that rule before and I also know there isn't such...

Not to mention that I was bitten by bed-bugs the same night

Ultreia!

 

[Paco Camino]

Hi everyone! It's been a while since I was here, and like last time I am seeking your expertise; your advice for my 2013 CDN was invaluable and I had the most touching spiritual moments of my life. Now I understand the reason so many want to go back. My goal is to return in 2016, and I can't wait to be there!

My thoughts at this point are to begin from Zamora (VDP) and join the Sanabrés in Granja de Moreruela. If my itinerary works as I hope, with a 3 night break in Ourense, I'll be able to get to Santiago in 21 days.

This time I'm seeking advice for what you think would be the best time of year to do the Camino Sanabrés. Also, are there any things along my route that are a "must" and I shouldn't miss? Or of any areas to avoid?
Also, why cannot I find nothing here in reference to "Camino Sanabrés"? I find all the others but no mention of this route by that name!

My sincere thanks to you and anticipating any expert words you can give me,

Ultreïa,

Mary

Hello Mary,
I did the VdlP, from Cadiz, back in 2014. Started at the end of April,
Arrived in Zamora near the end of May - the weathr was excellent into Santiago- Only had a few rainy/cool days. For me some cautionary notes: The Albergue in Montamarta - about 18 km from Zamora had highway construction en route, and the Albergue Municipal was closed at the time due to bed bugs - should be fine now. however, there were two pensions in town 20 & 15 euros respectively. Although the first one include bkft. - when we got up there was none around and no owner either - bummer !!!! The albergue in Laza - great place - but remeber to sign in at the Civil guard/Centre de Salud upon entering into town - othr wise you have to walk back.
The Albergue in Ourense - if you arrive and get the male hospitalero - He has a terrible attitude - I had a doctor's note from the hospital in Ourense indicating that I should rest up (tendinitis in Knee) for a couple days - It was a "battle" for me to stay an extra day - He actually threw the note back at me ( Later when I retruned home - it was actually diagnosed as a stress fracture in my Tibia).
At San Cristovo of Cea, after Ourense - about 22 km - great little albergue. If you get to know the hospitalero - he might show you the recontructed wood burning oven bakery - Great place. however the kitchen is rather small and limited.
After San Cristovo of Cea - take the variant/alternative route to the Monestary of Oseira - about 8 km.
There's a hospitalero there , Luke, I seem to remember his name - comes from Begium each year to look aftr the refugio.
Take a tour of the monastery - 3 euros I think. but get there early so you won't have to wait till the next day to it. 8 km isn't much to do - so you should be there eassily by late morning. However, draw backs in Oseira - one large refugio - room - rathr cool at night, but blankets are there - only two bathrooms and the shower is cool. but when I was ther I was the only one. Food: at that time there were two cafes/bars - side by side almost - serving mostly boccadillos and such. No real pilgrim meals at the time - but reasonable priced.
After Ponte Ulla, about 4-5 km in Outeiro, there's a nice Albergue Municipal - very modern, but the hospitalera cooks for you, from a menu. A little over priced, but rather good, if you didn't bring any food from P. Ulla - from the "Dia" supermarket. Otherwise stay in P. Ulla at the Hostel O Cruzeiro da Ulla - good rooms, good price - 10 euros I think and they serve a pilgrims meal - then it's only about 22 km inot SdeC.
Well buen camino
Frank

 

[KinkyOne]

...The Albergue in Ourense - if you arrive and get the male hospitalero - He has a terrible attitude -
...

Exactly!!! I wasn't really far from beating the sh** out of him. He's a real pr**k and although the Camino supposed to draw the best from the person next time I sincerely hope he'll give me more troubles and I'll show him the best of my long forgoten street-fighting skills.
He should be removed from that position, really!!!

Ultreia!

 

[ajp]

HI! I have read with interest the comments on the best time to walk this part of VDLP. I am planning on starting from Seville on April 4th or 5th, and I have til the first week of June to complete the walk, which I think will be plenty of time. I guess my concern is whether I am starting too early? Some on this thread are suggesting mid April or May are the best times? Any thoughts from anyone who has done this Camino in the ( fairly) early spring?
Thanks
Alan

 

[peregrina2000]

HI! I have read with interest the comments on the best time to walk this part of VDLP. I am planning on starting from Seville on April 4th or 5th, and I have til the first week of June to complete the walk, which I think will be plenty of time. I guess my concern is whether I am starting too early? Some on this thread are suggesting mid April or May are the best times? Any thoughts from anyone who has done this Camino in the ( fairly) early spring?
Thanks
Alan

Hi, Alan,
I think the only thing that might interfere with an early April start date are the rains and the way they fill up the arroyos so you have to ford them with boots/shoes off. That just adds adventure, it's not a problem. You do have plenty of time to walk, you'll probably be able to squeeze in a walk to Finisterre and Muxia! The temperatures should be fine, so go for it. You will probably be on the early side as far as the pilgrim numbers go, but I think it will be beautiful. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Donna Sch]

My favourite day on the Sanabres was the walk from Santa Marta to Rio Negro. A few little towns and it is worth chatting to the locals, the Embalse is great for a lunch time dip (but I was there in July!), some nice trails and if you are lucky you may see a deer and Rio Negro has a nice albergue and the Asociacion Gastronomica me Gusta Comer is where I had my best meal of the entire camino and my first encounter with orujo. The other bar in town also has a very good reputation. Long day but a lovely one.
Oseira was a highlight with the Monastery tour. Lubian and heading over into Galicia was also a very pleasant day.
I loved doing my camino in summer but I tolerate heat well. I also hate mud and getting wet feet. Mid July, blackberries and apples were ripe.

 

[Paco Camino]

Exactly!!! I wasn't really far from beating the shit out of him. He's a real prick and although the Camino supposed to draw the best from the person next time I sincerely hope he'll give me more troubles and I'll show him the best of my long forgoten street-fighting skills.
He should be removed from that position, really!!!

Ultreia!

WoW! And I thought It was only me, other than a couple others who decided to start the Camino in Ourense and they weren't allowed to check in until 8:00pm. Met them a few days later - we had a good laugh about him. However, the female hospitalera - was really nice when I first checked in.
I even complained to him at the local tourist office. Well after over 225 days/albergues on different caminos, him and two other albergues that gave me other troubles - isn't too bad.
Oh well can't be ALL Bueno !
frank

 

[gollygolly]

Hi Mary

I have recently finished walking the Sanabres with my daughter, having started in Zamora at the very end of July. Despite the heat, it was a fantastic and memorable experience, though I can assure that the heat was absurd. My summary of the walk I have posted on this web-site about 10 minutes ago, and there are some hints within. Let me know if you cannot find it.

Strong recommendations - allow time to see Zamora, Puebla de Sanabria, Ourense and go to the Monasterio de Oseria. And do not walk in the months of July and August!

Bon Camino !!

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hello Manoll,
I always say the VdlP from Sevilla was the the most wonderful of many caminos we walked. We walked in May 2001. "Go in May!" Alison Raju told me, "the wild flowers will stretch as far as the eye can see." They really did! (Lavender, cistus, scented iris etc,etc.) There were nightingales day after day singing us encouragement. There were beautiful little Iberico pigs in the dehesas. Accommodation was sparse so we sometimes slept on floors but we were always welcomed. Stages were sometimes very long (42km one day) with nothing available. We (myself and my husband) met only 6 other pilgrims. Oh 8/9 actually as we came across a young couple who had walked from Granada with a black donkey called Othello!! They went slowly because Othello would not cross the many rivers we had to cross....sometimes wade across. They had to make detours to bridges. Waymarking was not always good so we did occasionally get lost.
We found Extramadura was having an early heatwave. Because some stages were long we walked the 600 miles in 35 days. The other pilgrims went north to Astorga after Zamora so we were alone. Because there were so few pilgrims on that route then people went out of their way to speak to us and help us like a man ploughing with a mule in a field and another ploughing with two oxen. The cities it went through were another delight. It was the most wonderful experience.
Things have changed. You will find better facilities now but I hope the magic will still be there for you. I am afraid this post has been of no practical help just a "trip down memory lane" so forgive an old woman her indulging herself!

Maricristina

Maricristina,

Oh, your post has been of help! It reassures me that May just could be the most picturesque time of year with all the bursting spring blooms! It is definitely such delightful entertainment as you walk along admiring nature's beauty, and it makes time less of a focus to get "there". I love solitude and enjoy my time for reflexion, that is the main reason why I selected the Camino Sanabrés. On the 2 days that I spent on the Camino Francés after the "Primitivo" merged into it, I felt like I was in a herd kept together with the rest of the pilgrims; I had pilgrims in front of me, -- some smoking that I had to rush past them to avoid inhaling their stinky smoke, pilgrims behind me, by my side, others speaking so loudly, or worse, yelling to each other if they were in a group, and many bikers passing so close to the walkers (without any warning from behind) that at times if I had move a step to my right or my left, I would've been run over. Definitely, an accident waiting to happen. No, never again will I be on the Francés!

Thank you for the information and sharing your experience I, too, look forward to being there and enjoying the all that the camino brings, including so many kind locals along the route. I hope that you may have the chance to be back on the Camino!

Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hello Mary,
I did the VdlP, from Cadiz, back in 2014. Started at the end of April,
Arrived in Zamora near the end of May - the weathr was excellent into Santiago- Only had a few rainy/cool days. For me some cautionary notes: The Albergue in Montamarta - about 18 km from Zamora had highway construction en route, and the Albergue Municipal was closed at the time due to bed bugs - should be fine now. however, there were two pensions in town 20 & 15 euros respectively. Although the first one include bkft. - when we got up there was none around and no owner either - bummer !!!! The albergue in Laza - great place - but remeber to sign in at the Civil guard/Centre de Salud upon entering into town - othr wise you have to walk back.
The Albergue in Ourense - if you arrive and get the male hospitalero - He has a terrible attitude - I had a doctor's note from the hospital in Ourense indicating that I should rest up (tendinitis in Knee) for a couple days - It was a "battle" for me to stay an extra day - He actually threw the note back at me ( Later when I retruned home - it was actually diagnosed as a stress fracture in my Tibia).
At San Cristovo of Cea, after Ourense - about 22 km - great little albergue. If you get to know the hospitalero - he might show you the recontructed wood burning oven bakery - Great place. however the kitchen is rather small and limited.
After San Cristovo of Cea - take the variant/alternative route to the Monestary of Oseira - about 8 km.
There's a hospitalero there , Luke, I seem to remember his name - comes from Begium each year to look aftr the refugio.
Take a tour of the monastery - 3 euros I think. but get there early so you won't have to wait till the next day to it. 8 km isn't much to do - so you should be there eassily by late morning. However, draw backs in Oseira - one large refugio - room - rathr cool at night, but blankets are there - only two bathrooms and the shower is cool. but when I was ther I was the only one. Food: at that time there were two cafes/bars - side by side almost - serving mostly boccadillos and such. No real pilgrim meals at the time - but reasonable priced.
After Ponte Ulla, about 4-5 km in Outeiro, there's a nice Albergue Municipal - very modern, but the hospitalera cooks for you, from a menu. A little over priced, but rather good, if you didn't bring any food from P. Ulla - from the "Dia" supermarket. Otherwise stay in P. Ulla at the Hostel O Cruzeiro da Ulla - good rooms, good price - 10 euros I think and they serve a pilgrims meal - then it's only about 22 km inot SdeC.
Well buen camino
Frank

Hello Paco,

Many thanks for all your great advice and warnings! After reading about your experience in Ourense, there is no way that I'd consider staying there! I am so sorry that the "hospitalero" (how did he get the job? Yikes!~) had no compassion or common sense to extend your stay without reproach! I hope you are completely recovered and perhaps, planning another Camino in the future.

Your notes will be included in my itinerary I love all the heads up, the lodging and the food information. Definitely love monasteries, do you know if there are any along the route where pilgrims are welcome to stay? On Camino del Norte I stayed in 2 monasteries, one convent, (actually with another pilgrim who had a tree fracture on her tibia, and the nuns allowed me to stay with her for 2 nights, and when I left she spent 2 more nights there), and a former seminary. Historical buildings, medieval convents/monasteries fascinate me, and if there were any on my way, I'd love to stay there

Ultreīa!

Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi Mary

I have recently finished walking the Sanabres with my daughter, having started in Zamora at the very end of July. Despite the heat, it was a fantastic and memorable experience, though I can assure that the heat was absurd. My summary of the walk I have posted on this web-site about 10 minutes ago, and there are some hints within. Let me know if you cannot find it.

Strong recommendations - allow time to see Zamora, Puebla de Sanabria, Ourense and go to the Monasterio de Oseria. And do not walk in the months of July and August!

Bon Camino !!

Hello "Gollygolly,

It's terrific to know that you just finished the Sanabrés. My flight is scheduled for the 26th of April next year with a plan of staying in Spain 5 weeks, giving myself time to stay in historical towns and also, to visit friends. I was able to find your daily itinerary and read some of it. I will continue to live vicariously through your journey until my time comes
I am very grateful for your kindness in sharing your Camino experience.

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

My favourite day on the Sanabres was the walk from Santa Marta to Rio Negro. A few little towns and it is worth chatting to the locals, the Embalse is great for a lunch time dip (but I was there in July!), some nice trails and if you are lucky you may see a deer and Rio Negro has a nice albergue and the Asociacion Gastronomica me Gusta Comer is where I had my best meal of the entire camino and my first encounter with orujo. The other bar in town also has a very good reputation. Long day but a lovely one.
Oseira was a highlight with the Monastery tour. Lubian and heading over into Galicia was also a very pleasant day.
I loved doing my camino in summer but I tolerate heat well. I also hate mud and getting wet feet. Mid July, blackberries and apples were ripe.

Hello Donna,

Reading your information is great! I am taking notes to ensure that I don't miss those places that were memorable to you and others, so that I can include them as part of my own experience! The Asociación Gastronómica Me Gusta Comer, I am sure will be one of those unforgettable culinary experiences! I've been to a couple of restaurants that the Sociedad Gastronómica has in different parts of Spain, the most indelible for me has been the Txoko Zar Viejo Rincón Asociación Gastronómica in Madrid - specialized in Gastronomy from the País Vasco.

I'm so not happy about missing out on the blackberries and apples, but hope to see many wildflowers to make up for not having the chance to eat nature's treats along the way In my many times in Spain, the only area where I have seen wild deer has been in "The Royal Palace of La Granja" by Segovia, but that's it, so if I'm lucky to see any by Rio Negro I'll consider myself very fortunate!

Thank you so much for sharing your experiences!

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hey KinkyOne, I believe you alone could take care of the problem, but hopefully it won't come to that! If anyone is paying attention and there have been enough complaints about this character, that would warrant his dismissal and never again be allowed to host an albergue! I'll peek in when I get there and make up my mind whether to stay or find a better place

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[KinkyOne]

Hey KinkyOne, I believe you alone could take care of the problem, but hopefully it won't come to that! If anyone is paying attention and there have been enough complaints about this character, that would warrant his dismissal and never again be allowed to host an albergue! I'll peek in when I get there and make up my mind whether to stay or find a better place

Ultreïa!

Mary

Hola, Mary,

The day before I went there just to check if a Canadian pilgrim I've walked with past three days left any message for me. And very nice lady even let me in to check if he was there, in the dormitory. But I don't know what shifts they have. You might get lucky and never meet this male character.
Anyway, there's somewhat soulless private Grelo Hostel (15€ w/breakfast) just 300 meters down the main street (Rua Pena Trevinca 40) on righthand side. But very clean and quiet, opened 24hrs, with kitchen & supermercado 20mts in direction of mentioned Xunta albergue at San Francisco monastery.

Ultreia!

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hola KinkyOne,

Gracias! The alternative seems to be the better choice!! How can one not want a place like that? Thanks for this new info. I've entered it into my itinerary

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[KinkyOne]

Hola KinkyOne,

Gracias! The alternative seems to be the better choice!! How can one not want a place like that? Thanks for this new info. I've entered it into my itinerary

Ultreïa!

Mary

You have all the info on route, distances (although my GPS measured them a bit longer this year) and accommodation here:
http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-via-plata (stages with "S" at the end)
http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=44 (even with info on pharmacies, shops, restaurants/bars etc.)
http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/sanabres/

If you use at least one of these you'll be OK. And the Camino is so well marked you can hardly get lost

 

[gollygolly]

Hello "Gollygolly,

It's terrific to know that you just finished the Sanabrés. My flight is scheduled for the 26th of April next year with a plan of staying in Spain 5 weeks, giving myself time to stay in historical towns and also, to visit friends. I was able to find your daily itinerary and read some of it. I will continue to live vicariously through your journey until my time comes
I am very grateful for your kindness in sharing your Camino experience.

Ultreïa!

Mary

Hello Mary

With each passing day the memories that I have of the walk only get better ! I very much hope that you will also have some fantastic experiences along the way when you walk out from Zamora.

The town that I wish that we had given more time to was Puebla de Sanabria, and I suspect that staying at Cas Miravel when in Xunqueira de Ambia would have been an uplifting experience.

All the very best and Buen - or is it Bon ? Camino

Andrew

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hello Mary

With each passing day the memories that I have of the walk only get better ! I very much hope that you will also have some fantastic experiences along the way when you walk out from Zamora.

The town that I wish that we had given more time to was Puebla de Sanabria, and I suspect that staying at Cas Miravel when in Xunqueira de Ambia would have been an uplifting experience.

All the very best and Buen - or is it Bon ? Camino

Andrew

Thanks Andrew for your insight. If you think of anything else that might be useful for me to know, please get in touch!

Ultreïa!

Oh, it's "Buen Camino"

 

[Peregrina 2013]

You have all the info on route, distances (although my GPS measured them a bit longer this year) and accommodation here:
http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-via-plata (stages with "S" at the end)
http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=44 (even with info on pharmacies, shops, restaurants/bars etc.)
http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/sanabres/

If you use at least one of these you'll be OK. And the Camino is so well marked you can hardly get lost

These links are the ones I've used before, and you are so right about the invaluable information these offer. The Consumer Eroski has an app with all of the Camino routes and the same information contained on their site You've given me reassurance about not getting lost because it's well marked! Thanks again for your kindness!

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

WoW! And I thought It was only me, other than a couple others who decided to start the Camino in Ourense and they weren't allowed to check in until 8:00pm. Met them a few days later - we had a good laugh about him. However, the female hospitalera - was really nice when I first checked in.
I even complained to him at the local tourist office. Well after over 225 days/albergues on different caminos, him and two other albergues that gave me other troubles - isn't too bad.
Oh well can't be ALL Bueno !
frank

Hi Frank,

Hearing about this bad hospitalero from others and from you, I know where I won't be staying if this guy is there. The alternative suggestions seem like the right choice! Thank you for the details!

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[Donna Sch]

The Asociación Gastronómica Me Gusta Comer, I am sure will be one of those unforgettable culinary experiences! I've been to a couple of restaurants that the Sociedad Gastronómica has in different parts of Spain, the most indelible for me has been the Txoko Zar Viejo Rincón Asociación Gastronómica in Madrid - specialized in Gastronomy from the País Vasco.


Mary

Theofilos also does a pulpo menu with all courses including postres containing octopus. Unfortunately he wasn't doing it the day we were there but even his normal menu is fantastic. He is just a really creative guy (the paintings on the walls are all his) who loves food. He could make a living anywhere with his skills but I think he has got the balance right: a small town so the numbers are manageable with a good local following but also getting the pilgrim trade so meeting new faces as well. It's more than just a business; it's a calling for him. And if he ever gets sick of Spain and wants to try Australia, I have already suggested he come to Darwin LOL.

 

[Donna Sch]

If you do stay at the Municipal Albergue, pop across the road to the Bar Acropolis. The owner is a lovely woman with a great haircut. We just happened to cross paths in Fisterra and she came up to me and said hi and we had a bit of a chat. Spain is that kind of place. You bump into the one person you know from one town further down the track.

 

[windswept]

Hi Mary,
I walked the Vdlp from Seville starting on 14/4. You might like to have a look at my blog which includes many photos. Hopefully this will give you some idea of what to expect. I loved this Camino, my third.

My blog is at. www.dartmoorwalker.blogspot.co.uk

This will a,so give you access to a video I made of the walk

Stay safe and enjoy

 

[Donna Sch]

WoW! And I thought It was only me, other than a couple others who decided to start the Camino in Ourense and they weren't allowed to check in until 8:00pm. Met them a few days later - we had a good laugh about him. However, the female hospitalera - was really nice when I first checked in.
I even complained to him at the local tourist office. Well after over 225 days/albergues on different caminos, him and two other albergues that gave me other troubles - isn't too bad.
Oh well can't be ALL Bueno !
frank

He hardly registered with me. Not the most forthcoming or helpful guy but I just assumed he'd had a long tiring day. And I've had some blokes that are sometimes a little over-friendly so sometimes that is not a bad thing. And I always assume that people don't understand my Kiwi/Aussie accent. But yes, the female one was friendlier. Maybe he is just grumpier with men?

 

[Paco Camino]

Donna,
Lucky you!, with your meeting with that fellow in Ourense. Yes, from my talking to others he is more irritable with males, but not by much. but I see your point. Hope he didn't put you off from other future caminos, like he might have done to those that started in Ourense, and had to wait till 8:00pm to check in. But in all the caminos I've done, he's been the second of three hospitaleros that actually doesn't fit what one would think a hospitalero should be. But then if I hadn't had the leg problem, I would just have looked at him like you did.
That's why I've changed my "member photo" to address these types, certain hospitaleros and certain peregrinos ( Aka: tourigrinos). but they haven't detered me from doing several caminos, and more on the books to come.
frank

 

[CanPete]

Thanks Andrew for your insight. If you think of anything else that might be useful for me to know, please get in touch!

Ultreïa!

Oh, it's "Buen Camino"

Buen Camino in Spain, Bom Caminho in Portugal . . .

 

[alexwalker]

Hi Mary,
I walked the Vdlp from Seville starting on 14/4. You might like to have a look at my blog which includes many photos. Hopefully this will give you some idea of what to expect. I loved this Camino, my third.

My blog is at. www.dartmoorwalker.blogspot.co.uk

This will a,so give you access to a video I made of the walk

Stay safe and enjoy

Thank you for your great video. Will also read your blog carefully. You have put me between a rock and a hard place: Should I do VdlP for the 2nd time, or CF for the 3rd the coming April? Hmmm... dilemmas, dilemmas...