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Camino Ingles, The English Way, The Celtic Way from Reading

John R McLean

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Last: 2023 Camino Primitivo, Muxia, Finisterre
Here is a brief outline of our Camino from Reading UK to Santiago de Compostella via the Camino Ingles.
Day 1 April 7th Reading to Little London.
Reading is very Pilgrim friendly, great signage. Interesting Abbey ruins.
Very muddy, many detours and blocked trails.
Excellent lunch at The Horse and Groom Pub in Mortimer and a stamp.
Amazing ruins of the Roman city of Silchester
Hay Loft Air bnb in Little London right on the trail. Fantastic hosts, great 1st night.
Day 2 Little London to Dummer
On trail all day with no detours.
Queen Inn in Dummer is closed on Monday
Lunch/Dinner at the Sun Inn. Stayed at Tower Hill House. Very nice owner who messaged us while we were at the Sun Inn. It was pouring rain, so he offered to drive us back.
Day 3 Dummer to Itchen Abbas ( a wonderful day on the trail)
Awesome village of Preston Candover. Very proud of their community run store. Very pilgrim friendly. Great cake. Supplies as needed. Huge supporters of the Camino. Offering accommodation or even pitch in the yard.
New Alresford (lovely village) pub, Horse and Groom, stamp and Pilgrim friendly. The Bush Inn, stamp, beautiful pub. Muddy trails to The Plough at Itchen Abbas. We stayed here at the awesome pub. Staff, meals and rooms were perfect. All staff are very proud of this place. Highly recommend.
Day 4 Itchen Abbas to Winchester
A short day to have time to explore the city and Cathedral. Excellent choice.
Stayed at the BnB The Black Hole. Great breakfast. Crazy quirky pub next door called The Black Boy. Pilgrims get into the Cathedral for free. Amazing city to explore.
Day 5 Winchester to Southampton
Another day of major detours because of flooding along the Itchen River.
Great stop to get the Pilgrim's dole at St Cross Church. All the ladies there were so nice.
Pilgrim friendly stop at the Bridge Inn on trail. Barman was very aware and supportive of the Camino.
Detoured up through Otterbourne and great lunch at the Old Forge Pub.
Long slog off trail due to flooding from Otterbourne all the way into Southampton, through industrial, commercial and residential areas. Not a nice route.
God's Tower closed. Got our Compostella next door at the Platform Tavern. The young guys behind the bar were enthusiastic about our walk and we got a stamp.
We stayed at the Leonardo Southern Grand Hotel. Great rooms, overpriced and mediocre meal.
Day 6 Southampton to Portsmouth (Google Maps route along the waterfront and streets to the ferry)
Propper old boozer of a pub beside the terminal. The Ship and Castle, busy, fun, old school. Loved it.
Boarded the ferry to Santander.
Cabin for four with upgraded lounge access. The lounge access seemed well worth it to us. Rooms were pretty good with decent sized private bathroom and shower. All in all it was a cool experience to take the ferry journey as part of our Camino Ingles.
Day 7 on the ferry.
Day 8 Arrive in Santander. Clear security and customs quickly, got a pilgrim stamp at the information office. Walked to the bus station but got a cab from there to the airport to pick up our rental car. Drove to A Coruna. Very nice drive along the north of Spain with the Camino del Norte intersecting at various locations. Easy car drop off and quick cab ride to the train station.
Train to Ferrol. Stayed in the Paradores right near mile marker zero. Really delicious dinner at the Bla Bla Cafe.
Day 9 Ferrol to Pontedueme
Beautiful day, forests, flowers and beach walk with our boots off into Pontedueme. Nice beverage stop along the waterfront, dinner in the square near our apartment rental.
Day 10 Pontedueme to Betanzos
Steep right out of town. Lots of up and down but a great day of walking. Cool donoativo for drinks at the top of one particularly long climb. Nice hostal and amazing food at Portico Hostal.
Day 11 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma. Big ups day. Casa Avelina lives up to the hype lol. The ladies there are amazing. Stayed at the Albergue San Lorenzo, pilgrim meal at the Casa Grana. The hostel is super clean, nice rooms with chargers at each bed.
Day 12 Hospital de Bruma to Sigueiro
Long day with a stretch beside the highway. Lots of pilgrims joining after the merge of A Coruna and Ferrol routes.
Stayed in a nice apartment very close to the centre. Pilgrims filling the outdoor bar tables for dinner and drinks.
Day 13 Sigueiro to Santiago
Nice short day into Santiago. A great day into the Cathedral. Zero circus like atmosphere like the last day on the Camino Frances. Very pleasant, meander with the friends met along the Camino.
Easy, no line up Compostella at the pilgrim office.
Great Camino. April might not have been the best time for the England section but to the flooding a trail closures but it definitely is worth doing.
 
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Great write up @John R McLean, thank you.
What sort of prices were you paying for accommodation on the UK stages?
England was expensive when compared to Spain as we expected. However we were splitting three ways which helps when having to stay in pubs, hotels etc. (Canadian dollars)
Reading: $213
Little london $223
Dummer $238
Itchen Abbas $411
Winchester $323
Southampton $197
 
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Here is a brief outline of our Camino from Reading UK to Santiago de Compostella via the Camino Ingles.
Day 1 April 7th Reading to Little London.
Reading is very Pilgrim friendly, great signage. Interesting Abbey ruins.
Very muddy, many detours and blocked trails.
Excellent lunch at The Horse and Groom Pub in Mortimer and a stamp.
Amazing ruins of the Roman city of Silchester
Hay Loft Air bnb in Little London right on the trail. Fantastic hosts, great 1st night.
Day 2 Little London to Dummer
On trail all day with no detours.
Queen Inn in Dummer is closed on Monday
Lunch/Dinner at the Sun Inn. Stayed at Tower Hill House. Very nice owner who messaged us while we were at the Sun Inn. It was pouring rain, so he offered to drive us back.
Day 3 Dummer to Itchen Abbas ( a wonderful day on the trail)
Awesome village of Preston Candover. Very proud of their community run store. Very pilgrim friendly. Great cake. Supplies as needed. Huge supporters of the Camino. Offering accommodation or even pitch in the yard.
New Alresford (lovely village) pub, Horse and Groom, stamp and Pilgrim friendly. The Bush Inn, stamp, beautiful pub. Muddy trails to The Plough at Itchen Abbas. We stayed here at the awesome pub. Staff, meals and rooms were perfect. All staff are very proud of this place. Highly recommend.
Day 4 Itchen Abbas to Winchester
A short day to have time to explore the city and Cathedral. Excellent choice.
Stayed at the BnB The Black Hole. Great breakfast. Crazy quirky pub next door called The Black Boy. Pilgrims get into the Cathedral for free. Amazing city to explore.
Day 5 Winchester to Southampton
Another day of major detours because of flooding along the Itchen River.
Great stop to get the Pilgrim's dole at St Cross Church. All the ladies there were so nice.
Pilgrim friendly stop at the Bridge Inn on trail. Barman was very aware and supportive of the Camino.
Detoured up through Otterbourne and great lunch at the Old Forge Pub.
Long slog off trail due to flooding from Otterbourne all the way into Southampton, through industrial, commercial and residential areas. Not a nice route.
God's Tower closed. Got our Compostella next door at the Platform Tavern. The young guys behind the bar were enthusiastic about our walk and we got a stamp.
We stayed at the Leonardo Southern Grand Hotel. Great rooms, overpriced and mediocre meal.
Day 6 Southampton to Portsmouth (Google Maps route along the waterfront and streets to the ferry)
Propper old boozer of a pub beside the terminal. The Ship and Castle, busy, fun, old school. Loved it.
Boarded the ferry to Santander.
Cabin for four with upgraded lounge access. The lounge access seemed well worth it to us. Rooms were pretty good with decent sized private bathroom and shower. All in all it was a cool experience to take the ferry journey as part of our Camino Ingles.
Day 7 on the ferry.
Day 8 Arrive in Santander. Clear security and customs quickly, got a pilgrim stamp at the information office. Walked to the bus station but got a cab from there to the airport to pick up our rental car. Drove to A Coruna. Very nice drive along the north of Spain with the Camino del Norte intersecting at various locations. Easy car drop off and quick cab ride to the train station.
Train to Ferrol. Stayed in the Paradores right near mile marker zero. Really delicious dinner at the Bla Bla Cafe.
Day 9 Ferrol to Pontedueme
Beautiful day, forests, flowers and beach walk with our boots off into Pontedueme. Nice beverage stop along the waterfront, dinner in the square near our apartment rental.
Day 10 Pontedueme to Betanzos
Steep right out of town. Lots of up and down but a great day of walking. Cool donoativo for drinks at the top of one particularly long climb. Nice hostal and amazing food at Portico Hostal.
Day 11 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma. Big ups day. Casa Avelina lives up to the hype lol. The ladies there are amazing. Stayed at the Albergue San Lorenzo, pilgrim meal at the Casa Grana. The hostel is super clean, nice rooms with chargers at each bed.
Day 12 Hospital de Bruma to Sigueiro
Long day with a stretch beside the highway. Lots of pilgrims joining after the merge of A Coruna and Ferrol routes.
Stayed in a nice apartment very close to the centre. Pilgrims filling the outdoor bar tables for dinner and drinks.
Day 13 Sigueiro to Santiago
Nice short day into Santiago. A great day into the Cathedral. Zero circus like atmosphere like the last day on the Camino Frances. Very pleasant, meander with the friends met along the Camino.
Easy, no line up Compostella at the pilgrim office.
Great Camino. April might not have been the best time for the England section but to the flooding a trail closures but it definitely is worth doing.
Thanks for posting this! I’m walking the Camino Frances in September, but live in London so this sounds like a super second Camino! Glad you enjoyed it 👍
 
Nothing for nothing! So nice to get a glimpse of another route towards the Camino Ingles!
especially as I am trundling my way through utility companies right now, as the time is nearing for changing over. local issue, not camino focus.
My pwn route to the Ingles was easy - living in Dublin, I only had to walk 32km to St James Information Centre, collecting whatever stamps I could garner.
You did, I trust, discover the answer to the search for the ground of your being...
Buen camino from here on in.
 
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Thanks for posting this! I’m walking the Camino Frances in September, but live in London so this sounds like a super second Camino! Glad you enjoyed it 👍


You might also fancy the Pilgrim’s Way to Canterbury. Start out from Southwark Cathedral - you can even call the Cathedral and request a blessing for when you start out.
 
You might also fancy the Pilgrim’s Way to Canterbury. Start out from Southwark Cathedral - you can even call the Cathedral and request a blessing for when you start out.
Yes indeed. I did part of it on my way to Canterbury to the start of the Via Francigena.
 
Nothing for nothing! So nice to get a glimpse of another route towards the Camino Ingles!
especially as I am trundling my way through utility companies right now, as the time is nearing for changing over. local issue, not camino focus.
My pwn route to the Ingles was easy - living in Dublin, I only had to walk 32km to St James Information Centre, collecting whatever stamps I could garner.
You did, I trust, discover the answer to the search for the ground of your being...
Buen camino from here on in.
We met a great kid from our hometown in Canada that is living and studying in Dublin who also started in Dublin and had an Irish pilgrim credential that he showed us.
 
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Here is a brief outline of our Camino from Reading UK to Santiago de Compostella via the Camino Ingles.
Day 1 April 7th Reading to Little London.
Reading is very Pilgrim friendly, great signage. Interesting Abbey ruins.
Very muddy, many detours and blocked trails.
Excellent lunch at The Horse and Groom Pub in Mortimer and a stamp.
Amazing ruins of the Roman city of Silchester
Hay Loft Air bnb in Little London right on the trail. Fantastic hosts, great 1st night.
Day 2 Little London to Dummer
On trail all day with no detours.
Queen Inn in Dummer is closed on Monday
Lunch/Dinner at the Sun Inn. Stayed at Tower Hill House. Very nice owner who messaged us while we were at the Sun Inn. It was pouring rain, so he offered to drive us back.
Day 3 Dummer to Itchen Abbas ( a wonderful day on the trail)
Awesome village of Preston Candover. Very proud of their community run store. Very pilgrim friendly. Great cake. Supplies as needed. Huge supporters of the Camino. Offering accommodation or even pitch in the yard.
New Alresford (lovely village) pub, Horse and Groom, stamp and Pilgrim friendly. The Bush Inn, stamp, beautiful pub. Muddy trails to The Plough at Itchen Abbas. We stayed here at the awesome pub. Staff, meals and rooms were perfect. All staff are very proud of this place. Highly recommend.
Day 4 Itchen Abbas to Winchester
A short day to have time to explore the city and Cathedral. Excellent choice.
Stayed at the BnB The Black Hole. Great breakfast. Crazy quirky pub next door called The Black Boy. Pilgrims get into the Cathedral for free. Amazing city to explore.
Day 5 Winchester to Southampton
Another day of major detours because of flooding along the Itchen River.
Great stop to get the Pilgrim's dole at St Cross Church. All the ladies there were so nice.
Pilgrim friendly stop at the Bridge Inn on trail. Barman was very aware and supportive of the Camino.
Detoured up through Otterbourne and great lunch at the Old Forge Pub.
Long slog off trail due to flooding from Otterbourne all the way into Southampton, through industrial, commercial and residential areas. Not a nice route.
God's Tower closed. Got our Compostella next door at the Platform Tavern. The young guys behind the bar were enthusiastic about our walk and we got a stamp.
We stayed at the Leonardo Southern Grand Hotel. Great rooms, overpriced and mediocre meal.
Day 6 Southampton to Portsmouth (Google Maps route along the waterfront and streets to the ferry)
Propper old boozer of a pub beside the terminal. The Ship and Castle, busy, fun, old school. Loved it.
Boarded the ferry to Santander.
Cabin for four with upgraded lounge access. The lounge access seemed well worth it to us. Rooms were pretty good with decent sized private bathroom and shower. All in all it was a cool experience to take the ferry journey as part of our Camino Ingles.
Day 7 on the ferry.
Day 8 Arrive in Santander. Clear security and customs quickly, got a pilgrim stamp at the information office. Walked to the bus station but got a cab from there to the airport to pick up our rental car. Drove to A Coruna. Very nice drive along the north of Spain with the Camino del Norte intersecting at various locations. Easy car drop off and quick cab ride to the train station.
Train to Ferrol. Stayed in the Paradores right near mile marker zero. Really delicious dinner at the Bla Bla Cafe.
Day 9 Ferrol to Pontedueme
Beautiful day, forests, flowers and beach walk with our boots off into Pontedueme. Nice beverage stop along the waterfront, dinner in the square near our apartment rental.
Day 10 Pontedueme to Betanzos
Steep right out of town. Lots of up and down but a great day of walking. Cool donoativo for drinks at the top of one particularly long climb. Nice hostal and amazing food at Portico Hostal.
Day 11 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma. Big ups day. Casa Avelina lives up to the hype lol. The ladies there are amazing. Stayed at the Albergue San Lorenzo, pilgrim meal at the Casa Grana. The hostel is super clean, nice rooms with chargers at each bed.
Day 12 Hospital de Bruma to Sigueiro
Long day with a stretch beside the highway. Lots of pilgrims joining after the merge of A Coruna and Ferrol routes.
Stayed in a nice apartment very close to the centre. Pilgrims filling the outdoor bar tables for dinner and drinks.
Day 13 Sigueiro to Santiago
Nice short day into Santiago. A great day into the Cathedral. Zero circus like atmosphere like the last day on the Camino Frances. Very pleasant, meander with the friends met along the Camino.
Easy, no line up Compostella at the pilgrim office.
Great Camino. April might not have been the best time for the England section but to the flooding a trail closures but it definitely is worth doing.
When I did the Ingles last September I met a Mexican priest who had started from Reading. He told me it was well worth doing, so definitely on my radar now.
 
When I did the Ingles last September I met a Mexican priest who had started from Reading. He told me it was well worth doing, so definitely on my radar now.
There seems to be a lot of support for it and at some point if the pilgrim numbers continue to rise, there may be a point that affordable accommodation options will develop. I'm really hoping so.
 
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Here is a brief outline of our Camino from Reading UK to Santiago de Compostella via the Camino Ingles.
Day 1 April 7th Reading to Little London.
Reading is very Pilgrim friendly, great signage. Interesting Abbey ruins.
Very muddy, many detours and blocked trails.
Excellent lunch at The Horse and Groom Pub in Mortimer and a stamp.
Amazing ruins of the Roman city of Silchester
Hay Loft Air bnb in Little London right on the trail. Fantastic hosts, great 1st night.
Day 2 Little London to Dummer
On trail all day with no detours.
Queen Inn in Dummer is closed on Monday
Lunch/Dinner at the Sun Inn. Stayed at Tower Hill House. Very nice owner who messaged us while we were at the Sun Inn. It was pouring rain, so he offered to drive us back.
Day 3 Dummer to Itchen Abbas ( a wonderful day on the trail)
Awesome village of Preston Candover. Very proud of their community run store. Very pilgrim friendly. Great cake. Supplies as needed. Huge supporters of the Camino. Offering accommodation or even pitch in the yard.
New Alresford (lovely village) pub, Horse and Groom, stamp and Pilgrim friendly. The Bush Inn, stamp, beautiful pub. Muddy trails to The Plough at Itchen Abbas. We stayed here at the awesome pub. Staff, meals and rooms were perfect. All staff are very proud of this place. Highly recommend.
Day 4 Itchen Abbas to Winchester
A short day to have time to explore the city and Cathedral. Excellent choice.
Stayed at the BnB The Black Hole. Great breakfast. Crazy quirky pub next door called The Black Boy. Pilgrims get into the Cathedral for free. Amazing city to explore.
Day 5 Winchester to Southampton
Another day of major detours because of flooding along the Itchen River.
Great stop to get the Pilgrim's dole at St Cross Church. All the ladies there were so nice.
Pilgrim friendly stop at the Bridge Inn on trail. Barman was very aware and supportive of the Camino.
Detoured up through Otterbourne and great lunch at the Old Forge Pub.
Long slog off trail due to flooding from Otterbourne all the way into Southampton, through industrial, commercial and residential areas. Not a nice route.
God's Tower closed. Got our Compostella next door at the Platform Tavern. The young guys behind the bar were enthusiastic about our walk and we got a stamp.
We stayed at the Leonardo Southern Grand Hotel. Great rooms, overpriced and mediocre meal.
Day 6 Southampton to Portsmouth (Google Maps route along the waterfront and streets to the ferry)
Propper old boozer of a pub beside the terminal. The Ship and Castle, busy, fun, old school. Loved it.
Boarded the ferry to Santander.
Cabin for four with upgraded lounge access. The lounge access seemed well worth it to us. Rooms were pretty good with decent sized private bathroom and shower. All in all it was a cool experience to take the ferry journey as part of our Camino Ingles.
Day 7 on the ferry.
Day 8 Arrive in Santander. Clear security and customs quickly, got a pilgrim stamp at the information office. Walked to the bus station but got a cab from there to the airport to pick up our rental car. Drove to A Coruna. Very nice drive along the north of Spain with the Camino del Norte intersecting at various locations. Easy car drop off and quick cab ride to the train station.
Train to Ferrol. Stayed in the Paradores right near mile marker zero. Really delicious dinner at the Bla Bla Cafe.
Day 9 Ferrol to Pontedueme
Beautiful day, forests, flowers and beach walk with our boots off into Pontedueme. Nice beverage stop along the waterfront, dinner in the square near our apartment rental.
Day 10 Pontedueme to Betanzos
Steep right out of town. Lots of up and down but a great day of walking. Cool donoativo for drinks at the top of one particularly long climb. Nice hostal and amazing food at Portico Hostal.
Day 11 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma. Big ups day. Casa Avelina lives up to the hype lol. The ladies there are amazing. Stayed at the Albergue San Lorenzo, pilgrim meal at the Casa Grana. The hostel is super clean, nice rooms with chargers at each bed.
Day 12 Hospital de Bruma to Sigueiro
Long day with a stretch beside the highway. Lots of pilgrims joining after the merge of A Coruna and Ferrol routes.
Stayed in a nice apartment very close to the centre. Pilgrims filling the outdoor bar tables for dinner and drinks.
Day 13 Sigueiro to Santiago
Nice short day into Santiago. A great day into the Cathedral. Zero circus like atmosphere like the last day on the Camino Frances. Very pleasant, meander with the friends met along the Camino.
Easy, no line up Compostella at the pilgrim office.
Great Camino. April might not have been the best time for the England section but to the flooding a trail closures but it definitely is worth doing.
Great info, I'm starting the St James Way, from Reading on the 10th May, hopefully the canal/river levels will have dropped, planning on 5 days to Southampton, the camino Ingles in Sept, good to hear about the availability of stamps....
 
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Because that is one of the names that it is called.
I have to admit I’ve never heard it called that, and I have walked a section of it. By the end of the 6th century that part of England had been thoroughly overrun by Anglo-Saxons (hence the name England) and by the time pilgrimage to Santiago reached its peak, the Normans were in charge, so any Celtic connection would be unlikely.
 
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I’m, no? Your link to the Celtic Way does not show the route you walked at all. The UK pilgrims’ group has waymarked this route and has a guide, both of which name it the “St James Way”
I did not walk it. I let my fingers do the walking! I looked up Celtic Way in England/UK, and the website I attached includes this sentence: Read more about The Celtic Way on the official website. See post 18.
 
I did not walk it. I let my fingers do the walking! I looked up Celtic Way in England/UK, and the website I attached includes this sentence: Read more about The Celtic Way on the official website. See post 18.
Yes, I understand that. While your link IS to the Celtic Way, that is a completely different path than the St James Way from Reading to the coast.
 
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Yes, I understand that. While your link IS to the Celtic Way, that is a completely different path than the St James Way from Reading to the coast.
Ok. Normally, I would let this go. Why are you insisting, as I see it, in apparently correcting me? I was just trying to support the person who had posted about the Celtic Way being a thing. Amen punto.
Once more, said she to herself, sit well back from the keyboard. 😁
 
I have to admit I’ve never heard it called that, and I have walked a section of it. By the end of the 6th century that part of England had been thoroughly overrun by Anglo-Saxons (hence the name England) and by the time pilgrimage to Santiago reached its peak, the Normans were in charge, so any Celtic connection would be unlikely.
I think the name "Celtic Way" in this case refers to the section from A Coruña onwards, right? As opposed to the Ingles from Ferrol.

But either way, most of the routes are not called after their location but after the people who walk it. The Frances was the route most French people used, but not located in France; the Ingles was the route used by English people, but not located in England.
So a Celtic Way through non-Celtic lands would make sense to me, if it was a route people from Ireland or Wales used.
 
Last edited:
I have to admit I’ve never heard it called that, and I have walked a section of it. By the end of the 6th century that part of England had been thoroughly overrun by Anglo-Saxons (hence the name England) and by the time pilgrimage to Santiago reached its peak, the Normans were in charge, so any Celtic connection would be unlikely.
I believe it refers to it's history once in Galicia. I could be wrong but it would make sense.
 
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How did you decide to start at El Ferrol and nor A Coruna?
Lovely write up thanks
 
How did you decide to start at El Ferrol and nor A Coruna?
Lovely write up thanks
Only because it was a bit longer and the 1st couple of stages looked interesting to Pontedueme and Betanzos.
 
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