As for the English Coast to Coast, I won't be camping and someone (English person) told me a couple of years ago that it is so popular that accommodations have to be booked a year in advance if you're doing it in the summer. Assume there is some hyperbole in there but was that your experience? Also, were you able to book a room for one night or did most require multiple night stays?
There are lots of blogs to read about the C2C, but I’ve copied below the notes I made, in case anyone else is reading this and wondering what are the cheapest places to stay on the C2C if not camping. Jill
Notes from the Coast 2 Coast
Mon 15 June, Lulus Guest House St Bees – on St Bees railway station platform. Room overlooked railway (not noisy). Tiny bathroom, but good sized shower. Should have had supper here, but we went to the Queens Pub instead. Worst fish and chips ever (thick soggy batter and mushy fish, as well as peas). Good continental breakfast at GH, including fresh strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. Chatted with Liz and Alan from New Zealand.
Tue 16 June, Ennerdale Country House Hotel Cleator - Bath tub. Glad to stop here and not have to walk on. Just far enough for first day. The walk from Cleator started in rain. Bought some flapjacks from shop, then headed up Dent. Thick mist on top, so no views. Not sure we were on the correct path, but a couple came past us and confirmed we were OK. Very steep descent to Nanny beck. Nice walk along there to Ennerdale Bridge where we stopped at the Fox & Hounds Pub. Long 3½ mile walk around the southern edge of Ennerdale Water, rocky path, hard going, so pleased to finally get to YH just before 6pm.
Wed 17 June, Ennerdale Youth Hostel – warden Nathan 5 star! 2 x bunk beds (sleeps 4) but just the 2 of us. Shower, toilet and wash basin. Good supper, chatted to 2 young guys from Notts, Nico (Ethiopian) just finished pharmacy degree and his “dad” Jack, gentle old man, worked in Ethiopia constructing (manager / supervisor) gravel roads. Good breakfast. Misty drizzle all day, but not too bad. Cold and windy on top after climbing Loft Beck. Fabulous views when mist cleared. Could see cairns to follow. No C2C markings at all. Got to slate mine about 2pm and had coffee and lunch in café till 5pm and YH opened. Working slate mine next to YH.
Thu 18 June, Honister Hause Youth Hostel – chatted to Fraser (Scottish, climbing all 200+ Wainwright Fells, 24 left to do) and Brett (Canadian). Did our own supper (noodles, soup and Mars Bar Cake), but had cooked breakfast.
Fri 19 June, Grasmere Butharlyp Howe Youth Hostel – long tiring day today, but thankfully no rain, just a bit of drizzle and mist, overcast all day. Managed to find our way OK (but we consulted Stedman continuously). Met Brett just after Greenup Edge, who’d got lost early on (had left an hour before us), and 2 guys from Midlands, Colin and Malcolm, who’d also got lost at the top somewhere. The path was rocky and boulders, the whole way, very hard going, and peat bogs at the top. Left at 9am, arrived at 6pm. Had YHA supper with Colin and Malcolm. Showered and now in bed. This is a tough walk.
Sat 20 June, Patterdale Youth Hostel – 1 x bunk bed, wash basin with press down taps and no plug. Richard’s leg was swollen yesterday, so I phoned Packhorse and he got a lift today; picked up at 2:30pm at Grasmere. So I walked alone today. Overcast and misty the whole time, cleared up late afternoon. Lots of day hikers came up to Grisedale Tarn from Patterdale. Easy going path up and down the other side. About 12 kms. Lovely walk. Got to Patterdale at 3pm, found R at YH and we went for a drink at the White Lion. Have booked supper in the YH again tonight. Good vaue at £8.50 for 3 courses. The pub is at least £10 for one main dish. 11 for supper including 4 American females and 1 young Greek teacher doing the C2C in 12 days!!
Sun 21 June, New Ing Lodge Shap – arrogant owner (Scott), friendly breakfast girl, bathroom grubby in corners. R’s leg still swollen, so as it’s a long tough walk today over Kidsty Pike, with a high possibility of getting lost, and there is nobody else I can walk with, I phoned Packhorse again to pick us both up. We took a leisurely walk to Glenridding at Ullswater and back this morning before they picked us up at 3pm. Peter, the driver, recommended Shap Chippy so went there for fish and chips. Very good and only £6 each. Walked to Shap Abbey first (2kms there and 2kms back).
Mon 22 June (day 7), The George Hotel Orton – easy low-level walk from Shap to Orton. Cold and rainy, on and off, all day. Saw only 2 hikers the whole day until we got to Orton, then saw many. The 9 Aussies we’ve seen since St Bees are also staying in Orton, coming from Bampton this morning. Chatted with Marg in the bar. Saving some money and having noodles for supper with some red wine we bought in Patterdale. Bumped into Liz and Alan (NZ) in the Chocolate Shop about 4pm, who stayed at our B&B in St Bees. They’ve teamed up with a Canadian couple. Orton is a lovely village, no tourists, only hikers. Spent some time looking around the church (1293).
Tue 23 June, Kirkby Stephen Hostel – best weather day so far (one week into walk). Didn’t rain at all; got a bit sunburnt. 20kms, not too difficult, but still tired at the end. Kept passing the same people – the 9 Aussies, Liz & Alan (NZ), the Canadian couple, and a UK couple. Across fields and over moorland today. Getting tired of sheep shit, but not the sheep as the lambs are cute. Hostel closed till 5pm so had a drink at The Black Bull, then booked a table at The Mango Tree (Indian) for 7:30.
Wed 24 June, Keld Bunk Barn & Yurts – spacious, £55 plus £5 for electricity (!!!), no water, long walk to loo; Michelle (very welcoming), and Ian (pleasant). R wanted a lift, but bags only to Keld today (no passengers), no bus and taxi +/- £35, so he walked. Thankfully no rain, cold wind on top and most of the day. Not too difficult up to Nine Standards Rigg. The 7 Aussies there too (and several others), so we stuck behind the Aussies across the peat bogs, as afraid we might get lost if the mist came in. Peat bogs dry!! Yess!! Mist (murk) hurtled across the fell tops. Long day (24kms) but arrived safely (and tired) about 4pm at the yurts. Great place! Have ordered dinner, wine and breakfast (delivered to our yurt).
Thu 25 June, The Buck Hotel Reeth – ignored at reception, grubby corners (not clean), booked a table for supper but they had no idea who was sitting where. Stayed by the river the whole way ignoring Stedman’s route. Detoured into Muker for good coffee (hot milk!!). But long day again, 9am to 5pm. Pony and horse harassed us! Saw some cows (bull?) in the distance that went for 2 walkers with sheep dog. Drizzled slightly but otherwise no rain, just overcast. Lovely buttercup fields. Saw some pheasants and lots of cute rabbits. Booked a table for 8pm. Chaotic. Horrible meal (soggy puff pastry), but R’s steak and ale pie was good. Tummy ache in night and had to take an immodium this morning. Worst breakfast so far – hard scrambled egg and cordial juice. Third most expensive accommodation on the C2C and least favourite.
Fri 26 June and Sat 27 June, The Black Lion Hotel Richmond – coffee station in room but silly tiny cups. Very spacious twin bed room, very large fluffy white towels. Fairly easy going walk today. Good weather, overcast and some slight drizzle. Stayed two nights, so got some laundry done. One load of laundry cost £5 for wash and dry; handed in at breakfast and returned when room made up while we were out; brilliant. Early Bird Special (dinner) was good value, £10.95 – 2 courses between 5pm to 7pm.
Sun 28 June, White Swan Inn Danby Wiske – tedious flat walk of 22.5kms from Richmond. 2nd half on roads, very quiet. Met the Belgian couple in Richmond yesterday; first met them in the rain in the shop at Cleator, and again today on arrival at The White Swan; they are wild camping. Very poor welcome at The White Swan, the barman didn’t smile, didn’t chat, showed us our room, told us to fill in the breakfast list, and went back downstairs. The most expensive place and the worst welcome. Nice room though, recently renovated, spacious, shower, coffee station, clean, faces the village green. Also saw Alan and Liz (NZ) today in the distance, but nobody else. Some Aussies and an American couple staying at The White Swan. Service improved with the friendly lady at dinner and the chef at breakfast.
Mon 29 June, Queen Catherine Hotel Osmotherly (14th day) – 20 mins off the C2C, tiny loo and shower, washbasin in room, cramped twin-bed room, but best coffee station: mugs, cups, glasses, 6 packets hot choc, capuccino, latte, etc. R got a lift with the bag today at 10.30am. I left at 9am, met no-one the whole morning except a man hiking the opposite way. Saw the 2 Americans and 3 Aussies just ahead of me. Caught up with the Americans at the A19 and we dashed across together. They walked on at Ingleby Cross while I went in the Blue Bell Inn. Thought it was closed at first (12:30pm) but the barman came out and said it was open. Went inside, all dark, no-one there, but a lady came and switched on the lights and gave me a cold beer from the fridge. The ales on tap in UK are all luke warm, yeuk. The 3 Aussies then came in. Got to Osmotherly about 2:30pm and R in room already.
Tue 30 June, Buck Inn Chop Gate – the weather has finally changed and today I walked in shorts for the first time. R went with the bags as too much up and down steep hills today. Met up with Liz and Alan again at a hill top cairn. Julie (American from Michigan) and Peter (nice English guy) were sitting with them. Peter’s wife Elaine took the transfer. Met the American couple at Lord Stone’s café, they are also staying here at the Buck Inn. Phoned Buck Inn from Wainstones for a lift at Clay Gate Top at 4pm. Fantastic views today, but very hot and sunny, though cool wind across the moors made it walkable. R still unwell so only had soup for supper. My cod was overcooked and tough; waitress didn’t ask how the food was, so I didn’t say anything. R unwell through the night, so I phoned Packhorse at 7:15am and he got a lift again.
Wed 1 July, The Lion Inn Blakey Ridge – only 14kms today. The Americans wanted a lift NOW and wouldn’t wait 2 minutes for me to put my boots on, so Helen had to take them and come back for me. All the C2C’ers were off, I was probably last from Clay Bank Top. Met Peter and Elaine briefly. They took the Cleveland Way turnoff, so very surprised to see them at The Lion Inn about an hour after me. Open moors, very windy, very hot, very boring walk along disused railway line. Got to Lion Inn about 1pm, about half hour after R. Got a “cold” beer from the fridge at the bar, but it was as “cold” as the beer on tap. Lots of people at The Lion Inn for lunch. Tiny twin-bed room, lovely private bathroom with Dove shampoo and moisturising wash. Had a lovely soak in the bath. Best pub supper so far – R had leek and potato soup (but a not nice stale roll) and I had cheese jacket potato with a decent salad and proper home-made salad dressing. Main courses were far too big to order.
Thu 2 July, Arncliffe Arms Glaisdale – left quite late today, 9:45am. R walked today, 16kms. Over moorland, desolate, but nice weather. The hot sun of the last 2 days disappeared under overcast skies, so nice walking weather. Saw no other hikers after 3 young guys at Fat Betty, and 2 older men, and 1 guy going the other way. Saw lots of grouse in the heather today. Really liked The Lion Inn, popular with locals all day too. Arncliffe Arms rather mediocre and quiet after The Lion Inn, but generally OK. Lasagnes for supper were good, with good garlic bread and real salad dressing to go with the good side salad.
Fri 3 July, Station Tavern Grosmont – only 6kms walk today, and then went to Whitby by steam train for the afternoon. Just as well, as very hot day. £10.50 each (over 60s). Whitby lovely seaside town. PACKED with people as glorious sunny day – even some people in the freezing cold sea! Had cod and chips for supper. Not the worst, but not the best either. Ditto for R’s chicken. Surprisingly empty for a Friday evening and the last place to stay on the C2C. Only one other C2C guy staying here – saw him later in Robin Hood’s Bay.
Sat 4 July, The Grosvenor Hotel Robin Hood’s Bay – R had the brilliant idea of getting the train again to Whitby this morning and walking 6 miles along the coast path to Robin Hood’s Bay, instead of the 25kms of the C2C that we were both not looking forward to (too far). Thunder and lightening last night, and raining this morning, but gradually cleared up to a sunny day. Left Whitby at 11am and got to RHB at 3pm. Checked into the Grosvenor. Had a small beer at The Victoria Hotel, then walked down to the sea. Crowded with families. Tide was in!! Got our boots wet, took photos, tossed my pebble from St Bees into the sea (R had lost his sometime in the last couple of days) and bought a t-shirt.
The End! Had 3 starters for supper between us. Bought a bottle of red wine in a shop (£6.99) rather than pay £5+ for a glass.
Summary
Very few facilities for coffee stops between overnights, except: Ennerdale Bridge (day 2), Honister Hause (day 3), Muker (day 10) and Elaines, between Nun Cote Nook Reeth & Richmond (day 11).
Long evenings, but we never able to sit outside and enjoy them – it was too cold – or there were midges – or there was no outside facility where one could sit – or it was raining.
UK very expensive, even the “cheap” budget youth hostels were over £20 each (per person).