LIVE from the Camino Gudbrandsdalsleden - Eidsvoll to Trondheim

[Purky]

Day 1, Amsterdam to Eidsvoll

It never ceases to amaze me: a trainride and a couple of hours in a metal tube in the sky and I am in a completely different country. Norway, in this case.
The next three weeks I'll be walking the Gudbrandsdalsleden, from Eidsvoll to Trondheim. I've finally decided to be a sensible boy so I didn't start in Oslo. Instead I took a fifteen minute trainride from Gardermoen airport to Eidsvoll, about 84 kilometers north of Oslo. I hope to make it to Trondheim in my timeframe.
Eidsvoll is small, but I found an ATM for cash, a sportstore for a Jetboil gas canister and mosquito repellent, and a supermarket for some food. Good to go.
At this moment I am sitting on a picknick bench outside Haug Pilegrimsrast, an unmanned refuge for pilgrims, about two kilometers out of Eidsvoll. I was very happy to pay 50 NOK (about 5 euro) for a bed, the use of a small kitchen and the possibility of a cold shower. I think I'll skip the last one.

 

[Colette Z]

Buen Camino, hoping you can post your experience.

 

[Purky]

Day 2, Eidsvoll - Lysjøen - Tangen

Underestimated my own stubbernness, so I walked way too long. The next stages may become a little easier to plan but the old body is protesting loudly. Hope I can get up in the morning...
Today the landscape varied between farmland, forest and a few lakes thrown in for good measure. Including, at the end, Mjøsa, the biggest lake in Norway. I finally ended up in Tangen where I pitched my tent at the local camping.

 

[alexwalker]

Welcome to my Norway!

Buen Camino!

 

[SabsP]

@Purky : Enjoy it to the fullest!

 

[ivar]

God tur!

 

[Former member 49149]

Day 2, Eidsvoll - Lysjøen - Tangen

Underestimated my own stubbernness, so I walked way too long. The next stages may become a little easier to plan but the old body is protesting loudly. Hope I can get up in the morning...
Today the landscape varied between farmland, forest and a few lakes thrown in for good measure. Including, at the end, Mjøsa, the biggest lake in Norway. I finally ended up in Tangen where I pitched my tent at the local camping.

I love the sheep. And you have touched some hearts...

 

[Paladina]

Another camino coincidence! Over the past few weeks several people (including @alexwalker) have aroused my interest in a Norwegian camino, so I’ll be following your progress with particular interest. Long may your stubbornness continue!

 

[Purky]

Long may your stubbornness continue!

And may the thing you need always be on top in your backpack!

 

[Purky]

Thanks all, for the good wishes!

 

[FamPed]

Lovely pictures. I wish you a wonderful time in Norway.

 

[Purky]

Day 3, Tangen - Hamar

The day started with grusvei (gravel road) and a lot of it. It led me mainly through pine forest, with a little birch here and there. Until Såstad, out of the woods, where the horizon dramatically opened up behind large farms, fields and grasslands. The distinctive shape of Stange church was visible in the distance, as was lake Mjøsa.

After Stange church it was a long slog on asphalt. With Hamar in view I then walked through a golf course and passed the brewery Atlungstad Brenneri. They served soft drinks too! After that towards Pilegrimsherberge Hamar, also one of the six Pilegrimssenters in Norway. Friendly, spotless and lots of amenities.

 

[VNwalking]

May your legs outlast the stubbornness, @Purky !
And thanks for sharing your way with the rest of us.
@ivar said "God tur," which I guess means buen camino...may it be so!

 

[Purky]

Intermission.

Halfway through the night something felt not right with my left ear. So I tried to remove the Ohropax, but couldn't find it. Not the first time that had happened, so I felt around the pillow to look for the little lump. Nothing. Felt around some more, and extended my radius. Still nothing.

It slowly started to dawn on me that the "something feeling not right" and not being able to find the Ohropax could mean something else. A quick trip to the bathroom confirmed it: the wax earplug was firmly lodged deep in my ear canal. And out of my reach.

So I went back to sleep, because there was nothing else to do. In the morning a fellow pilgrim checked, but he announced he couldn't see a thing. Afraid to do damage myself, I googled for hospital and found a 24/7 one. Ten minutes away on a bike I could borrow from the hostel.

Once in the hospital I quickly became the silly story of the day. I was seen to within fifteen minutes by a smiling doctor who had to resort to improvising because this was her first case of Ohropax blockage. Three pairs of tweezers later she pulled the obnoxious ball of wax out and high fived me. Success!

The things pilgrims go through...

 

[gschmidl]

That happened to me once. Use the non-wax ones instead.

 

[Purky]

Day 4, Hamar - Lillehammer

According to my guidebook, the folks at Hamar Pilegrimsherberge and the owner of hostel Herkestad, who I spoke briefly with yesterday, I am not cheating today. In fact, the paddle steamer DS Skibladner has a history of transporting pilgrims since 1856. So I decided to cruise from Hamar to Lillehammer today, because the timetable was in my favour. After all: it's perfectly legal, and what's not to like about sailing the pride of Norway's inland on a beautiful sunny day. No purist, I.

It also does wonders for my schedule. Instead of the initial nineteen days walking thirty km per day on average, I am now left with sixteen days of about twenty-six km. A lot of breathing space opens up. So between the succesful removal of the Ohropax, a heavily discounted trip on a 19th century steamship (pilgrim price 100 NOK) and a less strenuous schedule for the days to come, I feel quite chuffed.

I pitched my tent at Lillehammer camping. A rather large affair, mostly caravans and campervans. But they have a nice little patch for a few tents by the lakeshore.

 

[VNwalking]

Well done, Purky, on all counts. I'm chuffed for you. Trust a Dutch guy to find a good boat....
Continued god tur!

 

[Paladina]

And may the thing you need always be on top in your backpack!

Sadly, the things I need, strategically placed in my pack, are the ones most likely to fall by the wayside. I hope the finder of the bright yellow recycling bag containing my day’s supply of bread, cheese and fruit enjoyed the unexpected manna from pilgrim heaven.

 

[Purky]

Day 5, Lillehammer - Skåden Gard

Getting up I was happy: rain was predicted for today but at six in the morning it was still dry, and so was my tent. Simple pleasures. Walking out of Lillehammer it started drizzling, but never got very serious. Apart from that Lillehammer didn't really succeed in impressing me, but it might have been the grey sky.

Shortly after Einsbybakken it became much more interesting. I walked into the 'tjodveigen', ancient paths that existed for man and horse since before pilgrimages started. Along one of those paths through the forest I could also take a short detour to see Kjærlighetsfossen, waterfall of love. Ever the romantic, I took the detour.

Through forest and over asphalt I slowly made my way towards Skåden Gard, but I messed up just after farm Høvren. It was drizzling again, so my guide was in my pack and I relied solely on the waymarking (which up until now is great, by the way). I"d forgotten there was a tricky bit at this stage, and I ended up off-piste. Which added some more kilometers to my day, unfortunately.

I recovered quickly when I reached Skåden Gard (just two minutes before it really started raining too!), an idyllic old farm and hostel. I got a little cabin to myself tonight and it has the lowest door I've ever passed. I feel like Gandalf in the Shire.

 

[Tali]

I'm thrilled to be reading your blog! I was in Oslo earlier this summer, dreaming of walking to Trondheim. I'd never heard anyone's pilgrim story to T so was a bit unsure. Hearing your pilgrimage is wonderful! Thank you! Tali

 

[Purky]

Day 6, Skåden Gard - Nordrum Gård (Fåvang)

It was a day of ups and downs. The first 15 km leaving Skåden Gard was mostly uphill but a gorgeous route through forests and over grassy paths. All this halfway on mountain slopes with every once in a while stunning views on Lågen river to the left.

But it was slow going, as I had read in my guide the night before. Therefore I hadn't made reservations for today: I hoped I would make it to Nordrum Gård, but wasn't sure I would.

My sense of not making it that far changed after Glomstad Gjestehus. After that point the route went mostly level or downhill. On tarmac, the bulk of it, but it made for good time. And Lågen river was still to my left. Otherwise most of the next 15 km would have been a bit boring.

So I made it (Nordrum Gård is on the last photo)! I'm staying here with 3 other pilgrims (all German) and three of us already made a trip to the supermarket in the beat-up old Subaru of the owner of this hostel. So I'm gonna do a little cooking tonight, with a cold beer while I'm at it.

 

[Purky]

A quick post, from B27 Hostel in Ringebu. I was taking a break and sheltering from the rain under their porch, when I was graciously offered coffee and wifi. They are closed, but saw me sitting outside. Norway is treating me very well.

And since I have wifi, here are some pics of Ringebu Stavkirke. Quite the sight.

 

[Former member 49149]

A quick post, from B27 Hostel in Ringebu. I was taking a break and sheltering from the rain under their porch, when I was graciously offered coffee and wifi. They are closed, but saw me sitting outside. Norway is treating me very well.

And since I have wifi, here are some pics of Ringebu Stavkirke. Quite the sight.

Feels cool, old fashioned cool!

 

[VNwalking]

Just wow @Purky . Gorgeous photos.

 

[Purky]

Day 7, Nordrum Gård (Fåvang) - Sygard Grytting (Hunsdorp)

A good day. I think I'm getting my camino legs. And the rain during the whole day didn't really bother me. I just walked, visiting places, enjoying the views and the people I met.

The thing that stood out the most today is the place where I ended up: Sygard Grytting near Hunsdorp. With a history dating back to the 14th century, the place feels like you stepped into the Middle Ages. The pilgrim attic, where I'll be spending the night, is really something to behold.

I might have been a little worried about a shower, until I found them. Quietly hidden on the second floor of the barn are two modern showers and toilets, with floor heating no less! A discrete delight, and my good fortune.

Dinner was also an unexpected treat. (Apart from the food, because Norwegian supermarket bread isn't something you'd wish on anybody). I sat with the only other pilgrim (again a German one) and our conversation was one of those you can only have with strangers. Who aren't strangers anymore when you're done talking.

 

[HeidiL]

Sygard Grytting is lovely - we have eaten t here several times when we drive from Oslo to visit relatives in the West of Norway. I'm glad to hear they treat pilgrims well!

We'll probably be passing you in a car going in the other direction on Tuesday - will wave if we see you, but I think that part of the route is far from the road.

 

[Purky]

will wave if we see you

When I walk on the road (which is not uncommon until now), I walk on the left and wave or raise my hand at every car. To say both 'hi' and 'thank you for not hitting me'. So I'll definitely wave back! Honk if you see a grey haired man with black pants and a green pack...

 

[Airdog]

Please keep it up - I’m so enjoying your recount of each day!

 

[Purky]

When I entered the grounds of Sygard Grytting yesterday, I noticed a sculpture. Took a photo, and asked Stieg, the owner of the place, about it later. Because it kept sitting in the front of my brain.

Turns out that there were a lot more, and it was part of a project called Flokk, by Gitte Dæhlin. It was to be her last project.

I went to see it, by evening light, and took some more photos. I slept calmly, in the company of the Flokk.

 

[chinacat]

I’m late to this super-cool thread ...

As VN said, Just wow!!

Love your photographs ... Norway is so very beautiful!

Go well!

 

[Earthmothercrystal]

Thank you for your posts and photos. I am really enjoying them. I hope to make the journey in 2020.

 

[Purky]

Day 8, Sygard Grytting (Hunsdorp) - Kirketeigen Camping (Kvam)

Disregard my statement about getting my camino legs. There was a lot of 'going up' involved in today's stage and I was hurting. It feels like there is more climbing than descending going on here in Norway, though it sounds absurd. But I'm very suspicious.

Apart from that it was gorgeous again. Quiet forests with every shade of green, ragged rock walls and amazing views of the green Lågen river winding its way on my left.

Met up with the same German pilgrim from yesterday, and because there is a supermarket in Kvam, we decided to pool our reserves and cooked a nice pepper steak dinner. Together with fried mushrooms and onion, grilled asparagus and a salad with white cheese and olives. And a cold beer. I kid you not.

 

[chinacat]

@Purky
Where’s the “Yum!” ‘like’, when you need it?

Love those sheep
.... and what’s with the hay/straw on the path, so close to that giraffe?

 

[nycwalking]

Enjoying these posts.

Day 8, Sygard Grytting (Hunsdorp) - Kirketeigen Camping (Kvam)

Disregard my statement about getting my camino legs. There was a lot of 'going up' involved in today's stage and I was hurting. It feels like there is more climbing than descending going on here in Norway, though it sounds absurd. But I'm very suspicious.

Apart from that it was gorgeous again. Quiet forests with every shade of green, ragged rock walls and amazing views of the green Lågen river winding its way on my left.

Met up with the same German pilgrim from yesterday, and because there is a supermarket in Kvam, we decided to pool our reserves and cooked a nice pepper steak dinner. Together with fried mushrooms and onion, grilled asparagus and a salad with white cheese and olives. And a cold beer. I kid you not.

 

[dougfitz]

Disregard my statement about getting my camino legs. There was a lot of 'going up' involved in today's stage and I was hurting. It feels like there is more climbing than descending going on here in Norway, though it sounds absurd. But I'm very suspicious.

Well, you will generally be climbing until you cross the Dovrefjell! That said, I think my biggest climbing day was leaving Hamar but there were others similar to that at around 1300-1400m of aggregate climb. Sygard Grytting to Kvam was about 800m of aggregate climb, a bit over the average that I recorded for the whole of my walk, but not by much.

I was fascinated by the abandoned crofts just after Sygard Grytting. I am not sure how people thought that anyone could eke out a living here year round, but it appeared they did, at least for a few years. I am pretty sure they weren't herding giraffes, though, that wasn't something I saw in 2012!

 

[Purky]

and what’s with the hay/straw on the path, so close to that giraffe?

Norwegian humour!

Well, you will generally be climbing until you cross the Dovrefjell!

Thanks for that, Doug! By the way, the guide all Germans use claims that if you've made it through yesterday's stage, you are ready for everything the fjell has in store for you. That made me feel good.
But as I'm looking at today's height profile, I'm flinching again. Three tough climbs...

 

[dougfitz]

Thanks for that, Doug! By the way, the guide all Germans use claims that if you've made it through yesterday's stage, you are ready for everything the fjell has in store for you. That made me feel good.
But as I'm looking at today's height profile, I'm flinching again. Three tough climbs...

There are still some interesting sections ahead for you depending on some route choices you make, but you have probably met all the major technical challenges by now.

If I recall where you are, that third climb was indeed tough, but it was also a spectacular walk higher up on the valley wall. It had been raining for a couple of days when I did it, and all the valley streams were in full flow. It might be tempting to take the valley road, but I was really glad to have done the marked path in the end.

 

[Purky]

I was really glad to have done the marked path in the end.

 

[Purky]

Day 9, Kirketeigen Camping (Kvam) - Otta Turistsenter (sort of)

Brutal. Today was an all out balls to the wall slugfest. It got so bad that I put in my earbuds for some carefully selected music, to drown out the screaming from my legs. That actually worked quite well, and got me through the first two climbs. By the time I hit the third I was so numb and resignated I just walked.

I hated it. I loved it. There is nothing more to say about it, really. I'll let the pics do the talking.

In Otta I could do some shopping (bread and stuff) and I suddenly walked past a pizzeria. That was open! And serving! No amount of wild horses could have dragged me away. After that I decided to add another 3 km to the day's distance.

I wanted to spend the night on the camping of Otta Turistsenter, but that turned out different. It appears to be closed for business. Guess I'll be camping in the wild tonight. Not walking back to Otta.

 

[alexwalker]

@Purky : After Dovre, it's all downhill to Trondheim. Beautiful landscapes ahead for you!

 

[Purky]

@Purky : After Dovre, it's all downhill to Trondheim. Beautiful landscapes ahead for you!

I'm really looking forward to the Dovrefjell. Be there in a day or two. Curious if I can manage to update this thread there. Otherwise you guys will have to wait for a couple of days.

 

[chinacat]

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/attachments/20190723_143720-jpg.61581/

I hope you sat on that bridge and let your bare feet dangle in all those negative ions above the cool waters ....

 

[Purky]

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/attachments/20190723_143720-jpg.61581/

I hope you sat on that bridge and let your bare feet dangle in all those negative ions above the cool waters ....

How'd you know?

 

[dougfitz]

I'm really looking forward to the Dovrefjell. Be there in a day or two. Curious if I can manage to update this thread there. Otherwise you guys will have to wait for a couple of days.

Telenor and Telia seem to have good coverage along the E6, but once away from that it looks patchy. This is much the same as when I walked in 2012. The only place I stayed that didn't have some form of mobile coverage was Rhypusan. Budsjord Gard, Furuhaugli, Hjerrkin and Kongsvoll all had mobile coverage. Once I left left Kongsvoll I didn't have coverage until I got closer to Oppdal.

 

[HeidiL]

In Otta I could do some shopping (bread and stuff) and I suddenly walked past a pizzeria. That was open! And serving! No amount of wild horses could have dragged me away. After that I decided to add another 3 km to the day's distance.

I've eaten at that pizzeria...

I can see from your pictures that you were in the wilderness yesterday, so we didn't see you from the car. I sent friendly thoughts in your direction, but think it was your own fortitude that got you up those mountains.

 

[Purky]

I've eaten at that pizzeria...

I can see from your pictures that you were in the wilderness yesterday, so we didn't see you from the car. I sent friendly thoughts in your direction, but think it was your own fortitude that got you up those mountains.

I was waiting for a honk, 3 km before and after Otta, late in the afternoon along the E6. Alas, not a peep. Chances were astronomical of course, but stranger things have happened... Hope you had a pleasant trip!

 

[Isobeljc]

WOW
Thank you so much for your posts. Love finding out about an area I know nothing about. Will have to get the maps out to follow your progress !!!

 

[Purky]

Day 10, Turistsenter Otta - Vollheim camping

Well, that was a nice change of pace: from my spot by the Lågen river it was only 10 km to Nord-Sel. And, not unimportantly, level kilometers. So I was there in no time flat. Had a short break at the local Coop supermarket (one of the last before the fjell) and took care of the last shopping to be done. I'm good till Oppdal, foodwise.

Otherwise it was a bit of an unremarkable day. Pretty much a rehash of what I've been seeing the last couple of days, but without the stunning vistas. The only thing worth mentioning was the stretch between Nord-Sel and Høgste, through the forest and avoiding the train tracks. But only because it was hard going, with a lot of ups and downs.

And I called it a day at Vollheim camping. I was aiming for Engelshus, but I couldn't reach them by phone, my feet were hurting and I didn't really want to walk another 9 km or thereabouts. Plus they have a washing machine here, and my pants really needed a wash. Not so stubborn today...

 

[Purky]

Day 11, Vollheim camping - Fokstugu

From the camping it was about 14 km to Dovre church, for a large part through the forest but a bigger part on asphalt. I was keen to get to Budsjord, because just after that historic inn the 'kongevegen' or king's road over the Dovrefjell would start. Both literally and figuratively the highlight of this journey, according to my guide.

From Budsjord to Hardbakken, the highest point of today, I was on a fierce climb of 6 km, but that wasn't the only thing that left me breathless. I find it hard to put into words how my introduction with the fjell affected me. Majestic springs to mind, but it sounds so cliché. Nevertheless.

I set up camp in the sheep meadow of Fokstugu. Have to be a little careful with my budget at this stage, and this is an elegant way to do it. I hope the sheep don't mind my company or eat my tent.

 

[Earthmothercrystal]

Is the statue in your photos of Day 10 Kristin Lavransdatter?

 

[Purky]

Is the statue in your photos of Day 10 Kristin Lavransdatter?

Yes, it's in front of the church in Nord-Sel.

 

[Earthmothercrystal]

Did you go to Sigrid Undset's home in Lillehammer? If so, what did you think of it?

 

[Purky]

Did you go to Sigrid Undset's home in Lillehammer? If so, what did you think of it?

No, I didn't. But I walked around Jørundgard a little, the filmset of the film by Liv Ullmann. Now partly in use as accommodation for pilgrims! Just before Nord-Sel.

 

[Purky]

Breakfast and a cup a joe (two, actually) on the fjell. Next to a babbling brook. I am deliriously happy...

 

[nidarosa]

Thank you for this thread, @Purky! I started walking from Oslo towards my home town of Trondheim in May last year. We decided to walk in spring to avoid the heat and it turned into a heatwave! I can walk when I am tired and cold and ill, and I can walk in rain and wind and snow, but I can not walk in blistering heat and certainly not with a 10 kg pack. In addition to that we would each have to carry litres and litres of water; at one stage we simply didn't have enough bladder bags to carry enough water for the next day because the water source at our next accommodation was dried up and dodgy. We got as far as Brumunddal, but after three uncomfortable bouts of dehydration and my walking buddy suffering a bad case of heat exhaustion and migraine, we decided to call it off. The heat wave was set to last for another two weeks (and it did), so in hindsight I know it makes sense to put it on hold but it still smarts. I am only just coming to terms with it now and after this post I am toying with the idea of giving it another go ... so thank you and god tur videre!

 

[Purky]

@nidarosa: I remember your story about the heatwave during your walk! On the fjell today I'm having a cosy 24 degrees and every once in a while a coolish breeze. Perfect conditions. Plenty of cold streams for water (still blows my mind, just drinking the water from the waterfalls, brooks and streams). I also remember you offered to buy me a beer in Trondheim... Are you there on August the 3rd or 4th?

 

[nidarosa]

I also remember you offered to buy me a beer in Trondheim... Are you there on August the 3rd or 4th?

Sadly not! I don't live there anymore, and just came back from a visit on the 15th. I stand by my offer though, who knows, one day our pilgrim paths will cross

 

[Purky]

Day 12, Fokstugu - Hjerkinnhus Vandrerhjem

The sheep behaved perfectly. No noise till about five, no holes in my tent and no fresh droppings by the entrance. So I packed quick and went on my way, curious what the day would bring.

It was of course different, but certainly not in a bad way. A little less overwhelming, which gave me more time and space to drink it all in. Including the little things, that I did observe yesterday, but were somewhat overshadowed by the grandiose vistas that kept shouting at me.

To the casual observer it might seem that the Dovrefjell is a million shades of green and some gray. But if you look closely, and you are forced to because you need to watch where you put your feet, a lot more colors jump up at you. Insects, the moss on stones, the stones itself, flowers, a bright feast for the eyes.

It was another magical day. And I feel very lucky to be able to walk here in such perfect conditions. Brilliant weather, the old legs are working along fine and I'm meeting all kinds of nice people. All Germans though; I've never spoken so much German in my life. I'm in Norway, for crying out loud!

 

[Purky]

Mutt and Jeff...

 

[Purky]

Day 13, Hjerkinnhus Vandrerhjem - Vårstigsetra

My guide claims 25 km for this stage, my stepcounter says 29 (but I know the last one is off by at least 2 km too much). Fact of the matter is that I was done 2 km after the buildings of Vårstigsetra summer farm (10 km before Ryphusan). Finished. No more.

So I found a nice big rock with some level ground around it, set up camp and cooked and ate dinner. Afterwards I very much enjoyed a cup of coffee and a thimble of my old travel buddy Jameson. I felt I had earned it. It's been a long and hilly day.

Apart from that I'm still gobsmacked by the beauty of the Dovrefjell. I also enjoyed passing through Kongsvold very much: the perfect setting for a nice break. A very authentic and historic feel about the place, not to mention calm and quiet.

The bummer of the day was the stretch between Kongsvold and Jøroskloppa, a parking/rest area 3,5 to 4 km further along the E6. Very tricky and uncomfortable, and it has been dry and sunny for days. If it rains, or has been raining, I would advise strongly against walking that bit. Try hitching a ride or find some other mode of transport in that case.

No coverage here: I'll post this tomorrow when I head towards Oppdal. It's about 9 in the evening and I think I'm gonna turn in. The mosquitos are bullying me.

 

[VNwalking]

I'm so enoying your posts...though I have to say it feels like camino voyeurism. I'll never walk this way, so why am I peering over your shoulder so keenly, other than to let you do all the work while I look at the gorgeous photos from my comfortable chair. Thanks @Purky!

 

[SabsP]

My daily dose of Camino envy.

Keep enjoying @Purky!

 

[Purky]

I'm so enoying your posts...though I have to say it feels like camino voyeurism. I'll never walk this way, so why am I peering over your shoulder so keenly, other than to let you do all the work while I look at the gorgeous photos from my comfortable chair. Thanks @Purky!

The work is gladly done!

 

[Purky]

My daily dose of Camino envy.

Keep enjoying @Purky!

It's like a feuilleton!

 

[Purky]

Gearly Afflicted

Maybe this is a good time for a little post for those of you who are also gearly afflicted. You know, when you enter an outdoor shop and immediately spot five items you absolutely need to have. Kid in a candy store.

As a try out I brought an Anker PowerPort Solar. I like camping, but I also like my phone and powerbank to be charged, and that can be a hassle. A solar charger was one of the options, and on the basis of reviews and my earlier good experiences with the brand I went with Anker.

So far so good! With a little ingenuity the thing is easy to fasten on your pack, and with the brilliant weather I'm having it is no trouble to keep my phone and powerbank topped up. (I'm also walking North, so the sun is in my back the whole day, but hey...) Plus it weighs next to nothing (355 grams).

I'll get some small carabiners to make fastening even easier and quicker, but this gadget is for keeps.

 

[Purky]

Day 14, Vårstigsetra - Plassastuggu / Plastoggo (Driva)

The man who came down from the mountain, that was me today. It was the most relaxed and easy stage for me so far. The first 4 km from my camping spot went up slightly, but after that it all went gently downhill.

I was up and about at five, and saw the sun rise over the fjell. Packed up and walked towards Ryphusan, where I wanted to take a break and eat some breakfast. It turned out to also be a fabulous place, so do stay if you get the chance.

The rest of the way down was awesome. Great views of the valley, and at a certain point the slow reappearance of cultivation. Fields started to emerge, farmhouses, and at last a view of Driva in the distance.

I felt so relaxed that I decided to stay in the unmanned cabin Plastoggo, although I easily could have made it to Oppdal. But I felt at home here. The only thing missing is a shower, so out of curiosity I checked out Camping Smegarden (200 meter further). A nice camping, not really my scene, but good for a night.

And then I suddenly did something naughty. I walked into the shower building, got into a shower cubicle and fed enough coins into the slot to ease my conscience. After that very long shower I collected my things and walked back to the cabin like nothing happened. Ah Purky, you shower scoundrel.

 

[dougfitz]

The bummer of the day was the stretch between Kongsvold and Jøroskloppa, a parking/rest area 3,5 to 4 km further along the E6. Very tricky and uncomfortable, and it has been dry and sunny for days. If it rains, or has been raining, I would advise strongly against walking that bit. Try hitching a ride or find some other mode of transport in that case.

I was wondering if this section was going to be demanding. It doesn't seem to have improved!!

 

[Purky]

I was wondering if this section was going to be demanding. It doesn't seem to have improved!!

I had the same feeling about the two climbs between Kvam and Varphaugen some days ago. Especially the second climb. I called with the Pilegrimssenter Dale-Gudbrands Gard afterwards, because they asked for my feedback for that stretch during my visit. I said I would never have chanced it in or directly after rain. They confirmed that they advise pilgrims just so. There is an easy bus line between Kvam and Varphaugen. Much better for your health...

 

[Purky]

Some heartfelt Dutch and English swear words this morning. My left achilles tendon is acting up. I made it to Oppdal very carefully, did some shopping and found a bank for cash money.

To the complex of Imi-Stølen was another matter. I basically limped uphill to the grounds of the hotel/camping where I am now weighing my options. Took some paracetamol and will see what that will do in the next hour.

Either I'll stay here for some rest (but by doing so will probably lose an extra day in Trondheim before my flight next Monday), or the pills kick in and I'll be able to walk some more today. No surprise that I much prefer the second option.

But, as the man at the reception of Imi-Stølen said: "It's a long way to be limping."

 

[Turga]

That is bad news! I don’t mean to sound discouraging, but the same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago and I haven’t been able to walk since.

Hopefully your case is of a more benign nature – I wish you the very best.

 

[ChristianSdeM]

Thank you Purky for a brilliant travelogue for this pilgrim way - I am following you regularly. I hope your injury is not serious.
I would be really grateful if at some point you could share your packing list - I note your tent is a Terra Nova Laser Competition which I had shortlisted myself. Which model is it?

 

[epona2011]

Purky - your messages are keeping me going here so I really hope you recover. It's been a great journey from this reader's perspective and hope it's been twice as good for you. Will be very sorry when it ends I had same problem a few years ago and although I have no medical qualifications, ice packs and anti-inflammatories might be better than paracetamol.

 

[Purky]

Day 15, Plastoggo (Driva) - Havdal Gjesteheim

It's on moments like these that I am so glad that I almost never take any pills. I like to think that it heightens the efficacy of medicine. The paracetamol kicked in and made the pain so much more manageable that it was almost miraculous. And I walked.

I was also lucky with the route of today. Just after Imi-Stølen I walked at least 4 km on a comfortabele and pretty grass path, after that it was mostly level grusvei. As you can imagine this helped to maintain a natural gait, without the need to compensate and maybe also injure something else.

And frankly speaking, the stage was also quite boring, so I spent a lot of time musing about how lucky I am. For one that I have a body that is able to take the punishment of the last two weeks, without producing much more than a few blisters, a groaning achilles and some muscle ache.

In that sense an introspective day. Not a lot of interesting photos, I'm afraid, because I wasn't in the mood. I was walking. And I kept walking, past Langklopp Fjellgård (didn't like the look of it), past pilgrims hostel Hæverstølen (fully booked) and ended up in Havdal Gjesteheim.

And wouldn't you know it: it's run by a Dutch couple, and the other guests are a large and friendly group of Belgians. I'll be speaking and hearing my native language tonight.

 

[Purky]

I would be really grateful if at some point you could share your packing list - I note your tent is a Terra Nova Laser Competition which I had shortlisted myself. Which model is it?

I bought the Terra Nova secondhand, and from memory it is the '1'. About my packing list: I know I carry about 18 kilos, including food and water. Sleeping bag, 3 seasons from Wilderbeast. Inflatable mat from ThermaRest. Jetboil burner. Rainjacket from Arc'teryx, rain trousers from Decathlon. Medical kit, toiletries. Powerbank from TP-Link, charger and solar charger from Anker. Clothes for heat and cold, and that's about it. Any questions, feel free to ask!

 

[nycwalking]

Day 15, Plastoggo (Driva) - Havdal Gjesteheim

It's on moments like these that I am so glad that I almost never take any pills. I like to think that it heightens the efficacy of medicine. The paracetamol kicked in and made the pain so much more manageable that it was almost miraculous. And I walked.

I was also lucky with the route of today. Just after Imi-Stølen I walked at least 4 km on a comfortabele and pretty grass path, after that it was mostly level grusvei. As you can imagine this helped to maintain a natural gait, without the need to compensate and maybe also injure something else.

And frankly speaking, the stage was also quite boring, so I spent a lot of time musing about how lucky I am. For one that I have a body that is able to take the punishment of the last two weeks, without producing much more than a few blisters, a groaning achilles and some muscle ache.

In that sense an introspective day. Not a lot of interesting photos, I'm afraid, because I wasn't in the mood. I was walking. And I kept walking, past Langklopp Fjellgård (didn't like the look of it), past pilgrims hostel Hæverstølen (fully booked) and ended up in Havdal Gjesteheim.

And wouldn't you know it: it's run by a Dutch couple, and the other guests are a large and friendly group of Belgians. I'll be speaking and hearing my native language tonight.

Glad you’re up and walking.

Really enjoying your posts.

 

[nycwalking]

That is bad news! I don’t mean to sound discouraging, but the same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago and I haven’t been able to walk since.

Hopefully your case is of a more benign nature – I wish you the very best.

Get well soon.

Seriously.

Or the hare wins.

Unseriously!

 

[Purky]

A very good night's sleep, waking up and bumping into an epic breakfast and Achilles isn't groaning anymore but quietly muttering. I must've done something right!

 

[ChristianSdeM]

I bought the Terra Nova secondhand, and from memory it is the '1'. About my packing list: I know I carry about 18 kilos, including food and water. Sleeping bag, 3 seasons from Wilderbeast. Inflatable mat from ThermaRest. Jetboil burner. Rainjacket from Arc'teryx, rain trousers from Decathlon. Medical kit, toiletries. Powerbank from TP-Link, charger and solar charger from Anker. Clothes for heat and cold, and that's about it. Any questions, feel free to ask!

Super summary - thank you!

 

[Purky]

Day 16, Havdal Gjesteheim - Nørgar Voll (Voll)

After breakfast my wife called. I knew something was up, because normally we use Whatsapp to stay in touch when either of us is away. She was seething. Our house had been burgled last night. Occasional theft, quick grab of some stuff. Annoying, but nothing major.

So we figured out what to do, what I could do from Norway (block the bankcards online, as our laptop was gone too) and what she had to do. We ended the call, I blocked the cards and couldn't help feeling she dodged a possible bullit. A break-in can end in other, much worse scenarios.

And then I left Havdal and started walking. It was weird, physically walking in Norway while mentally being at home. Present in two worlds at the same time. On some moments I could have passed a stumped herd of elk and not noticed a thing.

Anyway, very nice walk today, most of it along the river Orkla. Partly along the water, partly at height. A few very beautiful views of the valley, not a lot of asphalt and occasional sunshine as it was cloudy. But also, a first in 16 days, strong winds. It matched the day perfectly: turbulent.

I ended up in Nørgar Voll, a gem of a B & B. Joar, the owner, showed me around with infectious pride. A tall man, wiry and strong, and with that slighty dry, formal English they speak in Norway.

He also showed me and another guest around in the local museum/pilgrim information center, an old shop that closed in 1971 and has remained as it was then. And Joar had something else up his sleeve too: a tour of the inside of Rennebu church. One of four remaining Y-shaped churches in Norway. I seem to be the guest of the main man in Voll.

 

[VNwalking]

Beautiful photos as usual, @Purky - and that church looks special. Thanks again for the ongoing sharing.

I'm sorry that burglary happened; I hope that your wife is OK and that things taken find their way back to you. Thank God it was not worse.

 

[Purky]

Beautiful photos as usual, @Purky - and that church looks special. Thanks again for the ongoing sharing.

I'm sorry that burglary happened; I hope that your wife is OK and that things taken find their way back to you. Thank God it was not worse.

I don't care about the stolen stuff. I'm just so relieved it was a quick in-and-out job instead of a full blown home invasion...

 

[Earthmothercrystal]

I love following your pilgrimage. Thank you so much for sharing. I’m sorry about the burglary. It’s unsettling to have one’s space invaded like that.

 

[dougfitz]

And Joar had something else up his sleeve too: a tour of the inside of Rennebu church.

This brings back wonderful memories. I walked from Meslo Gard on a Sunday, and arrived at this church in time for the Pilgrim Mass they hold each year. The Pilgrim Priest from Hjerkinn celebrated the Mass and the large group of pilgrims walking with him attended. I had not contemplated how much something as apparently simple as the triangular layout would make to the symbolism of the service. I has also not contemplated the effect the wonderful generosity of the parishioners who had provided a morning tea after the service would have on me.

It was truly a wonderful day.

 

[Purky]

Just learned that a couple of days ago a 70 year old Austrian peregrina couldn't make it anymore on the stage towards Ryphusan. She was stuck on the Dovrefjell without a tent, unable to walk any further.

Fortunately she was expected by some pilgrims (several of whom I've met) who were able to call her. When they found out that the lady couldn't move anymore, a rescue party from Ryphusan was started. Including the Norwegian Red Cross and the police.

The search started at 22:00 and they found her at 01:30. She didn't know that pressing her iPhone button five times would generate a SOS message, including gps-coördinates. She is currently being looked after in Oppdal and is doing well, as far as I know.

Does put things in perspective, doesn't it. Know your limits, be prepared and above all, respect the mountains.

 

[Former member 49149]

Purky, I am just catching up now, really. Thankfully your attitude has kept you level, and also it seems that your wife has not been harmed, except maybe emotionally... glad also that the Austrian lady was checked up on and is safe. Thanks for your posts, it is great to follow your ramblings. I admire your energy and commitment to post. Keep safe and strong.

 

[VNwalking]

It is heartwarming to read this story and to know that the Austrian lady is safe and recovering, no small thanks to the vigilance of fellow walkers.

Know your limits, be prepared and above all, respect the mountains.

And if you want to walk this particular route, don't wait too long or you might regret it.

May you have good walking today, @Purky!

 

[Purky]

Day 17, Nørgar Voll - Meldal Bygdemuseum

I had trouble getting started today. My legs felt heavy, my feet were dragging and my mood wasn't top-notch. Maybe some sort of backlash from the news of the burglary and the ensuing commotion, plus my argument with Achilles. Or maybe just fatigue.

At Ry I was so fed up with myself that I sat down at the (closed) Pilegrims Kafetaria and decided to get a grip on my funk and get it together. Had breakfast, brewed some coffee and made a plan for where to end today.

And it actually worked. Felt better and walked better afterwards. Even Achilles was softly humming along, in tune with my steps. I enjoyed the massive dragonflies whizzing past, and was glad the sun appeared. It started out nippy and overcast this morning.

I arrived early in Meldal, at about three. So I first went to check out the Meldal Bygdemuseum, where the hostel is also located. It is one of those unmanned huts, where you have to call for the code to the lock. But my calls and text went unanswered. I sighed, decided to put up my tent next to it later and went shopping for dinner at the Spar supermarket, which is nearby.

And that visit made an otherwise indeterminate day a good day. First I found a still hot rotisserie chicken, and I bought half of it. Also a chunk of Brie and some bananas, talk about funny cravings. But the clincher was the checkout girl.

She was very obviously an opinionated teenager, with long hair dyed way too blond and by the looks of it she had done it herself, in a hurry. We started up a conversation over my need for a plastic bag, and she then asked me how on earth I had ended up in Meldal. Because "this place is in the middle of nowhere. It's like a black hole or something! Nothing, and I mean nothing, ever happens here." Ah, the tragedy of youth.

The smile in my eyes reached her quick, because after one look at each other we both broke down in helpless giggles. I wished her all the best and left the Spar with happy tears and shaking shoulders. Yes, a good day.

 

[Purky]

Day 18, Meldal Bygdemuseum - Gapahuk Snøton (Snøtonsætra)

I felt a little restless last night and this morning. I couldn't get a clear idea about my last three stages to Trondheim, and I kept looking at the possibilities that kept blankly staring back at me. I was getting a little frustrated.

Until something clicked. I grabbed my guide and looked up the description of one of the stages to come. And there it was. Mention of a Gapahuk, a structure of three walls and a roof, right about where I wanted to find shelter for tonight. No mention of it in the accommodation listing of both my guide and the PDF from pilegrimsleden.no, that's why I missed it in the first place.

Feeling very pleased it now took me five minutes to come up with a nice schedule for the coming days. Problem solved! And off I went. First past Olskastet, a replica of a sælehus, and in use as an unmanned hut. Shortly after that I reached Løkken Verk, an old mining village that has been here since 1652. The mines were closed in 1987, but the village remained.

I found the supermarket quickly, for a cold coke and some chocolate, and figured I'd walk a little further for a nice bench to take a break. I keep doing that, get the scale of Norwegian villages wrong, because after about a minute I was already out of Løkken Verk. Ah well, I found an electricity box to sit on.

Then a stretch of 11 km with asphalt, grusvei and a little forest. Lunch at Svorkmo Skytterhus, the local gunrange. From there a 6 km hop to my Gapahuk. In which I found a giant sofa. Guess I'll be sleeping on the couch tonight...

 

[dougfitz]

Then a stretch of 11 km with asphalt, grusvei and a little forest. Lunch at Svorkmo Skytterhus, the local gunrange. From there a 6 km hop to my Gapahuk. In which I found a giant sofa. Guess I'll be sleeping on the couch tonight...

That sounds like a marvelous find. I recall that I also found those final few days difficult to plan because of the many choices. I can recommend getting the 'ferry' across to Sundet Gard and staying there. They have recreated a wonderful sense of old world charm and provide wonderful service. That said, you are doing slightly longer distances each day than I was doing, and may well be pushing on beyond where I stayed (Skuan and Sundet Gard). In any case, you are now close, and my thoughts will be with you over the next couple of days of your pilgrimage.

 

[Purky]

That sounds like a marvelous find. I recall that I also found those final few days difficult to plan because of the many choices. I can recommend getting the 'ferry' across to Sundet Gard and staying there. They have recreated a wonderful sense of old world charm and provide wonderful service. That said, you are doing slightly longer distances each day than I was doing, and may well be pushing on beyond where I stayed (Skuan and Sundet Gard). In any case, you are now close, and my thoughts will be with you over the next couple of days of your pilgrimage.

I'll be taking a break in Skaun today and end up in the vicinity of Sundet Gård. But there is also the matter of budget: I might opt for the Øysand camping, so that I have a little more money to spend in Trondheim. On a decent meal, for instance.

In any case, I want to finish today at a place with a shower. I haven't had one in two days and I'm getting self-conscious, to say the least...

 

[dougfitz]

I'll be taking a break in Skaun today and end up in the vicinity of Sundet Gård. But there is also the matter of budget: I might opt for the Øysand camping, so that I have a little more money to spend in Trondheim. On a decent meal, for instance.

In any case, I want to finish today at a place with a shower. I haven't had one in two days and I'm getting self-conscious, to say the least...

I thought you might want to push on now that you are so close. As I said earlier, my thoughts are with you.

 

[Purky]

Day 19, Gapahuk Snøton - Øysand Camping

The best night I ever spent on a couch. An undisturbed full seven hours sleep. And to make matters even better, the first four kilometers of the day were absolutely beautiful. The trail leads you through a peat marsh, with springy ground and fluffy plants. The early morning sun flooded everything with light, so the dew glittered everywhere.

The rest of the day wasn't bad either. Lots of forest paths, the pretty little church of Skaun and fabulous weather again. It's like I have a personal weather bubble that travels along with me to keep everything sunny and dry. I can't believe how lucky I am.

The end of today, approaching Buvika and walking through it towards Øysand Camping, was a bit of a compulsary chore. Asphalt and an uninspiring town. The good things were a supermarket along the route and the camping coming nearer and nearer. I so longed for a shower.

Put up my tent, stuffed my dirty clothes in the washing machine and hit the sanitary block. Bliss... Also met a Dutch camper who had travelled three weeks in Sweden and was now waiting for his brother to arrive for a another week in Norway. Had a beer together with some chips and had a relaxed Dutch chat.

From here Trondheim is only a day away, about 25 km. I already made reservations for two nights at the Nidaros Pilegrimsgård. I hear it is busy up ahead, with a large group of 18 claiming a lot of beds, leaving other pilgrims miffed. I was glad to receive a confirmation.

 

[VNwalking]

All good things come to an end, alas.
It's a relief that your achilles is holding out. And this is enviable:

It's like I have a personal weather bubble that travels along with me to keep everything sunny and dry. I can't believe how lucky I am.

The closest I will ever come to this walk is this, far far way away. So thanks for bringing us along, @Purky:

 

[Purky]

It's a relief that your achilles is holding out.

Oh, yeah! I completely forgot! Achilles is not only holding out, he's been a very good boy. Yesterday still a bit grindy, but already less painful, today no trouble whatsoever. Not a dent in the fender.

 

[VNwalking]

Oh, yeah! I completely forgot!

That you could forget about it? Woo hoo!
God tur, @Purky!

 

[SabsP]

@Purky : it has been such a joy reading your daily entries.
So much eye for detail , very thoughtful also and wonderful pictures to match.

Enjoy Trondheim and treat yourself to something nice ( whatever that is ).

 

[ivar]

It has been great following your journey to Trondheim @Purky Enjoy your arrival and trip home.

 

[Purky]

Made it!

More tonight.

 

[Purky]

treat yourself to something nice

A regular bed! With clean sheets! And towels! I already lovingly made my bed, just after I checked in. What luxury...

 

[Purky]

Day 20, Øysand Camping - Nidaros Pilegrimsgård

I've walked almost three weeks and my only beef was that I haven't seen any wildlife with a bit of size to it. I was hoping for at least a deer, or maybe even an elk or a glimpse of a musk ox. But nothing. Zip.

Until this morning. I was maybe 15 minutes out of Øysand Camping when I spotted something that I thought was a cat. After it was done having a pee on a farms immaculate lawn (many of those in Norway, I've noticed), it turned its head and I saw it was in fact a badger!

I stifled an exited yelp, but he had already seen me and made a run for it. Quick on their feet, badgers. I saw him again after rounding a corner a few minutes later, sniffing out a box in someone's yard, and he took off again. Probably annoyed at me. So finally, wildlife!

With 14 km to go I had a short break and when I was done ran into two pilgrims, one of whom I'd met two days earlier. We teamed up for the last leg into Trondheim. With only 5 km to go one of my companions (with bad knees, I heard later) spotted a bus and was on it before I could blink. He had walked the Olav's Way before and wasn't looking for an Olav Letter.

That left me with my new buddy from Germany and we decided to go traditional. Follow the waymarkings and see where it would lead us. There was a lot of giggling involved (and just a little gnashing of teeth) because we could see the cathedral popping up all the time, but were constantly lead around it.

Finally we were allowed by the signs to enter the grounds of Nidaros cathedral, but not before we checked in Nidaros Pilegrimsgård. I'll be staying two nights, and enjoy the last day of the St. Olav's Festival. There also seems to be a foodtruck festival and a beer festival, so we'll see what happens tonight.