Getting the Best out of Lyon - City Highlights and Recommendations?

[irishgurrrl]

I'll have Sat evening I arrive in Lyon plus 9am - 3pm the Sunday (before catching the train to Le Puy) to sightsee in Lyon (plus buy my French SIM card from Orange). Any recommendations or highlights you'd like to share?

 

[mspath]

I'll have Sat evening I arrive in Lyon plus 9am - 3pm the Sunday (before catching the train to Le Puy) to sightsee in Lyon (plus buy my French SIM card from Orange). Any recommendations or highlights you'd like to share?

Hi Irishgurrl,

Lyon, France, has an historic silk weaving tradition. I have always enjoyed wandering through the distinctive old neighborhoods associated with this by following the system of alleyways called traboules. See this Wikipedia site and its links for more traboule info and maps in English. For many more visiting possibilities in Lyon here is the English edition of the official tourist board site . Do you have a place to stay? See this earlier Forum thread about cheap lodging near the Le Puy train.

Bon voyage and Buen camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[irishgurrrl]

Hi Irishgurrl,

Lyon, France, has an historic silk weaving tradition. I have always enjoyed wandering through the distinctive old neighborhoods associated with this by following the system of alleyways called traboules. See this Wikipedia site and its links for more traboule info and maps in English. For many more visiting possibilities in Lyon here is the English edition of the official tourist board site . Do you have a place to stay? See this earlier Forum thread about cheap lodging near the Le Puy train.

Bon voyage and Buen camino,

Margaret Meredith

Thanks Margaret I will check out those links. Yes we're staying in the Mercure Hotel Part Dieu - handy for our connecting train and triple glazed windows so train noise is not an issue

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Local Lyon cuisine uses the entire animal. We had a lunch of veal feet, sausages, tongue, and brain in a restaurant favored by our pelerin friend from Lyon. The concierge may have some suggestions.

Paul Bocuse has four restaurants, including his original one, in Lyon. Prix fixe at about 240E.

Traditional Lyonnais Food
A traditional Lyonnais menu centers around meat, particularly offal. Typical foods include andouille (grilled chitterlings sausage), tripe (pig or cow’s stomach), or boudin noir (blood sausage). Other common dishes include, chicken liver salad, cerverlas, (raw pork sausages), quenelles (flour, egg and cream dumplings), or Cervelle de canut, (which means “brains of the silk-weaver” and consists of cream cheese mixed with garlic and chives.) Some contemporary bouchons serve more upscale French cuisine, such as fois gras and truffles, but for many Lyonnais, true bouchons only offer foods that are distinctly unpretentious.

In a dining establishment in Lyon, you can eat pig fat fried in pig fat, a pig's brain dressed in a porky vinaigrette, a salad made with creamy pig lard, a chicken cooked inside a sealed pig's bladder, a pig's digestive tract filled up with pig's blood and cooked like a custard, nuggets of a pig's belly mixed with cold vinegary lentils, a piggy intestine blown up like a balloon and stuffed thickly with a handful of piggy intestines, and a sausage roasted in a brioche (an elevated version of a "pig in a blanket"). For these and other reasons, Lyon, for 76 years, has been recognised as the gastronomic capital of France and the world. The world is a big place. Two and a half years ago, I persuaded my wife Jessica Green and our three-year-old twins that we should move to Lyon to see what was so good about the good food there.

 

[Sixwheeler]

Head into the old town for THE best food in France from one of Lyon's "Bouchons" - strictly controlled traditional restaurants.

 

[backpack45]

You might want to check out one of the puppet theaters--a long history and unique to the city.
Many good restaurants and we especially enjoyed Potager des Halles, 3 rue de la Martinière (Métro Hôtel de ville). NYTimes says a great little place and a great value.
Also, I know they serve this dish (Raclette) in Grenoble, it you can find it in Lyon, it is quite an experience:
Raclette: "Soon the waiter brought a contraption to our tiny table that looked like a miniature version of a torture device from the middle ages. He draped extension cords across the floor to plug it in ( would never pass safety inspection in the US). Then he brought a basket of small boiled potatoes and a huge wedge of cheese, which was attached by skewer to the device. The partially shielded, but bare, heating element was turned on and as it warmed, the suspended cheese began to melt. We were to scrape the melting cheese off the wedge as it softened and to put it on the potatoes, but the cheese melted so fast that I was reminded of Lucille Ball in the I Love Lucy episode where she can't keep up with the suds pouring out of the over-soaped washer. (c 2012)

 

[irishgurrrl]

You might want to check out one of the puppet theaters--a long history and unique to the city.
Many good restaurants and we especially enjoyed Potager des Halles, 3 rue de la Martinière (Métro Hôtel de ville). NYTimes says a great little place and a great value.
Also, I know they serve this dish (Raclette) in Grenoble, it you can find it in Lyon, it is quite an experience:
Raclette: "Soon the waiter brought a contraption to our tiny table that looked like a miniature version of a torture device from the middle ages. He draped extension cords across the floor to plug it in ( would never pass safety inspection in the US). Then he brought a basket of small boiled potatoes and a huge wedge of cheese, which was attached by skewer to the device. The partially shielded, but bare, heating element was turned on and as it warmed, the suspended cheese began to melt. We were to scrape the melting cheese off the wedge as it softened and to put it on the potatoes, but the cheese melted so fast that I was reminded of Lucille Ball in the I Love Lucy episode where she can't keep up with the suds pouring out of the over-soaped washer. (c 2012)

Ah raclette - I was just chatting about that today! I lived in Haute Savoie (French Alps region) for a few months many moons ago and that was a speciality there! It definitely is an experience

I will add that restaurant to my list - this camino is turning into a walking and eating one! haha

 

[Olivares]

A few years ago I accompanied my husband on a business trip to Lyon and the local hosts took us to a restaurant called "La Machonnerie" (36 Rue Tramassac). They said it was authentic cuisine from Lyon and by the size of the locals crowd and excellent food we had to agreed! Small place but it has an amazing reputation and that is a mouthful when it comes to Lyon... Prices very reasonable (we were guests but I took a peek at the prices! )

 

[irishgurrrl]

Thanks Olivares

Has anyone any recommendations for sights to see or things to do (apart from eating! haha) on the Sunday morning and early afternoon?

 

[Sixwheeler]

There used to be a good flea market on the banks of the Saone on Sunday mornings.

 

[NadAmr]

The Way reaching Le Puy is passing by Lyon( approx.one week), in front of the St Nizier church, then passing near the Basillique de Fouviere. If you have some time, you can find the shells on the ground up there! Every way goes to Santiago apparently!
Bon Chemin!

 

[irishgurrrl]

There used to be a good flea market on the banks of the Saone on Sunday mornings.

Thanks! I love French markets!

 

[Olivares]

I thought Lyon was one amazingly interesting city. The traboules that Margaret Meredith mentioned blew me away and it is the one thing nobody should miss if ever in Lyon with limited time. Apparently, they developed from the need to move water from the river to courtyards and later to move silk textiles around town without them getting wet/exposed. I just love that you would go into this totally unassuming door and this whole network of tunnels and secret passageways opens up. Just be respectful of the residents who agree to have the traboules open to the public from 8am-7pm, but do ask visitors to be quiet (you will be literally at their courtyards/front doors). It drove the occupying German forces crazy during WWII as the French resistance movement knew the traboules so well they will often hide and escaped from under the Gestapo' noses by taking shortcuts through the traboules. If anything don't miss the Croix-Rousse Traboule at the Place des Capucins which is where the renowned Resistance leader Jean Moulin had his "office". As you can tell Lyon made quite an impression on me!

I also have an interesting story about the Old Cathedral. One morning, I visited the older cathedral by myself as my husband was attending to business. The moment I stepped in I just felt a very strong feeling of people crying and sick and screaming and not being allowed to go further into the church. I almost ran out the feeling was so intense. Later on that evening, the local hosts took both of us around Old Lyon and we had the opportunity to go back again in the old cathedral. I mentioned nothing of my earlier experience. They went on to mentioned that this cathedral building had once been "condemned" during one of the episodes of the Plague because the poor sick population had stormed in and demanded more assistance from the Clergy during this horrible epidemic. The sick crowd were not even allowed to go further to the Altar and many just stayed there and died at the Cathedral. I was stunned when I heard this. I had no idea. True story- God Honest truth. I still don't know what to make of that one....

 

[irishgurrrl]

I thought Lyon was one amazingly interesting city. The traboules that Margaret Meredith mentioned blew me away and it is the one thing nobody should miss if ever in Lyon with limited time. Apparently, they developed from the need to move water from the river to courtyards and later to move silk textiles around town without them getting wet/exposed. I just love that you would go into this totally unassuming door and this whole network of tunnels and secret passageways opens up. Just be respectful of the residents who agree to have the traboules open to the public from 8am-7pm, but do ask visitors to be quiet (you will be literally at their courtyards/front doors). It drove the occupying German forces crazy during WWII as the French resistance movement knew the traboules so well they will often hide and escaped from under the Gestapo' noses by taking shortcuts through the traboules. If anything don't miss the Croix-Rousse Traboule at the Place des Capucins which is where the renowned Resistance leader Jean Moulin had his "office". As you can tell Lyon made quite an impression on me!

I also have an interesting story about the Old Cathedral. One morning, I visited the older cathedral by myself as my husband was attending to business. The moment I stepped in I just felt a very strong feeling of people crying and sick and screaming and not being allowed to go further into the church. I almost ran out the feeling was so intense. Later on that evening, the local hosts took both of us around Old Lyon and we had the opportunity to go back again in the old cathedral. I mentioned nothing of my earlier experience. They went on to mentioned that this cathedral building had once been "condemned" during one of the episodes of the Plague because the poor sick population had stormed in and demanded more assistance from the Clergy during this horrible epidemic. The sick crowd were not even allowed to go further to the Altar and many just stayed there and died at the Cathedral. I was stunned when I heard this. I had no idea. True story- God Honest truth. I still don't know what to make of that one....

Wow what an amazing story Olivares - I do believe you (as someone who does "energy work" and very interested in energy generally)...... emotions/people/events can leave an "imprint"/atmosphere in places... you are simply sensitive to such energy and picked it up

I have to say I am reading everyone's suggestions with great interest and thanks for giving such interesting background histories too

 

[Olivares]

As a side note, I live in NY and one of the 9/11 planes flew above my house enroute to the (first) Twin Tower hit. The night of Sept 10th I kept waking up in terror with a recurring nightmare of a plane hitting a tall building. I even saw it as an American Airlines plane. I swear to you this is the truth. So, yes, I definitely have to say there is something out there ("energy work") that some can tap in; my Great-grandmother was known for this and I am amazed by it.

I don't think we digressed on the subject-- the Camino definitely has an "energy" about it! BUEN CAMINO!!

 

[StephenT]

Hi Irishgurrrl - if Romans are your thing - don't miss the really great GalloRoman museum, which is next to the Amphitheatres up the hill from Old Lyon (- quite a pull uphill, or rather up the stairs...!!) AND also the main St Jean cathedral (- also some really beautiful church / religious / liturgical articles in the Treasury) AND also the Fourviere Basilica (- fantastic extravanganza, built 1870s as thanksgiving for the town being spared in the Franco-Prussian war; has a great mosaic of St Jacques AND the Old Lyon for food; AND the Amphitheatre des 3 Gaules is really a second-tier sight, although it is historical you have to look at it through iron railings; AND Les Halles is worth a wander through, just for the spectacle of the food displays, and I guess for its association with the chef Bocuse; AND the views up and down river from any of the bridges across to Vieux Lyon - YES I'd go back, definitely...! - Bon Chemin - Stephen / NZ

 

[MichaelB10398]

I will repeat some of places to see mentioned above, but these are some of the best in Lyon:

1. Roman Theaters and Gallo-Roman Museum Fine museum covering Roman Lyon. If you have a penchant for early history this is great.
2. Vieux Lyon - this is a historic core of the old city in a traffic-free area. If it is raining this area has covered passageways.
3. Notre-Dame Basilica - Lyon's version of Paris' Sacré-Cœur.
4. Museum of Fine Arts - recognized as France's second-most-important fine-arts museum (Louvre is first).
5. Resistance and Deportation History Center - all the displays and videos tell the inspirational story of the French Resistance.
6. Lumière Museum Museum of film - dedicated to the Lumière brothers pivotal contribution and career.
7. St. Jean Cathedral Gothic church - this really is a must see because of the 700 year old astronomical clock and stained-glass windows.
8. Gadagne Museums - these are actually two museums that bring to life Lyon's glory days and the tradition of Guignol puppets.
9. Atelier de la Soierie Workshop - focused on handmade silk printing and screen painting.
10. La Croix-Rousse Fun - something to pass the time rather than see something specific - it is a historic neighborhood with great morning produce market.
11. Museums of Textiles and Decorative Arts - another pair of museums with one tracing the development of textile weaving over 2,000 years and the other featuring 18th-century mansion decor.

With the limited time you have it is difficult to know what best to recommend. However, you know best how you will feel and what offers the most interest. Enjoy a great city.

 

[Thomas1962]

Getting the Best out of Lyon - City Highlights and Recommendations

Just ingore this message if you want, but an obvious camino phrase come up by reading the tittle: Is it what you need or is it what you want?

 

[StephenT]

<<St. Jean Cathedral Gothic church - this really is a must see because of the 700 year old astronomical clock and stained-glass windows>>

AGREED with Michael as to the Cathedral - unfortunately the astronomical clock was still under repair (as at my visit in July 2013) - after the crazed vandalous attack by a deranged person some time previously...! / Stephen in NZ

 

[irishgurrrl]

Wow - great lists people Will be selecting a few that sing to me

 

[AlanSykes]

Sorry it's back on food, but Les Halles are fantastic, with some great fish and ham stalls, and cafés, restaurants etc. And I think they're open on Sunday, so you could stock up with a nice picnic to eat on the train.

Also worth having a look at the opera house. Even if you don't like opera, it's an amazing building, where Jean Nouvel has squeezed a shiny new theatre inside the shell (and bursting out of) a fairly ordinary 19th century building.

 

[irishgurrrl]

hee hee no need to apologise for mentioning food Sounds great Alan