Hi Katherine! I walked the Primitivo alone beginning December 20, 2019-January 4, 2020 meeting only 4 pilgrims, and only one female pilgrim. I was very happy to meet her when I did! We met Christmas eve in Pola de Allende, and we were the same age, both 40-42. I love solitude, and was surprised at the joy I experienced meeting other pilgrims on this way. I walked alone for about 8 hours a day. Even though that was the case, I’m pretty certain there was always at least one pilgrim ahead of and behind me. There were stretches that I lost my cell signal, but they didn’t last very long …only minutes…and they weren’t frequent. It never made me nervous. I and the other female pilgrim I met had both been checking in with a family member at the end of each day, and letting them know where we had ended and were staying for the night.
I always felt safe and welcomed wherever I was. The people I met were very supportive, kind, friendly, and enthusiastic. Only a couple of times was I called nuts for walking in December! I never had trouble finding a place to stay, but about half the municipal albergues were closed. The weather was pretty great, with only a few light rainy days, no snow, and low temperatures never went below freezing. I think it was a mild year. However, it was really wet! There were parts of the trail that were submerged in water. I was able to circumnavigate it, but ended up getting trekking poles. I strongly suggest trekking poles, a poncho, and waterproof boots! The poles really help when it’s slippery and wet. Keep your chin up if it rains. Know it’ll pass. The rain might slow you down, but as a result you’ll probably get to see plenty of rainbows! I saw more rainbows in that one trip than in my entire life! It was an absolutely spectacular experience!
I’m planning to walk it again this December, beginning around 12/8.
I wish you a Buen Camino!
Kathleen