LIVE from the Camino Feels Unpleasantly Busy on the Camino Frances (May Day, 2024)

[Stephan the Painter]

I’m on the Camino Frances since April 4. I just finished the Meseta and it feels unpleasantly busy and has since the beginning. No time time to smell the roses or draw much.

There is a sense from most people that it’s extremely busy and you have to book. I’ve often had to contact several places for a bed. I am going off-stage, but the Albergues are almost always full.

I find myself eyeing fellow pilgrims with distaste as they pass me, because they are putting me that much closer to a nighttime taxi ride!

Some people have told me the municipals are not full because so many people are booking, but it feels risky.

Also it has been unseasonably cold.

The social aspect is great still. But It’s stressful, and I’m counting the days until it’s over.

Its much busier then it was in April-May 2022 when I did the Frances previously.

If someone has a link to current statistics, that would be great.

P.S. Also I was planning to do the most traditional Camino Frances through Sarria, but would appreciate some thoughts on the alternate routes. For instance, how many days it would add, etc.
(I am leaving Astorga today).

 

[truenorthpilgrm]

I think you nailed what I was feeling on my camino exactly a year ago; unpleasantly busy.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Stephan, I miss seeing your sketches, but totally understand. I am on the Sanabres now and with cold, wettish weather the past two days, I find I am not wanting to explore much, or check the doors of the tiny churches like I usually do to see if they may be open.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Stephan, I miss seeing your sketches, but totally understand. I am on the Sanabres now and with cold, wettish weather the past two days, I find I am not wanting to explore much, or check the doors of the tiny churches like I usually do to see if they may be open.

I am doing some, and eventually will post everything good here. I have put some things on Instagram and facebook, if you do that. My pages are all public, feel free to friend or follow.

 

[Dani7]

How about trying the Invierno. Would add a couple of days approx. I’ve been following some threads on the forum of pilgrims walking now. Wise Pilgrim has an app for this camino. I’m sure other members here will add to this suggestion. You start the Invierno in Ponderrada. Buen camino. Hope the last stages of your camino are safe and enjoyable.

 

[Robo]

How about trying the Invierno. Would add a couple of days approx. I’ve been following some threads on the forum of pilgrims walking now. Wise Pilgrim has an app for this camino. I’m sure other members here will add to this suggestion. You start the Invierno in Ponderrada. Buen camino. Hope the last stages of your camino are safe and enjoyable.

I was about to suggest it too!
Walk it now before it gets too popular

 

[timr]

How about trying the Invierno. Would add a couple of days approx. I’ve been following some threads on the forum of pilgrims walking now. Wise Pilgrim has an app for this camino. I’m sure other members here will add to this suggestion. You start the Invierno in Ponderrada. Buen camino. Hope the last stages of your camino are safe and enjoyable.

I did invierno in Nov 2019 just before Covid. I have never been so wet, continuously! That is beyond control.

But….I’d do it again.

I met no one. And infrastructure was perfectly adequate.

 

[roving_rufus]

Or try the Via Kunig from Las Herrerias to Lugo then camino Verde and onto the Camino Norte. (From Astorga the Camino Manzanal would be extremely quiet!)

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Thanks all! I’ll be reading up on the Invierno the next few days.

 

[Vacajoe]

2022 was still bouncing back from Covid. This year is busy, but the current state has more to do with the May 1st holiday celebrated throughout most of Europe fell on a Wednesday this year, meaning a lot of people took the entire week off and went on Camino. I’d imagine the numbers get back to “normal” (which is still a lot) next week.

 

[KeyserSoza]

We are on the CF since 16th April. Our plan is to take a bus south for circa 30k from Sarria to Monteforte de Lemos and do the last 6 days on the Invierno and thereby avoid the busier Sarria to SCD section. Having said that I think the Sarria to SDC has a different but enjoyable vibe to the earlier stages. Lots of very enthused and energetic peregrinos who talk about other issued than knees & blisters.

 

[gregrobinson]

I’m on the Camino Frances since April 4. I just finished the Meseta and it feels unpleasantly busy and has since the beginning. No time time to smell the roses or draw much.

There is a sense from most people that it’s extremely busy and you have to book. I’ve often had to contact several places for a bed. I am going off-stage, but the Albergues are almost always full.

I find myself eyeing fellow pilgrims with distaste as they pass me, because they are putting me that much closer to a nighttime taxi ride!

Some people have told me the municipals are not full because so many people are booking, but it feels risky.

Also it has been unseasonably cold.

The social aspect is great still. But It’s stressful, and I’m counting the days until it’s over.

Its much busier then it was in April-May 2022 when I did the Frances previously.

If someone has a link to current statistics, that would be great.

P.S. Also I was planning to do the most traditional Camino Frances through Sarria, but would appreciate some thoughts on the alternate routes. For instance, how many days it would add, etc.
(I am leaving Astorga today).

As of today the Camino Frances is showing up 13% y/y. Looking only at the month of April and only at the crowds from SJPDP, there have been 1,852 that have arrived in Santiago vs 1,497 in April last year. Those are numbers for people who finished and arrived in Santiago during the month of April. Easter week was in April last year, but most of the Easter walkers are only doing the last 100km. Will have to watch it to see if the current increase in #'s is due to the early Easter this year or if people are trying to get ahead of last year's crowds or if this is simply the new normal. I decided to start at the end of May, so I can sleep outside if necessary. Gonna be a real pilgrimage this year. I did a video yesterday where I suggested that people will begin to walk other routes. The Portuguese is going to increase in popularity.

 

[Bradypus]

I did a video yesterday where I suggested that people will begin to walk other routes. The Portuguese is going to increase in popularity.

That has been happening for some time. In 2013 the Portugues and the Portugues Costa together only made up about 14% of the Compostela totals. By last year that had risen to 32%. Tui is now in second place to Sarria as the most popular starting point. The days when "the Camino" effectively meant "the Camino Frances" are long past.

 

[jungleboy]

Tui is now in second place to Sarria as the most popular starting point.

Porto is still a more popular starting point than Tui when combining central/coastal routes, as these are separated in the statistics you have cited. Of course, the point remains re: the growing popularity of the CP.

 

[Bradypus]

Porto is still a more popular starting point than Tui when combining central/coastal routes, as these are separated in the statistics you have cited. Of course, the point remains re: the growing popularity of the CP.

You are right of course. My mistake!

 

[KiwiJohn]

I think you nailed what I was feeling on my camino exactly a year ago; unpleasantly busy.

I would say that most people, including myself found their Camino rather awesome, busy or not!

 

[Anniesantiago]

I’m on the Camino Frances since April 4. I just finished the Meseta and it feels unpleasantly busy and has since the beginning. No time time to smell the roses or draw much.

There is a sense from most people that it’s extremely busy and you have to book. I’ve often had to contact several places for a bed. I am going off-stage, but the Albergues are almost always full.

I find myself eyeing fellow pilgrims with distaste as they pass me, because they are putting me that much closer to a nighttime taxi ride!

Some people have told me the municipals are not full because so many people are booking, but it feels risky.

Also it has been unseasonably cold.

The social aspect is great still. But It’s stressful, and I’m counting the days until it’s over.

Its much busier then it was in April-May 2022 when I did the Frances previously.

If someone has a link to current statistics, that would be great.

P.S. Also I was planning to do the most traditional Camino Frances through Sarria, but would appreciate some thoughts on the alternate routes. For instance, how many days it would add, etc.
(I am leaving Astorga today).

This was our experience on the Meseta. Luckily we had booked ahead.

 

[GailGwyn]

I was about to suggest it too!
Walk it now before it gets too popular

I agree. I walked the Invierno last Spring and saw a total of 5 pilgrims until we reached where it joins the Sanabres, and even then there were only and a dozen people in the albergue. A beautiful Camino. So glad I walked it before it becomes too popular.

 

[SandyBELL]

This was our experience on the Meseta. Luckily we had booked ahead.

Hi, I’m a day away from finishing the Camino Frances. Sarria section has been busy as expected but I got the feeling due to the incredible bad weather, people have heads down and no time for talking. Haven’t since being on my Camino trek had a moment to bond with others, or find that Camino Family. Which is a terrible shame. I come across lots of jostling, and folk plugged into iPhones!

 

[truenorthpilgrm]

I would say that most people, including myself found their Camino rather awesome, busy or not!

Good for you and thanks for sharing! There's room for everyone's experience (including the OP's, which I was simply agreeing with).

 

[DarrenSpot]

Started Camino Frances on April 17, taking it easy and just entering the Meseta. Finding it very difficult to get lodging. Everybody is talking about it, which actually seems to be making it worse…as then everybody books days in advance. Today an albergue recommended I call an accommodation 8km off the Camino route for a bed! We’re rolling the dice the next few days and hoping “the Camino will provide”. Fingers crossed!!

 

[Johnnnyk]

I had originally planned to the CF, as it’s my first Camino. I read the all the post about the first stages being horribly over booked, so starting on Wednesday I decided to change to Norte at the last minute since I flew into Biarritz. It’s been nice, I’m loving the food and the seaside towns, but it’s defiantly a little more isolated from what I’ve read about the Frances, which isn’t entirely a negative

my plan was to go to Pamplona starting tomorrow and switch back to the CF, but I’m still hearing reports that you have to book an advanced and things are pretty crowded. I’m just curious is this overcrowding due to weeklong holiday goers from Europe or will this maintain and should I just stick along the Norte? It’s not likely I’ll get another chance to come back

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Because I’m not there, on the ground, I can’t really answer the busy/ booking questions.

I guess the answer depends in part on why you are walking. Religious grounds or the destination? Doesn’t change. A personal challenge ? The Norte is harder, but roughly the same length. Or simply because, like many of us, you feel a pull ( some say desire, even called) to do so? The list goes on.

Both are beautiful, what is it about the Frances that makes you want to walk it?

 

[Johnnnyk]

Because I’m not there, on the ground, I can’t really answer the busy/ booking questions.

I guess the answer depends in part on why you are walking. Religious grounds or the destination? Doesn’t change. A personal challenge ? The Norte is harder, but roughly the same length. Or simply because, like many of us, you feel a pull ( some say desire, even called) to do so? The list goes on.

Both are beautiful, what is it about the Frances that makes you want to walk it?

I think I have just been swayed by many of the posts that say if it’s your first one or you’re only one then the Camino Francis is the most traditional Camino experience. I do like the idea of the more communal experience, but to be honest, the first three or four days in the north they have been some of the best traveling experiences of my life so maybe I should just stop optimizing LOL.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

they have been some of the best traveling experiences of my life so maybe I should just stop optimizing

It’s easy to overthink-
Buen Camino!

 

[Bradypus]

I think I have just been swayed by many of the posts that say if it’s your first one or you’re only one then the Camino Francis is the most traditional Camino experience.

There is a problem right there. What is "the most traditional Camino experience"? I have walked the Camino Frances in 1990, 2002, 2016 and 2023. Each of them a very different journey. I would say the most traditional experience was my first Camino: mostly solitary, sometimes going two or three days without seeing another pilgrim, often sleeping alone in tiny refugios and eating regular Spanish meals at Spanish hours in bars and restaurants. Occasionally invited to sit with local families or groups of friends. An experience which I can recapture in part now only on the quieter routes and out of season. But I suspect what is meant by "most traditional Camino experience" now is almost the opposite: large numbers of pilgrims, Camino families, communal meals in albergues and so on. I think it would be better not to get hung up on someone else's definitions and to decide on the type of experience you would prefer. More solitude or more company? What daily distances would suit you? What landscapes do you want to see? Any particular places of interest? Build a journey which suits you and your own preferences rather than buying into someone else's notion of "most traditional".

 

[Johnnnyk]

There is a problem right there. What is "the most traditional Camino experience"? I have walked the Camino Frances in 1990, 2002, 2016 and 2023. Each of them a very different journey. I would say the most traditional experience was my first Camino: mostly solitary, sometimes going two or three days without seeing another pilgrim, often sleeping alone in tiny refugios and eating regular Spanish meals at Spanish hours in bars and restaurants. Occasionally invited to sit with local families or groups of friends. An experience which I can recapture in part now only on the quieter routes and out of season. But I suspect what is meant by "most traditional Camino experience" now is almost the opposite: large numbers of pilgrims, Camino families, communal meals in albergues and so on. I think it would be better not to get hung up on someone else's definitions and to decide on the type of experience you would prefer. More solitude or more company? What daily distances would suit you? What landscapes do you want to see? Any particular places of interest? Build a journey which suits you and your own preferences rather than buying into someone else's notion of "most traditional".

Thank your for this. I think I like the idea of pushing myself physically and experience some of the local basque culture first and then secondly, I’d love to meet some folks and have some great communal experiences. But most importantly I don’t want to fell like I have to be booking stuff to advance, I like having the spontaneity to plan my routes

 

[TheRealPixie]

I am doing some, and eventually will post everything good here. I have put some things on Instagram and facebook, if you do that. My pages are all public, feel free to friend or follow.

Instagram account name please? I couldn't find "Stephan the painter" Lots of Stephens!

 

[jungleboy]

Instagram account name please? I couldn't find "Stephan the painter" Lots of Stephens!

@stephan_giannini_art

Login • Instagram

Welcome back to Instagram. Sign in to check out what your friends, family & interests have been capturing & sharing around the world.

www.instagram.com

 

[David Tallan]

I had originally planned to the CF, as it’s my first Camino. I read the all the post about the first stages being horribly over booked, so starting on Wednesday I decided to change to Norte at the last minute since I flew into Biarritz. It’s been nice, I’m loving the food and the seaside towns, but it’s defiantly a little more isolated from what I’ve read about the Frances, which isn’t entirely a negative

my plan was to go to Pamplona starting tomorrow and switch back to the CF, but I’m still hearing reports that you have to book an advanced and things are pretty crowded. I’m just curious is this overcrowding due to weeklong holiday goers from Europe or will this maintain and should I just stick along the Norte? It’s not likely I’ll get another chance to come back

Reports go both ways. This was also posted yesterday, from the middle of the meseta on the Frances:

I haven't booked ahead at all and have gotten a bed everytime I've walked into town. There is a lot of panic happening concerning beds though. Ive listened to people at the albergues and many are spending their time calling ahead. I think, in my case anyway, it's been unnecessary.

On the one hand, my advice would be not to be scared off the Frances. But it may be a bit late for that advice. I also tend to advise people not to hop on a bus and head somewhere else, mid-Camino, if they can avoid it. If the Norte is working for you, maybe stick with it.

You can always try the Frances another time.

 

[GregorMc]

I think I have just been swayed by many of the posts that say if it’s your first one or you’re only one then the Camino Francis is the most traditional Camino experience. I do like the idea of the more communal experience, but to be honest, the first three or four days in the north they have been some of the best traveling experiences of my life so maybe I should just stop optimizing LOL.

There’s a theory that the release of THE WAY started the rise in popularity of the CF, especially with Americans. If that theory is correct then the release of THE WAY 2 may have a similar effect on the Norte. In which case you will then be like all us pre-2011 CF walkers and able to claim you walked the Camino del Norte before Emilio Estévez and Martin Sheen spoiled it all!

 

[Bradypus]

There’s a theory that the release of THE WAY started the rise in popularity of the CF, especially with Americans.

The number of Americans walking the Frances (and to a lesser extent other routes) has certainly risen since the film came out. But the growth in popularity of the Frances has been pretty consistent way back to revival of the Camino in the 1980s. The influence of the film in the overall picture of the Caminos is easily exaggerated.

 

[vkimble]

We are on the CF since 16th April. Our plan is to take a bus south for circa 30k from Sarria to Monteforte de Lemos and do the last 6 days on the Invierno and thereby avoid the busier Sarria to SCD section. Having said that I think the Sarria to SDC has a different but enjoyable vibe to the earlier stages. Lots of very enthused and energetic peregrinos who talk about other issued than knees & blisters.

Can you provide some detail on the bus line/number for this option, please? I am going to CF and may take this option to avoid crowds.

 

[Mananath]

I had originally planned to the CF, as it’s my first Camino. I read the all the post about the first stages being horribly over booked, so starting on Wednesday I decided to change to Norte at the last minute since I flew into Biarritz. It’s been nice, I’m loving the food and the seaside towns, but it’s defiantly a little more isolated from what I’ve read about the Frances, which isn’t entirely a negative

my plan was to go to Pamplona starting tomorrow and switch back to the CF, but I’m still hearing reports that you have to book an advanced and things are pretty crowded. I’m just curious is this overcrowding due to weeklong holiday goers from Europe or will this maintain and should I just stick along the Norte? It’s not likely I’ll get another chance to come back

Having walked both, I still feel the Frances is a better experience. It was my first and it felt more pilgramey for me than the Norte did. I also found there were more milestones on the Frances to look forward to and keep me motivated when the walking got boring. There is also, of course, much more Camino history/lore associated with the Frances.

Not sure where you are on the Norte now but after you walk past Bilbao expect the pavement walking to Increase significantly.

Buen Camino!

 

[J Willhaus]

Can you provide some detail on the bus line/number for this option, please? I am going to CF and may take this option to avoid crowds.

Monbus is the company. Here is the schedules, bus numbers, and times for Sarria and M. de Lemos.

 

[trecile]

Can you provide some detail on the bus line/number for this option, please? I am going to CF and may take this option to avoid crowds.

Instead of waiting until Sarria You could switch to the Camino Invierno at Ponferrada.

Camino de Invierno | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino de Invierno es el trazado jacobeo que une Ponferrada con Santiago de Compostela pasando por el valle del río Sil y la Ribeira Sacra. Se trata de una gran variante meridional del Camino Francés que evita las cumbres del Cebreiro, y que por tanto resulta más asequible en invierno, como...

www.gronze.com

 

[gregrobinson]

I had originally planned to the CF, as it’s my first Camino. I read the all the post about the first stages being horribly over booked, so starting on Wednesday I decided to change to Norte at the last minute since I flew into Biarritz. It’s been nice, I’m loving the food and the seaside towns, but it’s defiantly a little more isolated from what I’ve read about the Frances, which isn’t entirely a negative

my plan was to go to Pamplona starting tomorrow and switch back to the CF, but I’m still hearing reports that you have to book an advanced and things are pretty crowded. I’m just curious is this overcrowding due to weeklong holiday goers from Europe or will this maintain and should I just stick along the Norte? It’s not likely I’ll get another chance to come back

It's probably not as bad as people are saying. A lot of the people who have trouble finding a bed are simply trying to use Booking.com to pre-book and most of the albergues don't list there. Once you reach Pamplona things break up a bit and there are a lot of places to stay between the regular stops. If you insist on staying in the traditional stage endings (Puente la Reina, Estella, Los Arcos, etc...) then it does fill up, but if you stay a short distance before or after these towns, it's not usually a problem. Try starting the day early so you can get to the municipal albergues early before they are full, as they don't usually take reservations and use the BuenCamino app to communicate with albergues to reserve a bed a day or two in advance. Many people pre-book this way, but sometimes don't show up for their reservation as they are not always prepaid. At around 2pm albergues will release these reservations and you can often get one of those if you ask.

 

[Bradypus]

At around 2pm albergues will release these reservations and you can often get one of those if you ask.

Sadly that is increasingly the case. If you have made a reservation and you expect to arrive later in the day then do confirm that arrival time with the albergue or you may find that someone else has already been given the bed you were expecting.

 

[JillGat]

I’m on the Camino Frances since April 4. I just finished the Meseta and it feels unpleasantly busy and has since the beginning. No time time to smell the roses or draw much.

There is a sense from most people that it’s extremely busy and you have to book. I’ve often had to contact several places for a bed. I am going off-stage, but the Albergues are almost always full.

I find myself eyeing fellow pilgrims with distaste as they pass me, because they are putting me that much closer to a nighttime taxi ride!

Some people have told me the municipals are not full because so many people are booking, but it feels risky.

Also it has been unseasonably cold.

The social aspect is great still. But It’s stressful, and I’m counting the days until it’s over.

Its much busier then it was in April-May 2022 when I did the Frances previously.

If someone has a link to current statistics, that would be great.

P.S. Also I was planning to do the most traditional Camino Frances through Sarria, but would appreciate some thoughts on the alternate routes. For instance, how many days it would add, etc.
(I am leaving Astorga today).

And you are one more person adding to the crowd, haha! The big packs of tour groups is what puts me off. I actually stop to smell the roses (often literally), draw and take pictures more, waiting for the bolus to pass. Meanwhile, my recent two weeks on Camino Sanabres, I saw not ONE other person on the trail the first ten days. A few marathon walkers who did La Plata up to there were in the albergues, but generally about 9 people in a 40 bed albergue.

 

[ecole]

I’m on the Camino Frances since April 4. I just finished the Meseta and it feels unpleasantly busy and has since the beginning. No time time to smell the roses or draw much.

There is a sense from most people that it’s extremely busy and you have to book. I’ve often had to contact several places for a bed. I am going off-stage, but the Albergues are almost always full.

I find myself eyeing fellow pilgrims with distaste as they pass me, because they are putting me that much closer to a nighttime taxi ride!

Some people have told me the municipals are not full because so many people are booking, but it feels risky.

Also it has been unseasonably cold.

The social aspect is great still. But It’s stressful, and I’m counting the days until it’s over.

Its much busier then it was in April-May 2022 when I did the Frances previously.

If someone has a link to current statistics, that would be great.

P.S. Also I was planning to do the most traditional Camino Frances through Sarria, but would appreciate some thoughts on the alternate routes. For instance, how many days it would add, etc.
(I am leaving Astorga today).

Very sorry to hear you are not enjoying it as much as before. The thing is, we often return to a place and expect it to be the same as before. This often isn't the case, as there are so many variables, such as busyness, time of year, weather, our own health, and much more. I started walking from Saint John a week after you and have loved it! Even though it's my first time, I am sure I would have enjoyed it the 2nd time round but probably it would be different.
I have personally not had any issues booking any rooms. Sure, if you don't book in advance, then the options of places to stay are limited, but I simply adapted. I stayed in municipality, booked Albergues a day or 2 in advance, or booked a private room from time to time. The weather was glorious on the first week, and it is this week. I had a week of crap weather and it.made me sick. But I'm not annoyed about it. All my issues are part of the journey! Things go wrong, we feel uncomfortable. This isn't meant to be luxury!! Yes there are many people and I am sure you notice a difference, but this is how it goes with travel. I knew this well before I arrived. Maybe you would prefer a different route next time? I am now in Sarria and yes it is busier, but it's just different and I have adapted. I get to meet so many people, and there are many times to find peace. It's a mindset thing. Turn around from time to time and stop. Forget about the people. We should not be affected by others. Breathe and take in where you are. We are still very lucky. Good luck with the test of your trip!

 

[KeyserSoza]

Can you provide some detail on the bus line/number for this option, please? I am going to CF and may take this option to avoid crowds.

I’m not sure yet. I

Can you provide some detail on the bus line/number for this option, please? I am going to CF and may take this option to avoid crowds.

Im not sure of the bus details. I just went into Romet

Can you provide some detail on the bus line/number for this option, please? I am going to CF and may take this option to avoid crowds.

I think I found that there are a number of busses on Rome to Rio. I could be wrong but I think they are Monbus.

 

[KeyserSoza]

Can you provide some detail on the bus line/number for this option, please? I am going to CF and may take this option to avoid crowds.

 

[PiesIrlandeses]

I joined the CF from the Primitivo at Melide last Tuesday. After the relative seclusion and camaraderie (not a contradiction) of the Primitivo, the masses came as a bit of a shock. I noticed earlier that the numbers on the Primitivo after Lugo had also increased, presumably because Lugo is 100km from Santiago.

Nevertheless, my couple of hours of lone nighttime hiking on Wednesday through the woods after Arzúa were just magical.