Did Anyone Find Amazing Places to Stay off the Guidebook Paths?

[Dan the Man]

Hi All:

I am wondering if anyone who has walked the Camino Frances found GREAT and unique places to stay that were not necessarily at the Brierly's ending spot for the day?

What about places within a shorter distance or even longer? Any places a Km or two off the path?

I will be a single traveller and I want to see and experience those uniqely wonderful places to hang my hat and poles for the night...within reason ($).

Thank You All
Dan

 

[dougfitz]

Brierley's structure for his guidebook is a convenience to lay out a pattern that takes 33 days to complete. Don't ever feel that your own pilgrimage has to conform to the same pattern.

I found I regularly stayed at places that were not Brierley's daily endpoints. This included places like Zubiri, San Bol, Granon, Epinosa and Ribadiso. All with their own charm. San Bol was the furthest off the path, but others will, I expect, have ventured further.

 

[C clearly]

I'm not sure about your focus on "off-Brierley-end-points." Brierley and other guidebooks include alternate routes and many places to stay in-between the endpoints of the stages. As @dougfitz points out, those stages are just convenient distances to fit on a 1-page map, that are also a plausible distance for a day. When I read something that strikes my fancy, I mark it on the appropriate map so I can make a decision when I am in the vicinity. However, be careful about expectations - the "amazing" experiences usually have to fall into place of their own accord!

There is a thread "What is the one Albergue that you would say not to miss?" that should give you a lot of ideas. Or you could search "casa rural" for recommendations on more upscale bed-and-breakfast places. I understand that in some cases, if they are a bit off the path they will pick you up on the camino and deliver you back the next morning.

Departure day is coming up very soon for you! Have you posted your blog address?

 

[Tincatinker]

Hi Dan. The short answer is yes. I always consciously avoid Brierley's stages and have stayed in a variety of delightful places in consequence. I have also never felt any stress over finding a bed. There are several threads on "recommended" and "favourite" Albergues on the Forum. I won't make recommendations for two reasons - things change, (hospitaleros, ownership) meaning that the place I enjoyed in 2012 is now a dump and the place I hated is now a palace; and I have no intention of taking away your opportunity for discovery that the end of the day should offer.

Buen Camino

 

[BethC]

Brierley's structure for his guidebook is a convenience to lay out a pattern that takes 33 days to complete. Don't ever feel that your own pilgrimage has to conform to the same pattern.

I found I regularly stayed at places that were not Brierley's daily endpoints. This included places like Zubiri, San Bol, Granon, Epinosa and Ribadiso. All with their own charm. San Bol was the furthest off the path, but others will, I expect, have ventured further.

Doug, did you find anyplace you especially liked in Zubiri? For some reason (maybe because the place is said to be industrial), of all the days on the trip I feel some attitude about staying there. I read that the alberge was better to pass on and the other choices are slim pickins, it seems. I'd really wanted to stay at Trinidad de Arre, but it's much too far for the night after Roncesvalles and I can't seem to make it work out.

 

[dougfitz]

@BethC, I was the first into the overflow at the municipal albergue. That in itself was not charming, but there was a certain camaraderie that came from that, and many valuable camino 'lessons' about my expectations for myself.

Zubiri itself was a long strip of a place on a major road, but so are many of the other places leading into Pamplona. For me it was more about having walked enough for the day than anything else.

 

[annakappa]

There are 3 alternatives to stay in Zubiri, one is the muni, plus 2 private albergues. There is at least one pension too.

 

[naplesdon]

Doug, did you find anyplace you especially liked in Zubiri? For some reason (maybe because the place is said to be industrial), of all the days on the trip I feel some attitude about staying there. I read that the alberge was better to pass on and the other choices are slim pickins, it seems. I'd really wanted to stay at Trinidad de Arre, but it's much too far for the night after Roncesvalles and I can't seem to make it work out.

I hope you hear some other good comments about Avellano. Truly Zubriri is not industrial strength, and far from it after your walk down the mountain from Roncevalles, it is a great place to stay unless your legs are ready for a short walk up to Zabalidika where there is a great refugio with a communal meal.

 

[C clearly]

did you find anyplace you especially liked in Zubiri?

I have seen some recommendations for El Palo Avellano in Zubiri. I haven't stayed there but might try it in October this year.

 

[naplesdon]

I have seen some recommendations for El Palo Avellano in Zubiri. I haven't stayed there but might try it in October this year.

Good food, good Camino camaraderie and a big fireplace, just right for October in the Pyrenees.

 

[mspath]

I agree Claire and Don. El Palo Avellano is a fine private albergue with good food. They offer both bunks and beds in their dorms as well as rooms with private facilities. It is centrally located next to the church . Hope to stay there once again in October!

 

[whariwharangi]

Hi All:

I am wondering if anyone who has walked the Camino Frances found GREAT and unique places to stay that were not necessarily at the Brierly's ending spot for the day?

What about places within a shorter distance or even longer? Any places a Km or two off the path?

I will be a single traveller and I want to see and experience those uniqely wonderful places to hang my hat and poles for the night...within reason ($).

Thank You All
Dan

I walked as far as I wanted and stayed there. Brierley was invaluable in identifying where all the albergues are located. The stages are merely his way of organizing the material and make sense only for people with time constraints.

Places a km or two off the path? Are you kidding? No business model would suggest that idea.

 

[Dan the Man]

I'm not sure about your focus on "off-Brierley-end-points." Brierley and other guidebooks include alternate routes and many places to stay in-between the endpoints of the stages. As @dougfitz points out, those stages are just convenient distances to fit on a 1-page map, that are also a plausible distance for a day. When I read something that strikes my fancy, I mark it on the appropriate map so I can make a decision when I am in the vicinity. However, be careful about expectations - the "amazing" experiences usually have to fall into place of their own accord!

There is a thread "What is the one Albergue that you would say not to miss?" that should give you a lot of ideas. Or you could search "casa rural" for recommendations on more upscale bed-and-breakfast places. I understand that in some cases, if they are a bit off the path they will pick you up on the camino and deliver you back the next morning.

Departure day is coming up very soon for you! Have you posted your blog address?

My blog address is www. Hikingdan.com

I have done entries about planning and training etc. it has been a great motivator. My plan is to try and blog daily so my family can know how I am. In the end it will be a great diary.

Where do I post it here ?

 

[BethC]

I have seen some recommendations for El Palo Avellano in Zubiri. I haven't stayed there but might try it in October this year.

I'll try to book it. THANKS!!

 

[BethC]

I hope you hear some other good comments about Avellano. Truly Zubriri is not industrial strength, and far from it after your walk down the mountain from Roncevalles, it is a great place to stay unless your legs are ready for a short walk up to Zabalidika where there is a great refugio with a communal meal.

Oh this is plenty of recommendation - I'm sold. And thanks for mentioning the refugio at Zabaldika - you mentioned "walk UP to Zabaldika" which was almost enough to help Zubiri sound much better, but the refugio in Zabaldika sounds good too and if the legs are willing, that will be a very good Plan B.

 

[C clearly]

Where do I post it here ?

Here is a thread where you can list your blog. It is one of the few threads I "follow."

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Zabaldika, Zabaldika, Zabaldika.
7.8 miles before Pamplona. Albergue run by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart.
Mass, communal meal, and lovely sharing time after dinner in the chapel.

 

[Robo]

Places a km or two off the path? Are you kidding? No business model would suggest that idea.

Excuse me being a bit thick Maybe I need my morning coffee?

But I totally missed the meaning / point of that remark. I don't like to 'miss out'.

 

[billmatt]

Zabaldika was one of the very most memorable and enjoyable stops on my Camino last fall. If you are anywhere near I highly recommend it. A beautiful mass, a lovely tower to climb (and ask if you can ring the bell up there) a communal meal, outstanding facilities, and it's donativo!

 

[whariwharangi]

Excuse me being a bit thick Maybe I need my morning coffee?

But I totally missed the meaning / point of that remark. I don't like to 'miss out'.

My bad. If you want to open an albergue then it would be best to have a building located next to the camino or close (100 meters) to the camino. Else you are trying to attract tired pilgrims two or three kilometers out of their way at the end of a long hot day while there is another albergue nearer the camino and any services the village might offer.

There are a couple of divergent paths on the camino ... each has its share of albergues to chose from ... but this is the exception and not the rule. Your decision is going to be based on how far you have come that day and how much time you have left to complete the camino.

Albergues are basic structures with beds, sanitary facilities and rudimentary eating and cooking facilities. There usually isn't much to chose from one or the other. Its a place to sleep and get ready for the next stage.

 

[Robo]

My bad. If you want to open an albergue then it would be best to have a building located next to the camino or close (100 meters) to the camino. Else you are trying to attract tired pilgrims two or three kilometers out of their way at the end of a long hot day while there is another albergue nearer the camino and any services the village might offer.

There are a couple of divergent paths on the camino ... each has its share of albergues to chose from ... but this is the exception and not the rule. Your decision is going to be based on how far you have come that day and how much time you have left to complete the camino.

OK got it!

There seem to be lots of them though, that are well off the path.......

A couple of times I stayed 'well off' the path, and the owners picked me up.

I felt sorry for them once there, as they didn't seem to be getting much business ......... And sometimes I was the only person staying there! Which was a bit lonely....

 

[NualaOC]

We had a nice quiet night in Casa Milia, near Castaneda/Arzua. It is about 400m off the Camino and is run by a lovely young couple. It's a gorgeous old building and our room looked out on the gardens. Good food too.

Also - a Spanish friend recommended Casa Brandariz in the same area. It was a bit too far off the Camino for our liking, but it's apparently very nice, if you want a luxury option. The owners will pick you and up and drive you back to the Camino the next morning

 

[naplesdon]

Oh this is plenty of recommendation - I'm sold. And thanks for mentioning the refugio at Zabaldika - you mentioned "walk UP to Zabaldika" which was almost enough to help Zubiri sound much better, but the refugio in Zabaldika sounds good too and if the legs are willing, that will be a very good Plan B.

There are two paths up to the refugio, one which seems logical because it is marked but then turns out to be a steep, somewhat rocky climb straight up the hill, the other one is paved road with several switch backs for vehicles, you will find it a little bit west of the path.

 

[naplesdon]

Well off the Camino is a fabulous place to stay the last night before arriving in Santiago. It is Muina de Pena in O Pina. They will pick you up at the tourist office in O Pedrouzo, it is more than 5km off the route and would be hard to find on foot. The chef is world class (as of 2014) and the rooms are lovely with private baths. After breakfast they will transport you back to the tourist office leaving you just 20 km to walk to the Cathedral.

 

[wayfarer]

The two places that spring to mind are O Acivro, a Casa Rural near A Rua, http://www.oacivro.com/INGLES/html/facilities.htm
and Casa de Amancio near Lavacolla, http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/cas...dcid=4;dist=0&sb_price_type=total&type=total&
Really good food in both places and friendly staff.

 

[Swinslow]

Hi All:

I am wondering if anyone who has walked the Camino Frances found GREAT and unique places to stay that were not necessarily at the Brierly's ending spot for the day?

What about places within a shorter distance or even longer? Any places a Km or two off the path?

I will be a single traveller and I want to see and experience those uniqely wonderful places to hang my hat and poles for the night...within reason ($).

Thank You All
Dan

Well off the Camino is a fabulous place to stay the last night before arriving in Santiago. It is Muina de Pena in O Pina. They will pick you up at the tourist office in O Pedrouzo, it is more than 5km off the route and would be hard to find on foot. The chef is world class (as of 2014) and the rooms are lovely with private baths. After breakfast they will transport you back to the tourist office leaving you just 20 km to walk to the Cathedral.

Well off the Camino is a fabulous place to stay the last night before arriving in Santiago. It is Muina de Pena in O Pina. They will pick you up at the tourist office in O Pedrouzo, it is more than 5km off the route and would be hard to find on foot. The chef is world class (as of 2014) and the rooms are lovely with private baths. After breakfast they will transport you back to the tourist office leaving you just 20 km to walk to the Cathedral.

Well off the Camino is a fabulous place to stay the last night before arriving in Santiago. It is Muina de Pena in O Pina. They will pick you up at the tourist office in O Pedrouzo, it is more than 5km off the route and would be hard to find on foot. The chef is world class (as of 2014) and the rooms are lovely with private baths. After breakfast they will transport you back to the tourist office leaving you just 20 km to walk to the Cathedral.

We stayed here as well. It was a beautiful respite, albeit quite pricey. The tourist office (which is on the camino path as you enter the village) Will call and coordinate your pick up point. We walked to Amenal which is where they picked is up and returned us the following morning.

 

[Swinslow]

Hi All:

I am wondering if anyone who has walked the Camino Frances found GREAT and unique places to stay that were not necessarily at the Brierly's ending spot for the day?

What about places within a shorter distance or even longer? Any places a Km or two off the path?

I will be a single traveller and I want to see and experience those uniqely wonderful places to hang my hat and poles for the night...within reason ($).

Thank You All
Dan

One of my favorite places to stay was ay the italian confraternity 12 bed monastery/abbey 2/3 kms before itero de vega. It was called "puente fitero" (bridge over fitero)). A most excellent night in candlelight and friendship. It's a donativo.
They close between 1-3pm for their pausa, so either wait for their return, or walk into town for food and bev. Bring something back to share for dinner.
La mochila in town had good sandwiches and the bar on the corner would sell a bottle of vino to go.
Puente fitero....very special.
And...I highly recommend orisson for your first night. You will meet 50+ happy people whom you will see along the next 35 days.

 

[naplesdon]

One of my favorite places to stay was ay the italian confraternity 12 bed monastery/abbey 2/3 kms before itero de vega. It was called "puente fitero" (bridge over fitero)). A most excellent night in candlelight and friendship. It's a donativo.
They close between 1-3pm for their pausa, so either wait for their return, or walk into town for food and bev. Bring something back to share for dinner.
La mochila in town had good sandwiches and the bar on the corner would sell a bottle of vino to go.
Puente fitero....very special.
And...I highly recommend orisson for your first night. You will meet 50+ happy people whom you will see along the next 35 days.

You are talking about San Nicolas. Beware that because an evening mass is part of the nightly activities some times the priest requires that you be Catholic to stay there.

 

[Richo]

There are 3 alternatives to stay in Zubiri, one is the muni, plus 2 private albergues. There is at least one pension too.

I stayed in the pension which is just after el puente de la rabia, on the left. It was very good (the owner was a bit cranky though )

 

[BethC]

You are talking about San Nicolas. Beware that because an evening mass is part of the nightly activities some times the priest requires that you be Catholic to stay there.

Thanks for the heads-up! It was on my preferred list.

 

[annakappa]

You are talking about San Nicolas. Beware that because an evening mass is part of the nightly activities some times the priest requires that you be Catholic to stay there.

I think you are wrong Biarritzdon! ( no offense)! As far as I know, there is no evening Mass at S. Nicolas ( it's not even a consecrated church). What the hospitaleros DO offer us a 'feet washing ceremony' following Christ's example on the evening of the Last Supper. I have stayed there and was not asked if I am Catholic, ( which I am), or not.
We did enjoy a fascinating, bumpy ride on the back of a tractor to visit a wine cellar, offered by a friendly local!!
I think it would be very un-ecumenical to differentiate between Catholics and 'others' !!

 

[naplesdon]

I think you are wrong Biarritzdon! ( no offense)! As far as I know, there is no evening Mass at S. Nicolas ( it's not even a consecrated church). What the hospitaleros DO offer us a 'feet washing ceremony' following Crist's example on the evening of the Last Supper. I have stayed there and was not asked if I am Catholic, which I am, or not.
We did enjoy a fascinating, bumpy ride on the back of a tractor to visit a wine cellar, offered by a friendly local!!
I think it would be very un-ecumenical to differentiate between Catholics and 'others' !!

Wrong or right here is what I have heard from various sources and I admit I have never stayed at San Nicolas so I have no personal experience. It opens at 2 or 3 pm and unless one is walking say from San Bol with provisions, it is a difficult stop to make plans for because there are no stops between Castrojeriz and Itero de Vega for refreshments or food.
Yes, there is a communal meal.
Yes, it has no electricity.
Yes, there is a feet washing ceremony before dinner.
Yes, it is not a church, it is shrine operated by an Italian confraternity who changes "the guard" regularly like any refugio, but there are several priests from time to time who want to ask you about your reasons for the Camino in a short interview about your faith and will ask you if you are Catholic and these certain priests do masses.
I'm sure the spirit and comradarie are over the top there every night.
I'm walking from Burgos in 2 weeks and it is on my list.

 

[dcorrea951]

We stayed in a spectacular old stone schoolhouse named Albergue de Ligonde. Wonderful, highly recommend it !