GaryG
New Member
- May 5, 2014
- 3
- 0
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Frances 2014 & planning Via Podiensis 2024
I spend a lot of time in France, am married to s Frenchman, have walked various French caminos including as a solo walker and stayed at more than 100 gîtes- I find this an odd statement and at odds with my experience.So they've never really understood silent, solo, early breakfasts.
We walked from Le Puy from mid-September to mid-October. Not a problem. If you plan to start early, they will have a grab and go ready for you. Dinner is not early, but it's worth waiting for. While we in the past were always early to bed, early to hit the road, generally skipping breakfast and having an orange and a cookie, stopping around 9am for a tortilla, you just can't do that in France. When in France, do what the French do. We decided to have a nice breakfast with other pellerin, starting later, a light lunch and a nice dinner. It was wonderful.My wife and I will be booking Gites soon for our walking from Le Puy to Moissac. Wondering about booking dinners and breakfasts. What time is breakfast available from, for the days we want to be up and away early?
On the contrary - is that French? Au contraire! Food is a main topic at the table and wherever they meet sooner or later the conversation comes to food. As to a silent breakfast, that depends on the person like everywhere….should point out that the French do not eat food for food's sake (although, given the state of their cookery, we might all believe differently); rather, a meal is for conversation, and the food is just an excuse. So they've never really understood silent, solo, early breakfasts.
Yep...and another piece of advice: If you don't speak French, learn as much as you can. Most of the pellerin are French and they make the experience so much more meaningful. One of our most unforgettable moments was when I reached the top after the climb out of Conques about a minute before my wife. There were 8 French taking a break there. I told them in my fractured French that it was my wife's birthday. As she approached us, they broke out into a rousing Happy Birthday...in English. Then I overheard one of them say in French what I understood as: We must sing it in French. English is so ugly! And they did. And it was indeed lovely. My wife filmed it. She said it was one of her best birthday presents ever.I agree with Anthony. We walked part of the LePuy last Sept 2022. It is not the CF or CP. Walkers are not out before first light. Gites are not often open at 2 or 3:00 pm. Dinner was at 7 or 7:30 and we all sat together. Dinner did not start until everyone was seated. One of our most memorable dinners lasted until 10:30. BFast was sometime grab and go, but often a sit down affair. The food was amazing.
My advice, Go with the flow. Coffee stops are not as frequent as in Spain. But watch for the occasional pastry shop, it will be worth the stop.
Enjoy Bob
Absolutely agree 100 per cent @Pelerina ... having been so spoilt with excellent coffee I am now very fussy ... first coffee of the day coming up️️I’m happy to know that you’ve found a couple of cafés in Lectoure that will make you a milk coffee just how you like it EnjoyAh oui @Camino Chrissy I too find thé coffee a challenge in France. I think black coffee drinkers - the majority in France - fare better. Those of us who like a milk coffee often face an uphill battle. Ah yes, and the big bowls.
In Australia, we are spoilt when it comes to coffee. I think it’s traced back to the Italian and Greek immigrants who arrived in the 50s and 60s. These days small local cafes are everywhere and thriving. Over thé years big chains like Starbucks and Gloria Jeans have struggled to survive in Australia. Many have opened only to close.
So the point …. I miss my coffee when in France. Spain is better but still not the same. Thankfully I’ve found two cafes here in Lectoure that make a milk coffee how I like it. It’s important. Non? ️ ️
You raise a good point @chinacat. When walking in France, if the coffee is not to your liking, you can always ask for un chocolat chaud - a hot chocolate - including at breakfastMy memories of French breakfast coffee (in bowls, of course) are of milky coffee (or chocolate). If I ever fancy a milky coffee … a rare occurence … in the morning, I’ll serve it in a bowl … just for the memorises …
We had walked in France before and knew about the coffee issue...and it was an issue for me. I simply cannot get going (or keep going) without coffee. On our first camino there (The Arle) the packets of instant coffee available at Carrefours were good enough, perhaps better than the coffee we got at bars as we could make the coffee strong enough for a caffeine deprived pilgrim. So much better in Spain, as we all know, and even better in Italy, where we lived for five years. Coffee lover unite! Let's march together on the Francigena!… and my ‘milk’ is almond milk …
Not sure I could manage your coffee, Chrissy, at any time of day …
And I’ve never had a café con lecche … it’s always espresso, with a little water, very little, if I’m not at home. I enjoyed many camino espressos
I was going to write ‘chocolat chaud‘ in French, @Pelerina, but it seemed out of place … I hadn’t thought of using italics ..
I actually fell in love with thé au lait while backpacking in France when I was 20. All the cheap hotels offered it as a breakfast option. There is nothing better than a steaming bowl of milky tea and fresh baguette and butter delivered to your room! Even in a one star hotel! I’ve been a tea drinker ever since. But now they don’t serve it any more in France. I get the dreaded: Quoi?!You raise a good point @chinacat. When walking in France, if the coffee is not to your liking, you can always ask for un chocolat chaud - a hot chocolate - including at breakfast
Probably because of Brexit...But now they don’t serve it any more in France. I get the dreaded: Quoi?!