I want to thank everyone for their input! I completed the walk and wanted to write a follow-up post for future walkers. Any questions, let me know.
I walked with a male friend, both of us in our late 20s. Took the Central Route after Porto. Walked Oct 3- Nov 3. Tooke several rest days.
We followed the
John Brierley book (2017 version... could not find an updated one in Lisbon at the time). It was almost impossible to find a guidebook in Lisbon (we called 10+ book shops, finally got an english copy, last one); I recommend purchasing one before you begin your walk. It was mostly accurate, with the exception of at least one map being very off scale. The book suggests
long days, especially in the beginning, like 30-34km. This was a challenge for us. Even for me, having just finished the CF before beginning this walk. For reference, my sweet spot is 20-22km, and anything over 25km feels like a push for me.
It was difficult or near impossible to break these days up, due to lack of accommodation.
5/6 euro albergues do not exist Lisbon to Porto. Average cost for a hostel or private albergue was 12-15 euros. After the first week of Oct (I think the hospitalera said the 8th)
the prices for municipal albergues in Galicia, Spain increase from 6 to 8 euros. @surya8 's summary post above is excellent, I would echo everything she says, as I find it to be accurate based on our experience. We stayed at Casa Calolico donitivo and did find it to be lovely. The host and his brother were very kind, generous, and relaxed.
Bombeiros did accept us in the following Portuguese cities:
- Santa Iria (the first night of the walk)...free
- Vilafrance de Xira...free
- Santarem (costs 10 euros)...free
-Golega...free
After that, everyone we tried turned us down because they do not accept pilgrims or were under special circumstances (e.g. station in Agueda was under construction, but usually hosts pilgrims, apparently).
Yes, some albergues were closed, usually they were donativos in smaller towns. That meant we had to walk on or hitchhike if we could not physically go further. Still, we always found a place to stay and did not run into issues with hostels/albergues being full.
I will note that after Porto, the walk got much busier. The albergues were much more full, completely at least once (after the coastal and central routes reconnect). I was completely surprised by how many walking pilgrims there were for the end of October and beginning of November. Felt like an average day on the CF, pre- Sarria. Others might disagree.
Couple final notes:
- No pilgrim office in Lisbon meant there was very little support for the journey. The Cathedral, which we stopped into twice, was not helpful in the least. They sold the maps (not full guidebook) and could offer no advice/ wisdom for the journey.
- The trip from Lisbon to Porto isn't particularly beautiful. There's some nice cities (Tomar, Coimbra, Ponte de Lima, & Valenca), but the stretches from the towns are often on paved roads and not always on green nature paths. Plenty of Eucalyptus forests though. If you're deeply effected by your physical surroundings and need lots of stunning nature, the CP from Lisbon to Porto would not be for you. If you can focus on your inner journey and not let your surroundings change your mood, then you won't have an issue with the route.
- We saw almost no pilgrims Lisbon- Porto. Maybe 3 in a day, but not every day.
Bon caminho to anyone who takes on this journey