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🇪🇸 Camino OLVIDADO (Bilbao - Villafranca del B.)
BP on the Olvidado July 2023 - A retrospective
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[QUOTE="Bad Pilgrim, post: 1162348, member: 50859"] [B]Day 2: Cervera de Pisuerga - Guardo, 39 kms[/B] I had read reports about a gate that would be difficult/impossible to open. It would appear soon after leaving Cervera de Pisuerga. The thing is: I never found it. I did get to a fence in the morning where a part of it had been torn down. So I thought: "Ok, this is the fence everyone has been talking about, and someone has made a breach in it so people can pass." But on the other side was just a meadow with no visible trail; not that I could see anyway. I backtracked, my shoes soaked from the meadow, and looked around: there was a Camino sign to the right. I should follow a trail next to the meadow instead. Ok, good. Then a split in the road: no sign. I had no cellphone reception so I couldn't check where I was. After this: another split without signs. By then I had enough of bad waymarking and decided to follow the sound of cars nearby, get onto a road, and reach the next village Cantoral de la Peña from there. I did reach the carretera and ran into an info board about hiking routes in the area. But the map didn't make sense to me. I was about to walk in the wrong direction when I miraculously got reception again and could see how I would get to Cantoral. The "Usted está aquí/You are here"-marker was on the wrong road on the info board..! I sorted it out, but I lost about an hour because of this. I guess I walked more than 39 kms in the end that day..! I later checked Sara Dhooma's vlog on YouTube to see where I should have gone. It turns out she also got lost in the area! But not at the same place as me. At least she got to the infamous gate that wouldn't open. I still have no idea where that is!! The rest of the stage was easy to follow, but looong. Much of it on asphalt next to cars and trucks. A few fountains, but there was no bar open until I reached Santibañez de la Peña, the only large-ish town before Guardo. There was also a bar open in Villanueva de Arriba, not far away from Guardo. I stayed in the albergue in Guardo that recently got things going again with new owners. So new that they don't have a stamp yet! It is 15 euros (if I remember correctly). With the standard of a typical municipal albergue. It was the most "basic" place I stayed in this summer, but still enough to have everything a pilgrim needs. It is at the other side of town, on a hill, so it is a slog to get there after those 39 kms! You need about 20 minutes to reach central Guardo again if you want to visit town or run some errands later. There are workers staying in the albergue as well but pilgrims have a dorm of their own. We were four this evening. First a Portuguese couple - who had decided this was their last day on the Olvidado! They started in Bilbao but had grown tired of the lack of services and lodging along the way. To give them perspective, I told them that this part of the Olvidado actually has [I]much[/I] better services than the Camino Viejo between Pamplona and Aguilar de Campoo... But they would catch a bus to Ponferrada and walk the Invierno instead. And there was Antonio, a young priest from Madrid, who had also started in Bilbao and would later take the Invierno from Ponferrada. It was my first time meeting other pilgrims in an albergue since the Camino Baztán. I was surprised over how well I coped with it! We had fun conversations; in Portuguese and Spanish, but still understood each other. I gave them advice about the Invierno and examples of hostals and albergues that I like on that camino. No snoring was involved and I was well rested for Puente Almuhey or Cistierna the following day. I hadn't decided yet where I would stop. [I]Don't miss next episode![/I] [/QUOTE]
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