Flew out with Vueling from Heathrow to A Coruna, just under £100 for return flights.
Bus from A Coruna airport into Puerta Real cost less than 2 Euros. Last stop is just by the Plaza de Pita Maria. I stayed at the Hostal Alboran (25 Eur) about 50 metres from the Plaza and and a few 100 metres from the start of the route at the Church of Santiago.
http://www.hostalalboran.es
Having checked in, I went for a walk around to take some photos and find something to eat. There was a fiesta of some sort behind the Church of Santiago which I watched for a while and then went in search of food. A brief stop in an Irish Bar to load up on carbohydrates and I ended up at the Cafe Bar Puerta Del Sol, tasty tapas and slightly cheaper compared to the Rua de Franja, although none are expensive really.
The next morning I left the hostal at 7:45 to walk up to the start of the Camino. It was still dark (something I hadn’t thought about having never walked this time of the year before) and the streets surprisingly dead. Although I have walked the Camino Ingles from Coruna before (in 2008), some of the route out of the city had changed and along the promenade alongside the ria was a pleasant few kilometres (thanks Johnny for the updated guide). The citizens of Coruna were by now awake and busily route-marching, cycling or jogging their way along the promenade and back.
The route out alongside the airport and through Xira was again new to me having previously walked via Cambre but again was very pleasant. There is a small section that skirts some industrial units at Alvedro but there are still nice views beyond them across the Galician countryside.
If you do the section to Bruma\Meson Do Vento in one day then there is no doubt that at 30+km it is a long day with a 5km steep uphill section in the last quarter but a lovely walk and the views back towards the coast and Coruna as you ascend the hill are worth the effort. I stayed in Meson Do Vento at the Pension Meson Novo which has been mentioned several times in other threads but is a very nice overnight stop and run by a lovely couple. I don’t eat onion and very sadly had to leave the Tortilla they had provided as a tapa with my large beer. Later that night I ordered some Pulpo and this came out alongside another wedge of Tortilla. I felt very ungrateful and again, to my embarrassment
, I had to repeat that I didn’t like onion. Oh it’s ok, came the reply, I’ve made you one without any. Delicious too! The owners said the route had been busier this year with a noticeable increase in English and Irish Peregrinos.
The next day to Sigueiro was sunny, hot and pretty uneventful. I left quite late at 9:45 and stopped at the Bar Cruciero in A Calle but other than that plodded on steadily to arrive in Sigueiro at about 4 pm. I have walked the 4km straight forest track into Sigueiro 3 times now and although I feel I ought to enjoy every minute of the walk, I still can’t wait to get this small section out of the way each time.
Stayed at Hostal Miras but ate at a nice, bright, lively place called Restaurante Cortes
http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?hl=en&ll= ... 39,,0,11.7. Food was good, service was courteous and quick and it was full of locals with a high turnover of tables.
Next morning I left really early (6:45) in order to make the most of my single day in Santiago. The first 4 km are through forest tracks which in the dark and without a torch was an interesting experience. Luckily I had a reasonable idea of direction from my previous ventures this way and with the light from my mobile display I was just about able to check way markers until the route returned to civilisation and street lighting. Also glad of the reflective vest and rucksack band that I packed last minute after the thread that was raised on this in the forum. There are several sections of the last day that are on or close to the N550 Tui – Coruna road so worth the extra few ounces of weight. Sun rose above the horizon at 8:45 and slowly burnt way the mist that lay in the valleys surrounding Santiago. It really was a beautiful way to approach the city. The subsequent Poligono not so great but you win some, you lose some.
Arrived in Santiago and I just sat in the plaza sitting across from the Cathedral and watched the various groups and individuals arrive. I love this part of the whole experience, just watching peoples’ reactions and emotions as they walk into the plaza and look up at the Cathedral and celebrate with each other. I feel a bit guilty having only walked 3 days to get that same end result but I could only spare a few days away from home and family this time.
I attended the midday mass but, as I’m not religious, for the spectacle rather than as an active participant and then continued to have a relaxing day in Santiago.
The following day I took the train from Santiago down to Redondela. The railway and Camino Portugues run adjacent to each other in several places and there were plenty of Peregrinos on route still with a further 1,2 or 3 days to walk until reaching their goal. At Redondela I walked down into town from the station, managing to take in several hundred metres of the Camino Portugues
and then took a taxi up to Vigo Airport for the return flight to Heathrow (only 15min\15 Eur transfer).
Overall a flying visit to Galicia but one that I felt compelled somehow to do having just taken voluntary severance from work after 25 years. A very good way to clear the head and think about what to do in the future.
Walking on my own was not as lonely as I thought it would be. I missed the banter of the small group I normally walk in and I saw no other Peregrinos on the route but it was a really rewarding experience to do so alone and I would have no hesitation to do so again, although next visit will be Camino Portugues with my wife and sister-in-law who have finally been persuaded by my addiction to this forum and I suspect, more strongly, by watching "The Way".
Some images from my brief Camino.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1ldQXtkyJM[/youtube]
Regards
Mig
