Arles-Toulouse or Toulouse - Puenta la Reina?

[Antonius Vaessen]

I am thinking about my 2024 Camino. At the moment I am looking at the Voie d'Arles. I have some questions for people who have walked this Camino/ GR
To begin with two facts that influence my choices :
0 Probably I will not be able to walk from Arles to Puenta la Reina "in one go"
0 Next year I will be 75 that means that I have to see "one year a time" if I will still be able to walk a camino.
So I would have to split the route in two, the most logical place for the split would probably be Toulouse. If I were younger I would of course choose to start in Arles and the next year continu from Toulouse.
In my situation I would opt to start with the most attractive part. Important factors for me
are landscape (i love mountainous terrain), the number of pilgrims (i don't mind walking alone, but like some company in the evening; the availability of accommodations,( so i can adjust my daystages to my needs and possibilities) and so on.
Which part would you recommend?
I am thinking of starting in april or perhaps september. Would this be a good time of year, relating to the weather ( I don't likeheat) and the number of pilgrims
are

 

[Former member 104756]

Hi @Antonius Vaessen Bonjour.

'which part to recommend?' that's tricky. But I'll do my best.

Context: I walked from Arles to Puenta La Reina in 2016. I enjoyed it immensely. Not many pilgrims but saw some each day and always at our stops. But I don't have current information about number of pilgrims on this route. I don't see much about the Arles way on the forum which surprises me in some ways. I've walked on the Aragones path an additional 2 times, most recently a few weeks ago. Pilgrim numbers are low but seem to be increasing there and, as there are few accommodation options on that part, you will almost certainly see other pilgrims in the evening and probably during the day as well.

Adjusting stages based on accommodation. I'd start with Gronze for up to date information on that so you can see what options you have based on your preferred kms and the elevations.

More beautiful section? That is tricky. I tend to be one to take the good with the not so good and each has much to commend. But ...

Arles to Toulouse - you may read that the stages from Arles until you reach Montpelier are nothing special - and I'd agree with that. On the other hand, Arles is such a wonderful town and delightful place to spend a day or two before beginning. If you haven't been there it's well worth the visit. From Montpelier to Toulouse was lovely and varied landscapes - and I enjoyed the climbing in the early stages and the time on the Canal du Midi leading into Toulouse. We enjoyed great hospitality from the French gite owners - but that can also be said for the next section.

Toulouse to Puenta la Reina - this option gives you the variety and contrast of France and Spain and, as you like mountains, the opportunity to cross the Pyrenees could be compelling. Not long after Toulouse, you will spend some days in le Gers, which I think is one of the most beautiful areas in France (I live here some of the time, so I'm biased). After Oloron St Marie, you will turn south to make your way to the Col du Somport. This is quite spectacular. I particularly like the Camino Aragones and, as you may have read elsewhere, there are a few special albergues - inc in Canfranc peublo and Arres.

So, what to do ... Perhaps if you are concerned that that this may be your last time on the Camino, then I would probably choose the latter. But make sure you visit Arles some time, if you haven't already.

Hope that helps.

PS - the weather. Either April or September will work. If walking from Toulouse, a September start could be ideal as you will be in Spain in October which typically will still be warm but not too hot.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I think you'll do better than you fear -- though the better starting point is not Arles, but Saint-Gilles. Arles is important for the bridge, and not much more.

Though the Camino information service at the Cathedral is truly excellent.

Overall though -- I would say hope for the best rather than dread the worst.

 

[Susan Maria]

Hello, I have just finished Arles to Somport. Around Montpellier (I trammed and bussed to avoid the outskirts) it's a bit dull and the signage is seriously lacking. I enjoyed the 4 days in the Cevennes where it was cold but the landscape was hilly and lovely. I liked Castres too. I agree with @Pelerina the canal days before Toulouse are also lovely; shady , which was great as it was hot, but flat. I was forced to take the canal variante because I was staying at gîte Ecluse du Sanglier, but no regrets there. The best two days of all for scenery were the two before Somport.

[Edit: normally this would be three days - Oleron to Somport - for any but the toughest walker, but I went Oleron to Bedous via Sarrance (lovely) and took a train to Urdos to make the last day Urdos to Somport. This also avoided the roadworks on the main road.]

Regarding other pilgrims, it's a quiet route but if you stay in municipal gîtes you are likely to meet others. I was alone in a gîte on two nights.

 

[jouffroy47]

I agree with Susan Maria--if you do Arles-Toulouse, take the bus/tram into Montpelier, and the tram/bus out [to Grabels] to eliminate uninteresting suburban cement-walking. I loved the first part of this walk because of the variety [I took the Petit Rhone variant from Arles and the variant along the canal into Toulouse from Ayguesvives. It is definitely a quiet route--only about 1/10 as busy as the Le Puy route, so walk in high season if you want to see/walk with others and stay in municipal gîtes like Susan Maria says. where you're likely to meet the most people. I've only walked as far as Pau, so hope to finish and start the Aragonés this fall. I've done it so far in 3 stages [Covid oblige] and have found September a good time to walk.

​

 

[Suzanne A]

My husband and I walked the Arles route from Grabels ( tram 1 out of Montpellier) this May. Also skipped ahead by taking train from Castres to Auch and walking all the way to Puente La Reina. There are long stretches and you must plan accordingly with food and water. Took a taxi on 2 occasions and a bus on another to avoid 30km days. You don’t see many people on these routes ( Arles and Aragones). The diversity of the landscapes are stunning- I thoroughly enjoyed it. Used Miam Miam Dodo and Gronze for guides with lodging mostly gîtes, some chambre d’hôtes and cheap hotels. Bon courage!

 

[jouffroy47]

You don't need to walk 30km days [I'm in my 70s and don't walk more than 20/km day] but you may need to do some planning. From Lodève I took a local trail at the junction of the GF653/GR7 which took me directly to Lunas as the trek to Joncels was more than I wanted to walk. Also when walking through the Parc Regional du Haut Languedoc I left the trail near the Col de Serviés and took the GR71 for 2-3 km to Avène to stay at a gîte there and a short-cut back, I did the same after St Gervais-sur-Mare and went off trail 2km to Fagairolles and stayed at a gîte d'étape relais départamental there. As there were no stores around to buy provisions, both places made me dinner and brought it to me when they came to collect payment for my night's stay. There was no problem with breakfast or evening meals but you had to bring provisions for lunch on many occasions. I always opted for the DP when possible to avoid this problem. The place in Avène along the route de Serviès is : https://catalogue.accueil-paysan.com/en/catalog/structure/89/ the gîte in Fagairolles is in Gronze.

 

[Former member 109474]

Can I add in a question on this thread? I'm also planning on walking the same camino but from Toulouse over the Pyrennees to Jaca and joining the Camino Aragones. I know this is one of the caminos less traveled - is there much pilgrim accomodation on this route?

 

[Former member 104756]

Can I add in a question on this thread? I'm also planning on walking the same camino but from Toulouse over the Pyrennees to Jaca and joining the Camino Aragones. I know this is one of the caminos less traveled - is there much pilgrim accomodation on this route?

Hi there. We love the Arles and Aragones paths

There’s certainly accommodation open all along the paths between say April and October. I’d use Gronze as your starting point - it shows the towns, accommodation and distances in between, so you can see your options. Also shows elevations.

Here’s the link for the Arles route

Camino de Arles | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino de Arles, también conocido como Vía Tolosana por atravesar Toulouse, la capital de Occitania, es uno de los cuatro grandes itinerarios jacobeos de Francia. Mencionado ya en el Códice Calixtino (s. XII), con sus grandes hitos en Arles, Saint-Gilles, Montpellier y Toulouse, en la...

www.gronze.com

And for the Aragones (aka Camino Frances par Aragon).

Camino Aragonés | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino Francés por Aragón o Camino Aragonés enlaza el puerto de Somport en la frontera hispano-francesa con la localidad navarra de Puente la Reina, donde se une al Camino Francés procedente de Roncesvalles. El Camino Francés por Aragón debe su origen al Camino de Arles (Vía Tolosana), una de...

www.gronze.com

 

[Susan Maria]

You don't need to walk 30km days [I'm in my 70s and don't walk more than 20/km day] but you may need to do some planning. From Lodève I took a local trail at the junction of the GF653/GR7 which took me directly to Lunas as the trek to Joncels was more than I wanted to walk. Also when walking through the Parc Regional du Haut Languedoc I left the trail near the Col de Serviés and took the GR71 for 2-3 km to Avène to stay at a gîte there and a short-cut back, I did the same after St Gervais-sur-Mare and went off trail 2km to Fagairolles and stayed at a gîte d'étape relais départamental there. As there were no stores around to buy provisions, both places made me dinner and brought it to me when they came to collect payment for my night's stay. There was no problem with breakfast or evening meals but you had to bring provisions for lunch on many occasions. I always opted for the DP when possible to avoid this problem. The place in Avène along the route de Serviès is : https://catalogue.accueil-paysan.com/en/catalog/structure/89/ the gîte in Fagairolles is in Gronze.

I also had to take demi pension ( B&B & evening meal) as there was sometimes no shop to buy food to cook in a gite, or the shop's opening hours were not when I would be there. Some people carried a lot of food to avoid this. Sometimes this meant planning ahead for lunch, on the previous day. It all adds to the weight that you carry.

 

[Former member 109474]

Hi there. We love the Arles and Aragones paths

There’s certainly accommodation open all along the paths between say April and October. I’d use Gronze as your starting point - it shows the towns, accommodation and distances in between, so you can see your options. Also shows elevations.

Here’s the link for the Arles route

Camino de Arles | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino de Arles, también conocido como Vía Tolosana por atravesar Toulouse, la capital de Occitania, es uno de los cuatro grandes itinerarios jacobeos de Francia. Mencionado ya en el Códice Calixtino (s. XII), con sus grandes hitos en Arles, Saint-Gilles, Montpellier y Toulouse, en la...

www.gronze.com

And for the Aragones (aka Camino Frances par Aragon).

Camino Aragonés | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino Francés por Aragón o Camino Aragonés enlaza el puerto de Somport en la frontera hispano-francesa con la localidad navarra de Puente la Reina, donde se une al Camino Francés procedente de Roncesvalles. El Camino Francés por Aragón debe su origen al Camino de Arles (Vía Tolosana), una de...

www.gronze.com

This is so helpful, thanks very much

 

[Antonius Vaessen]

Thanks everybody for the reactions o my post. If I will decide to walk the Via Toulouse I will probably start in Toulouse. The stages through the Haute Languedoc attract me, but seem to be too difficult for my condition. To shorten the stages seems to be complicated, Gronze does not show any accomodations on 2 stages that are around 30 km. Jouffroi pointed out in her reaction that there are possibilities to avoid this but that is a bit too unsure for me.

 

[dick bird]

Can I add in a question on this thread? I'm also planning on walking the same camino but from Toulouse over the Pyrennees to Jaca and joining the Camino Aragones. I know this is one of the caminos less traveled - is there much pilgrim accomodation on this route?

Back in 2019 there was. Gronze will have up to date information but from Toulouse we stayed about 50% of the time in pilgrim hostels. Where there is no albergue/auberge, you can stay in a ´gite´. Gites are converted farmhouses. The Chemin D´Arles follows a GR route most of the way. GR routes are officially designated pathways with accommodation for walkers, or gites, along them. We were paying 15 euros per person a night then, it may be a bit more now. They are very much like the private albergues on the Francés. There were, in fact, other pilgrims on the route and we´d meet a few every day.

 

[jouffroy47]

Can I add in a question on this thread? I'm also planning on walking the same camino but from Toulouse over the Pyrennees to Jaca and joining the Camino Aragones. I know this is one of the caminos less traveled - is there much pilgrim accomodation on this route?

I walked as far as Sanguesa last September and had no problems.

 

[Suzanne A]

I walked from Auch to Pamplona and always found lodging In May '23 using Gronze. Stages over 30 km were broken up and or a taxi was used.