Unable to finish my camino Portuguese

[Gailsie]

After two months, I am finally able to confess on this forum that I had to quit walking my camino in Ponte de Lima, after walking for only four days.

I had started in Porto, actually Matsoinhos, and walked to Vila do Conde the first day, Barcelos the second day and took a day to rest there as I was exhausted and my feet were really sore. Then spent the night at Fernanda's, what a wonderful experience and another difficult walk into Ponte de Lima. Just looking at the mountain ahead for the next day, I knew that I could not continue.

The boots that I wore on the Frances did not serve me well on the Portuguese route. I had no blisters on my first camino but ended up with three on those 4 days of walking. I hated walking on the cobblestones, they were murder on my feet, the hard bottoms on my boots did not help. The ankle that I had injured the summer before started acting up and I was really hobbling at the end of the each walking day. I also absolutely hated the road walking and was terrified in a couple of situations when two cars met and there was no room for me.

I did love the scenery and the Portuguese people are so kind and welcoming. I was walking alone and had a difficult time following the arrows as I was watching where I was walking so I missed quite a few arrows and people were so kind to honk, yell, signal where I should have turned. The weather was great, loved the food and the peach ice tea, pasteis de natas (wish I could get them here).

Because I ended up leaving the camino early, I went to the Algarve to recuperate and enjoyed that. Since I was not able to walk much, the tourist apartment with a balcony facing the sea and wine helped me recover.

I don't write this to discourage anyone from walking the Portuguese route but to be aware of the cobblestones, amount of road walking.

Be sure to stay at Fernanda's in Lugar do Corgo. She and her husband are so welcoming, providing an abundant delicious meal and breakfast. Call ahead to be sure of a bed as it is well worth a stop.

I loved Porto and Lisbon and wish I had spent more time in each city, especially Lisbon as I was unable to walk as much as I wanted there. I stayed at Hotel do Chile, where Diogo works and it was a great place, quiet , in a great location and with a marvelous breakfast.

 

[MichaelSG]

That's a bummer for you but thank you very much for the post and warning. We leave in a month for Lisbon and I keep reminding my wife just how different it will likely be, not just compared to our Camino Frances, but more importantly, compared to the memory of our Camino Frances.

 

[Al the optimist]

Sorry to hear your disappointment. Such is life. We often assume because we have done something we can do something similar again. Thanks for sharing and reminding us all that the best laid plans etc. Buen Camino for next time.

 

[chilledKat]

Gailsie, I admire your honesty in sharing your story with us. I learnt from a very wise Forum member that All is Well. I got myself into my own dramas recently with my Camino not going as planned. We all desire to finish things, it's human nature. We think we know best. I now realise that things happen the way they are meant to. It takes courage to say, no this is not for me or no I can't do it. Far more than pushing ahead and being pig-headed like I was to finish. I ended up in a wheelchair not listening to my body so I really commend you for your decision.

Am glad the sea views and wine helped lift the mood. It's important to nurture the soul always

Blessings

 

[Gailsie]

Thanks Kat, I did follow your posting of your journey and difficulties and that helped me to admit my failure on this forum.

 

[chilledKat]

Thanks Kat, I did follow your posting of your journey and difficulties and that helped me to admit my failure on this forum.

Don't you see....you didn't fail!! Not one little bit. Kick that negative talk to the ground.

You showed up, how the hell is that failure? No Gailsie, you rock

 

[Magwood]

Hi @Gailsie. What a shame that you had to stop short, but it sounds as though you made the most of your remaining time. I walked from Lisbon in May this year. It was hard work. Although there is less elevation on this route, it is far from flat. But you are right, the pounding along roads and cobbles, and often cobbled roads, takes its toll on the feet.

I came across more pilgrims with significant foot problems that demanded time off and/or public transport on the camino Portuguese than I did on the Frances. I think that because it is flatter, people walk harder and longer than they might on more challenging terrain.

At the beginning of my camino I was thinking that all the comments I had read about the difficulties of walking on cobbles were totally exaggerated - I wasn't having a problem. But as I progressed, so I found the cobbles more painful - they would search out every potential sore spot and probe right in.

I was wearing replacement off-the-shelf insoles, but I am considering getting some custom made ones for future caminos with as much padding as possible. I guess we all learn a bit more about ourselves with each camino.

It is good that you have the lovely cosy memory of Casa Fernanda to think back on. May your next camino be trouble free. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Kanga]

Thanks Kat, I did follow your posting of your journey and difficulties and that helped me to admit my failure on this forum.

Gailsie, did you get out your front door and show up on the trail? Yes! So where's the failure? When a toddler falls over, is that a failure? (I do a lot of toddler minding; please excuse the obsession). No! It's just learning. Eugene Bolt fell over just as many times as other kids - and look at him now.

It's not a failure, it wasn't a mistake, your path was just different to the one you anticipated. And isn't it wonderful and glorious that we don't know what is in store for us and that we can't anticipate everything?

 

[Dutch]

I read this and i think, cobbled stones, cobbled stones? What cobbled stones? But then i remember i walked several days with a pilgrim who had bad bad BAD blisters (golfball size) and we laughed every time we walked on those stones, telling him he got a nice blister massage AGAIN. He had an awfull time on those roads, but i guess he laughed the pain away.

I had no problems on those roads, so thats why i first thought....cobblers? huh? But yeah, there are quite a few of them.

Sorry to hear you did not get to finish your walk, but no reason to see this as failure. You went, you started and you finished...just a littler sooner then you hoped, but you are one more experience richer. That counts for something too, eventhough its not all positive as you hoped. I am sure the experience will make you stronger.

 

[flewitheagles]

gailsie,
I believe that the majority of folks here (and beyond) would agree that your experience was much more positive than you might imagine - in spite of your frustrations over having to listen to your body. Each of us has our story, I'm sure, about how we paid some penalty for our bit of hard-headedness! Some penalties seem greater than others. I'm not so sure that spending some time healing by the seashore (with a bottle of wine) isn't a type of pilgrimage of its own. As I often point out to my sons (now older than I wish to mention) that I've already won the lottery, I just didn't get the money..... Maybe you did your pilgrimage... it just wasn't a lot of kilometers....
Just a thought...

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I had started in Matsoinhos, and walked to Vila do Conde the first day, Barcelos the second day and took a day to rest there as I was exhausted and my feet were really sore. Then spent the night at Fernanda's, what a wonderful experience and another difficult walk into Ponte de Lima.

Those were some pretty healthy walking distances. When formerly-friendly-footwear becomes the enemy, there is not much you can do but stop and recover. As others have said, you make it sound like a pretty nice "vacation." There was more dangerous traffic ahead, so you saved yourself some mental anguish. The Camino Portugues has less demanding terrain than the Camino Frances, but it does use a lot of pavement. Congratulations regardless of the end point.

 

[Diogo92]

After two months, I am finally able to confess on this forum that I had to quit walking my camino in Ponte de Lima, after walking for only four days.

I had started in Porto, actually Matsoinhos, and walked to Vila do Conde the first day, Barcelos the second day and took a day to rest there as I was exhausted and my feet were really sore. Then spent the night at Fernanda's, what a wonderful experience and another difficult walk into Ponte de Lima. Just looking at the mountain ahead for the next day, I knew that I could not continue.

The boots that I wore on the Frances did not serve me well on the Portuguese route. I had no blisters on my first camino but ended up with three on those 4 days of walking. I hated walking on the cobblestones, they were murder on my feet, the hard bottoms on my boots did not help. The ankle that I had injured the summer before started acting up and I was really hobbling at the end of the each walking day. I also absolutely hated the road walking and was terrified in a couple of situations when two cars met and there was no room for me.

I did love the scenery and the Portuguese people are so kind and welcoming. I was walking alone and had a difficult time following the arrows as I was watching where I was walking so I missed quite a few arrows and people were so kind to honk, yell, signal where I should have turned. The weather was great, loved the food and the peach ice tea, pasteis de natas (wish I could get them here).

Because I ended up leaving the camino early, I went to the Algarve to recuperate and enjoyed that. Since I was not able to walk much, the tourist apartment with a balcony facing the sea and wine helped me recover.

I don't write this to discourage anyone from walking the Portuguese route but to be aware of the cobblestones, amount of road walking.

Be sure to stay at Fernanda's in Lugar do Corgo. She and her husband are so welcoming, providing an abundant delicious meal and breakfast. Call ahead to be sure of a bed as it is well worth a stop.

I loved Porto and Lisbon and wish I had spent more time in each city, especially Lisbon as I was unable to walk as much as I wanted there. I stayed at Hotel do Chile, where Diogo works and it was a great place, quiet , in a great location and with a marvelous breakfast.

No matter what happened, you have done it. Delete the bad from your head, look into the positive things, and you will see that probably it was better like this (trust me, you caught very good weather in Algarve ).

It was also great to meet you. We hope that you come back to Lisbon, either to visit, or to a next Caminho. I hope the best for you

 

[Esther Boe]

My husband and I just completed the walk from Porto to Santiago two weeks ago. My feet basically fell apart and I think it was because of the cobblestones and all the road walking. The shoes that I wore were Merrell hikers that had been used for multiple 10 mile and 20 mile hikes. I never had problems with my feet in these shoes, in fact, I did so well I decided to use them for the purpose of the trip. Instead, first day out I got multiple hot spots and the second and third days were terrible. We learned about compeed and the pharmacy world. You are so right about it being a tough path. We both struggled and without the support and help of fellow pilgrims we wouldn't have made it. However, you are right about the Portuguese people, they were terrific. Friendly and helpful. The scenery was beautiful and the wine was good too. Just the Roman roads kicked us around a bit. I do miss the Camino. From your post it seems that the Frances may not have such a difficult surface. We will consider that or the future.

 

[wayfarer]

Hi Gailsie, from someone who had to call short their Camino earlier this year I can tell you, it was not a failure, just a postponement, you will be back, no doubt. Get well and start planning your next Camino.

 

[amorfati1]

Ola Gailsie -
you did well to have gotten yourself to the Algarve to rest up and heal.
and yes - those road, cobbles and roman road are bloody murder to walk on for all those kilometers.
At the end of my first day of walking 11km on roads, i was lying on the bed, feet up the wall and thought that my left foot two middle toes have died the
'sudden toe death' - i couldn't feel the toes at all, and wobbled about quite a bit. - Never experienced anything like that before - nor since. Still don't have a clue what that was about. Most peculiar. The next day it was 16 km walking - and then my body claimed a rest day...--
So much what one encounters as a pilgrim (in life, on the path, wherever...) is not us 'calling the shots'.
one is at the mercy at so much! ... and few things in life make it so obvious/clear than the daring of a on-foot pilgrimage across roads, tracks, fields, woods, and muddy whatever's. one is exposed to the heat of the day, the winds, rain, fog, unknown terrain, unknown roads and people and customs...
A fold in ones sock can make for a miserable walk; a stumble over pebble or rock on the road, a mis-step across a puddle, a bite off some spoiled food or a drink of iffy-water, can derail ones journey, delay it or anything in between.
In a way, daring a pilgrimage is allowing oneself to be vulnerable. And all the 'apps' and gadgets in the worlds won't change that. (in my observation, they just distract from the recognition how very vulnerable we are as human beings)
And you dared -- and you walked, and had all the experiences, sights and encounters contained in those days that were 'yours'. if those days were 4 or 14 or 44... --- it matters little....
please don't trip about the word 'fail', but i am fond of this Beckett quote:
"Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better."
There is no universal PAB --- 'Pilgrim Assessment Board'
but you assessed your situation properly when you were in Ponte de Lima: "...Just looking at the mountain ahead for the next day, I knew that I could not continue...." - you assessed that right, honoring you and your body ... Bravo to that! .... and that's what matters, no?
very best wishes, Claudia

 

[Gailsie]

Thanks all for your kind words, especially the Beckett quote. I have been reading the forum again so I think there must be another camino in my future. I debated over the Portuguese or Frances route last time but I am thinking that maybe I will walk from Astorga to Santiago again - in a couple of years. I am still having problems with my ankle and will have to see about in the fall. But next time I will be sure that it is completely healed before I head across the ocean.

And to Diogo, I absolutely adore Lisbon and hopefully will be back. Because my feet were so bad I did not do much walking and there is so much more that I want to see. I did use the Hop on hop off bus and that was a godsend to get around and see some things.

 

[ranthr]

Hi Gailsie!
Thank you for the warning about the cobblestones. I also had to quit my camino this spring. Intended to walk south through Denmark and Germany but stopped after two days of walking on asfalt, wrong choice of shoes, a lot of pollen in the air and went home. So I put my plan of a long walk behind me. Instead I will be walking from Porto to Santiago, starting in two weeks.
Your post here gave me a problem. What kind of shoes will be the best for this camino? Mountainboots might be the best for the stones but perhaps not for the streches on hard road. Any advice?
Hope your legs will heal fast!

 

[Diogo92]

Hi Gailsie!
Thank you for the warning about the cobblestones. I also had to quit my camino this spring. Intended to walk south through Denmark and Germany but stopped after two days of walking on asfalt, wrong choice of shoes, a lot of pollen in the air and went home. So I put my plan of a long walk behind me. Instead I will be walking from Porto to Santiago, starting in two weeks.
Your post here gave me a problem. What kind of shoes will be the best for this camino? Mountainboots might be the best for the stones but perhaps not for the streches on hard road. Any advice?
Hope your legs will heal fast!

Well, that is a very personal question, to be honest. I don't consider that you need a pair of mountain boots with you for the Caminho Português, since the maximum height that you will rise, it’s located under 600m, so there isn't really high mountains for you to "climb". I think that a combination of comfortable shoes and one or two walking sticks to help you on the descents should be enough.

But, one thing that you should consider it's also the weather. Check the weather forecast, because you might need some waterproofing. This happened two days ago:

 

[Cool Dabbler]

My wife and I are starting from Porto on the 15 Sept. When we did the Camino Frances in 2012 I suffered badly with blisters. I intended wearing my Meindl boots on this Caminho but I am now aprehensive about the boots being too heavy and the soles being too hard for the cobble stones. The other alternative is for a pair of New Balance walking shoes. Although my wife did not get any blisters on the Camino Frances she is planning to switch from Brasher Supalite to Salomon Goretex trail shoes. Any advice would be appreciated as I had to quit the Camino Frances after 10 days on my first attempt but went back to finish the following year. I would hate it should happen again.

 

[MichaelSG]

I might just run into you on the Way Dabbler as I'll be passing through Porto about then. There is lots of anti-blister advice on the forum but what worked for me was wearing good Keen hiking shoes as well as liner socks under a good mid-weight wool hiking sock. I also used a little vaseline-type product between toes. The shoes needs to be well broken in (a good 150-200km or so) which also helps to get your feet in shape. Keep your socks dry or change them mid-walk if needed. Wear a different pair of shoes (sandles, Crocs, whatever) after arriving at the end of the day.

 

[edumad]

I intended on waling the Portuguese from Porto in 2013. I made my load as light as I could, 8.5 kg with water. I had trainers with many kms on them running and walking in the hills.
I walked out of the cathedral along the river. By the time I got to Matosinhos my feet were in pain and I wasn't even pushing very hard.
Soon, I realized I was having a blister on the bottom of my foot. I had taken care not to have blisters, but at the bottom of the feet was something unexpected.
Perhaps it was the constant hard surface underneath or being unaccustomed to the backpack.
By the next day I had a blister on both feet, on the same position. From trying to compensate for these, my right foot started to hurt, then grow red and swell. I limped into the albergue at Barcelinhos.
So after two days, I was ready to throw in the towel. Rested for a day and took some pills, my feet improved.
I decided I could still do it by bike, since it would be easier on the feet.
On I went until Briallos, had a stupid accident and hard crash hurting my knee badly. Managed to get into Caldas de Rei and the health center there.
Two warnings was enough, that year the Camino was not to be.

Some will be lucky and not get blisters, others will do all the preparation and still get them.Some will be lucky and not get blisters, others will do all the preparation and still get them.

There are people who endure gruelling pain in the Camino, some even compromise their health. You should think well if its something you are willing to do.
There is no shame in doing the Camino differently.

 

[ranthr]

After two months, I am finally able to confess on this forum that I had to quit walking my camino in Ponte de Lima, after walking for only four days.

I had started in Porto, actually Matsoinhos, and walked to Vila do Conde the first day, Barcelos the second day and took a day to rest there as I was exhausted and my feet were really sore. Then spent the night at Fernanda's, what a wonderful experience and another difficult walk into Ponte de Lima. Just looking at the mountain ahead for the next day, I knew that I could not continue.

The boots that I wore on the Frances did not serve me well on the Portuguese route. I had no blisters on my first camino but ended up with three on those 4 days of walking. I hated walking on the cobblestones, they were murder on my feet, the hard bottoms on my boots did not help. The ankle that I had injured the summer before started acting up and I was really hobbling at the end of the each walking day. I also absolutely hated the road walking and was terrified in a couple of situations when two cars met and there was no room for me.

I did love the scenery and the Portuguese people are so kind and welcoming. I was walking alone and had a difficult time following the arrows as I was watching where I was walking so I missed quite a few arrows and people were so kind to honk, yell, signal where I should have turned. The weather was great, loved the food and the peach ice tea, pasteis de natas (wish I could get them here).

Because I ended up leaving the camino early, I went to the Algarve to recuperate and enjoyed that. Since I was not able to walk much, the tourist apartment with a balcony facing the sea and wine helped me recover.

I don't write this to discourage anyone from walking the Portuguese route but to be aware of the cobblestones, amount of road walking.

Be sure to stay at Fernanda's in Lugar do Corgo. She and her husband are so welcoming, providing an abundant delicious meal and breakfast. Call ahead to be sure of a bed as it is well worth a stop.

I loved Porto and Lisbon and wish I had spent more time in each city, especially Lisbon as I was unable to walk as much as I wanted there. I stayed at Hotel do Chile, where Diogo works and it was a great place, quiet , in a great location and with a marvelous breakfast.

I now understand what you said about the cobbledstoned road after walking several km on them in heavy traffic. The last seven km I think, before Vila do Conde was remarked to a route on road I think, since there was a point where they had crossed out the yellow arrows. The stones were really heavy, worse than the sand. And I wore boots meant for mountains/ hard enough to resist the stones.
The first part was beautiful, nearly only the sound from the ocean but tough as well. I really have not been as tired as today on any of my climbs over Pyrenees. Went to Povoa de Varzim and took the bus to Barcelos to avoid more roads tomorrow. Since I consider myself as a touristperegrina I do not have bad concience about that. By the way I met 8 pergrinas on my way, so I did not feel alone.

 

[Camembert]

I now understand what you said about the cobbledstoned road after walking several km on them in heavy traffic. The last seven km I think, before Vila do Conde was remarked to a route on road I think, since there was a point where they had crossed out the yellow arrows. The stones were really heavy, worse than the sand. And I wore boots meant for mountains/ hard enough to resist the stones.
The first part was beautiful, nearly only the sound from the ocean but tough as well. I really have not been as tired as today on any of my climbs over Pyrenees. Went to Povoa de Varzim and took the bus to Barcelos to avoid more roads tomorrow. Since I consider myself as a touristperegrina I do not have bad concience about that. By the way I met 8 pergrinas on my way, so I did not feel alone.

The first days are the toughest. Muscle pain, getting used to the backpack,acidified muscles ect. After some days you will get in a flow and get used to it all.
Try to get in the rhythm of the walking before you get to the hardest part, the Labruja mountain beyond Ponte de Lima and the steep slopes downwards after Redondela.
Godt tur !

 

[Catharina56]

Thank you for your honest report about your experience on the Camino Portugués. At least you have reached Casa da Fernanda, which is already something. I am starting my first camino ever from Porto in two weeks time. I will follow the coast until Vila do Conde to scip a lot of traffic and to scip a lot of industrial areas. For me it will be a big challenge, since I couldn't do my training since a bad lower back pain recently and my flight ticket was bought last December! But I know that I will enjoy my time as well in lovely Portugal when the camino doesn't work well to me. Public transportation is well organised in Portugal - and relatively cheap -, distances are not far, the food is lovely (yes, indeed, the pastais de nata, I am addicted to it!) and lodging is no problem to find. Soon I will fly to Porto. I feel I fly back home since I love that city too much. From Santiago de Compostela are buses back to Porto (+ Porto Airport) or the train to Vigo and from there the AUTNA-bus to Porto/Lisbon/Algarve. See http://www.autna.com/venta/index.php (train + bus alltogether about €22 to Porto/Porto Airport, €42 to Lisbon, €52 to Algarve).

 

[Magwood]

In did quite well on the Portuguese from Lisbon - I had a matching pair of blisters on both feet in exactly the same places. Nothing too serious. I feel sure these were caused by my replacement insoles. They had ridges of padding that were meant to be under the ball of my foot, but as I have long toes these ridges were between the base of my toes and the ball, which is where the blisters occurred.

I would buy replacement insoles again, but a different design - without ridges, just continuous padding.

Be sure that if you have any sore spots, the cobbles will seek them out and grind into them.

I saw many pilgrims with horrendous blisters on this route. Take it easy - don't push yourself.

 

[Camembert]

In did quite well on the Portuguese from Lisbon - I had a matching pair of blisters on both feet in exactly the same places. Nothing too serious. I feel sure these were caused by my replacement insoles. They had ridges of padding that were meant to be under the ball of my foot, but as I have long toes these ridges were between the base of my toes and the ball, which is where the blisters occurred.

I would buy replacement insoles again, but a different design - without ridges, just continuous padding.

Be sure that if you have any sore spots, the cobbles will seek them out and grind into them.

I saw many pilgrims with horrendous blisters on this route. Take it easy - don't push yourself.

Hi Maggie I donot hope you will have "long toes " figuratively speaking.
In Dutch "long toes" means quickly being agitated

But I know what you mean. Good advice ,avoiding blisters !

Next year another caminho ?

My wife and I are preparing the next from Póvoa da Varzím ,coastal to Vigo and via the ruta de Salnés- beyond Pontevedra to the west to Vila Nova de Arousa and by ship to Padrón- to Santiago in May 2015.
When we are in Viana do Castelo we will make a detour to Fernanda and Jacinto again and go back to Viana to continue to Vigo and on.

Best regards
Albertinho

 

[hnguyen]

After two months, I am finally able to confess on this forum that I had to quit walking my camino in Ponte de Lima, after walking for only four days.

I had started in Porto, actually Matsoinhos, and walked to Vila do Conde the first day, Barcelos the second day and took a day to rest there as I was exhausted and my feet were really sore. Then spent the night at Fernanda's, what a wonderful experience and another difficult walk into Ponte de Lima. Just looking at the mountain ahead for the next day, I knew that I could not continue.

The boots that I wore on the Frances did not serve me well on the Portuguese route. I had no blisters on my first camino but ended up with three on those 4 days of walking. I hated walking on the cobblestones, they were murder on my feet, the hard bottoms on my boots did not help. The ankle that I had injured the summer before started acting up and I was really hobbling at the end of the each walking day. I also absolutely hated the road walking and was terrified in a couple of situations when two cars met and there was no room for me.

I did love the scenery and the Portuguese people are so kind and welcoming. I was walking alone and had a difficult time following the arrows as I was watching where I was walking so I missed quite a few arrows and people were so kind to honk, yell, signal where I should have turned. The weather was great, loved the food and the peach ice tea, pasteis de natas (wish I could get them here).

Because I ended up leaving the camino early, I went to the Algarve to recuperate and enjoyed that. Since I was not able to walk much, the tourist apartment with a balcony facing the sea and wine helped me recover.

I don't write this to discourage anyone from walking the Portuguese route but to be aware of the cobblestones, amount of road walking.

Be sure to stay at Fernanda's in Lugar do Corgo. She and her husband are so welcoming, providing an abundant delicious meal and breakfast. Call ahead to be sure of a bed as it is well worth a stop.

I loved Porto and Lisbon and wish I had spent more time in each city, especially Lisbon as I was unable to walk as much as I wanted there. I stayed at Hotel do Chile, where Diogo works and it was a great place, quiet , in a great location and with a marvelous breakfast.

Gailsie: so sorry to hear of your problems on the CP. I hope you can do it again some day. I too did the CF from SJPP with only minor problems. I've bought my plane ticket to Lisboa for the CP in October. I plan to wear the same boots (Ecco) I wore on the CF - hopefully with the same positive results. BTW, I admire and appreciate your honesty in reporting your inability to complete the camino this time. I believe you will do it again!!!

 

[Kanga]

Can I put in a word for people to consider the need for cushioning in the sole of your shoe? So many people get hung up on the idea of sturdy boots with ankle support, waterproof shoes, hard soles, etc, and too few think about walking on cobblestones and bitumen or concrete paths. I wear lightweight runners with mesh uppers but very good cushioning underneath - the sort of athletic shoes made for road running - and I've never had a problem with any surface.

 

[Dreamwalker33]

After two months, I am finally able to confess on this forum that I had to quit walking my camino in Ponte de Lima, after walking for only four days.

I had started in Porto, actually Matsoinhos, and walked to Vila do Conde the first day, Barcelos the second day and took a day to rest there as I was exhausted and my feet were really sore. Then spent the night at Fernanda's, what a wonderful experience and another difficult walk into Ponte de Lima. Just looking at the mountain ahead for the next day, I knew that I could not continue.

The boots that I wore on the Frances did not serve me well on the Portuguese route. I had no blisters on my first camino but ended up with three on those 4 days of walking. I hated walking on the cobblestones, they were murder on my feet, the hard bottoms on my boots did not help. The ankle that I had injured the summer before started acting up and I was really hobbling at the end of the each walking day. I also absolutely hated the road walking and was terrified in a couple of situations when two cars met and there was no room for me.

I did love the scenery and the Portuguese people are so kind and welcoming. I was walking alone and had a difficult time following the arrows as I was watching where I was walking so I missed quite a few arrows and people were so kind to honk, yell, signal where I should have turned. The weather was great, loved the food and the peach ice tea, pasteis de natas (wish I could get them here).

Because I ended up leaving the camino early, I went to the Algarve to recuperate and enjoyed that. Since I was not able to walk much, the tourist apartment with a balcony facing the sea and wine helped me recover.

I don't write this to discourage anyone from walking the Portuguese route but to be aware of the cobblestones, amount of road walking.

Be sure to stay at Fernanda's in Lugar do Corgo. She and her husband are so welcoming, providing an abundant delicious meal and breakfast. Call ahead to be sure of a bed as it is well worth a stop.

I loved Porto and Lisbon and wish I had spent more time in each city, especially Lisbon as I was unable to walk as much as I wanted there. I stayed at Hotel do Chile, where Diogo works and it was a great place, quiet , in a great location and with a marvelous breakfast.

Like how you ended your journey! I only wish I could travel! Had retinal reattach meant surgery in Pamplona (5 days out) and they put a gas bubble in my eye, so I can not rise more than 300 ft in elevation. Pamplona is a beautiful city and we have 3-4 wks to explore.

 

[Gailsie]

Oh Dreamwalker, I was sorry to read your thread about your eye surgery. Not really what you want to happen at all but definitely not on the Camino. I hope all is going well and know that you are in my prayers. I have myopic degeneration and for years have been warned about the possibility of retinal detachment. Have kept traveling and hoped that if it happened I would be at home. I guess if you have to be stuck anywhere then Pamplona is not a bad place to be.

 

[Gailsie]

I found out on my train travels in Portugal that people over 65 years of age receive a substantial discount on train tickets - 50%. I had my passport to prove my age and welcomed the savings.