Alatoz - Casas Ibáñez, Day 7
One of the bars opens at six o'clock in Alatoz, so there is café con leche, although not much of a breakfast. The camino goes amongst the fields for the first few kms, then on a road. But early in the morning there is hardly any traffic. I didn't meet a single car.
After a while, you leave the road on your left. You will think "Ooh, no more tarmac! Lovely!" But be careful what you wish for. The arrows lure you right into the woods of the Blair Witch Project. Only ancient flechas, faint yellow dots and other ungodly signs guide you through the bushes. Can't believe I made the same mistake again: I should have stayed on the road and only turn left a few hundred meters later, at a point where the pagan path approaches the road. Sticks and stones may break my bones... And they do. But it was even harder last time, when I walked this stretch in the sunny afternoon. There is really no shadow between the dry pine trees, and every step requires an effort among the thorns and the fallen trees that occasionally block the way.
But what a relief to reach Alcalá del Júcar before noon, instead of at the end of a long stage! The canyon looked even more breathtaking now, that I actually cared about the scenery. Last time I was too knackered in the heat, as I descended the narrow path that leads down to the river. If you reach Alcalá at the end of a long stage, make sure you have somewhere to sleep, or you may have an unpleasant surprise. The pueblo is a tourist attraction and it deserves to be...!
After a short break, I started to walk up amongst the small houses to reach the flatlands again. There are no arrows here. That is understandable, given that Alcalá is a historically-protected-architectonically-superpretty town, or whatever they call it, and I understand that people don't want yellow arrows in every corner of the winding streets that lead up to the castle. But do not despair: the way out of Alcalá is easy. Walk up to the castle. Up, up up. You will see a small playground next to the castle. Then walk in the opposite direction, away from the castle and the playground. You get immediately to another road that leads upwards, with stones on the borders, that looks kind of a medieval bridge. Keep walking upwards on this (you will find yourself above even the castle of Alcalá). After only a hundred meters there is a small, white building with antennas on the roof, a water depository. The arrows appear on this building and tell you to turn left around the corner, leading you out in the wilderness again. Then an easy walk to Las Eras (that is, if you don't make a bad step and fall down the ravine. I have no idea how I survived this last time, when I left Alcalá in total darkness...! Only now, in daylight, could I see how dangerous it actually was! )
Fill up your water bottle in the little plaza in Las Eras, because once you leave you are on your own for the next 11 kms to Casas Ibáñez. The sun was merciless and I was desperate to get to target. The farmlands and the vineyards looked endless to me. Finally I checked in at the luxurious hotel Aros, well known by previous Laners. 25 euros, or 30? I was a bit dizzy from the heat so I don't quite remember.
Casas Ibáñez is a clean, tidy little town that is excellent for strolling and just hang out in the cafeterías. But I passed out in my room and slept for almost two hours before I could stand on my legs again. Tomorrow I am off to the jolly restaurant/hostal Los Tubos, in Villarta, where the fantastic, pilgrim-friendly Mónica runs the business...! Don't miss it! :OD
BP