LIVE from the Camino A convoluted family affair

[hel&scott]

I leave today on my convoluted journey to get me to the start of my Camino. Unlike past trips where we simply set off and went where the fancy took us, this time I am coordinating with other family members as we each make our own different way to Santiago and on to Finisterre.

I'm tired before I even start, organising care for stock, the farm, aged parents, my dog and house. I thought it was bad enough when a giant gum tree landed on the farrowing sheds and had to be cut up before I left. But today I had to deal with emergency water systems repair after someone drove over the irrigation pipes and ripped them out of the field. Then dealing with a grumpy boar who can't understand why he has to wait another fortnight before being turned out with the sows. Still I will soon leave all of this behind me and just focus on carrying enough water to get me to the next village.

Given early posts it looks like there is a veritable invasion in the Vdlp thus September, I may see you out there. I'll be the one trying to smuggle piglets into their pack to diversify my farms stud.

 

[domigee]

Now you can relax. Have a good journey

 

[nycwalking]

Logistics managed.

Buen camino to all of you.

 

[VNwalking]

OMG.
After all that, may you have a super buen Camino, Hel!
You have a long journey ahead - may it be easy and comfortable.

 

[lt56ny]

Please please let us know about your Camino. I have watched some videos lately of VDLP. I am walking the Norte this year and want to walk VDLP next year. It looks like it is made for me. Just wondering about the heat. I was thinking of starting from Sevilla in mid October. With climate change I imagine you may have some tough days temperature wise. Please take lots of water, get one of those reflective umbrellas and don't challenge the heat. But I have a feeling you already know all this and a lot more!!

 

[Zoula]

Buen Camino, looking forward to reading your posts and hoping all goes well for your family!

 

[Paladina]

After your farm travails the VdlP should be a walk in the park. Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, Hel, I am sure this is going to be a very special camino for you. Boars and water supply notwithstanding.
I don’t know if you like to post while walking, but know that there is a substantial group of Vdlp groupies who would love to follow along remotely. Wishing you the very best, abrazos and buen camino, Laurie

 

[Bunclody1]

I leave today on my convoluted journey to get me to the start of my Camino. Unlike past trips where we simply set off and went where the fancy took us, this time I am coordinating with other family members as we each make our own different way to Santiago and on to Finisterre.

I'm tired before I even start, organising care for stock, the farm, aged parents, my dog and house. I thought it was bad enough when a giant gum tree landed on the farrowing sheds and had to be cut up before I left. But today I had to deal with emergency water systems repair after someone drove over the irrigation pipes and ripped them out of the field. Then dealing with a grumpy boar who can't understand why he has to wait another fortnight before being turned out with the sows. Still I will soon leave all of this behind me and just focus on carrying enough water to get me to the next village.

Given early posts it looks like there is a veritable invasion in the Vdlp thus September, I may see you out there. I'll be the one trying to smuggle piglets into their pack to diversify my farms stud.

Hey Hel&Scot, how are ye now and how is the way treating you ?
I am in Casar de Caceres, relaxing
John.

 

[laineylainey]

Start next week from Mérida, can´t wait now that it looks as though the temps have dropped a bit??
Just wondering if the Albergue Embalse at Alcantara is still closed, have you heard or know John?
Good luck Hel&Scott & John, any advice or updates would be cheerfully welcomed!

 

[hel&scott]

I am currently soaking my foot in a bucket and drinking Estrella after a 27km march around Barcelona visiting the usual haunts. I started this thread when I left home so it has covered a tortuous route of planes, trains and automobiles as I make my way to the start of actual walking. Scott once worked out that it was close to 20,000 kms from home to Finisterre so excuse me if I auto assist to get to Spain. Tomorrow I head to Merida, for those interested in logistics this is a train to Madrid and then transfer to a slow train to Merida.

@Bunclody1 you are too fast for me mate, unless you break down and recoup at a bar I'll miss you, all the best for your walk, keep us all posted on Embase Alburgue.

 

[laineylainey]

Hope you enjoy the Estrella and foot soak!
Starting from Mérida next week!
I phoned the Embalse this morning and he said they are open. Would be great to hear it is.
Would you have time to post bits and pieces of your VdLP? I would love to hear what sort of weather it is as it looked still quite hot last week?
Elaine

 

[hel&scott]

Hope you enjoy the Estrella and foot soak!
Starting from Mérida next week!
I phoned the Embalse this morning and he said they are open. Would be great to hear it is.
Would you have time to post bits and pieces of your VdLP? I would love to hear what sort of weather it is as it looked still quite hot last week?
Elaine

Barcelona is very temperate, they say it's rained a lot here recently and the heat has gone. Last time we walked the Vdlp in Sept Oct it was also ok, hot out of Seville but got frosty around Salamanca and wet in Gallicia, looks to be similar this year.

Beer is cold, life is good.

 

[kelleymac]

I leave today on my convoluted journey to get me to the start of my Camino. Unlike past trips where we simply set off and went where the fancy took us, this time I am coordinating with other family members as we each make our own different way to Santiago and on to Finisterre.

I'm tired before I even start, organising care for stock, the farm, aged parents, my dog and house. I thought it was bad enough when a giant gum tree landed on the farrowing sheds and had to be cut up before I left. But today I had to deal with emergency water systems repair after someone drove over the irrigation pipes and ripped them out of the field. Then dealing with a grumpy boar who can't understand why he has to wait another fortnight before being turned out with the sows. Still I will soon leave all of this behind me and just focus on carrying enough water to get me to the next village.

Given early posts it looks like there is a veritable invasion in the Vdlp thus September, I may see you out there. I'll be the one trying to smuggle piglets into their pack to diversify my farms stud.

Buen Camino Hell! I wish I could meet up with you, and walk a while.

I know what you mean about getting everything set and letting go (or trying to!). I'm leaving Friday (no camino this time! -- I'm walking the Coastal Causeway in Northern Ireland and then heading down to Oxford to drop off my older son-- then home again. -- Your farm will manage (barely!) without you! I'm off to clean the gutters, and then call the vet because I have a horse that needs attention before I go!

 

[laineylainey]

Hey Hel&Scot, how are ye now and how is the way treating you ?
I am in Casar de Caceres, relaxing
John.

John, not sure if you stayed in Aljucén, but if you did, did you notice if Albergue Anna Lena was still open?
I have been trying to contact Anna, as I am hoping to stay there on the 21st, but no reply. A couple of previous comments have suggested she may be closed? I know she has closed the Casa Rural La Boveda but thought the Albergue might still be going despite a bit of a spat (I think) between her and the newer private Albergue Rio?

 

[Saint Mike II]

I am currently soaking my foot in a bucket and drinking Estrella after a 27km march around Barcelona visiting the usual haunts. .....

Hola and a special "buen camino" - have a soft spot for the VDLP.
Now about that Estrella - since your in Barcelona I will make a sad assumption that your Estrella comes from the sad city (my joke) (check the labels). Now when you get a few KM up to the road from Seville or at least by Salamanca your Estrella will come from Galicia and you will notice the improvement (imho). Cheers

 

[peregrina2000]

John, not sure if you stayed in Aljucén, but if you did, did you notice if Albergue Anna Lena was still open?
I have been trying to contact Anna, as I am hoping to stay there on the 21st, but no reply. A couple of previous comments have suggested she may be closed? I know she has closed the Casa Rural La Boveda but thought the Albergue might still be going despite a bit of a spat (I think) between her and the newer private Albergue Rio?

Hi Lainey,
It was open in June but barely. Not much in the way of upkeep, I was told. Go to the main bar in town when you get there, across from the church, and they will know because they had the keys.

 

[Bunclody1]

John, not sure if you stayed in Aljucén, but if you did, did you notice if Albergue Anna Lena was still open?
I have been trying to contact Anna, as I am hoping to stay there on the 21st, but no reply. A couple of previous comments have suggested she may be closed? I know she has closed the Casa Rural La Boveda but thought the Albergue might still be going despite a bit of a spat (I think) between her and the newer private Albergue Rio?

Hey Lainainy, I did not stay there. I stayed in the alburgue near to Las Vagas bar/restaurant Casa Antonia I think it is called. It was grand. A big fiesta was taking place while I was there as it was Extremadura day, good fun

 

[laineylainey]

Hi Lainey,
It was open in June but barely. Not much in the way of upkeep, I was told. Go to the main bar in town when you get there, across from the church, and they will know because they had the keys.

Thanks Lauri, chances are it might be closed all together. I will report back when I am there.

 

[laineylainey]

Hey Lainainy, I did not stay there. I stayed in the alburgue near to Las Vagas bar/restaurant Casa Antonia I think it is called. It was grand. A big fiesta was taking place while I was there as it was Extremadura day, good fun

Thanks for that, sounds like a good night!
Would you do me another favour, if you plan staying in Alcantara at the Embalse, just confirm that it´s open? I did ring the other day and they said it was.
thanks and buen camino

 

[Bunclody1]

Thanks for that, sounds like a good night!
Would you do me another favour, if you plan staying in Alcantara at the Embalse, just confirm that it´s open? I did ring the other day and they said it was.
thanks and buen camino

Hi Laney, I am now in Carcabosa and I stayed in Grimaldo last night. I enjoyed it, lovley quiet village, one pilgrim was traveling with a horse and Small buggy and is going to Santiago ! Nice hospitilaro and clean alburgue.
I text a guy who I walked with for a few days and he stayed in Embalse last night and he enjoyed it. So it’s definatly open

 

[laineylainey]

Hi Laney, I am now in Carcabosa and I stayed in Grimaldo last night. I enjoyed it, lovley quiet village, one pilgrim was traveling with a horse and Small buggy and is going to Santiago ! Nice hospitilaro and clean alburgue.
I text a guy who I walked with for a few days and he stayed in Embalse last night and he enjoyed it. So it’s definatly open

Thank you so much the info about Embalse!
Sounds as though you are really enjoying your iterinary. Hope the weather has cooled down a bit. Carcabosa is on my list of places as well. Good luck and keep posting!

 

[Bunclody1]

Thank you so much the info about Embalse!
Sounds as though you are really enjoying your iterinary. Hope the weather has cooled down a bit. Carcabosa is on my list of places as well. Good luck and keep posting!

Thanks Lainey, I am really enjoying the VDLP. Low 30’s at the moment, lots of water needed.
Time for me to eat !

 

[hel&scott]

Phew, have made it to Merida, was still 30 degrees at 8pm as we headed up the hill to the parador, confession as we are staying 2 nights so my daughter can visit the sites we felt we better leave the alburgue beds to those who have walked.

@Saint Mike II, I use to work for the breweries so I usually check the label and date stamp, but I promise this thread will not be overtaken by a running cervesa commentary.

@laineylainey, we stayed at the refuge in Aljucen last time and it was basic but ok, this time around we have managed to get a pilgrim discount at the Roman Therma and assuming I can drag my daughter away from the ruins at Merida will stay there.

@Bunclody1 good to see you powering ahead, weather forcast is for clouds but no sign of rain and countryside looks pretty dry.

 

[laineylainey]

Enjoy Mérida! Staying there an extra day as well as it looks as though there is so much to see. Enjoy the Parador. Last year there was a thread about Paradors offering either a pilgrim discount or "senior" discount or maybe it was a senior pilgrim discount!!
Buen camino

 

[james mcev]

Best of luck! Buen Camino
James

 

[peregrina2000]

we are staying 2 nights so my daughter can visit the sites .

Since you are experienced with the Vdlp, you may already know this, but your comment prompted me to let others know that you can buy a combined ticket to visit the Alcazar (castle), Roman theater and amphitheater, the Casa Mitreo (a villa) and a couple of other sites.

It's a good deal pricewise, but one of its most valuable aspects is that you can buy the pass at any of the sites and then skip the line at the Roman Theater, which is the only one that ever gets lines. When I was there this year, the lines were blocks and blocks long to get into the theater. I had bought my pass in the Alcazaba (right near the roman bridge and very much worth a visit), so I skipped right by those crowds.

And as a retired old person, I got the whole shebang for 7.5€

Hope you enjoy every minute there, Hel, lucky you to be with your precious hija! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[hel&scott]

Excellent advice as ever @peregrina2000 , yes I remember the Merida Multi-pass but good tip about the best place to purchase it. Fran's face lit up like a christmass tree when we rounded the corner last night and saw the Miracle aqueduct, reminded me of when Scott first saw it, he raced across the grass and hugged it.

 

[hel&scott]

Yes @laineylainey the parador do give pilgrim discounts, I don't always stay in luxury, but this is a special trip and I need to make it up to my daughter who trudged through weeks of mud and cold with me on the Portuguse route.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Phew, have made it to Merida, was still 30 degrees at 8pm as we headed up the hill to the parador, confession as we are staying 2 nights so my daughter can visit the sites we felt we better leave the alburgue beds to those who have walked.

@Saint Mike II, I use to work for the breweries so I usually check the label and date stamp, but I promise this thread will not be overtaken by a running cervesa commentary.

Not a problem - fully endorse the two days in Merida (Parador no less). Enjoy those 2000 year old Roman ruins. You are about to embark on the section that was my first camino walk. It rained half the day. Cheers

 

[VNwalking]

Buen Camino Hel and Fran!
Starting with some days in Merida? Perfect. When you live where old means a few hundred years, 2000 is a source of awe...

And as a retired old person, I got the whole shebang for 7.5€

Hahaha...never mind that you can walk the legs of of most everyone, Laurie...

 

[hel&scott]

Short day today as it was 37'C so started at dawn, 7.30 sun up half an hour later but we're at Aljucen before the heat of the day set in. Passed the newly built alburgue in El Carrascaleo locals say it is open now but not the cafe that is supposed to service it. New alburgue at Aljucen looks good and is handily located opposite the new bar, by the shop and up the road to the Hogar. Good to see services improved since last time, don't miss the Therma, they offer pilgrim discount and meals, lovely green garden with a pool... I have had to break it to Fran that not every place on the Vdlp has a pool.

 

[laineylainey]

Since you are experienced with the Vdlp, you may already know this, but your comment prompted me to let others know that you can buy a combined ticket to visit the Alcazar (castle), Roman theater and amphitheater, the Casa Mitreo (a villa) and a couple of other sites.

It's a good deal pricewise, but one of its most valuable aspects is that you can buy the pass at any of the sites and then skip the line at the Roman Theater, which is the only one that ever gets lines. When I was there this year, the lines were blocks and blocks long to get into the theater. I had bought my pass in the Alcazaba (right near the roman bridge and very much worth a visit), so I skipped right by those crowds.

And as a retired old person, I got the whole shebang for 7.5€

Hope you enjoy every minute there, Hel, lucky you to be with your precious hija! Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks for that great bit of information Laurie. I only knew that there were many sites to see in Mérida but I didnt know about the combined ticket. Now on my "to remember" list!

 

[laineylainey]

Short day today as it was 37'C so started at dawn, 7.30 sun up half an hour later but we're at Aljucen before the heat of the day set in. Passed the newly built alburgue in El Carrascaleo locals say it is open now but not the cafe that is supposed to service it. New alburgue at Aljucen looks good and is handily located opposite the new bar, by the shop and up the road to the Hogar. Good to see services improved since last time, don't miss the Therma, they offer pilgrim discount and meals, lovely green garden with a pool... I have had to break it to Fran that not every place on the Vdlp has a pool.[/QUOT
@hel&scott , can you use the Therma and restaurant if you are not booked at the hotel? I am going to be there on a Friday but they don't have any rooms. Is it called the Aqua Libera?

 

[laineylainey]

also thanks for the update on the weather. I was packing my rucksack today and asking myself "now should I take gloves and waterproof trousers?"

 

[hel&scott]

Definitely take wet weather gear, maybe not the gloves but thin merino shirts and leggings, these can be used to layer up when it gets cold. And it does get cold, as you are walking south to north and onto a high plateau it cools quickly, Autumn can be unpredictable, forcast is for rain in a few days. So best to go with flexible light layers.

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks for that. Yes I am walking 3 weeks which will be the first time I have walked in October. Even last year on the Primitivo in Sept I was glad of my lightweight gloves first thing in the morning!
It's my constant dilemma- what to take definitely and what to take maybe!
Keep us posted with your trip please?
Enjoy that pool!

 

[hel&scott]

A beautiful days walking, guide by a pair of red cows. Have reached Alcuescar, snoozing safe in the alburgue while a thunderstorm has rolled into town.

Looking at my big toes, wondering how soon I will lose the toenails on these, oh will not the first time and they grow back.

 

[laineylainey]

For 3 years I kept coming back with a blackened big toe nail that eventually came off. In my case it was because my boots were too small although they seemed fine when I was walking!
Good luck with the weather tomorrow.

 

[hel&scott]

Amazing sunset and thunderstorm last night, heavy rain cooled things down to the 20s, but it was back up to the 30s for the slog into Valdesalor. Glad to see we don't have to sleep in the mayoral chamber, but in there damn fine alburgue complete with washing machine.

If you are eating here it's worth the extra minute to wander in down to bar Julia, food far superior to other places.

 

[peregrina2000]

Amazing sunset and thunderstorm last night, heavy rain cooled things down to the 20s, but it was back up to the 30s for the slog into Valdesalor. Glad to see we don't have to sleep in the mayoral chamber, but in there damn fine alburgue complete with washing machine.

If you are planning to stop and rest and luxuriate a bit in Caceres, I just want to pass on @SabineP's recommendation for a place to eat. It's Minerva, right smack dab in the Plaza Mayor. In my experience, it's hard to get good food in a plaza mayor, usually it's pretty mediocre and includes a charge for the view (which is understandable). But I thoroughly enjoyed a long Sunday lunch outside in the square here. All those little kids in their Sunday best, it was just wonderful. No pressure to move on from anyone -- the waiter who took my order was sure I wouldn't be able to down the entire tapas menú, which was pretty hefty for only 16 €. But I had been walking a lot the previous few days and told him I was sure I could handle it. The last course was some meat part that I didn´t eat, but the rest was delicious! They had a very good looking menú del día, too.

 

[laineylainey]

Planning on staying in Caceres so Minerva noted, thanks.

 

[hel&scott]

If you are planning to stop and rest and luxuriate a bit in Caceres, I just want to pass on @SabineP's recommendation for a place to eat. It's Minerva, right smack dab in the Plaza Mayor. In my experience, it's hard to get good food in a plaza mayor, usually it's pretty mediocre and includes a charge for the view (which is understandable). But I thoroughly enjoyed a long Sunday lunch outside in the square here. All those little kids in their Sunday best, it was just wonderful. No pressure to move on from anyone -- the waiter who took my order was sure I wouldn't be able to down the entire tapas menú, which was pretty hefty for only 16 €. But I had been walking a lot the previous few days and told him I was sure I could handle it. The last course was some meat part that I didn´t eat, but the rest was delicious! They had a very good looking menú del día, too.

May look at it for an evening meal, just back from a tour of the sites and had lunch at he Kabab place in the shady side of the square down from the information centre, cheap as chips, actually very good chips, and for vegetarian sick of plain lettuce it's good to have some falafel and garlic sauce on the greens for a change. Weather cooler just climbing to 32 in the afternoon.

Having a good look at pack contents to see what we can do without or send ahead.

 

[laineylainey]

When I am home I don't eat any cos lettuce because I get so much of it in Spain! Also thankfully cos lettuce doesn't grow well in my part of Ireland - yippee!
Any recommended "should see" places in Caceres?

 

[peregrina2000]

When I am home I don't eat any cos lettuce because I get so much of it in Spain! Also thankfully cos lettuce doesn't grow well in my part of Ireland - yippee!
Any recommended "should see" places in Caceres?

Just walking around the Renaissance core is delightful, you will almost think you are in Tusscany. Well, that may be an unintended slight, what I mean by that is that it has all the architectural harmony of a Renaissance Tuscan town but very few of the tourists. One place worth visiting IMO is the aljibe, the Moorish cistern. The museum above it is quite nice as well. http://museodecaceres.juntaex.es/web/view/portal/index/standardPage.php?id=28

Casa del Sol is one of the iconic facades, and it’s one of the ones that is more hidden: https://es.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casa_del_Sol

I had to look up “cos lettuce”, google tells me I call it Romaine. Probably one of the most disappointing culinary trends in Spain is that more and more restaurants are no longer serving leaf lettuce. Several years ago, I asked what the lettuce on my plate was and was told it was “eeethaybergay” (my poor phonetic spelling). Realized that “iceberg” had made its way directly into the Spanish vocabulary. This suggests to me that it is not native but a recent import, but certainly one that we would all be better off without.

 

[laineylainey]

Sorry I meant to say "iceberg" !! Hate the stuff.
Thanks for the recommendations. Seems a lovely City and only part of a day for me to appreciate it.

 

[hel&scott]

After shedding weight, thanks @ivar, we have made good progress and the good part about the stages outa Caceres is that you can take it slow or combine stages and flog yourself, we have done both.

Today we were rewarded by the sight of a family of imperial Eagles, we have seen them circling higher and higher in the air, but today they were on the ground next to us, amazing to see just how big they are.

Gotta go passing out after a full lunch, still mulling over tomorrow's options regarding the Caparra arch.

 

[peregrina2000]

... still mulling over tomorrow's options regarding the Caparra arch.

Much more exciting that what I am mulling over. So where are you today?

 

[laineylainey]

@hel&scott thank for your updates.
I have just got to Seville, so Mérida tomorrow - can't wait!
Gosh it's a bit warm here even at midnight. Fermanagh was a tad chillier when I left this morning.

 

[peregrina2000]

@hel&scott thank for your updates.
I have just got to Seville, so Mérida tomorrow - can't wait!
Gosh it's a bit warm here even at midnight. Fermanagh was a tad chillier when I left this morning.

Wow, I didn't remember you were heading out so soon. Best of everything @laineylainey, now you need your own "live" thread.

 

[VNwalking]

Today we were rewarded by the sight of a family of imperial Eagles, we have seen them circling higher and higher in the air, but today they were on the ground next to us, amazing to see just how big they are.

Lucky you!!
(I am unabashedly envious.)

 

[laineylainey]

Thank you

 

[hel&scott]

Much more exciting that what I am mulling over. So where are you today?

We have made it to the arch at Caparra, currently having a siesta in the shade, will walk on when it gets cooler. Today Fran found a giant eagle feather, it's as tall as her pack, so now her Camino name is Walks with Eagles.

 

[laineylainey]

Wonderful

 

[hel&scott]

I am in Banos, with a headache after too much road waking in the sun, still it's a lovely peaceful town and a good alburgue. Looks like the alburgue will be full again, some of the crowd from the last week are here, some have dropped off and we have caught up with others, pretty typical really. As I write I can't help reflect on what has and hasn't changed in the 10 years since we walked this route.

First off, I have changed, I am older and worn more and can't do the 30 and 40km days we used to day after day. In many respects the Camino has changed less then I have, the road markings are fading, there are more walkers and slightly more places to stay and eat. Most alburgues have clean sheets so less need for a sleeping bag. It's hotter, which saps you quicker. There are still very few places to refill with water en route. Guides are better, but due to some road changes the markings are worse. Someone really needs to come along and refresh the arrows, you can't always rely on the cubes.

I still don't believe it's only 21km between Caparra and Aldenueva,

 

[laineylainey]

Hope good company tonight helps ease the headache. In Mérida myself and can't believe how hot it is. Wish I hadn't brought my sleeping bag!!

 

[hel&scott]

Hope good company tonight helps ease the headache. In Mérida myself and can't believe how hot it is. Wish I hadn't brought my sleeping bag!!

Mail your surplus stuff to Salamanca, it is hot this year and you can pick up the cooler stuff from the correos when you get ther.

 

[hel&scott]

Add Bats to the list of fauna we have seen this trip, lovely aerial display from little bats after the mossies annoying us when we slept out last night in Caparra.

 

[laineylainey]

When you say "slept out", where out?

 

[hel&scott]

When you say "slept out", where out?

Literally on the monument, we arrived just after 2pm when the interpretation centre was closed and had to wait till 5pm for it to reopen so we could get more water to continue, had a siesta and refuelled but by them we decided 30kms was enough for the day so bedded down for the night in a quiet spot on the ruins, didn't get thrown out and didn't leave any rubbish behind, meant we could walk on the next day 30kms to Banos.

Currently in Fuenterroble, another 30kms on, nice walk if a little wearing in the afternoon, looking at another 30kms tomorrow, feet are not happy.

Signage has improved.

 

[VNwalking]

feet are not happy.

Sorry to hear that Hel...
May they improve soon.
But...bats? eagles?? On top of everything else?
Wonderful.
Continued buen camino to you both!

 

[hel&scott]

Ok, signage and temps all improve past Banos, they even had slabs of granite big enough for two pilgrims to sit on and rest. Yes there are hills, but there is shade and little villages along the way. We contemplate having a couple of short days to Fuenterroble but walking is excellent and Calzada de Bejar is closed. Lots of Casa Rurals here and if you have a brain, take time to have a swim in Banos then walk onto Calzada and you will have a lovely day...

We of course did otherwise and strolled along happily to Valverde de Valdelacasa, bar open but alburgue is closed, never mind it's only 12 more kms so we are off again on the road to Fuenterroble. You can guess the rest. We arrive and my feet are boiled, I have a raging infection in my big toes, I won't give the other gruesome details. I also realise that I have missread the guide symbols and there are no banks or cash machines between Aldernueva and Salamanca so we are running low on cash.

The Camino Angels at Fuenterroble decide to interrupt their festval preparations and medically evacuate me to a nearby clinic where we can catch the bus to Salamanca, so here I am, looking like a mummy, entertaining tourists in the garden outside the alburgue. Many thanks to the folks at Fuenterroble and to Fran who has carried her gimp of a mother across town. Time for empanadas and a rest.

 

[hel&scott]

But...bats? eagles?? On top of everything else?
Wonderful.
Continued buen camino to you both!

And snakes, by the roadside.

 

[laineylainey]

Gosh what a Camino story you tell! Hope everything heals soon
As for myself all I can complain about is the heat. I wish I could say I enjoyed the walk from Aljucen to Alcuescar, because it's such a great path but in this heat, I start walking myself "why are you doing this!!!"

 

[VNwalking]

And snakes, by the roadside.

That does it. Now I am envious.
(I hope they were alive and not squashed flat.)

so here I am, looking like a mummy, entertaining tourists in the garden outside the alburgue. Many thanks to the folks at Fuenterroble and to Fran who has carried her gimp of a mother across town. Time for empanadas and a rest.

Oh my...one of those camino adventures...but you have a lovely sense of humor about it all - I hope the infection heals quickly! It hurts my feet to think of it...the toes remember all too well how that feels.

 

[hel&scott]

It hurts my feet to think of it...the toes remember all too well how that feels.

I have found a very good bottle of Scotts favourite red wine and it is doing wonders on the pain killing front. I have also told my daughter that if I ever mention going on another Camino again she had just better take a hammer to my toes and remind me of how it feels.

That said, Salamamca is magical, I am happy to be back.

 

[OzAnnie]

So sorry to read even though you are trying to see the light side. I hate to think of you with infected toes. And heat.
I hope that in Salamanca you find the medical care and supplies you need to get better fast.
Annie

 

[VNwalking]

I have found a very good bottle of Scotts favourite red wine and it is doing wonders on the pain killing front. I have also told my daughter that if I ever mention going on another Camino again she had just better take a hammer to my toes and remind me of how it feels.

Ouch. It's a very good thing for wine, and Salamanca.
Heal well, Hel.
And don't worry. You'll only remember the good parts.

 

[laineylainey]

Bit like childbirth I think, the "pain" of the Camino, a year later you forget and do it all again.....
Wishing you a speedy recovery.

 

[hel&scott]

We must do short days, we must so short days... Okay so having rested in lovely Salamanca and let the antibiotics get my raging foot infection under control we planned a short day out... But have ended up in El Cubo, oh well it was flat, but still very hot. I can't believe last time it was raining and we were in thermals. Mornings at least are cool. Not a lot to do here but rest, two private alburgues to chose from and excellent meals at El Charro, you know the food is good when the place is packed with locals and the local road repair crew.

A word to the wise, if your feet are red and swollen, don't just put it down to heat, I will spare you the details but what I thought was heat and toe pressure was an infection and was spreading up my feet into my ankles, left untreated this can cause major blood poisoning and septicimia, so go to a clinic get it checked, a course of antibiotics will soon see you right,

 

[hel&scott]

Dare I say it but the past few days have been cold! Yes you heard that right, 8 degrees in the morning and a cold head wind keep you in your merino thermals all day. Days are still fine and cloudless, terrain is flat and tree less, so good for walking. We walked the 32 kms into lovely Zamora yesterday, had an excellent meal and stork watched before a sound night sleep in the fine alburgue. Zamora is a real crossing place with people coming up the Vdlp, in from the Levante and leaving to go west to Portugal, up to the French route or like us veering off after Montmartre to the Sanbres.

The alburgue was full last night, many newbies including some very disaffected pilgrims who came down from the French searching for a better way. We struck this last time, frankly the Camino is what you make it, if you are grumpy and distatisfied with the French route you are likely to take that attitude with you and yes the pilgrims you meet here will still snore and fart in the alburgue so take yourself off to the Parador and get over it! Dont come in late, make a hell of a racket all night and leave with as much noise as you can make in the morning!

 

[hel&scott]

Made it to Tabara, the quiet country road that provides the short cut is no more and we spent the last 25kms on the busy N631 which is now like a narrow main road with trucks and large vehicles flying past @geraldkelly should included a warning that this is no longer a safe alternative. That said we did find a bar that opens early at the end of Montemarta just before the long bridge and 15kms down the N631 there was another bar that was open to give us shelter from the road and a refuelling stop. Now putting our feet up after a full meal at the private alburgue El Roble, full meal, bed and breakfast for 16€ And the best showers on the Camino. Easy to spot as you cross the main square, I am a sucker for good signage and if it saves me a km going out to the muncipal that's also fine.

 

[hel&scott]

Made to Rionegro, taking some short days to sort out my dodgy foot. Nice alburgue but town is shut due to festival yesterday, alburgue is full as was the very good alburgue in Santa Marta, overfill had to sleep on the floor as the private place in Santa Croyais closed for the season.

Not much open in Santa Marta, but there is a very nice resteraunt 250m up the road which does a very full and fine pilgrim meal for 15€. It is worth considering local trade when in these small places, while it may be cheaper to cook in the alburgue, your patronage at local eateries can mean they survive to service future pilgrims, and sometimes you are also rewarded with excellent food.

 

[AlanSykes]

If you still have any appetite and if it's still open (I read somewhere that it might not be) Me Gusta Comer, opposite the albergue, is really outstanding. Michelin "bib gourmand" standard cooking and a most engaging chef who not only cooks up a treat, but also broadly shared my politics, and shared a carafe of wine with me while we put the world to rights (I was the only customer that November).

 

[hel&scott]

If you still have any appetite and if it's still open (I read somewhere that it might not be) Me Gusta Comer, opposite the albergue, is really outstanding. Michelin "bib gourmand" standard cooking and a most engaging chef who not only cooks up a treat, but also broadly shared my politics, and shared a carafe of wine with me while we put the world to rights (I was the only customer that November).

It is closed... I was looking forward to a meal there but he has gone on holiday.... Oh well, we did get some nice biscuits and a coffee with the hosts of the lovely alburgue at Villar Farfon earlier in the day and set the world to rights in a long winded discussion.

 

[hel&scott]

Pleasant but long day walking to Puebla de Sanabria, pulled up lame a few kms short of our goal and were rescued by a sunbathing local padre. I have no idea what is wrong, everything seams to function and nothing is swollen, I just can't get my left ankle to cooperate and swing along with the rest of my foot. Have had a shower and some rest at the alburgue and everything appears okay... Only now the beer dispenser here isn't working.

No beer but did see lots of deer today.

 

[hel&scott]

I am sitting here wearing everything I own, it's cold, I have broken down and so has the train to A Gudina... Oh well such is life on the road, Fran is off in the cool mt air and the plan is for me to go ahead and rest my foot while she walks to meet me. I feel quiet desolate and homeless.

 

[Kanga]

Oh dear, I know that feeling. While you wait for Fran, I prescribe a nice place to sleep, somewhere comfortable to sit and watch the world, a glass of slightly sweet red wine, and a good book downloaded onto your smartphone. Tell yourself it is a holiday!

 

[hel&scott]

Oh dear, I know that feeling. While you wait for Fran, I prescribe a nice place to sleep, somewhere comfortable to sit and watch the world, a glass of slightly sweet red wine, and a good book downloaded onto your smartphone. Tell yourself it is a holiday!

Thanks @Kanga, I have hobbled across the road to the Hostal where I am being well looked after, which helps a lot. Looking across the hills as the train cut through and the progress of the AVE I am reminded of the great hiking we did through here and am sad to miss it, but glad Fran can strike out with her long legs without being slowed by her gimpy mother. As you say, not much else to do but rest and read.

 

[hel&scott]

No I haven't disappeared. I have made it to Ourense, dignosis of my foot has confirmed I have pulled my Archillies tendon. Not what one wants in the hills of th Sanbres. Fran has left me soaking in the thermal springs while she makes the final push into Saniago, I will take the train to Santiago to meet with the other family members congregating there. The waters are working their magic and I am hopeful that I may hobble onto Finisterre which is our target this trip... Some might say deluded. We will see. I am learning patience and fate has reminded me that life doesn't alway work out the way you want it to.

 

[OzAnnie]

No I haven't disappeared. I have made it to Ourense, dignosis of my foot has confirmed I have pulled my Archillies tendon. Not what one wants in the hills of th Sanbres. Fran has left me soaking in the thermal springs while she makes the final push into Saniago, I will take the train to Santiago to meat with the other family members congregating there. The waters are working there magic and I am hopeful that I may hobble onto Finisterre which is our target this trip... Some might say deluded. We will see. I am learning patience and fate has reminded me that life doesn't alway work out the way you want it to.

I really hope that the thermal baths will have worked their magic for you Hel. You’re giving your muscles/joints, the best chance of recovering..
So there is every chance you’ll be able to walk gently to Finisterra.. it would be a shame not to try.. You really have an independent daughter I must say , which would relieve your burden somewhat, knowing she’s content to push on alone.
Thanks for your comments along the way.
Take care and Buen Camino
Annie

 

[VNwalking]

The best-laid plans, alas...
What a walk you've had: if it's not one thing it's another!
Sending best wishes for quick healing, Hel. What a pity, but you're doing the right thing not to push that injury over the edge into something much more severe.
There is still more to come and you're saving yourself for another day.

 

[laineylainey]

Good luck!

 

[hel&scott]

Well it was more complicated then expected, but I eventually made it into Santiago, onto Muxia and Finisterre. My Camino is over. My burden has been laid down. Now maybe I can recover.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well it was more complicated then expected, but I eventually made it into Santiago, into Muxia and Finisterre. My Camino is over. My burden has been laid down. Now maybe I can recover.

Amen, amiga. Sending cyber camino hugs.

 

[laineylainey]

I so admire your courage. Have a safe journey home and take time to recuperate.