Daniel H
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2021
I began in Oloron-Ste-Marie Oct 5th and was so happy that I started there instead of at the top of Somport pass. As others have mentioned, the days in France are wonderful, especially the first night at the monastery in Sarrance and the walk between Bedous and the pass. Very green, pastoral, and you get to walk through several small villages.
Going up and over the pass at Somport gives a feeling of accomplishment and a sense of transition as you move from France into Spain, from a wet environment to a dry one, and from a nice but reserved hospitality to a very warm one.
Canfranc station is in the process of being converted into a luxury hotel, so I could only peek through the windows. They are doing a great job, but I wonder how they can justify the funds.
The new albergue at Canfranc is great and the hospitaleros are really nice and helpful, especially to me who was still trying to figure out how this whole camino thing works. You might book ahead since this is very popular and COVID is limiting their spots. I know they had to turn some pilgrims away.
Jaca has plenty to see and do, but I was just content to eat and drink and soak up the warm street vibe. The municipal albergue was fine but you get a lot of street noise from the bar crowd walking on the street.
I took the bus up to San Juan de la Peña monastery and spent a few hours there. A cafeteria is open at the new one, but I didn’t try the food. The walk down is very fretful and not too steep, but it did make for a long day to get to Arrés. I’m happy I went to Peña, but you should really the enjoy architecture/ history/hike down if you chose this route.
Arrés is a special and welcoming albergue run by great hospitaleros that change every two weeks. We received a warm welcome and a delicious home cooked meal. Great views and a bar.
Walking to Ruesta, I stopped at Artieda for a delicious lunch with another great view of the Aragon valley. Getting to Ruesta, I decided to take a trail higher up the mountain that took me in the back way to Ruesta. Fun since I felt like I was finding my own path, but not recommended since it was longer and more elevation.
As others have said, Ruesta is special. Delicious food, interesting people, and so much atmosphere among the ruins.
Most others in the group headed to Sangüisa, but I detoured to Javier castle, then the monastery at Leyre. Jarvier castle was nice to see for what living in a castle was like, and it is in great condition although it feels a little empty — a museum focused on wall displays and Saint Francis Xavier. From there I still had a long way to walk to Leyre. This could be shorted by taking a taxi, but I was feeling fresh and invincible so I walked it. 29 k in total from Ruesta with a steep uphill climb at the end to the monastery. All off the camino, so unmarked.
Leyre had attracted me for the organ music and the Gregorian chant service. You can stay in the hotel on site and the is a bar, restaurant and tours. I enjoyed it, but I don’t think it was worth the large detour to get there and back. Walking down from Leyre is nice, and allows for you to explore the Foz de Lumbier. After the gorge, reward yourself with a lunch or second breakfast at Hotel Irubide— highly recommended. Delicious.
I had planned to get a taxi to take me back to the main Aragon camino, but it seemed that all the numbers I tried weren’t working. So I set out walking to meet up with my group in Monreal. I made it, but at 38km it was really too much for me and led to some foot tendonitis that I’m still recovering from 5 days later. So don’t do what I did.
Monreal to Puente la Reina did not have much in the way of services ( this was the case for most of the Aragones) so it was best to bring your own lunch and snacks. But I really enjoyed walking among the fields, and was fortunate enough to walk it alongside a Spanish farmer who could answer many of my questions about what was being grown.
Enuate was closed, listing only a few hours on the weekend when it might be open.
After 9 days on the Aragones, starting in Oloron and only seeing 6- 12 pilgrims each day, merging with the Camino Frances in Puente la Reina was a shock. So many pilgrims everywhere! But that allowed me to meet new people and enjoy the greater diversity of pilgrims on the way. I miss the intimacy of the Aragones, but I still have a long way to go on my journey and look forward to the steps ahead toward Santiago.
Thanks again to everyone who helped make this Aragones beginning to my camino such a special one. For those that are considering it, I would highly recommend it! October seemed like the perfect weather.
-Daniel
Going up and over the pass at Somport gives a feeling of accomplishment and a sense of transition as you move from France into Spain, from a wet environment to a dry one, and from a nice but reserved hospitality to a very warm one.
Canfranc station is in the process of being converted into a luxury hotel, so I could only peek through the windows. They are doing a great job, but I wonder how they can justify the funds.
The new albergue at Canfranc is great and the hospitaleros are really nice and helpful, especially to me who was still trying to figure out how this whole camino thing works. You might book ahead since this is very popular and COVID is limiting their spots. I know they had to turn some pilgrims away.
Jaca has plenty to see and do, but I was just content to eat and drink and soak up the warm street vibe. The municipal albergue was fine but you get a lot of street noise from the bar crowd walking on the street.
I took the bus up to San Juan de la Peña monastery and spent a few hours there. A cafeteria is open at the new one, but I didn’t try the food. The walk down is very fretful and not too steep, but it did make for a long day to get to Arrés. I’m happy I went to Peña, but you should really the enjoy architecture/ history/hike down if you chose this route.
Arrés is a special and welcoming albergue run by great hospitaleros that change every two weeks. We received a warm welcome and a delicious home cooked meal. Great views and a bar.
Walking to Ruesta, I stopped at Artieda for a delicious lunch with another great view of the Aragon valley. Getting to Ruesta, I decided to take a trail higher up the mountain that took me in the back way to Ruesta. Fun since I felt like I was finding my own path, but not recommended since it was longer and more elevation.
As others have said, Ruesta is special. Delicious food, interesting people, and so much atmosphere among the ruins.
Most others in the group headed to Sangüisa, but I detoured to Javier castle, then the monastery at Leyre. Jarvier castle was nice to see for what living in a castle was like, and it is in great condition although it feels a little empty — a museum focused on wall displays and Saint Francis Xavier. From there I still had a long way to walk to Leyre. This could be shorted by taking a taxi, but I was feeling fresh and invincible so I walked it. 29 k in total from Ruesta with a steep uphill climb at the end to the monastery. All off the camino, so unmarked.
Leyre had attracted me for the organ music and the Gregorian chant service. You can stay in the hotel on site and the is a bar, restaurant and tours. I enjoyed it, but I don’t think it was worth the large detour to get there and back. Walking down from Leyre is nice, and allows for you to explore the Foz de Lumbier. After the gorge, reward yourself with a lunch or second breakfast at Hotel Irubide— highly recommended. Delicious.
I had planned to get a taxi to take me back to the main Aragon camino, but it seemed that all the numbers I tried weren’t working. So I set out walking to meet up with my group in Monreal. I made it, but at 38km it was really too much for me and led to some foot tendonitis that I’m still recovering from 5 days later. So don’t do what I did.
Monreal to Puente la Reina did not have much in the way of services ( this was the case for most of the Aragones) so it was best to bring your own lunch and snacks. But I really enjoyed walking among the fields, and was fortunate enough to walk it alongside a Spanish farmer who could answer many of my questions about what was being grown.
Enuate was closed, listing only a few hours on the weekend when it might be open.
After 9 days on the Aragones, starting in Oloron and only seeing 6- 12 pilgrims each day, merging with the Camino Frances in Puente la Reina was a shock. So many pilgrims everywhere! But that allowed me to meet new people and enjoy the greater diversity of pilgrims on the way. I miss the intimacy of the Aragones, but I still have a long way to go on my journey and look forward to the steps ahead toward Santiago.
Thanks again to everyone who helped make this Aragones beginning to my camino such a special one. For those that are considering it, I would highly recommend it! October seemed like the perfect weather.
-Daniel