Castilblanco to Almaden (that stage from hell again)

[geraldkelly]

I often get asked about water on the Via de la Plata and the advice I always give people is carry enough water for the whole day, you cannot trust water sources outside of villages.

Well, this morning Sevilla Actualidad is reporting that the pilgrim tap between Castilblanco and Almaden - the only water source on 32km of open country - is broken.
http://www.sevillaactualidad.com/pr...n-averia-unica-fuente-castilblanco-y-almaden/

As we get into the busy season on the Via this is a timely reminder of the importance of setting off with enough water for the whole day.

They also talk about a change of route. I'm not sure what that's about. I know there has been a discussion recently about moving the route off the road but I don't think this is a reference to that. Anybody got more details?

Gerald

 

[Bradypus]

I think that people are sometimes caught out by that stage. Very early in the walk and those whose previous experience is on the Frances may not really have taken on board the lack of infrastructure such as water taps. It really does take a great deal more foresight to walk the VDLP comfortably and safely.

 

[amancio]

VdlP is quite a mess at the moment:

the stream between Sevilla and Guillena is impossible to cross at the moment.
The only water source between Castilblanco de los Arroyos, on km 18 aprox, is broken
the albergue municipal in Almadén de la Plata is closed after an arson attack
They are suspiciously building a new track alongside the tarmac road and rumours are the Berrocal GORGEOUS crossing might be banned to pilgrims in the future

A complete disaster!!! There was a public demonstration demanding the previouls route to be open, the so called Salto de la Trocha, which in turn would allow us to avoid any tarmac on this stage, but the regional government is not moving a finger.

The Camino in Seville, the most beautiful springtime landscape in all of the Caminos I know, is in serious danger.

I would recommend anyone planning to go that way:

1) take a bus from Sevilla to Guillena and avoid first stage alltogether

2) Then, take plenty of water for the Castilblanco-Almadén, it i s31 km, with no water source in between.

3) Book ahead of Almadén, just in case, the massive albergue is closed and will not be opening for a few weeks, in the best case scenario. There are reasonably priced pensions and a suspicious looking albergue in Almadén

4) Enjoy the most glorious spring in years, we had so much water, it is unbelievable, everything is pristine, green. Beware, some streams will carry a bit more water than usual, be ready to take of shoes if needed!

 

[Kanga]

I'm looking forward to starting in a fortnight. I'll heed your advice, but should I backtrack to Itálica from Guillena, maybe catch a cab there? I wanted to see the Roman ruins and the monastery of San Isidoro.

 

[Jill81]

I'm looking forward to starting in a fortnight. I'll heed your advice, but should I backtrack to Itálica from Guillena, maybe catch a cab there? I wanted to see the Roman ruins and the monastery of San Isidoro.

If you have a day in Seville before starting your Camino it’s easy to catch the 170A bus from the main station to Italica and they return every half hour throughout the day. The site opens at 9:00, 10:00 on Sundays, and is closed on Mondays. When I visited in February there was a free guided tour on Friday mornings in English. The monastery is not far away and could be combined in a half day visit to the area. I hope you can visit — it’s a beautiful site and well worth it!
Buen Camino!

 

[Kanga]

@Jill81 that sounds like a plan. I am wondering where is the stream between Seville and Guillema - and could I walk from Itálica? I shall go look at some maps!

(Edited) - well yes, I can see that the "stream" runs most of the way.

 

[Bradypus]

@Jill81 that sounds like a plan. I am wondering where is the stream between Seville and Guillema - and could I walk from Itálica? I shall go look at some maps!

(Edited) - well yes, I can see that the "stream" runs most of the way.

If you look at the section between Italica and Guillena on Google Maps and choose "satellite view" the stream is very obvious - the green wavy line of trees running east-west which crosses an arrow-straight north-south dirt track.

 

[Kanga]

Arroyo de los Molinos I think. Anyway, it has answered my question. The water may have gone down by the time I get to Seville, but if not I shall catch the bus to Guillema.

 

[LTfit]

Arroyo de los Molinos I think. Anyway, it has answered my question. The water may have gone down by the time I get to Seville, but if not I shall catch the bus to Guillema.

Hi @Kanga you are correct, it is Arroyo de los Molinos. Almost every year it is impossible to cross. One February I needed to take a detour - the bar in Italica explained what to do - and when I arrived in Castilblanco two lads had crossed with their backpacks on their heads! The arroyo came up to their chests. My limit is just beyond my knees

Do visit the ruins, I really enjoyed seeing them. Buen Camino

@amancio I agree, the Plata is such a wonderful walk, it disheartens me to hear about all the changes. I sure hope that they do not close down Barrocal park.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'm looking forward to starting in a fortnight. I'll heed your advice, but should I backtrack to Itálica from Guillena, maybe catch a cab there? I wanted to see the Roman ruins and the monastery of San Isidoro.

Kanga, will you blog or post daily to the forum while on the VdPl? If so, I would love to follow!

 

[amancio]

Dear Kanga, you should have no problem to get buses from Sevilla to Italica, and after the visit you might have to go back to Seville in order to catch the bus to Guillena. In any case, Italica is worth a visit by itself. Buen camino, compañera!

 

[nycwalking]

I'm looking forward to starting in a fortnight. I'll heed your advice, but should I backtrack to Itálica from Guillena, maybe catch a cab there? I wanted to see the Roman ruins and the monastery of San Isidoro.

Buen camino.

 

[geraldkelly]

I will be there next week and will report back.

Sometimes when I see all the negativity I really regret posting on this forum.

 

[ranthr]

I'm looking forward to starting in a fortnight. I'll heed your advice, but should I backtrack to Itálica from Guillena, maybe catch a cab there? I wanted to see the Roman ruins and the monastery of San Isidoro.

There is a nice , cheap hotel in Santiponce at the oher side of the road of the entrance to Italica. Cheaper than any place in Seville.

 

[amancio]

I will be there next week and will report back.

Sometimes when I see all the negativity I really regret posting on this forum.

Dear Gerald, I would love to have great news about my favourite (home) stretch of all caminos, but this is what is actually happening, the authorities are letting the Camino languish, and that annoys me a log. Lucky you, you will be there next week!

 

[grayland]

@amancio "...There are reasonably priced pensions and a suspicious looking albergue in Almadén.."
What does "suspicious looking" mean?

@geraldkelly This thread appears to much more positive and upbeat than others in the past. Most of the posters are veterans of the VdlP who are fans of the route. I really don't see any negativity here.
Sorry you regret posting in the thread.
Ed

 

[Bradypus]

@amancio "...There are reasonably priced pensions and a suspicious looking albergue in Almadén.."
What does "suspicious looking" mean?

I wondered about that too. When I passed through last October there were two albergues in town - the municipal and La Casa del Reloj. I stayed in La Casa del Reloj and was very happy with it. Friendly welcome from the lady in charge. Fairly crudely partitioned toilet and shower area but more than adequate for the very small number of beds. A useful kitchen. Very central. If I passed that way again I would be very glad to stay there a second time.

 

[Kanga]

Kanga, will you blog or post daily to the forum while on the VdPl? If so, I would love to follow!

I’m only an occasional poster when walking, but if I do it will be a “Live from the Camino” thread. I have downloaded “Find Penguins” for my family.

 

[Kanga]

There is a nice , cheap hotel in Santiponce at the oher side of the road of the entrance to Italica. Cheaper than any place in Seville.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I’m only an occasional poster when walking, but if I do it will be a “Live from the Camino” thread. I have downloaded “Find Penguins” for my family.

Laurie (@peregrina2000) uses Find Penguins, too and I will be following her from her start in Almeira. Will yours be open to forum members, or just family? Otherwise, I will def be watching for your updates here!

 

[Becky 59]

Can I ask, what is "Find Penguins"?

 

[Kanga]

@Becky 59 it is an app for smartphones that makes it easy to post photos, post a blog that includes a breadcrumb trail on a map, which can then be shared with a selected audience. I think! I have not used it yet.

 

[amancio]

@Bradypus @grayland

the "suspiscious" looking albergue in Almadén is impossible to miss as you come into town, it is near the statue with the dogs and the hunters. It does not show up in any guide, it is not an official albergue in any way, and the owner can be quite pushy, he is some times waiting for pilgrims who arrive exhausted in Almadén after 31 km and tries to bring you in. Very cramped, not the cleanest either, and rude, pushy owner.

this is a photo of the place

 

[Bradypus]

@Bradypus @grayland

the "suspiscious" looking albergue in Almadén is impossible to miss as you come into town, it is near the statue with the dogs and the hunters.

I must confess that I can't remember seeing it. But I had already decided to aim for La Casa del Reloj so perhaps it just didn't register in my mind as I passed it. I was certainly very hot, tired and thirsty at the time.

 

[amancio]

Indeed, Casa del Reloj has always been there ("always" as in "since 2014", when I first went to Almadén, been back there every year ever since). You will see it this time, particularly if the pesky owner comes out to grab you in!

 

[Jean & Claude]

I will be there next week and will report back.

Sometimes when I see all the negativity I really regret posting on this forum.

Hi all ... looking forward to reading your next postings, Gerald - and others.... We will be starting our trek from Seville on April 22 - excited! I really don’t want to miss out on any part of what the Via de la Plata has to offer (but praying for the sun to shine). Thank you all...

 

[grayland]

@Jean-Claude i think you will enjoy your adventure.
Don't go with expectations that it will be very similar to the CF.
Your experience will make it much simpler to adjust..to but it is very different with fewer pilgrims and less commercial aspects.
The infrastructure is adequate but requires daily planning which adds to the enjoyment.
Enjoy!

 

[Jean & Claude]

@grayland...thanks! That is why I (we) chose the VDLP ... the difference, the challenge, the feeling, etc... and look forward to everything it has to offer...

 

[grayland]

In my experience....The VdlP offers the biggest challenges and opportunities of all of the other major routes. It is very doable by most people...but you are not spoon fed and pampered along the way.
You actually have to plan and adapt as you go along.
No roller suitcases being carried forward each day on the Via de la Plata.
Sadly...it may come to that one day...so walk it now while it is still a challenge.

 

[Bradypus]

In my experience....The VdlP offers the biggest challenges and opportunities of all of the other major routes. It is very doable by most people...but you are not spoon fed and pampered along the way.

I walked the VDLP in three stages over the past year. Very different from any of the northern Camino routes I have walked. In many ways very like the Camino Frances of the early 1990s: long stages, limited opportunites for food and drink and water, far fewer pilgrims, small albergues. I walked the two stages from Bejar to Santiago in January and February of 2017 and 2018. A total of 20 days during which I met 5 other pilgrims and shared my albergues with just one other person on only 3 nights. For me the solitude and simplicity are amongst its best features. I for one hope that it can dodge the attentions of Jacotrans and the like for a few years yet. It would be painfully sad to see it transformed into a southern version of the three-ring-circus that the Camino Frances has become.

 

[Greg Ludford]

Thank you forum members for all this information.
Ani & I are starting the VdlP mid May 2018 (just 4 weeks away!) from Seville.
Looks like it may throw up a few challenges, we may even have to pack flippers & snorkles.
Hopefully it will have warmed up and dried out a bit by then.
We are greatly looking forward to walking this path, good that it's less trod & a little unpredictable.
Our first Camino was Arles to Muxia (Aug-Oct 2015) and it was quite a life changing experience.
If we can recapture some of the magic from that time, particularly from the via Tolosana & via Aragones,
we will be well pleased.
Ultreia & safe travels

 

[patgreen]

I crossed that stream on Thursday without any problem. I got damp trail runners that's all. There was a lot of rain on Friday so it might of got bad again?
It was a lovely walk into Almaden today.

 

[patgreen]

I crossed that stream on Thursday without any problem. I got damp trail runners that's all. There was a lot of rain on Friday so it might of got bad again?
It was a lovely walk into Almaden today.

On my post above I should have said which stream. It's the one between Italica and Guillena .

 

[Hikoi]

I walked the VdlP a couple of years ago, leaving from Sevilla Cathedral. I loved the section from Sevilla to Guillena - with the exception of the short section just before Camas. And that was because of the litter. And my nerves after reading about others’ experiences on this forum. The undulating rural track between Santiponce and Guillena was spectacular for a first timer on the first day, and gave me the exhilaration of walking under an enormous open sky that was a feature of many days of the VdlP. I had no problems crossing the arroyos that wonderful day in late March. Buen Camino!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

I'm looking forward to starting in a fortnight. I'll heed your advice, but should I backtrack to Itálica from Guillena, maybe catch a cab there? I wanted to see the Roman ruins and the monastery of San Isidoro.

Kanga, I really don't think it's worth a detour to Italica. Once you get to Merida, which has mind-blowing Roman history, you'll think "Why did I bother?".

 

[geraldkelly]

Hi

Just a quick update. I went to check the state of the stream before Guillena on Saturday (3 days ago). It was completely impassible. I met a couple who had tried wading it and had turned back. There is an alternative route by following a road which branches left about 500m before the stream (there is a temporary sign) passes a farmhouse on the right, passes under the motorway and then joins the old main road where you turn right and follow into Guillena. It's about 3km longer than the normal route.

Also, regarding the water tap in the park between Castilblanco and Almaden. I was there yesterday and it's completely dry. There is water flowing into a trough but I don't know if it's drinkable. There was no staff around the park yesterday (it was Sunday), just some hungry cats who helped me eat my lunch.

And, in Almaden, Albergue del Peregrino has disappeared, the municipal is closed (broken window downstairs and fire damage visible inside). Happily there are two other albergues in the town and also several guest houses. So no need to panic. I estimate there were about 25 pilgrims in town yesterday who'd started in Seville at the weekend, so that's probably busier than average.

I'll be back in Guillena in a few days and will report again then. Weather is nice now so I expect the flooding will go down quickly.

Gerald

 

[Mel Camino]

Hi

Just a quick update. I went to check the state of the stream before Guillena on Saturday (3 days ago). It was completely impassible. I met a couple who had tried wading it and had turned back. There is an alternative route by following a road which branches left about 500m before the stream (there is a temporary sign) passes a farmhouse on the right, passes under the motorway and then joins the old main road where you turn right and follow into Guillena. It's about 3km longer than the normal route.

Also, regarding the water tap in the park between Castilblanco and Almaden. I was there yesterday and it's completely dry. There is water flowing into a trough but I don't know if it's drinkable. There was no staff around the park yesterday (it was Sunday), just some hungry cats who helped me eat my lunch.

And, in Almaden, Albergue del Peregrino has disappeared, the municipal is closed (broken window downstairs and fire damage visible inside). Happily there are two other albergues in the town and also several guest houses. So no need to panic. I estimate there were about 25 pilgrims in town yesterday who'd started in Seville at the weekend, so that's probably busier than average.

I'll be back in Guillena in a few days and will report again then. Weather is nice now so I expect the flooding will go down quickly.

Gerald

Your updates are greatly appreciated, Gerald. Thank you!

 

[geraldkelly]

Final update on this, in case anybody's still interested.

I walked Seville to Guillena last Wednesday. The river has returned to normal and can be easily crossed just to the right of the road.

I'm back home now and back at work on Monday

Buen Camino everybody!

 

[george.g]

Hi,
Just a heads up, BOTH Albergues in Almaden are closed due to fire, either someone is very careless with the matches..... or....?
Regards
George
PS, there was a working tap in the park, near to the rangers building, just to the left of the trough, on the wall is a new tap with a rough painted shell.

 

[Saint Mike II]

I will be there next week and will report back.
Sometimes when I see all the negativity I really regret posting on this forum.

Hola @geraldkelly. Please don't (imho) reports/writings by professionals such as yourself do make it easier for us prospective pilgrims to make the correct decisions. Cheers