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And you are far from being the first person to find them heavy going. A few weeks back a resident expert told us that technically they are not cobblestones at all but granite setts. An interesting piece of trivia but not a lot of help at the end of the day
What ? nother two or three days ? That's means I really shall have to have a glass of wine for you ...
Well, from Lisbon there is at least 4 days of asphalt walking (mostly) including one day on the shoulder of a highly trafficed highway... I quit after 4 days: No more days in the danger zone.: Train from Santarem to Porto. I should also mention that at least the first days out of Lisbon you will mostly have to rely on hostels/hotels. It will make it a more expensive Camino.
And then you are in blessed Galicia, and all is well. 
OMG, I'm starting from Lisbon on 5th September...... Where do the cobbles start?
I only started in Porto but they've been with me ever since and someone has just told me the stop just before you arrive in Spain !! I'm cursing having decided to wear my new walking shoes instead if my trusty old , Camino veteran, lightweight hiking boots. At least then I wouldn't have felt every bump through the soles.....I should have taken the cobble threads seriously. But as nycwalking said 'this too shall pass' .....
Oh dear... I've decided to wear lightweight trail-trainers this time as my walking boots are heavy and I got so many blisters while on the Spanish Camino... Now I'm having 2nd thoughts!
You may we'll be fine. You know your feet better than anyone. I have seen a lot of boots here but that doesn't mean much. I love my boots but was convinced to try something lighter. That was silly of me because my boots just don't give me blisters. My own fault. Perhaps bring decent inserts just in case......go with your instincts - and read other cobble posts.
The way from Lisbon is lacking many sign & alberguess. I just walked the first 4 days before I called it a day and took the train to Porto. And mind you, I was not the only one. From porto there is a LOT of cobblestone road; but OK: I could handle it. but it was hurting some days. But a great walk. Coming into Spain, all was back to normal comfort zone.
I have walked the Central route only. Plenty of cobblestones there. Too much, actually: hard on the feet.
Thanks for the thumbs up, enjoy the rest of your journey
They start from Porto, atleast. I do not know about further south, because I skipped it due to bad infrastructure for pilgrims. I advice you to bring solid boots on the CP: Normal trainers etc. will NOT do: You need something sturdy out there.
Porto to Vila do Condo was mainly on wooden boardwalks and was actually a lovely walk. I don't know what happens beyond there as I crossed over to the central.
I so wish I'd read that first !! Even my Merrill walking shoes are having a hard time !
I disagree, and I walked from Porto. You need cushioning, not sturdy.
to drink it all up. He resisted any payment, so I left with some Euros on the table when he was unaware. The power of language in action!
Whatever. You need proper shoes.
Well, the fact is that with Hoka One Ones I never knew there were cobble stones or granite setts. And I actually walked from Porto.
Happy for you. The cobble stones from (atleast) Porto to the Spanish border,are really a challenge, even with my topnotch Salomon boots.Well, the fact is that with Hoka One Ones I never knew there were cobble stones or granite setts. And I actually walked from Porto.
I have to tell you, because I was going to walk 1000km this spring, and knew HOO thread would not last that long, I walked with Salomon Ultra2GTX and suffered. Four days in on VDLP, I was googling to find where I could purchase HOO and have them shipped to some albergue. I was so angry at myself for having prefered the Salomons.
Oh, Alex, how hard that must have been, geez. I can't even imagine. I really sympathize with you...
After some time he asked me to follow him and so I did. He wanted to show me his own wine-producing cellar, where he made organic white wine. Very interesting indeed. He then poured a significant measure of his white wine into a bowl, and I was forced
That Roman road... I'll not forget the stones!
They now have a few ofmtheir models in a "wide" version. I agree, many of their regular models have a narrow toebox. I wore the Bondi 5 in regular width and it was very roomy. Now they have a Bondi 5W.
Oh, I see now. Huh, I thought when you were mentioning cobblestones it's a no go for me but that's not really what we call "cat heads" (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cobblestone#/media/File:ItalianStones.jpg). Well that's a tough time to walk on
Granite cubes? Ahhh, nothing. Stone plates? No problem. Tarmac? A bit annoying. But "cat-heads" - go and try
They look nasty even for horses.
I sort of agree and disagree. You certainly need cushioning BUT , I do wish I had my support as well. The fact that the cobbles ( granite sets !!) make my feet move from side to side and I'm constantly re-adjusting rather than rolling flat means that my legs are sore too. If I had my sturdy ankle support boots I wouldn't be in so much trouble. It's horses for courses. If you normally like ankle support then come with boots. Those who don't need ankle support don't always understand those of us who do. I'll survive this but would be much be happier in different footwear.
HOO makes boots.
Glad to hear it. My Merrill's however are having a very hard time of it.Well, the fact is that with Hoka One Ones I never knew there were cobble stones or granite setts. And I actually walked from Porto.
ll certainly have a look ....
Look at it this way...if those narrow roads with no shoulders were paved with asphalt, you probably wouldn't hear the freight train-like roar of the tiny Renault approaching from behind at 80km/hr.
Hahaha - very very true. They don't do slow do they ?! tbh - I was just having a tiny let off of frustration as I sat nursing three blisters in 3 days having only ever had 1 in total in two CF's. I didn't expect to touch such a nerve. Entertaining thoughLook at it this way...if those narrow roads with no shoulders were paved with asphalt, you probably wouldn't hear the freight train-like roar of the tiny Renault approaching from behind at 80km/hr.
Yeah, tarmac and cobbled paths do that. Stop every two hours, have a beer and put your boots/shoes off to dry the socks. Maybe put ladies hygienic pads in your boots???
It turned out to be Sangria - hope that's ok.
Suzie - the trek from Barcelo onwards has been SO much better. Still cobbles ( granite sets !!) but nowhere near as many.....so only three days of hell. You'll be fine.
Ahhhh but they've changed. I was a huge Hoka fan, I sung their praises from the roof tops. I think they were bought or something. Curious as to when your lovefest with them happened. Mine was almost three years ago, loved them!
I'm going to give them another try based on your vote! It does make me admit they did provide the cushion! I bought six pairs this time last year ( a huge financial hit), my whole family had them.Well, the fact is that with Hoka One Ones I never knew there were cobble stones or granite setts. And I actually walked from Porto.
Oh oh, not good news. My last pair was bought last summer. Jere I was excited they started making more wider models ...
The Norte is where my heart is!
Love your photo/avatar!
I'm counting on your experience and advice, Anemone del Camino. I'll be wearing Hoka One One's, with SuperFeet inserts and am hoping that they'll save my feet. I start from Porto on October 7, along the coast for two days and then inland.
Fingers crossed fir you it all goes well. You are certainly doubling up on comfort.
I left Porto May 23rd finished in Santiago June 5th and went back to Porto for 4 more days to sightsee...my body seems to still be experiencing the after effects of the very nasty cobblestones 2 plus months later...my feet Achilles tendons and a number of legs muscles still hurt or act up I have hardly walked at all since returning home...think the body got way overstressed. Will eventually fully recover I believe but interesting how the body tries to cope. All that being said I probably would do it again.
Smiled when I saw this...i did the Portuguese coastal senda route...and my blog on return includes a section on surfaces...where I share your views about the cobblestones..(although I rate uneven granite pavement the absolute worst) ..here is a cut and paste of my comments...'..Tarmac is Ok and boardwalks are generally nice to walk on (when not in disrepair or incomplete), but cobblestones do not provide the most comfortable surface. I’m amazed at the dedication of the portuguese, even in the most remote of areas, to cobble almost every street. Whilst these are attractive to look at, I sense the soles of my feet starting to complain and I try to walk on the sides of cobbled streets where possible..'.
Hi Janona
Almost into Santiago now and have to say my feet have really suffered and my Achilles is surprisingly painful. I have enjoyed the time here and as ever met some lovely people and had some great moments, but there is simply way too much cobble followed by asphalt and road walking for me. It's not a Camino I will return to I think - unless I do the coastal. I rather regret cutting over to Rates purely for the feet issue. Now got that final climb into Santiago to look forward to
One more question, Anemone. Did you find that the cobblestones caused your ankles to roll? My doctor is worried for me about that and suggests that I get ankle supports, but they don't sound comfortable, and the point of wearing the Hoka's is for the comfort. I'll be using hiking poles, by the way.
Singingheart - Anemone may not have had a problem with rolling but I have which is why I usually wear boots in the first place. The constant readjusting is what has given me problems. There are also one or two really hard sections of uphill with large boulders and stone which again without boots gave me trouble. If I hadn't had my poles I'd have had problems. I think the issue isn't whether other people have had problems or found it easy. I think the issue is - do you normally like/need support ? I do and wish I'd had my boots then I would
Thanks for your comments. I really don't know what I need, which is the problem for me. I wore low-rise boots on the CF and didn't have ankle problems, but I don't know if I would have or not without them. I think with all the loose rock on CF, the boots probably helped me. But I've never really had an ankle problem. It's just that my doctor was concerned for me, probably because of my age. I had a huge issue with foot pain (a blister, bunion pain) and I was hoping that the light-weight Hoka's might prevent that.
I used lightweight low rise boots on both my CF's and really wish I'd had them here. I'll try and send you a few pictures of the bits I've found hard here. It may help you decide.
Hi @Singingheart , i had no problem with rolling ankles, but I also never have. The "cobblestones" are really quite even. I didn't even use my poles except to climb up an embankment once.
Thanks. Good to know.
For what it's worth, I would the terrain on the Frances to be much more of an issue when it comes to balance because of the uneven tire tracks loose stones and small ravines caused by rain. Never blinked on the Portuguese. Only thing that came close to that terrain was the 90 minute walk down the Ruta de Piedra & Agua on the Variante Espiritual.
This is the kind of information that is so helpful. Thank you! I don't think I'll be taking the Variante Espiritual, so I'll miss that. I think I should take a deep breath and trust in my Koka's and my ankles.
Hmmm - I'm beginning to feel quite useless and inferior here, what with my need for poles and boots.......
It's clearly horses for courses. I found the CF terrain infinitely easier with no problems.
Never feel useless and inferior!!! You know how individual each person's experience is. I imagine that I'll use my poles constantly, because I depend on them for balance and propelling me and helping me in countless ways.
I'm a great pole user. I swear by them whether on the flat, uphill or for me most importantly down hill. The 'little stroll' uphill out of Ponte di Lima a few days ago would have been rather an ankle disaster for me without them !
I didn't mean to suggest that your posts haven't been helpful, Gillyweb. I would love to see the pictures you mentioned earlier.
You didn't suggest at all my posts hadn't been helpful - sorry if that's what you thought. I'm just lying here rather battered and bruised with incredibly sore Achilles' tendons and badly aching muscles, rather dreading the last kilometers into Santiago for the first time, feeling rather touchy that what was supposed to be a lighthearted, let off steam, faintly amusing rant about cobbles, became something that right now makes me feel I must be pathetic not to have bounded over the not-very-uneven cobbles with ease, and to have actually had to use my poles more than once. Right now my feet take slight umbrage. By the weekend all will be back in perspective !!
