Camino de Madrid

[Bachibouzouk]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

 

[timr]

Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?

Yes I did, and thoroughly enjoyed it. An interesting place and a very beautiful walk. See here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-short-walk-continued.51788/post-569412

Not sure I have a favourite Camino, but if i did......it would be the CdM.

Tim

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Yes I did, and thoroughly enjoyed it. An interesting place and a very beautiful walk. See here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-short-walk-continued.51788/post-569412

Not sure I have a favourite Camino, but if i did......it would be the CdM.

Tim

Thanks Tim. Looks like you have just added 10kms to my itinerary ;-)

 

[timr]

Thanks Tim. Looks like you have just added 10kms to my itinerary ;-)

I hope you will agree it is worth while.
You will read after that my account of the old convent in Medina del Rioseco. I would be interested to hear of what is available there now.

 

[DTCamino]

I found Jeffrey Barrera’s guidebook to the Camino de Madrid helpful when I walked it in late September last year. Whatever it didn’t cover the forum filled in the blanks. When walking the Buen Camino app and Gronze were also useful.
It’s a wonderful walk. I leave for the Lana this Saturday, but I enjoyed the Madrid so much that I’m already planning to walk it again in 2 years.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I leave for the Lana this Saturday,

Buen Camino and enjoy. I'm pretty certain you will. It's a good 'un.

 

[David Tallan]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

I walked the Camino de Madrid last June. You can see my reports along the way in this thread. As you'll see, I went to Santa Espina - and on to Urueña (based on the virtual Camino thread here). I stayed in La Granja, but the place I stayed seems to have closed. I can't recommend a place in Simancas because I stayed in the nice albergue in Puente Duero.

In terms of planning resources, I also found very useful:
The Camino de Madrid section on Gronze.com, including the "Al Loro" (To the parrot) tab which many don't notice. If Spanish is not your forte, Chrome will translate the site to English.
The Amigos Guide (can also be translated by Chrome)
Ray y Rosa's Guide (They also run a very nice acogida in Manzanares el Real and WhatsApped me the best information about which albergues were open. They were the ones that told me that the albergue in Santa Espina was open when even Gronze was reporting it as closed.)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

I walked the Camino de Madrid in October 2023. In looking at my notes, I stayed at Hotel Pago del Olivo in Simancas and it was very nice, and it offered a good breakfast in the morning with fresh squeezed orange juice before we left; highly recommend.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I walked the Madrid last year, starting about 10 days later than you. Definitely a very good Camino that provided opportunities to meet and interact with many local people.

Pilgrims are still rare on the Madrid, I met six in total (including @David Tallan ), and so the locals really rolled out the red carpet for me.

My only planning resource was the gronze website and when I needed urgent advice on something not covered on the gronze I obtained it from this forum.

Buen camino and I am sure that you will enjoy yourself.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I walked the Camino de Madrid last June.

Hello David - I know you did, you are one of my sources ;-)

Ray y Rosa's Guide (They also run a very nice acogida in Manzanares el Real and WhatsApped me the best information about which albergues were open. They were the ones that told me that the albergue in Santa Espina was open when even Gronze was reporting it as closed.)

Been looking at their guide. Description of the route runs out at Puente Duero but good information up to that point. I will, hopefully overnight at Ray y Rosa, so should be able to get some gaps filled.

Too bad about the albergue in La Granja being closed but I am still keen to walk via San Ildefonso.

Don't know anything about Gronze - will check it out.

Many thanks.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I walked the Madrid last year, starting about 10 days later than you. Definitely a very good Camino that provided opportunities to meet and interact with many local people.

Pilgrims are still rare on the Madrid, I met six in total (including @David Tallan ), and so the locals really rolled out the red carpet for me.

My only planning resource was the gronze website and when I needed urgent advice on something not covered on the gronze I obtained it from this forum.

Buen camino and I am sure that you will enjoy yourself.

No red carpets for me; a definite drawback unfortunately to not speaking the language. In fact, we only met two locals the whole time who spoke any English at all and they were at the reception desks at hotels we stayed at. Once back at Madrid for a few days of sightseeing before going home, there were a few more.
Anyhow, it is my problem, not theirs.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

No red carpets for me; a definite drawback unfortunately to not speaking the language. In fact, we only met two locals the whole time who spoke any English at all and they were at the reception desks at hotels we stayed at. Once back at Madrid for a few days of sightseeing before going home, there were a few more.
Anyhow, it is my problem, not theirs.

I used Ms Google to translate where rquired but people were friendly in general and I find that if both myself and the other person want to communicate then we will find a way.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I used Ms Google to translate where rquired but people were friendly in general and I find that if both myself and the other person want to communicate then we will find a way.

Yes, I did use "Chroogle" a few times, but only when absolutely necessary to get the job done...no real chatting.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Chatting to locals on the Madrid in their house



While eating cake.



In this case the cake, biscuit and coffee were delivered to me outside as I sat in the town square.

 

[Larry OHeron]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

Camino Madrid 2022

Camino Madrid: A Beautiful but Lightly Used Pilgrimage

caminomadrid2022.blogspot.com

I walked the Camino Madrid in 2022. Started in Madrid and stopped in sahagun. You might find some useful info for your planning in my blog.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

We absolutely loved the Camino Madrid. Very few pilgrims, but the variety of landscapes and towns and the villagers who embraced us made this unforgettable. A few things. Despite many attempts over the years when we were in Madrid, we never found the Amigos office open. Never.

Our absolutely best advice: We noticed on Ivar that a lady was walking three days ahead of us. We gave her our text and email address and she kept us informed of where to stay, where not to stay (important), where to get food, meals, etc. This made everything so easy. We then discovered on Ivar that there was a gentleman walking three days after us. We kept him informed, refining the information the lady who walked before us had said. He was extremely grateful.

Hope you are so fortunate. Ever since that time, we always seek out walkers on Ivar who are doing a lesser walked camino path for advice. No guidebooks are that up-to-date nor as descriptive.

 

[frbobs]

It's a different but beautiful Camino, as has been said. I walked it in August 2019.
Your itinerary is pretty much identical to mine. If you need to cut some time, rethink the Valladolid/Tordesillas side trip, and make sure you stay in Segovia (you are going to want to be there longer anyway, one of the coolest cities I've been to).
In La Granja I stayed in the Oyo Hostal: inexpensive, clean, AC; right on one of the main streets (there is a Parador there too). In Simancas, there is a hotel across a small highway as you're leaving town on the Camino (there's the rare ATM heading the same way). Hotel Pago de Olivo; standard, modern hotel, really nice, great breakfast. The restaurant Los Infantes is excellent. It might be a good idea to stay in a nicer place when you can, most of the Madrid is pretty rural, but you will have a bed every night. In case no one has mentioned it, pay more attention to food and water, neither is as available as you would encounter on other routes. All of it adds up to a unique (if not challenging) charm of the Madrid. Have great time. Peace, Bob

 

[Anthony Rocco]

It's a different but beautiful Camino, as has been said. I walked it in August 2019.
Your itinerary is pretty much identical to mine. If you need to cut some time, rethink the Valladolid/Tordesillas side trip, and make sure you stay in Segovia (you are going to want to be there longer anyway, one of the coolest cities I've been to).
In La Granja I stayed in the Oyo Hostal: inexpensive, clean, AC; right on one of the main streets (there is a Parador there too). In Simancas, there is a hotel across a small highway as you're leaving town on the Camino (there's the rare ATM heading the same way). Hotel Pago de Olivo; standard, modern hotel, really nice, great breakfast. The restaurant Los Infantes is excellent. It might be a good idea to stay in a nicer place when you can, most of the Madrid is pretty rural, but you will have a bed every night. In case no one has mentioned it, pay more attention to food and water, neither is as available as you would encounter on other routes. All of it adds up to a unique (if not challenging) charm of the Madrid. Have great time. Peace, Bob

Segovia is indeed a jewel. Please do take this advice and spend extra time there. We also loved Valladolid. And there we had a camino angel which was more common on the Madrid than any other camino we have walked. We got up early and went to a bus stop. A guy driving a Mercedes convertible stopped and asked if we were peregrinos. We said yes. He asked where we were going. We said Simancas. He drove us there, it was a gorgeous morning and he was such a delight. And we saved lots of time. We came back with lots of tales like this which we still smile when we talk about that camino.

 

[Peterborough]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

I'm thinking about this Camino for next year. I need to do more research but to be honest I'm not keen on the climb up to Segovia. I might take the bus from Madrid. And do Segovia to Santiago

 

[Camino Chrissy]

It's a different but beautiful Camino, as has been said.

In Simancas, we also stayed at Hotel Pago de Oliva. I loved my overnight in Valladolid, which is off trail, but took an easy bus in and out to save time. I agree that Segovia is worthy of two nights; the ancient intact aqueduct alone is worth it, but so many other interesting things to do. I especially liked the tower tour at the cathedral with outstanding views. In fact, I enjoyed the city so much, we are stopping there after Santiago for the day and night before taking the short train ride back to Madrid in time for our flight home.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'm thinking about this Camino for next year. I need to do more research but to be honest I'm not keen on the climb up to Segovia. I might take the bus from Madrid. And do Segovia to Santiago

That is exactly what I did. I'd broken my arm four months earlier and wanted an "easier" Camino and this route was perfect. The weather, minus just one day of cold and rain last October, was great.

 

[lt56ny]

I will be walking over the stones of the Camino Madrid sometime in late October after I finish the Aragones and before I begin the Coastal Portugues. A few bus rides for this camino. Really looking forward to my first Madrid.

 

[frbobs]

I'm thinking about this Camino for next year. I need to do more research but to be honest I'm not keen on the climb up to Segovia. I might take the bus from Madrid. And do Segovia to Santiago


Hello, just FYI, there's a Hostal in Cercedilla (El Aribel), it's on the Camino and the train station is next to it. The train cuts out the mountain and brings you to Segovia. Pretty humbling: takes about a half hour/ 40 minutes, and would be a long, hard day to walk. Hope you get to go.

 

[Albertagirl]

I walked the Madrid last autumn, for the second time, and found it somewhat challenging. I was staying at a hostel in Madrid and getting organized for my walk when I looked for a restaurant in a large square near the albergue. I was warned by a man in the square to watch out for thieves. As I was staying in an albergue, I carried my cash with me. A woman snatched some of it out of my pocket. I grabbed her hand and got it back. No one seemed interested in her action, nor were there any police present in the square. Watch out. Beyond Madrid, I always felt safe and had no further problems with thieves.

 

[Myra13]

Hi. I'm on the Madrid right now. Today we are in La Granja in hostal La Chata. Via booking.com, price includes breakfast (between 9-10am).
Tomorrow after breakfast we will visit the gardens. Then on to Segovia for 2 nights. We're not yet sure of the stages after that.
Until now, we are really enjoying this camino. The surroundings are great. The walk up Fuenfría went fine, it was not as hard as I expected. But somehow it took us quite some time to get here. We didn't take the camino route to La Granja, but got off earlier en walked through a beautiful forest en then alongside the river. I attached the route.

 

[Myra13]

Oh, and you can get the special pilgrim passport at the santiagochurch in Madrid.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

My only planning resource was the gronze website and when I needed urgent advice on something not covered on the gronze I obtained it from this forum.

I've had a quick look at Gronze and it appears to be just what I'm after - elementary and clear and I can understand the Spanish, more or less.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Your itinerary is pretty much identical to mine. If you need to cut some time, rethink the Valladolid/Tordesillas side trip, and make sure you stay in Segovia (you are going to want to be there longer anyway, one of the coolest cities I've been to).

I've stayed in Segovia before, even if it was 30 plus years ago, so that is probably where I'm going to have to save a day. Tordesillas is one of my many favourite places in Spain and I'd like to walk along the Duero for a bit. That side trip is non-negotiable for me.

In La Granja I stayed in the Oyo Hostal: inexpensive, clean, AC; right on one of the main streets (there is a Parador there too). In Simancas, there is a hotel across a small highway as you're leaving town on the Camino (there's the rare ATM heading the same way).

Noted.

Hotel Pago de Olivo; standard, modern hotel, really nice, great breakfast. The restaurant Los Infantes is excellent.

Also noted.

Thanks

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Segovia is indeed a jewel. Please do take this advice and spend extra time there. We also loved Valladolid.

Both great cities, I agree.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Today we are in La Granja in hostal La Chata. Via booking.com, price includes breakfast (between 9-10am).

Noted.

We didn't take the camino route to La Granja, but got off earlier en walked through a beautiful forest en then alongside the river. I attached the route.

Sorry but couldn't figure out the route/map at all ;-(

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Camino Madrid 2022

Camino Madrid: A Beautiful but Lightly Used Pilgrimage

caminomadrid2022.blogspot.com

I walked the Camino Madrid in 2022. Started in Madrid and stopped in sahagun. You might find some useful info for your planning in my blog.

Great read, Larry, and some fine photos.

I've noted the absence of pit-stops along some of the stretches. I like to travel light so not overly keen on carrying water and food (I stop at all the fuentes and a lot of bars!).

Also interesting to read about the temperature variations.

'The journey without a destination seems to be fleeing. The destination without a journey seems to be just escaping.' Words to ponder as I walk.

Thanks

PS I'm one of those who love the great open spaces and the big horizons of the meseta! Give me the meseta over pine forests any day.

 

[Larry OHeron]

Great read, Larry, and some fine photos.

I've noted the absence of pit-stops along some of the stretches. I like to travel light so not overly keen on carrying water and food (I stop at all the fuentes and a lot of bars!).

Also interesting to read about the temperature variations.

'The journey without a destination seems to be fleeing. The destination without a journey seems to be just escaping.' Words to ponder as I walk.

Thanks

PS I'm one of those who love the great open spaces and the big horizons of the meseta! Give me the meseta over pine forests any day.

A mix is always good, but I've been on the meseta three times now on three different caminos and I've always found something to enjoy in the experience

 

[Bachibouzouk]

A mix is always good, but I've been on the meseta three times now on three different caminos and I've always found something to enjoy in the experience

Variety and the spice of life - agreed.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Hi. I'm on the Madrid right now. Today we are in La Granja in hostal La Chata. Via booking.com, price includes breakfast (between 9-10am).
Tomorrow after breakfast we will visit the gardens. Then on to Segovia for 2 nights. We're not yet sure of the stages after that.
Until now, we are really enjoying this camino. The surroundings are great. The walk up Fuenfría went fine, it was not as hard as I expected. But somehow it took us quite some time to get here. We didn't take the camino route to La Granja, but got off earlier en walked through a beautiful forest en then alongside the river. I attached the route.

Buen Camino

Keep those reports coming in. I'm following you.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Oh, and you can get the special pilgrim passport at the santiagochurch in Madrid.

Yes! In the sacristy, and there is a special pilgrim blessing as well. On our most recent camino, even though we weren't walking from Madrid or to Madrid, we went back to the Iglesia de Santiago and asked for a stamp, the last we would get on that trip. The priest at first was puzzled, then smiled, delighted that his stamp was the last.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

I'm thinking about this Camino for next year. I need to do more research but to be honest I'm not keen on the climb up to Segovia. I might take the bus from Madrid. And do Segovia to Santiago

The climb up to the top of the pass was challenging for us. The broken stones of the old Roman road was a twisted ankle waiting to happen. We went slowly. But the walk down from the top of the pass is breathtaking and unforgettable. You can Segovia from miles away and the meseta beyond it. The walk down was more than the worth the challenging walk up.

When we arrived at the outskirts of Segovia, we couldn't take another step with some coffee. The barista served us extra with some cookies. It revived us quickly. The sight of the aquaduct was stunning. We lingered there awhile and came back in the evening when it is all lit up and a jewel.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The sight of the aquaduct was stunning. We lingered there awhile and came back in the evening when it is all lit up and a jewel.

It is amazing and in.pristine condition. We climbed up to a higher elevation at the one end of it during the day, then took this picture as night fell. It's a priceless jewel for sure.

 

[Myra13]

Sorry but couldn't figure out the route/map at all ;-(

when you walk down the pass, you arrive at the Fuente de la Reina (as said at the map) there you don't follow the arrows, but take the road to the right (a little backwards.)
But doing so you don't have the views at Segovia, so maybe make the turn to Valsain/ La Granja later on the route.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

when you walk down the pass, you arrive at the Fuente de la Reina (as said at the map) there you don't follow the arrows, but take the road to the right (a little backwards.)

OK I get it now.

But doing so you don't have the views at Segovia, so maybe make the turn to Valsain/ La Granja later on the route.

That's the route I was thinking of following.

Thanks for clarification.

 

[Larry OHeron]

OK I get it now.



That's the route I was thinking of following.

Thanks for clarification.

Valsain may not have food avail. However hospitalera was an angel.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Las Palomas restaurant in Valsain is very good, though not inexpensive. Closed Mondays.

 

[timr]

A compensatory highlight (after a slightly trying morning) was lunch in the Argentian restaurant in Valsaín. Although it was full, and quite smart - it is not a bar, he fitted me in! Despite all that happened I would happily go again. An easy walk onward to La Granja - you can see it and follow your nose.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-bovine-incident-todo-toro.47949/

 

[Bachibouzouk]

A compensatory highlight (after a slightly trying morning) was lunch in the Argentian restaurant in Valsaín. Although it was full, and quite smart - it is not a bar, he fitted me in! Despite all that happened I would happily go again. An easy walk onward to La Granja - you can see it and follow your nose.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-bovine-incident-todo-toro.47949/

What a wonderful little anecdote and beautifully told. I'd like to have added a laughing emoji to your tale but have no idea how to do it. You'll have to settle for a 'like'.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

In terms of planning resources, I also found very useful:
The Camino de Madrid section on Gronze.com, including the "Al Loro" (To the parrot) tab which many don't notice. If Spanish is not your forte, Chrome will translate the site to English.

Have worked my way through the Gronze itinerary. Google (?) translation very useful - and sometimes rather amusing. Some 'schoolboy howlers' that made me chuckle.

Place names: Three Songs (Tres Cantos), Snow (Nieva) and Crankshaft (Cigunuela).

I also liked: queen stage (etapa reina) for the Cerdilla to Segovia section, which had me wondering what sort of hikers I might encounter that day ;-)

Also on that same stage up to and over Fuenfria; our knees will thank you (nuestra rodillas lo agredeceran).

Gronze reminded me that I should re-read: For Whom The Bell Tolls (Valsain), El Licenciado Vidriera from Cervantes' Exemplary Novels (Coca) and Asterix En Hispanie (Coca).

Asterix En Hispanie is a gentle send-up of Spain, Spaniards and Spanish culture. As always some great names (Soupalognon y Crouton, Ielosubmarine, etc ...), puns and cultural spoofs. Coca, or Cauca, only actually appears in one plate, a very similar one to the following one (Segovia), both are spoofing the Semana Santa processions with a procession of druids.

Coca is only mentioned in a list of Spanish wines that a Genoese innkeeper is serving up to Rodaja, the protagonist of El Licenciado Vidrieda, on his trip around Italy.

As for Whom The Bell Tolls, I will re-read it as I walk. Interestingly the phrase 'Did the earth move for you?' apparently comes from the novel.

Gronze asserts that Cervantes and Shakespeare were in Valladolid at the same period (1605), although without meeting each other. Perhaps? The received wisdom I have is that Shakespeare never ventured abroad. Not sure how much these two great writers had in common anyway but they do appeared to have died within days of each other in 1616.

 

[Myra13]

An update of our camino after staying in Segovia for 2 nights. Our original plan was walking to Añe, because we usually walk 20-25km. But the albergue in Añe is still closed. We didn't want 32 km to Santa Maria, so we walked 13km to Los Huertos and slept in the 4-bed albergue. The bar opend at 17.30 and we had a meal (good hamburger) there.
Next day walked to Santa Maria la Real de Nieva, slept in Hostal Avanto, about 2km before the town. We first walked there, showered and walked without backpack into town.
From there we walked to Coca, about 25km. And there we are now. From here on there are 25km stretches to the next albergues. There are some in between if you walk other distances.
There is also an albergue in the first town out of Segovia, we went there for coffee. This bar als has a pilgrimsmenu! But is closed on monday and thursday afternoon. So this maybe an option if you don't want or need to stay in Segovia.
Buen Camino
Myra

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Gronze reminded me that I should re-read: For Whom The Bell Tolls (Valsain), El Licenciado Vidriera from Cervantes' Exemplary Novels (Coca) and Asterix En Hispanie (Coca).

I was definitely thinking about For Whom The Bell Tolls as I walked the Madrid. I could imagine the bands of people in the hills.

As for Whom The Bell Tolls, I will re-read it as I walk. Interestingly the phrase 'Did the earth move for you?' apparently comes from the novel.

Gronze asserts that Cervantes and Shakespeare were in Valladolid at the same period (1605), although without meeting each other. Perhaps?

I missed this comment, thanks for highlighting it.

There are some interesting things said about Shakespeare including that he was a Sufi and that his plays were designed to teach.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

"Al Loro" (To the parrot)

Rodaja, in El Licenciado Vidrieda, initially refuses to become a 'loro' (join the army) preferring to continue his studies but after he has recovered from his madness (believing he is made of glass) he does so - and dies in Flanders. I'm assuming Cervantes, who of course had been a soldier, is implying that soldiers are showy, plumed up and make a lot of noise.