Coastal route or inland route from Porto?

[LisaM]

I am staring the Camino Portugues next Monday (from Lisbon) and am wondering which is the better route to take from Porto - the coastal route or the inland route. Looking at John Brierley's guidebook, the coastal route has more walking on asphalt compared to the inland route.

Are there any recommendations/ opinions on one over the other? I love the ocean and that is why I was attracted to the coastal route. However, if the path is busy and noisy with cars, perhaps it is not such a pleasant experience? Any advice, suggestions would be much appreciate. Thank you.

Lisa

 

[Susan Detlefsen]

I am staring the Camino Portugues next Monday (from Lisbon) and am wondering which is the better route to take from Porto - the coastal route or the inland route. Looking at John Brierley's guidebook, the coastal route has more walking on asphalt compared to the inland route.

Are there any recommendations/ opinions on one over the other? I love the ocean and that is why I was attracted to the coastal route. However, if the path is busy and noisy with cars, perhaps it is not such a pleasant experience? Any advice, suggestions would be much appreciate. Thank you.

Lisa

Hi Lisa when are you planning to leave Lisbon? I plan to leave Porto September 15 by the main route, which I understand is the inland route. Susan D

 

[Doogman]

Hi: I have done both routes, and enjoyed them both. The Coastal Way is fresher in my mind, as that was just last month, so I think that skews my perception a bit, as I would say that I have a slight preference for that. Especially since you are an ocean lover, you should consider the Coastal Way for at least part of the trip. We walked the Coastal as far as Vigo, before joining the main route at Redondela. There are also a number of other places along the way where you could cut inland to join the main route. The Coastal Way includes a lot of boardwalk, cobbles and pavement, but for the most part you are on smaller roads/paths without significant traffic. I did not find that a major issue. We were fortunate with the weather, so any time we were in sight of the ocean, it was fabulous! Enjoy your journey!

 

[Doogman]

Hi Again: I should add that there were not many pilgrims on the Coastal Way. We met maybe 4-5 per day at most until we merged on to the inland route. I quite enjoy being out there "alone", but if camino camaraderie is important to you, you may prefer the inland route.

 

[stevenjarvis]

Hi Doogman, really interested in your experience, I've done Tui to SdC twice and loved it, returning to Vigo to visit Ceas Islands ( another story). Where did you start from ? Was the way marking to "turn right" clear in different locations ?

 

[Doogman]

Hi: When I did the main route, I started at the cathedral in Porto and followed the yellow arrows right through the city. On the coastal route I started in Matosinhos and headed up the coast. But if I was to do that again, I would start at the cathedral, walk along the river to the ocean, and then head up the coast from there.

As I mentioned above, we walked on the Coastal Way as far as Vigo before connecting with the main route at Redondela. I have never done it, but I understand that you can fairly easily turn off the coast at Viana do Castelo and connect to the main route at Rates, or turn off the coast at Caminha and connect to the main route at Valenca. Just from what I have read on this forum, it sounds like both of those "right turn routes" are well marked, but perhaps someone that has actually done those could comment. There are also other threads on this forum that discuss those routes. Good luck!

 

[Eims]

Hi: I have done both routes, and enjoyed them both. The Coastal Way is fresher in my mind, as that was just last month, so I think that skews my perception a bit, as I would say that I have a slight preference for that. Especially since you are an ocean lover, you should consider the Coastal Way for at least part of the trip. We walked the Coastal as far as Vigo, before joining the main route at Redondela. There are also a number of other places along the way where you could cut inland to join the main route. The Coastal Way includes a lot of boardwalk, cobbles and pavement, but for the most part you are on smaller roads/paths without significant traffic. I did not find that a major issue. We were fortunate with the weather, so any time we were in sight of the ocean, it was fabulous! Enjoy your journey!

Hiya Doogman, I am doing the camino coastal route shortly but still undecided as to when to go inland. May I ask, how long did it take you to get to Vigo, walking by the coast? Thanks in advance!

 

[Doogman]

Hi: We had a few short days. We did the following -

Porto - Povoa de Varzim approx. 26km
Povoa de Varzim - Esposende approx. 22km
Esposende - Viana do Castelo approx. 24km
Viana do Castelo - Vila Praia de Ancora approx. 19km
Vila Praia de Ancora - A Guarda approx. 13km
A Guarda - Oia approx. 13km
Oia - Baiona approx. 18km
Baiona - Vigo 28km
Vigo - Redondela approx. 15km

If you like walking greater distances, you could shave a day or two off of the above.

 

[Eims]

Hi: We had a few short days. We did the following -

Porto - Povoa de Varzim approx. 26km
Povoa de Varzim - Esposende approx. 22km
Esposende - Viana do Castelo approx. 24km
Viana do Castelo - Vila Praia de Ancora approx. 19km
Vila Praia de Ancora - A Guarda approx. 13km
A Guarda - Oia approx. 13km
Oia - Baiona approx. 18km
Baiona - Vigo 28km
Vigo - Redondela approx. 15km

If you like walking greater distances, you could shave a day or two off of the above.

Ah, grand. Thanks for that!

 

[LisaM]

Hi Lisa when are you planning to leave Lisbon? I plan to leave Porto September 15 by the main route, which I understand is the inland route. Susan D

Hi Susan, I leave Lisbon on the 5th of September.

 

[LisaM]

Hi: When I did the main route, I started at the cathedral in Porto and followed the yellow arrows right through the city. On the coastal route I started in Matosinhos and headed up the coast. But if I was to do that again, I would start at the cathedral, walk along the river to the ocean, and then head up the coast from there.

As I mentioned above, we walked on the Coastal Way as far as Vigo before connecting with the main route at Redondela. I have never done it, but I understand that you can fairly easily turn off the coast at Viana do Castelo and connect to the main route at Rates, or turn off the coast at Caminha and connect to the main route at Valenca. Just from what I have read on this forum, it sounds like both of those "right turn routes" are well marked, but perhaps someone that has actually done those could comment. There are also other threads on this forum that discuss those routes. Good luck!

Thank you so much Doorman. That helps a lot. You've convinced me to go the coastal route! By the way, did you stop to swim at any of the beaches? Are they busy and how feasible would it be to leave my pack on the beach and go for a swim without the pack disappearing? Thank you.

 

[Doogman]

Thank you so much Doorman. That helps a lot. You've convinced me to go the coastal route! By the way, did you stop to swim at any of the beaches? Are they busy and how feasible would it be to leave my pack on the beach and go for a swim without the pack disappearing? Thank you.

Hi: I hope you enjoy the Coastal Route as much as I did. I don't think you could go wrong with either the Coastal or main routes. I did not do any swimming, but there were others that were. The beaches near Porto were pretty busy, and again up near Caminha. People were also swimming at the beach in Baiona. On other parts of the route the beaches were pretty empty. Obviously, take care where you swim. There may be a reason the beaches were empty.

One suggestion: When crossing the river at Caminha, either by ferry or by boat, turn left and walk along the river to the ocean. Follow the ocean north into A Guarda. It is a beautiful walk. I believe the yellow arrows would take you from the ferry dock on an inland route to A Guarda. Buen Camino!

 

[grayland]

I walked the same route as @Doogman and have no hesitation in recommending it.
The route is very often along the sea or in sight of it.
It goes through many small fishing and seaside villages.
The vacationers/ tourists in the little beach towns were Portugese families for the most part.
The route was very well marked.

 

[Doogman]

Hi: When I did the main route, I started at the cathedral in Porto and followed the yellow arrows right through the city. On the coastal route I started in Matosinhos and headed up the coast. But if I was to do that again, I would start at the cathedral, walk along the river to the ocean, and then head up the coast from there.

As I mentioned above, we walked on the Coastal Way as far as Vigo before connecting with the main route at Redondela. I have never done it, but I understand that you can fairly easily turn off the coast at Viana do Castelo and connect to the main route at Rates, or turn off the coast at Caminha and connect to the main route at Valenca. Just from what I have read on this forum, it sounds like both of those "right turn routes" are well marked, but perhaps someone that has actually done those could comment. There are also other threads on this forum that discuss those routes. Good luck!

@stevenjarvis Sorry - I think I made a mistake. I said that you would turn off at Viana do Castelo to get to Rates. I may have that mixed up - it may be Vila do Conde where you would turn off for Rates. I am trying to confirm, but you may want to search some other threads on this forum that discuss the topic. Sorry!

 

[grayland]

Of course....you would only consider turning off the Coastal Route if you were intending on joining the interior route.

You would not be turning off if you were continuing on the coast to Vigo and then joining the interior at Rondondela.

I encountered more pilgrims walking than Doogman reports. Not crowded by any means...but not lonely.

As always, it is a day to day thing. The number of pilgrims reminded me of my first Camino Frances in March 2009.

 

[LisaM]

Hi: I hope you enjoy the Coastal Route as much as I did. I don't think you could go wrong with either the Coastal or main routes. I did not do any swimming, but there were others that were. The beaches near Porto were pretty busy, and again up near Caminha. People were also swimming at the beach in Baiona. On other parts of the route the beaches were pretty empty. Obviously, take care where you swim. There may be a reason the beaches were empty.

One suggestion: When crossing the river at Caminha, either by ferry or by boat, turn left and walk along the river to the ocean. Follow the ocean north into A Guarda. It is a beautiful walk. I believe the yellow arrows would take you from the ferry dock on an inland route to A Guarda. Buen Camino!

Thank you for your reply Doorman. I have marked your suggestion in my guidebook.

 

[LisaM]

View attachment 28814 I walked the same route as @Doogman and have no hesitation in recommending it.
The route is very often along the sea or in sight of it.
It goes through many small fishing and seaside villages.
The vacationers/ tourists in the little beach towns were Portugese families for the most part.
The route was very well marked.

Thank you!

 

[joeboybollo]

Hi: I hope you enjoy the Coastal Route as much as I did. I don't think you could go wrong with either the Coastal or main routes. I did not do any swimming, but there were others that were. The beaches near Porto were pretty busy, and again up near Caminha. People were also swimming at the beach in Baiona. On other parts of the route the beaches were pretty empty. Obviously, take care where you swim. There may be a reason the beaches were empty.

One suggestion: When crossing the river at Caminha, either by ferry or by boat, turn left and walk along the river to the ocean. Follow the ocean north into A Guarda. It is a beautiful walk. I believe the yellow arrows would take you from the ferry dock on an inland route to A Guarda. Buen Camino!

Doogman thank you for your posts.My wife and I are hoping to walk the Portuguese way next year and this is the kind of general infomation I am looking for and the coastal way seems to have it. Can you tell me what kind of accommodation you used and was it readily available?
Cheers,
Joe

 

[Doogman]

Hi Joe: We did not have much flexibility in our travelling schedules, so we used Caminoways to make the arrangements, including pre-booking hotels. Most of the hotels were pretty decent, a couple were very nice - none were poor. We met a few other pilgrims in the hotels, but as I mentioned above, there were not a lot of people around until we got to Redondela, so I am not sure what the alternatives are.

 

[grayland]

I stayed in a mix of albergues and small hotels/pensions. Mostly albergues which are now well placed and available in most overnight locations.
The little guide I posted above (available in Porto and on Amazon) has a good listing of albergues.

 

[^^ountain ^^an]

I am staring the Camino Portugues next Monday (from Lisbon) and am wondering which is the better route to take from Porto - the coastal route or the inland route. Looking at John Brierley's guidebook, the coastal route has more walking on asphalt compared to the inland route.

Are there any recommendations/ opinions on one over the other? I love the ocean and that is why I was attracted to the coastal route. However, if the path is busy and noisy with cars, perhaps it is not such a pleasant experience? Any advice, suggestions would be much appreciate. Thank you.

Lisa

I just finished the Portuguese Way from Lisboa to Porto and the Portuguese Coastal Way from Porto to Santiago. The Coastal was awesome! If you take time to enjoy the many beautiful beaches. 27 days start to finish and several 4 hour beach visits.

I am starting the Northern Way ( Del Norte ) September 7th and upon completion on to Paris via the Paris Tours Way. ( sdrawkcab ) of course.

Beaches and FOOD on the Del Norte yum yum yum

Happy Trails

^^ountain ^^an
myATguide.com

 

[laineylainey]

Hi: When I did the main route, I started at the cathedral in Porto and followed the yellow arrows right through the city. On the coastal route I started in Matosinhos and headed up the coast. But if I was to do that again, I would start at the cathedral, walk along the river to the ocean, and then head up the coast from there.

As I mentioned above, we walked on the Coastal Way as far as Vigo before connecting with the main route at Redondela. I have never done it, but I understand that you can fairly easily turn off the coast at Viana do Castelo and connect to the main route at Rates, or turn off the coast at Caminha and connect to the main route at Valenca. Just from what I have read on this forum, it sounds like both of those "right turn routes" are well marked, but perhaps someone that has actually done those could comment. There are also other threads on this forum that discuss those routes. Good luck!

Doogman, I was really interested in what you said about leaving Porto for the Coastal route. I am leaving Porto to do it on Tuesday 5th and had thought about getting the metro to Matosinhos and walking from there, but you mentioned walking from the Cathedral and walking along the river. Is that route signposted or is it simple to follow?
Thanks

 

[Doogman]

Hi: I don't recall the route along the river being signposted, but it is pretty hard to go wrong. Just keep the river on your left until you reach the ocean. Turn right and then keep the ocean on your left. I believe it is something like 13-14 km from the cathedral to Matosinhos. There is a subway stop at Matosinhos, so you can actually return to Porto for the evening and then back to Matosinhos in the morning, if that is what you want to do. I have not actually walked it, but when I was in Porto a few years ago I took the trolley out to the ocean and strolled up the coast a bit. It looked like it would be a pretty nice walk. I saw someone on this Forum say it was one of their favourite days. (Note: You don't have to start at the Cathedral, you could start anywhere along the river, but I always think a Cathedral makes for a good departure point). Have a great journey!

 

[KasiaEf]

I am staring the Camino Portugues next Monday (from Lisbon) and am wondering which is the better route to take from Porto - the coastal route or the inland route. Looking at John Brierley's guidebook, the coastal route has more walking on asphalt compared to the inland route.

Are there any recommendations/ opinions on one over the other? I love the ocean and that is why I was attracted to the coastal route. However, if the path is busy and noisy with cars, perhaps it is not such a pleasant experience? Any advice, suggestions would be much appreciate. Thank you.

Lisa

Hi,

I strongly recommended Senda Litoral, that is on the coast. Camino Portuguese de la Costa is about 2 -5 km inland and you do not really get to see/ touch the ocean that much. I walked on the coast and it was fantastic!

Buen Camino

 

[grayland]

Hi,

I strongly recommended Senda Litoral, that is on the coast. Camino Portuguese de la Costa is about 2 -5 km inland and you do not really get to see/ touch the ocean that much. I walked on the coast and it was fantastic!

Buen Camino

I am not sure exactly what is meant here.

Most of us are talking about walking the route right next to the sea when we say the Coastal Route. Perhaps there are others who use different terms.

The route we describe starts in Matosinhos and stays on the coast until Vigo.
Ther are several interior routes...but we are staying next to the sea.

 

[grayland]

Doogman, I was really interested in what you said about leaving Porto for the Coastal route. I am leaving Porto to do it on Tuesday 5th and had thought about getting the metro to Matosinhos and walking from there, but you mentioned walking from the Cathedral and walking along the river. Is that route signposted or is it simple to follow?
Thanks

I actually was planning to walk along the river...but at the last minute decided to simply take the Metro and save a day to use strolling up the coast.
The metro drops you off at the bridge over the river in Matosinhos. You walk over and along the river to the beach and turn north.
Either way...you will enjoy this route.

 

[KasiaEf]

I am not sure exactly what is meant here.

Most of us are talking about walking the route right next to the sea when we say the Coastal Route. Perhaps there are others who use different terms.

The route we describe starts in Matosinhos and stays on the coast until Vigo.
Ther are several interior routes...but we are staying next to the sea.

Senda Litoral is a seashore path, following the beaches and running truly on the cost. Mostly not waymarked but you can't get lost as you always have the ocean on the left Camino da Costa is more inland. Both routs meet at main towns and cities. In the latest edition of John Brierly all of them are mentioned and Senda Litoral is even partially marked. At times the two routes become one.

 

[laineylainey]

Hi: I don't recall the route along the river being signposted, but it is pretty hard to go wrong. Just keep the river on your left until you reach the ocean. Turn right and then keep the ocean on your left. I believe it is something like 13-14 km from the cathedral to Matosinhos. There is a subway stop at Matosinhos, so you can actually return to Porto for the evening and then back to Matosinhos in the morning, if that is what you want to do. I have not actually walked it, but when I was in Porto a few years ago I took the trolley out to the ocean and strolled up the coast a bit. It looked like it would be a pretty nice walk. I saw someone on this Forum say it was one of their favourite days. (Note: You don't have to start at the Cathedral, you could start anywhere along the river, but I always think a Cathedral makes for a good departure point). Have a great journey!

Thanks so much for that. I am walking to Povoa de Varzim, so I will see how I feel about walking the extra km to Matosinhos on Wed morning! But it sounds lovely.

 

[laineylainey]

I actually was planning to walk along the river...but at the last minute decided to simply take the Metro and save a day to use strolling up the coast.
The metro drops you off at the bridge over the river in Matosinhos. You walk over and along the river to the beach and turn north.
Either way...you will enjoy this route.

thanks for that. Yes I think given the forecast is for a hot week next week that I might revert to plan A - metro to Matosinhos! But I will see what the day brings.

 

[grayland]

Senda Litoral is a seashore path, following the beaches and running truly on the cost. Mostly not waymarked but you can't get lost as you always have the ocean on the left Camino da Costa is more inland. Both routs meet at main towns and cities. In the latest edition of John Brierly all of them are mentioned and Senda Litoral is even partially marked. At times the two routes become one.

I walked this route last July. It was very well marked. The first few days are usually on boardwalks right along the beach.

I think any confusion is made by Brierley's book which falls very short in Portugal
He confuses the routes and sometimes mixes them together.
Last years Brierley guide had the route he called "Coastal" only going a stage or two on the coast and then turning inland.

We are not referring to that. In this thread we are calling the Coastal Route the well marked route right next to the sea for the most part. It stays there until Vigo.
But...we are not talking about walking in the sand or wild un marked paths.

Brierley caused a lot of confusion and it is now some times difficult to know which route is being described.

 

[david g]

I'm going to take a bit of a contrary position to what others have said. I walked from Porto to Santiago in May, beginning on the coastal route, and was disappointed. I knew to expect less pilgrims than on the Frances, but I didn't anticipate having days of seeing no one. And I didn't find it to be well marked in some areas. There was an area after leaving Viana de Costelo where the trail split three ways. No marker. One dropped you onto the beach. The next took me through the woods to......another three way split, again unmarked. It is true that you can't get lost if you keep the ocean to your left, but it can also take you well out of your way sometimes. I cut across from Caminha to Valenca and was happy to see plenty of other pilgrims and much better markings on the route from there on to Santiago. At least if you begin the coastal route but don't find it to your liking you can always go inland.

 

[La Rubia]

Is there a guidebook you would recommend rather that Brierley? I'm not planning to do the Portuguese for a couple of years, but since a girl can dream, I'm already reading up on it. Definitely planning the Coastal, fwiw.

 

[laineylainey]

I walked this route last July. It was very well marked. The first few days are usually on boardwalks right along the beach.

I think any confusion is made by Brierley's book which falls very short in Portugal
He confuses the routes and sometimes mixes them together.
Last years Brierley guide had the route he called "Coastal" only going a stage or two on the coast and then turning inland.

We are not referring to that. In this thread we are calling the Coastal Route the well marked route right next to the sea for the most part. It stays there until Vigo.
But...we are not talking about walking in the sand or wild un marked paths.

Brierley caused a lot of confusion and it is now some times difficult to know which route is being described.

Thanks so much for that information. I am now really looking forward to those boardwalks. I must admit when I got the JB book I was a bit disappointed as the main focus is on the internal route. However since posting my question a couple of weeks ago on this forum I now have;
. a lot of reassurance
. much more information about the route
. a lot of gratitude
. a renewed sense of adventure
So thanks forum, I now can't wait - Portuguese Coastal Camino, here I come!

 

[david g]

I should add too that one mans boring is another mans heaven. I met a German in Santiago who had just walked the Portugese route and asked what he thought of it. "Wonderful" he said. "So nice and quiet, with very few pilgrims". So, only you can determine if it's the route for you.

 

[laineylainey]

Is there a guidebook you would recommend rather that Brierley? I'm not planning to do the Portuguese for a couple of years, but since a girl can dream, I'm already reading up on it. Definitely planning the Coastal, fwiw.

Though I haven't been yet (tomorrow!) I have bought a little book that I found through the Forum - The Portuguese Way to Santiago - My Way. It gives notes and outline maps on the 3 Portuguese routes. I bought it through "Book Depository" and it does cover the coastal route.

 

[grayland]

Though I haven't been yet (tomorrow!) I have bought a little book that I found through the Forum - The Portuguese Way to Santiago - My Way. It gives notes and outline maps on the 3 Portuguese routes. I bought it through "Book Depository" and it does cover the coastal route.

I think this is the little guide you have. It is the one we used and found it to be just what we needed. Not a lot of extra stuff...just the basics.


Did you buy your copy in Porto? If so maybe you can post where you got it. Lots of people have asked me and I was not the one who actually had the guide.

 

[SYates]

I bought that guide this spring in an ordinary bookshop in Porto - just in case that Camino calls me ;-) Bon Camiño, SY

 

[Eims]

I am leaving Porto to do it on Tuesday 5th

Best of luck Laineylainey, hope you are all set and have a safe flight ove. I will be a week behind you so if our paths don't cross, I hope you have a ball and enjoy it!
Take care and Bom camino!

 

[laineylainey]

Best of luck Laineylainey, hope you are all set and have a safe flight ove. I will be a week behind you so if our paths don't cross, I hope you have a ball and enjoy it!
Take care and Bom camino!

Bless your heart!

 

[laineylainey]

I think this is the little guide you have. It is the one we used and found it to be just what we needed. Not a lot of extra stuff...just the basics.
View attachment 28852

Did you buy your copy in Porto? If so maybe you can post where you got it. Lots of people have asked me and I was not the one who actually had the guide.

Best of luck Laineylainey, hope you are all set and have a safe flight ove. I will be a week behind you so if our paths don't cross, I hope you have a ball and enjoy it!
Take care and Bom camino!

And you my friend

 

[laineylainey]

I think this is the little guide you have. It is the one we used and found it to be just what we needed. Not a lot of extra stuff...just the basics.
View attachment 28852

Did you buy your copy in Porto? If so maybe you can post where you got it. Lots of people have asked me and I was not the one who actually had the guide.

I bought mine through Amazon MarketPlace. The author is Sérgio Fonseca. When I come back I will offer to give it to someone else through the forum.

 

[Brety]

We just finished Lisbon to Santiago doing the coastal route from Porto.

We loved it and wouldn't change a thing. The best beaches in in Portugal, Galician fresh seafood and coastal views.

It was a good mix of solititude from Lisbon and relaxed enjoyable walking from Porto.

If you want a more social type experience then maybe do the interior, but we met a great bunch of people. With a lot of time to get to know the people we met.

After the inland slog in the heat from Lisbon wee were just ready for some fresh salty air,

Either way will be amazing I'm sure though!

 

[KariC]

I want to thank everyone for their comments on this thread - I leave in 10 days - ruta portuguesa costal/litoral until I decide to turn inland, and this has been one of the most valuable threads I've read!!

 

[laineylainey]

We just finished Lisbon to Santiago doing the coastal route from Porto.

We loved it and wouldn't change a thing. The best beaches in in Portugal, Galician fresh seafood and coastal views.

It was a good mix of solititude from Lisbon and relaxed enjoyable walking from Porto.

If you want a more social type experience then maybe do the interior, but we met a great bunch of people. With a lot of time to get to know the people we met.

After the inland slog in the heat from Lisbon wee were just ready for some fresh salty air,

Either way will be amazing I'm sure though!

Just the right message to read as I set off for Dublin airport.
Thanks Brety.

 

[stevenjarvis]

I just want to say a word in praise of the Camino de O'Porrino 'Industrial Estate including the amazing Field of Citroens before getting to O ' Porrino . It is a weird , harsh , dead straight road with industrial and commercial premises either side but for me it has it's own peculiar charm, juxtaposed to the medieval charms of Tui before and parts of O'Porrino , Redondela, Padron etc ahead.. Having said which, next time I will do this route first , then return by bus to take the alternative green route back into O'Porrino . @laineylainey, whatever you do, Enjoy , Buen Camino,

 

[LisaM]

Thank you all for the wonderful discussion. i start in Lisbon tomorrow and hope to follow the path by the beaches when I get there and not get confused by Brierley! Bom Camino to all of you.