Dear fellow pilgrims,
Now that I am back from my Camino Primitivo, I thought I'd answer my own question and post some thoughts on the albergues we visited along the way, in case this info comes in handy for somebody else. My partner and I stayed in these albergues in October 2018.
OVIEDO: we stayed one night in
Hostal Alvarez and one night in
Albergue La Peregrina. Hostal Alvarez was ok, simple but clean and def a more"luxury" feel compared to piligrims' albergues. My tip here is to request a room away from the main road when you book. The hostal overlooks a very busy road and we had a hard time falling asleep even after 11 pm. Good value for money and friendly hospitalero, though.
Albergue La Peregrina was great for its location. It felt like it had pretty new beds, with nice partitions that give you a little privacy. Not sure I would stay there again since the hospitalera was a bit odd, clattering across the dorm in her heels to empty trash bins at 10 pm... Intially, we wanted to go to the municipal there. Later on, we were told by a few pilgrims that it was a pretty haunting experience for them since it's a former prison/mental hospital (I don't remember which one). So... no favourites for me in Oviedo.
GRADO: we loved the municipal there, the
Albergue de Peregrinos de Grado. Friendly hospitaleros, well equipped kitchen, medium-sized dorm, hot showers and bathrooms although with poor ventilation.
CORNELLANA: well, this is one of its kind. We went there upon the recommendation of a fellow pilgrim. Also, I like monasteries, so I stay there whenever I can. The building has character, dorms are beautiful and clean, there is a nice historical feel to the place, the kitchen is big and very well equipped... the only catch is that the monastery is actually derelict and abandoned. Not even the hospitalero sleeps there. It just happened that that night my partner and I were the only two pilgrims to check in. Initially we thought that was great news: a little peace at last! No snoring
As time passed, our mood changed from excited to uneasy... to uncomfortable... to get me out of here! We were woken up by unusual noises during the night coming from upstairs, where the monks used to live. Several times. The next day, I shared my experience with the hospitalera at the next albergue where we stopped, and she told me this is not the first time she's heard of unusual things happening in Cornellana. She told me a few stories that sent chills to my spine. Bottom line: if you are a solo pilgrim, please consider staying somewhere else, unless you are seeking a paranormal experience (which, by the way, is not guaranteed. Many people stayed in Cornellana and felt/heard nothing, so I was told). If you are with friends, know that you may have a peaceful night or an unusual night, and make your choice. The albergue itself is very well kept, with a beutiful courtyard where you can chill and dry your clothes.
*BODENAYA: we stayed at
the donativo run by David and Cecilia. We had a lovely communal dinner. The sleeping arrangements feel a little crowded (and damp, at least in our room), but the overall experience is unforgettable and so meaningful. The generosity of David and Cecilia is so tangible it’s moving.
CAMPIELLO: we stayed at
Albergue Casa Ricardo and enjoyed it. Plenty of room, modern beds, great shower, very nice kitchen, nice garden to chill.
BERDUCEDO: we stayed at
Albergue Camino Primitivo. This was by chance because the other places very full, but having looked inside the other albergues, and talked to other pilgrims who stayed elsewhere, we realised that luck had picked well for us.
*CASTRO: together with Bodenaya, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo route. Beautiful farm house in the middle of nowhere (must be great in summer since it has a huge garden with chairs and tables). Healthy food, small, cosy rooms with 4-6 beds, welcoming hospitaleras. If on offer, try their superb home-made walnut cake.
A FONSAGRADA: we stayed at the municipal. Big, modern facilities, nothing wrong with it.
O CADAVO: we stayed at the
Albergue de Xunta. Nice bathrooms, small kitchen with very few utensils/pots/plats. There was damp and mold on the ceiling and walls. I would not stay there again.
*FERREIRA: together with Castro and Bodenaya, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo. We stayed at
Ponte Ferreira. Great communal meal, nice vegetarian food, garden, wooden beds in an old stone house. Would go again!
MELIDE: we stayed in the
municipal. Very crowded. Huge dorms. Kitchen has no utensils/cookware. Affordable to offset expenses, however last year we stayed at the nearby
Albergue San Anton. Would recommend the latter!
*SANTA IRENE: together with Castro, Bodenaya and Ferreira, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo. We stayed at
Albergue Astrar. A small detour from the Camino, in the middle of nowhere. Nice stove, friendly hospitalero, cosy room with 6-8 beds, nice bathroom. Would go again!
SANTIAGO: we stayed in different places, none of them was great but good enough. Last year we rented a room in a shared apartment for 2 days (unfortunately I don’t remember the lady’s name nor have her contact). Good enough option for privacy. We also stayed at
Mundolalbergue. Great location very close to the cathedral, nice kitchen and garden. But noisy and crowded dorm. We also stayed at
Albergue Alda, next to Hotel Alda. Old wooden building with steep stairs and small and damp bathrooms, but good kitchen and great location.
Wherever you stay, enjoy and make the best of it!
I hope to be back on my next Camino soon... till then, Buen Camino to you!