Alterative route after Población

[Bala]

Should I take it? If yes, what do you like about it? Suggestions on where to stay? If no, why not.

How well-travelled is it? I'm walking on my own, in my 60s, female. I like quiet, but not empty. Thanks!

And I'll echo what others are reporting, the weather since Monday has been fantastic. And to think I almost rebooked my flights to come a week earlier!

 

[naplesdon]

If you talking about the "river route" it is not much of a deviation. I walked with two other female pilgrims a few years ago and they chose that route and I took the road. We planned to stay at San Zoilo that evening. I arrived about 30 minutes ahead of them. The road is unpleasant but then you may get a chance to see the teepees and donkey in Villarmentero. My freinds commented that the river was relaxing and had shade trees the entire way. If you are staying in Fromista, the walk to Carrion is a normal stage. We had spent the night at the muni (old school house) in Poblacion, so our walk was even shorter. Villalcazar has a public albergue and hostels along with a first class restaurant that Pope John Paul visited. It is famous for it's young lamb roast and local morcilla.

 

[trecile]

Regardless of which path you take try to stay at Albergue La Finca in Población de Campos. Possibly the best albergue on the entire Camino Frances!

In 2016 I took the alternate route, and it had a bit more shade. Last year I took the main route, and actually walked from Población to Calzadilla de la Cueza. That long stretch from Carrión to Calzadilla was much different in the afternoon than the morning. I think that I only saw 2 or 3 other pilgrims in the afternoon, vs the hordes that were walking from Carrión in the morning.

 

[Bala]

@biarritzdon and @trecile thanks some much for your replies. I was in the middle of responding last night when the Wi-Fi went off and never came back.

Yes, this is the river route, and based on your replies I'm planning to take it. I had some vague memories of reading that some of the alternative paths are difficult and not really recommended, but I guess this isn't one of them.

Trecile, I am already happily ensconced in the beautiful LaFica. What a place! Thanks for the recommendation. Another pilgrim just checked in and he just walked around saying, "Wow." Yep, wow.

 

[Paul McAmino]

The only caution I would have for the alternative route is that the path is sometimes muddy, and there may be some slick (but short) downhills.
You’re walking essentially parallel to the official senda.
The route is quiet, but not far from other pilgrims who are toiling along the road side to your left. The Virgen del rio hermitage offers a nice place to rest before getting on the road to Carrión. And San Zoilo awaits, if that’s your thing, with a bath and a very nice dinner.
Cheers,
Paul

 

[Bala]

The only caution I would have for the alternative route is that the path is sometimes muddy, and there may be some slick (but short) downhills.
You’re walking essentially parallel to the official senda.
The route is quiet, but not far from other pilgrims who are toiling along the road side to your left. The Virgen del rio hermitage offers a nice place to rest before getting on the road to Carrión. And San Zoilo awaits, if that’s your thing, with a bath and a very nice dinner.
Cheers,
Paul

Thanks! Sounds good. After the deluged of the past couple weeks the weather has bern hot, sunny and dry. So hopefully the mud has dried!

 

[Bala]

@Paul McAmino ,where is San Zoilo? And is it an albergue? I can't find it listed anywhere.

 

[trecile]

Trecile, I am already happily ensconced in the beautiful LaFica. What a place! Thanks for the recommendation. Another pilgrim just checked in and he just walked around saying, "Wow." Yep, wow.

I'm glad that you are enjoying La Finca! I loved my upper "bunk" there. It was like a tiny room, and I even had my own window!

 

[VNwalking]

I've done both and found the river route much more pleasant, and not a whole lot longer.
From that photo I sure wish I had stayed at La Finca.
Buen camino, @Bala!!

 

[naplesdon]

San Zoilo is an old monastery turned into 4+ star hotel on the other side of Carrion.

 

[Paul McAmino]

As biarritzdon says it’s kind of like a parador. It’s on the Camino, on the way out of Carrión de los Condes. Nice relaxing grounds, and worth a look, but definitely not an albergue.
Cheers,
Paul

 

[naplesdon]

As biarritzdon says it’s kind of like a parador. It’s on the Camino, on the way out of Carrión de los Condes. Nice relaxing grounds, and worth a look, but definitely not an albergue.
Cheers,
Paul

Agree but was afraid to say parador because I don't think it fits the qualification. The stone carvings in the cloister are nothing like anything else on this planet.

 

[Bala]

The river route was fantastic, La Finca was fantastic, and San Zoilo certainly looked fantastic.

The river route was beyond beautiful, in fact the entire meseta right now is gorgeous. I didn't see a single pilgrim on the trail, and I only passed two people total, both locals hunting for snails.

Wildflowers are in bloom, thousands of birds seemed to be singing, including the ever-present cuckoo. The wheat fields look like The Emerald City of Oz. The mud had dried, but it must have been a mess because much of the path was deeply rutted. I would highly recommend this alternative.

I spent last night in Carrión, but with the humble sisters at Santa Maria, not in the luxurious splendor of San Zoilo. But I came close to booking a 2nd night in town, as I have been getting progressively sicker from a cold and didn't see how I could walk today. Then it hit me: I could just check out of the albergue and head straight to San Zoilo! Great idea. But fortunately (or not, as the case may be, lol) I got to a pharmacy and the meds kicked right in. And here I am today in Ledigos. Another beautiful albergue (La Morena), but it ain't San Zoilo. Or La Finca either, for that matter. But all is good.

 

[Paul McAmino]

Cheers! Have a wonderful walk.
Buen Camino.