I love Galicia, but it has the ugliest towns (on the Camino Francés)

[jefferyonthecamino]

Except for Santiago of course

 

[Gailsie]

I can't remember much of the towns but I loved the scenery. I had a hard time dealing with the cows..t on the path on the first day or so, that turned me off.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

"Are you having a laugh!? Is he/she having a laugh?"

 

[StuartM]

I remember a couple of big towns that I didnt think were overly impressive. Melide, cant remember the other. Bit of a shock to the system after days of rural walking.

There are uglier towns. Some of the heavily industrialised towns and developments on the Salvador are far uglier. I remember getting to the top of the big hill after Mieres and looking out thinking this is why I got out of civil engineering.

 

[t2andreo]

The Camino without the cow pies would simply be another long hike... They are one of the great cultural symbols of the countryside.

I look forward to the smell of fresh manure in the morning. It brings back memories. I just try earnestly NOT to step in them...

I leave for the airport to fly to Paris in 2 hours. NOW I am excited...

 

[C clearly]

I loved the farm paths - cow pies, mud, veggie gardens, birdsong!

 

[SabsP]

Most beautiful towns on the Ingles!!!! Pontedeume and Betanzos in particular. Smaller towns like Neda and Fene are very attractive too.

 

[tyrrek]

I don't suppose many would consider Melide or Arzua to be the most pleasing towns on the eye. That said, I had my best ever menu peregrino in Arzua, so I have some fond memories. The countryside with its mists, cows, stone cottages definitely win on the Frances at least.

 

[Rambler]

O'Cebreiro? How can you say that is ugly! It was my favorite place!
To each his own...

Rambler

 

[santiago_67]

The Camino without the cow pies would simply be another long hike... They are one of the great cultural symbols of the countryside.

I look forward to the smell of fresh manure in the morning. It brings back memories. I just try earnestly NOT to step in them...

I leave for the airport to fly to Paris in 2 hours. NOW I am excited...

My friends and I were just sure there was a cow walking the Camino and it stayed ahead of us all the way to Santiago leaving us fresh cow pies to let us know that it was in the lead.

 

[indyinmaine]

Cow pies and nondescript towns are not nearly as significant as who is walking. Yes, the towns lacked individual character; but there were still people worth talking to and patches of grass (wet as it was!) to sit on.

 

[Magwood]

Melide was full of life in the midst of a fiesta when we passed through and it was fabulous. The stone villages in Galicia were the absolute highlight of my camino and I think I could write a book on the many and varied horreos. I loved the area.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I know exactly what you refer to -- not the charming stone villages, but the ugly newer builds, often two or three storeys over a bricked-up storefront, all of it so cheaply built it is already sagging and streaked with rust and coming to pieces within a year or two. Or a half-finished concrete skeleton, covered in weeds and litter.
This is so common throughout the province there is a popular nickname for the "architectural movement:"El Feismo Gallego! (The Galician Ugly). It is most apparent in small cities like Sarria, Monforte de Lemos, Ourense, Lalín, or Ferrol -- just take a look at any Gallego bus station for an institutional example, or any Gallego church built in the 20th century. Gallego architects have a lot to answer for.

 

[StuartM]

As an architect, Rebekah, I have to disagree with you... most architects between the 60's and 90's had a lot to answer for Especially the public/civil service ones. Not just the Gallegos. But, also as an architect, it's the guy who signs the cheques that makes ugly architecture.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Yeah Jeffery, you're right… you prolly should just stay home
::ne more bed for me!:::

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Yeah Jeffery, you're right… you prolly should just stay home
::ne more bed for me!:::

It certainly is galling that the locals would allow buildings to deteriorate, and let their livestock get in the way of real Pilgrims. What next? Commercialize the Camino by selling pilgrims coffee and food? Galling (and ugly).

 

[KinkyOne]

Most beautiful towns on the Ingles!!!! Pontedeume and Betanzos in particular. Smaller towns like Neda and Fene are very attractive too.

I think the OP was about "smell(er)", not "small(er)" villages/towns

 

[obinjatoo]

Whatevs... It was a privilege to walk and talk and visit and experience a place I had never been to before. What a terrible first world problem to be turned off by the local city (un)planning.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Can we get more information from you on the ugly, and how to avoid it, here?

The Camino de Santiago in Galicia. Information about the French Way
By Jeffery Barrera
A guidebook written by a Spanish pilgrim for pilgrims from abroad
Description
This guidebook covers the last 151 kilometres (roughly 100 miles) to Santiago on the French route. Or in other words, it covers the section of the Camino in Galicia, starting on the border with Castile and ending in Santiago de Compostela.

The guidebook is organised in eight chapters that correspond to the commonly suggested daily stages to be covered on foot. There is also a final chapter for the city of Santiago de Compostela, a general introductory chapter and an annex on general Spanish culture.
Each chapter describes a departure town and a town of arrival, the distance to be covered on each stage and information about the villages, hamlets and other points of interest you will walk by. Each chapter also has a series of miscellaneous information snippets that can be historical, religious, artistic, or anything else related to Spanish and Galician culture and/or customs.

This is a guidebook that will help you understand and appreciate Spanish idiosyncrasy, usually the most intriguing, and at times frustrating, part of a trip for travellers.
This is also a guidebook that provides insider insight and information about the Camino; information on where you are walking, why you are looking at things, what you are eating and how to make the most of your experience; all that stuff that is not readily available to travellers from abroad.

 

[Bernard duffy]

The Camino without the cow pies would simply be another long hike... They are one of the great cultural symbols of the countryside.

I look forward to the smell of fresh manure in the morning. It brings back memories. I just try earnestly NOT to step in them...

I leave for the airport to fly to Paris in 2 hours. NOW I am excited...

Buen camino ))

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I add this to temper what I said above, about "feismo..."
The Camino de Santiago is a holy path and a pilgrimage, not a scenic tour. If we want to wander in spectacular, only-pretty places, we´ll have to go to Disneyland, where everything is pre-planned and cast in plastic. Galicia is a real place, populated by real people... some of whom have tastes in buildings that are less-than agreeable to Almighty ME! If I´m a pilgrim, I´ll just have to take the ugly with the pretty. Just like in Real Life!