Bed rush on the Portugues

long trails

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Hello from Ponte de Lima where a number of pilgrims are still homeless, wandering around in the half light of sunset. I started from Porto a few days ago and its been busy in the Albergues without the bed rush, but I fear this is changing now.

I just bumped into a couple of female peregrinos who looked close to tears as everything is full in town, even the expensive hotels. There seems to be a million Spanish here on their Easter break too.

Things sound much worse across the border. Another pilgrim has a friend 4 days out of Santiago and she has had to sleep in a cellar one night and races everyday. She said the Spanish stay up late every night partying in all the albergues too.

I am due in Rubiaes tomorrow and I know there is going to be way too many pilgrims to beds. Only yesterday I donated my tent and camping gear away, which I regret now. I did manage to camp in an albergue one night, but decided that I had carried this gear long enough (over a year).

I will avoid Easter for future caminos
 
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Hi long trails, the Ninho albergue in Rubiaes is run by very good people and it is just a few yards after the municipal, which I seem to recall allows pre-booking with a deposit. If people are willing to share a room that would make the cost of staying in private accommodation such as at at Portas do Sol in Valenca not much more than an albergue. The woman at Ninho will phone ahead for you to the owner if needed. I walked with a fellow peregrina in the latter stages, and what you hear about partying into the small hours proved only too true, especially at the albergue near the train station in Pontevedra. Good luck to you and your fellow pilgrims in finding somewhere to sleep. You have a beautiful walk ahead of you tomorrow. Bom Caminho!
 
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rmckay

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Hi Long Trails, yes we just had a similar experience in Cernache. Where one of a group of pilgrims jumped ahead to the albergue, and reserved a whole room of beds by placing articles of hers on each bed. We had to stand our ground and insist on two beds.
 
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onwayhome

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Do they do Semana Santa processions in Portugal? An extraordinary experience in some Spanish towns and cities. Might not be so impressive if you have to sleep under a bush somewhere, hope you find a bed.
 
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Yo Misma

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O, help, now you are scaring me..
I am leaving in 1 week from Porto, and I hoped to have a quiet walk without worrying about finding a bed, because I hated that at the CF!
 
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Oppis

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Don't worry pilgrims. No problems from Lisbon so far with accommondations. Now staying in Coimbra. Today recerved Hostelroom for Porto; hundreds of variations available. Still wandering some scaring opinions.
Bom Caminho
 

rmckay

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  • Just walked into Coimbra also, but had booked ahead on booking.com. It's very busy due to Easter and school holidays. Also keep in mind this Camino has two way traffic, those going to Fatima from SDC and those going to SDC from Lisbon. All sharing the same accommodation options.
 
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O, help, now you are scaring me..
I am leaving in 1 week from Porto, and I hoped to have a quiet walk without worrying about finding a bed, because I hated that at the CF!

You will be fine, I walked from Porto starting on April 26 and had no problems finding somewhere to stay. The only time I nearly missed out was because I arrived late at Rates having limped there owing to blisters on my first day. I was glad that I had booked ahead to reserve a place at Casa Fernanda because, when I arrived there, others who had not booked were being turned away because it was full. If you are around Valenca or Tui on May 1st you will have the added pleasure of parades and music. Don't worry and Bom Caminho!
 

Oppis

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Busy in the city, I agree. Almost impossible to move at University campus. Seen only one pilgrim headingto Fatima so far. Possibly increasing among next days becauae of coming celebration days on 12-13 of may.
 
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Just a reminder for pilgrims on the CP that 25th April is a public holiday. I have seen it listed as Freedom Day and also Liberation Day. When I was in Porto last year it meant I had to wait 24 hours before starting walking as the post offices were closed and I needed to send a box of unwanted stuff forward to Ivar in SdC for safekeeping.
 
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You will be fine, I walked from Porto starting on April 26 and had no problems finding somewhere to stay. The only time I nearly missed out was because I arrived late at Rates having limped there owing to blisters on my first day. I was glad that I had booked ahead to reserve a place at Casa Fernanda because, when I arrived there, others who had not booked were being turned away because it was full.
That was in April, presumably last year since we have not gotten to April 26 of this year, and the concern is for this summer. If Easter Week has accommodations jammed up, this summer will be worse, I suspect. It sounds like you had problems even last April if those without reservations were being turned away.
 
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t2andreo

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Just a reminder for pilgrims on the CP that 25th April is a public holiday. I have seen it listed as Freedom Day and also Liberation Day. When I was in Porto last year it meant I had to wait 24 hours before starting walking as the post offices were closed and I needed to send a box of unwanted stuff forward to Ivar in SdC for safekeeping.

THAT is why I arrive at Lisbon on 26 April and start out on 27 April... That is also why I try to avoid religious and secular national holidays, like the two weeks straddling Semana Santa (Holy Week).

Typically, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, and the week immediately following are a proverbial "pig in a python" along the major Camino routes (e.g. Frances and Portuguese). After that, things slow down until the schools let out in mid-June.

Then, the seasonally higher traffic starts to build to a crescendo at the Feast of Santiago on 25 July. A similar phenomenon occurs in the week leading up to the Festa and the week following. Outside that "blip," things generally settle back to their seasonal patterns.

I have been watching the daily number of persons arriving at the Pilgrim Office at Santiago. Last week, the daily numbers were in TWO digits per day (78, 87, 92...). This week they spiked to the high 1,000s (less than 2,000) daily.

Many Europeans and Spanish folks have built in holidays. So they add a few personal days and assemble enough time to walk a Camino from Sarria or Tui, for example.

So, yes, there may be a bed rush on right now, but it will pass. I usually advise people to either get out in front of the pilgrim "wave," or better yet, and if you have time, stay where you are another day or two to allow the wave to pass over you. You can then "ride" in the trough...yes, it is a lot like surfing. To manage crowding on the Camino routes at certain times, and accommodation over subscription, you need to assess the wave (of pilgrims) and ride the waves accordingly.

I hope this helps.
 
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Letsgocamino

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Hello from Ponte de Lima where a number of pilgrims are still homeless, wandering around in the half light of sunset. I started from Porto a few days ago and its been busy in the Albergues without the bed rush, but I fear this is changing now.

I just bumped into a couple of female peregrinos who looked close to tears as everything is full in town, even the expensive hotels. There seems to be a million Spanish here on their Easter break too.

Things sound much worse across the border. Another pilgrim has a friend 4 days out of Santiago and she has had to sleep in a cellar one night and races everyday. She said the Spanish stay up late every night partying in all the albergues too.

I am due in Rubiaes tomorrow and I know there is going to be way too many pilgrims to beds. Only yesterday I donated my tent and camping gear away, which I regret now. I did manage to camp in an albergue one night, but decided that I had carried this gear long enough (over a year).

I will avoid Easter for future caminos
My sister and I start may 31st from porto. SO glad I booked b&b's, small hotels every step of the way to Santiago. Very excited!
 

alipilgrim

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I believe May 1st is a Spanish if not Portugese holiday and that makes it a long weekend this year. I arrive in Porto on Thursday 27th, and last night I was looking for alternate accommodation in Porto for Fri/Sat night and Booking.com shows the city 95% booked for that time frame in the class of accommodation I was looking for. I had planned to walk the Senda Littoral route to SdC but it looks like my ankle won't let me at this time but FYI to anyone planning to walk the Coastal route at this time, when I was planning my route a few weeks ago it was was apparent that the coastal hostals were being booked up for the last week of April/first week of May.
 
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long trails

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Maybe it's just me, but if I was in a group of pilgrims who had all met on a Camino and there was someone obviously not in a group, but sharing the same dorm, I would not ignore them when it came to eating out etc. Some people are inconsiderate.

Caminos can be tough on introverts.
 
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@long trails, thank goodness that there was someone in the municipal albergue in Sahagun when I arrived soaked to the skin, freezing cold and with a gippy stomach. She gave me a hot cup of chamomile tea. She was an English woman and is now a dear friend. Another was a woman from Amsterdam who persuaded me to try another day rather than give up on the CP when I was ill, then there was the ex-submariner who looked out for me because I took a long time arriving at the albergue in Gonzar, and,when he walked back to meet me said 'you never leave a man behind' even though I am an elderly woman, then there was the man working behind the bar in a village after Puente La Reina who gave me a bed in his own home after learning I had nowhere to stay. My point is that the majority of people we meet are good human beings, and that benevolent humanity is not exclusive to any nationality. Sometimes we simply don't think in relation to reaching out to others, but I am sure it it is not usually the result of any lack of kindness, it can be that the other person gives the impression that they want some personal space, understandable especially when living in such close proximity with fellow pilgrims as we do when walking the Camino.
 

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Maybe it's just me, but if I was in a group of pilgrims who had all met on a Camino and there was someone obviously not in a group, but sharing the same dorm, I would not ignore them when it came to eating out etc. Some people are inconsiderate.

Caminos can be tough on introverts.

Ironic that it's often English people who the culprits. Thank god I don't live there anymore.
(A) Caminos can be tough on extroverts, as well as the whole spectrum
(B) It has not be my experience that the English are worse than others. Don't alienate a whole nationality from your options! You don't say where you are from, but I don't imagine you want to be stereotyped, wherever it is!
 
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the week leading up to Easter Sunday, and the week immediately following are a proverbial "pig in a python" along the major Camino routes (e.g. Frances and Portuguese)
This year has had 2,500 more pilgrims Wednesday through Saturday of Easter week than last year! That is over a 600 per day increase. Daily statistics are not published for the various Caminos, but the Camino Frances and Camino Portugues are the two busiest routes annually. Summer pilgrims should be hoping that it is just a trend for Easter...

:):);)
 

ouroboros

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This year has had 2,500 more pilgrims Wednesday through Saturday of Easter week than last year! That is over a 600 per day increase. Daily statistics are not published for the various Caminos, but the Camino Frances and Camino Portugues are the two busiest routes annually. Summer pilgrims should be hoping that it is just a trend for Easter...

:):);)
Yikes!
@falcon269 , if the festival for Fatima is May 12-13, does that mean that the days leading up to the festival will make for a heavy number of pilgrims on the CP on the days leading up to May 12-13....if so, like a whole week or ten days of crowded conditions? I understand that May is Corpus Christi: Will that also make the CP more crowded during that time?
 
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Yikes!
@falcon269 , if the festival for Fatima is May 12-13, does that mean that the days leading up to the festival will make for a heavy number of pilgrims on the CP on the days leading up to May 12-13....if so, like a whole week or ten days of crowded conditions? I understand that May is Corpus Christi: Will that also make the CP more crowded during that time?
The huge number of pilgrims to Santiago this Easter has not been explained, so it is hard to guess what will be happening for the rest of the year. Crowds are a reason to adjust one's approach to a pilgrimage, not a reason to stay home!! Be flexible each day. Pilgrims have to adjust to the Camino; it won't adjust to suit a pilgrim. :)
 
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t2andreo

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It is always wise to do research and pay attention to any special feast, holiday, or religious event (like the Papal visit to Fatima). Given the origins of the Camino de Santiago, and the fact that many of the pilgrims are observant or devout Christians, surges in interest and traffic on at least the major camino routes (Frances and Portuguese) should be anticipated. Do plan ahead.

As regards the Papal Visit to Fatima, it is likely that the CP from Lisbon and from Porto may see heavier than normal traffic leading up to the visit. I will arrive in Porto on 6 May for two nights, having walked from Lisbon. I start from there on 27 April. Lord willing, and legs cooperating, I will be able to keep to this very ambitious pace. At least I can anticipate warm, sunny weather...I hope...

Leaving the Cathedral in Porto, there are two sets of arrows. The yellow arrows direct the pilgrim toward Santiago de Compostela. The blue arrows, toward Fatima. Hence, I reasonably expect a wave of Fatima-bound walking pilgrims to leave Porto on 7, 8, or 9 May to be at Fatima for when His Holiness arrives on 12 May.

As I say often and repeatedly, pay attention, do your research, ask questions here, and PLAN AHEAD. It also helps to have a Plan B for each day you are walking. E.G. "If all goes well, I will walk this route today, and likely stop for the evening...at 'x.' However, if things head south fast, and my plans must change, we adopt Plan B..."

Things are easier if you can pre-book lodging for the night, especially at peak demand times. This takes care of lodging. All you need to do is get there. Plan B might include staying at an alternative albergue, a municipal, or walking further on to obtain a bed. there are ALWAYS choices and options.

I hope this helps.
 
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Those on Easter holiday have gone home starting yesterday, Saturday. Apprarently traffic at the entrance of large cities is heavy, but the Camino is quiet again,

I have to say I really enjoyed the Easter traffic from middle aged professionals from all over Europe, walking for their week off. Met some very interesting people. Now it's back to retirees.
 
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Giopomerol

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Pope Francis will pay a short visit to Fatima on 12 and 13 May this year. I have no idea whether this will have any repercussions for the number of foot pilgrims on the Portuguese camino.
Please remember May 2017 is the hundred year anniversary and indeed celebration of Fatima that's why it's going to be very busy and not just in May.
 

rmckay

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Pope Francis will pay a short visit to Fatima on 12 and 13 May this year. I have no idea whether this will have any repercussions for the number of foot pilgrims on the Portuguese camino.
We have just been through Fatima in the past week or so, and their are signs up that pilgrims will be accommodated in army tents on a first come first served basis during the popes visit. ALL commercial accommodation is already booked out.
 
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Caminogirl2017

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You may be correct in your assessment @falcon269 but with regard to casa fernanda there is always a need to pre-book to stay there because it is so popular.

Hello! Could you please tell me how could I reserve a place in Casa Fernanda (may be e-mail/phone)? I'm planning to stay there on the 26th of May and afraid that I couldn't walk further if there will be no places((
Thank you in advance!
 
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Hi Caminogirl2017, the number is: +351 914 589 521 sorry but I don't know about dialling codes. The post by Albertinho on this forum dated February 15 2017 gives all the details, again, sorry my computer skills are insufficient to know how to link to a previous post. Fernanda speaks good English and will help if she can. Bom Caminho!
 

Caminogirl2017

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Hi Caminogirl2017, the number is: +351 914 589 521 sorry but I don't know about dialling codes. The post by Albertinho on this forum dated February 15 2017 gives all the details, again, sorry my computer skills are insufficient to know how to link to a previous post. Fernanda speaks good English and will help if she can. Bom Caminho!
I'm so grateful to you for help! Will call to Fernanda and try to book a place! Thanks a lot!
 

t2andreo

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Mind the time zone. Portugal is in the same time zone as London, England. At this time of year, that is UTC +1. Spain is UTC +2 (Central European Time).

If you look at a map of Europe you can see the Portugal, and indeed most of Spain, is well west of the rest of Continental Europe. The Spanish time zone arrangement goes back to the late 1930s, when General Franco opted to align his country's time zone with Germany...just a factoid...

In fact, when you walk across the bridge from Valenca, Portugal to Tui, Spain, you must change your watch ahead one hour. to account for the time zone change.

I hope this helps.
 
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dougfitz

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If you look at a map of Europe you can see the Portugal, and indeed most of Spain, is well west of the rest of Continental Europe. The Spanish time zone arrangement goes back to the late 1930s, when General Franco opted to align his country's time zone with Germany...just a factoid...
The change to CET took place on 16 Mar 1940, which most of us would consider to be in the 1940s, but I am told by my mathematically literate friends should be considered the last year of the 1930s (similar to the year 2000 being the last year of the millenium!).
 

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Busy in the city, I agree. Almost impossible to move at University campus. Seen only one pilgrim headingto Fatima so far. Possibly increasing among next days becauae of coming celebration days on 12-13 of may.

Hi Kimmo,

We spent two days walking around the Uni when we did the Portuguese Camino.
It dates back to the 1200's and i believe is amongst the oldest in the world.
We loved this vibrant city , very similar to Salamanca.
 

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When is the Corpus Christi long weekend?
it is 60 days after Easter Sunday, always on a Thursday, but in some places the festivity has been moved to the following Sunday. In this case, we would be talking about June 15th, 2017, but that will change next year again.
 
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I remember I did the Portugués during Corpus Christi time, the Galicia part of it was packed with Portuguese, mostly on bike, dozens and dozens of them, it was an exceptionally late Corpus Christi, on June 23rd.
 

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