Back again, after a week of no computers, or arriving at libraries after they close, or being too tired to search. In Salamanca, our favourite city, having a day off, so will try to get up to date. Numbers still up on the Vdlp, albergues usually filled early, alernative accomodation necessary. Have found some wonderful Casa Rurals and Hostals, but of course, they all cost more dineros than albergues.
Galisteo. Some guides, say the problem of finding the route into Galisteo has been solved, but even with advice from others, thanks Alan, we still didn´t find THAT gate and wandered the fields, no arrow, no definite track, until coming out onto a track and refinding the arrow. I think about 90% lst their way, some worse than others.
Bar Restaurant Emigrantes was really welcoming and lots of pilgs we knew there. Great value at 20E for double room, inc breakfast. We stayed 2 nights for a rest day, and had a lovely restful time, sleeping mostly. The city walls, being restored, completely enclose the old city, and are pretty amazing, high and awesome. Did a great sunset climb up one of the towers and walked with the locals around the base.
17th May. ...to Carcobosa. Short day. 10km. Hotel Cuidad de Caparra, good value and price. 35E for double room, better than it´s 2 star rating, esp with big bath. Recommend. Carcobossa seemed a really friendly town with great vibes, everyone helpful. Iglesia de Santiago Matamoris, very nice little church.
18th May. Now trying to book ahead always because of the shortage of accom and numbers of pilgs.
Decided on the Hostal Asturias option. First half of todays walk is one of the prettiest sections, tho not at its best today with strong winds and showers. Lots of cows. Second half, heavy rain all the way.... boots absolutely drenched.... not fun.... no cover at all, unless we fancied getting into the occasional stock feeder which had sort of rooves!! We arrived at the Arco de Caparra at 1.40 to find the Information Centre closed at 2.00, but we were able to stay under cover there, change into dry clothes and wander the ruins for 2 hours until picked up and taken to Hostal Asturias, Jarilla, off the camino. Had a nice evening with the 4 other pilgs there, 2 from Finland, and Roman and Willi from Austria. Recommend the Hostal, tho dinner only vailable after 9pm and there´s nothing else nearby. Breakfast at 7 was good, and their blue arrowed trackback to the camino was easy to follow and delightfully rural. 33E for double room... pretty good value we thought.
Signing off now, hope to get really up to date tonight in this noisy but friendly Inter net cafe in Salamanca. Buen camino a todos, especially Sue, a few days ahead now, and Laurie, now on the Madrid, plus the great people with us on the Vdlp. Carole