Day 7: Itās foggy again as I set out this morning but it isnāt nearly as thick as yesterday, and at this point the fog has become an inseparable part of this camino ā and of this mystical land. By 11am, the fog clears and itās sunny for the rest of the walk.
This is the last day of my camino, and thatās usually accompanied by a sense of excitement at approaching Santiago. But today Iām only going to Vigo, a large and unattractive city whose best feature might be its good transport connections with Lisbon. On one hand, this will be a somewhat anticlimactic end to this little camino; on the other, I can enjoy the walk without being consumed by my impending arrival, because, really, I donāt want to arrive. And Iām not the only one; at one point today, I see a pilgrim laying on the beach, propped up by her backpack, reading a book.
From A Ramallosa, I take the coastal route, as do quite a few others. Itās a nice path, passing a few local, low-key beaches and some cruzeiros to remind me where I am.
As I approach Vigo in the early afternoon, the city is fortunately hidden by coves and bays and I donāt actually see it until Iām basically in the outskirts. And then I have to walk through an urban jungle for an hour, but itās not bad and thereās some street art to look at and before I know it, Iām at my accommodation and my camino is over.
As for the question Iāve been pondering throughout this pilgrimage ā āDoes this feel like a camino?ā ā I think the answer lies inside each individual pilgrim more than anywhere else. If you take the Senda Litoral at every opportunity and stay overnight in the touristy beach towns, I suspect it doesnāt feel much like a camino. And if youāre just here for the ocean, youād be better off on the Rota Vicentina, which is both more remote and more spectacular.
But if you look for the camino here, youāll find it ā in the monastery of Oia, where monks fired canons at pirates from the patio that also served as the pilgrim route; in the 9th-century church inscription mentioning Santiago in Castelo do Neiva; and in those quintessential and special markers of Galician culture: the cruzeiros and the shells and the hĆ³rreos and, yes, even the fog.
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