I Need starting advice from Porto

[Old Kiwi]

I am doing the Camino Portuguese in June 2020. I plan to start in Porto and walk to Redonella on the inland route, bus back to Porto and then head out again on the coastal route up to Redonella and then continue on to Santiago. I am looking at doing this instead of starting from Lisbon. Is this a good idea? I believe the first 13k or so out of Porto is through an industrial area and there has been advice to get a taxi or bus through that area. Where is the best place to bus or taxi to in order to start walking? Do you think I should start in Lisbon and not double back to Porto. Would I be missing out on something special?

 

[Pilgy]

I am doing the Camino Portuguese in June 2020. I plan to start in Porto and walk to Redonella on the inland route, bus back to Porto and then head out again on the coastal route up to Redonella and then continue on to Santiago. I am looking at doing this instead of starting from Lisbon. Is this a good idea? I believe the first 13k or so out of Porto is through an industrial area and there has been advice to get a taxi or bus through that area. Where is the best place to bus or taxi to in order to start walking? Do you think I should start in Lisbon and not double back to Porto. Would I be missing out on something special?

I think this is a great idea! The central and and littoral route are quite different and though I have not walked from Lisbon, I think I'd prefer to do what you are suggesting.

 

[JoroAtanasof]

I am doing the Camino Portuguese in June 2020. I plan to start in Porto and walk to Redonella on the inland route, bus back to Porto and then head out again on the coastal route up to Redonella and then continue on to Santiago. I am looking at doing this instead of starting from Lisbon. Is this a good idea? I believe the first 13k or so out of Porto is through an industrial area and there has been advice to get a taxi or bus through that area. Where is the best place to bus or taxi to in order to start walking? Do you think I should start in Lisbon and not double back to Porto. Would I be missing out on something special?

I think this is a great idea! The central and and littoral route are quite different and though I have not walked from Lisbon, I think I'd prefer to do what you are suggesting.

If you choose to start the costal , the section is not so industrial but you can still get transport to Matoshinos . insted doing costal and inland again , did you consider to take spiritual variant before Santiago and after Santiago continue walking to Muxia and Finistera ( extra 4 days ) ?

 

[Pilgy]

If you choose to start the costal , the section is not so industrial but you can still get transport to Matoshinos . insted doing costal and inland again , did you consider to take spiritual variant before Santiago and after Santiago continue walking to Muxia and Finistera ( extra 4 days ) ?

Didn't find the route out of Porto anything but enjoyable! And YES the Variant Spiritual is not to be missed!

 

[amancio]

I would suggest instead of going through Vilarinhos (inner route), just go down river Douro all the way to the sea, then follow the coast to Vila do Conde; here, you can decide whether you want to go along the coast (signposted to Esposende) or inland (perfectly signposted to Sao Pedro de Rates).

That way, you avoid the nasty urban bit of coming out of Porto, the walk by the river and along the coast is a bliss!

 

[roving_rufus]

I don't think personally I would enjoy walking towards Santiago then to taking a bus back to Porto to try another route. I enjoyed the caminho from Lisbon as it passed through some interesting places (some skip the walk out of Lisbon and start at Santarem) including Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra, Roman ruins etc. From Porto I walked out along the river and up the coast to Caminha then inland along river to Valença and up to SdeC. The coastal route was nice but if I was doing it again 2 days could have got my fix of water walking out from porto along river and coast to Vila do Conde and then moving into the more inland route.

 

[mmmmartin]

We walked from Porto along the coast to vila do conde then inland, which was great. The walk out of Porto is industrial, but if you fly into Porto you can walk from the airport. I'd you have any time left I suggest using it to go to Muxia and Finisterre which are fabulous and walking through lovely countryside, or you can get the bus.

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

You CAN walk from the airport if you want, but then you miss out on seeing Porto which is a wonderful city. You need 2 days at least to see it! Then I recommend taking the Metro northwards from Trinidade to Vila da Conde, thus saving time after your stop in Porto.

 

[ChristianSdeM]

You CAN walk from the airport if you want, but then you miss out on seeing Porto which is a wonderful city. You need 2 days at least to see it! Then I recommend taking the Metro northwards from Trinidade to Vila da Conde, thus saving time after your stop in Porto.

Yes we did the same last May. The Metro also can get you to the coast at Matoshinos to start the Littoral, if you don't walk down the Douro and 'round the corner'.

 

[PK Smit]

Walk all the way along the river towards the ocean and then turn north to Vila de Conde, very well way marked and great views.

 

[TatiLie]

Another vote for the Variante Espiritual from me!
I didn't walk from Porto but when we were there we took a tram (old style tram) by the river Douro from Porto to the Foz, and then had a walk there for a couple of hours up Avenida do Brasil. In June there might be a long queue but the journey is lovely and a great start for your walk.

Info on the tram line 1 https://porto-north-portugal.com/porto-guide/porto-trams-tram-guide.html

Buen Camino!

 

[linkster]

I took the metro to Matoshinos, and started walking from there in May.

Here is the Porto Metro Map.

• São Bento to Trindade (yellow line D toward Hospital São João 2 stops).
• Then switch Trindade to Mercado (blue line A toward Senhor de Matoshinos ~16 stops). 1 stop before the end of the line.

Bom caminho!

 

[steve 217]

I and my brothers did the Portugese camino in March 2018 , we started in Porto and cycled out along the estuary following the sea .

Apart from the weather it was suprisingly colder in Portugal then the Uk ,the route was great we passed lots of bars and surfers along a dedicated cycle path and after montisinhos we got on the boardwalk which was reminiscent of California.

Its a great route crossing into spain at Tui and the cast iron capital of Spain Redondela will always be fixed in my memory as we had way too much to drink and we all had appalling hangovers the next day .
The people we met were lovely and my brothers dietary needs hes a strict vegan were accommodated by really lovely cooks who simly allowed him into there kitchens whilst he pointed out what he could and could not eat .
I remember there were some industrial areas but further on ,the 30 k from Porto other then the desalination plant you pass was some of the nicest scenery.
Good luck have a great trip Buen Camino.

 

[Elle Bieling]

Hello @Old Kiwi. I may be the only one to suggest that you walk the entire way, each route from Porto. As a pilgrim who walks every step of the way I found this to be quite rewarding, as I have done both. The Senda Litoral on the first day out of Porto I found to be so peaceful along the Douro river. See my day fifteen (I started in Lisbon) on my blog for lots of photos of how it really is! For the Central Route, see this day fifteen for the many photos, also to "see" how it really is. Again, I did not find this route to be all that "industrial." One has to walk into and out of cities on all pilgrimage routes, and yes, cobblestone is part of the whole Portuguese experience. I take what comes.
Happy planning, and may you have a wonderful Camino!

 

[karlyk]

I just finished the walk, Lisbon to SdC in November. We also skipped the part out of Porto, on the recommendation of locals there who had done the walk before. We took a train, which was quite easy and cheap (maybe 4 euros?). We looked on our phone for the stop we wanted that was right along the Camino trail. I don't know the name but will ask my friend, as he handled this piece, not me. I think taking the train would be cheaper than a taxi and easier than a bus.

Regarding your suggested route: I said, as soon as we walked on past Porto, that a loop would be better than what we did, Lisbon to SdC. I imagined starting in Porto, going to SdC via the inland route, then looping back to Porto taking the Costal route. I personally wouldn't want to loop back to Porto from Redonella by bus to then do the coastal route. That would feel, for me, like interrupting my flow. But that's just me. I can see how (as I suggested) heading off from SdC to head down to Porto might not seem really great either, because a finish in Porto is somewhat anti-climactic compared to a finish in SdC. That's going to be a personal feeling that's different for everyone.

Regarding Lisbon to Porto, I'd say you're not missing much. Here's my summary notes on that stretch:

- Very long days
- No pilgrim office in Lisbon meant there was very little support for the journey. The Cathedral, which we stopped into twice, was not helpful in the least. They sold the maps (not full guidebook) and could offer no advice/ wisdom for the journey.
- The trip from Lisbon to Porto isn't particularly beautiful. There's some nice cities (Tomar, Coimbra, Ponte de Lima, & Valenca), but the stretches from the towns are often on paved roads and not always on green nature paths. Plenty of Eucalyptus forests though. If you're deeply effected by your physical surroundings and need lots of stunning nature, the CP from Lisbon to Porto would not be for you. If you can focus on your inner journey and not let your surroundings change your mood, then you won't have an issue with the route.
- We saw almost no pilgrims Lisbon- Porto. Maybe 3 in a day, but not every day.

My full note on this Camino route can be found here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/lisbon-to-santiago-october.64544/#post-801606

Hope that's helpful! Bom caminho!

 

[jimmyc]

If you want to experience the real Portugal walk from Lisbon. If you are more interested in pretty scenery walk from Porto.

 

[Old Kiwi]

A big thank you to all who have given information so far. There is more to this than I thought. I have a lot to think about. I will have to investigate everything everyone has said. I will have to get some detailed maps so that I know what I am looking at. JoroAtanasof I don't think I will be going on to Muxia and Fisterre as I did that earlier this year, but if I end up with lots of time after reaching Santiago I might just walk direct to Fisterre as I have not done the bit from where the path divides to Fisterre and I just love Fisterre.

 

[David Tallan]

I believe the first 13k or so out of Porto is through an industrial area and there has been advice to get a taxi or bus through that area.

I have heard the same about the walk north out of the city on the Central and Coastal routes (although others have said it is not so bad). I can't speak from experience as I took the Senda Litoral out of Porto, following the river to the ocean and walking north along the shore to Vila do Conde and then heading inland to the Central. That route is quite nice and requires no use of a bus or taxi.

 

[linkster]

@Old Kiwi Here is a hyperlink to Google Maps with the routes.

 

[Old Kiwi]

A big thanks to those who have given websites, maps, day 15 etc they are of great help. After looking at all of the above my plan is now as follows. Start at Porto, follow the Litoral to Vila do Conde and change to the Coastal to Redondella. Bus back to Porto and then follow the Central to Santiago. I have ordered a Brieleys Camino Portugues and might have to fine tune things after reading that.

 

[Karl Oz]

Hi there, I walked from Porto 2 years ago and posted my thoughts on the forum. For what it is worth, here is an excerpt relating to leaving Porto, which I anticipate is still relevant:

"I chose to walk out of Porto through the northern suburbs, and consequently spent the first two days on concrete footpaths and granite cobblestones, The result was blisters and pain in the feet, knees and hips. I had never had first day blisters before, and never any joint pain at all. The third day was mostly on only slightly more forgiving asphalt, with a few dirt paths. So for what it is worth, I recommend taking either the metro as far north as possible, or utilising the coastal route. There is nothing very interesting to see walking through the suburbs and satellite communities. You will also avoid some frankly dangerous stretches where you are obliged to share the road with traffic. Twice I was caught on a road bordered by high stone walls, with only a very narrow drainage culvert providing any safety. Each time I sought the culvert and pressed myself against the stone wall while a truck passed by barely 18 inches from my face. There is no place for traffic and pedestrians on the same thoroughfare, so I hope some effort will be made by the local community to somehow re-route sections of the Way in this area."

Anyway, have fun whichever path you choose.

 

[Sha-Ron]

I am doing the Camino Portuguese in June 2020. I plan to start in Porto and walk to Redonella on the inland route, bus back to Porto and then head out again on the coastal route up to Redonella and then continue on to Santiago. I am looking at doing this instead of starting from Lisbon. Is this a good idea? I believe the first 13k or so out of Porto is through an industrial area and there has been advice to get a taxi or bus through that area. Where is the best place to bus or taxi to in order to start walking? Do you think I should start in Lisbon and not double back to Porto. Would I be missing out on something special?

Hi! John Brierleys guide offers 4 options for getting out of Porto. To avoid too much strain on pavements and cobblestones we took option D: the metro to Vilar de Pinheiro. To get a real pilgrim experience we stayed at Sao Pedro de Rates, one of the first hostels. It has a lovely courtyard. We had started our Camino in Coimbra, an old university town. The way between Coimbra and Porto was very quiet and there were always ample beds available. Bom Camino!

 

[bobbogram]

I am doing the Camino Portuguese in June 2020. I plan to start in Porto and walk to Redonella on the inland route, bus back to Porto and then head out again on the coastal route up to Redonella and then continue on to Santiago. I am looking at doing this instead of starting from Lisbon. Is this a good idea?

Having completed two Caminos, El Norte and Portuguese from Lisbon as well as portion of the French Camino west out of Geneva and the Via Francigena ten days going East out of Canterbury and several days going south out of San Bernardo, they all have their there own charms.

Lisbon to Porto was extremely interesting with the Knights Templar castle in Tomar and a side trip to Fatima. Coimbra is the former capital of Portugal, built on an elevated area with the cathedral and university overlooking the countryside. (Knee issues? The escalator is on the backside.) Stumbling onto crumbling defensive barriers to defend against invaders or the marble wall commemorating the (temporary) merging of Spain and Portugal, and other surprises are plentiful.

i returned the next year, flying into Porto directly, heading off to the north. I had spent three days in Porto at the end of last year’s trek. I walked along the shoreline for the first half en route to SdC but moved inland, where you left a windier path for a warmer path. With an open mind and a pair of hiking shoes one-half larger than usual, everyday is good.

 

[Thornley]

. I plan to start in Porto

Spend an extra day or two in this wonderful city.

A big thanks to those who have given websites, maps, day 15 etc they are of great help. After looking at all of the above my plan is now as follows

Change them
We walked the 10km to Mastoshinos along the river and enjoy fresh fish in the streets.
This is where every person who lives in Poerto dines.
It's the fish wholesalers , no retain until you dine out. Enjoy the day there as many pilgrims do.

We made the mistake and we have completed 2 Portuguese of not turning LEFT in Pontevedra and going the Spiritual way.
We also loved turning LEFT [ ferry ] at Caminha and waling the coast to Vigo.
A Guarda, Oía, Baiona etc.

 

[Charlotte Helbig]

I don't think personally I would enjoy walking towards Santiago then to taking a bus back to Porto to try another route. I enjoyed the caminho from Lisbon as it passed through some interesting places (some skip the walk out of Lisbon and start at Santarem) including Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra, Roman ruins etc. From Porto I walked out along the river and up the coast to Caminha then inland along river to Valença and up to SdeC. The coastal route was nice but if I was doing it again 2 days could have got my fix of water walking out from porto along river and coast to Vila do Conde and then moving into the more inland route.

Ditto!!!! There are so many wonderful things to see starting in Lisbon that are missed otherwise. We loved it!

 

[Tony Walsh]

I am doing the Camino Portuguese in June 2020. I plan to start in Porto and walk to Redonella on the inland route, bus back to Porto and then head out again on the coastal route up to Redonella and then continue on to Santiago. I am looking at doing this instead of starting from Lisbon. Is this a good idea? I believe the first 13k or so out of Porto is through an industrial area and there has been advice to get a taxi or bus through that area. Where is the best place to bus or taxi to in order to start walking? Do you think I should start in Lisbon and not double back to Porto. Would I be missing out on something special?

We are doing the coastal route from Porto to Santiago De Compostela starting in early June 2020 (we did the Camino Frances in 2017 and part of the Via Francigena in 2018). We are planning to take the metro to Matoshinos, and then started walking from there. Suggest you look at the John Brierly book for suggestions.

 

[JudiJay]

We spent several days in Porto before we started on the coastal / Senda Littoral route. After getting the Cathedral stamp we took advantage of the glorious May weather and walked along the river to Matosinhos, then caught the metro back for a last night in beautiful Porto. First thing next morning back on the metro to Matosinhos and started 'properly'. By then the rains had come (7 straight days) and we were really pleased to have made what turned out to be a hard wet day shorter. We followed the green arrows from Baiona all along the coast to Vigo. Beautiful (except the road slog into Vigo but I had bronchitis by then after all that damp. Two small regrets: not having more time in Pontevedra and not fitting in the Spiritual Variante. Bom Caminho.

 

[JanetMS]

I am doing the Camino Portuguese in June 2020. I plan to start in Porto and walk to Redonella on the inland route, bus back to Porto and then head out again on the coastal route up to Redonella and then continue on to Santiago. I am looking at doing this instead of starting from Lisbon. Is this a good idea? I believe the first 13k or so out of Porto is through an industrial area and there has been advice to get a taxi or bus through that area. Where is the best place to bus or taxi to in order to start walking? Do you think I should start in Lisbon and not double back to Porto. Would I be missing out on something special?

I chose to walk from Porto a few years back after reading that out of Lisbon you have to navigate industrial areas/highways. In Porto I took the subway out of town for similar reasons to a quiet drop-off spot far out of town (cant recall the name but likely I followed a guide-book hint) and liked it to start immediately in a country-like environment. (The subway was already heavily packed with morning commuters). It was my first camino so I opted to make it as friendly as possible for myself. I thereafter chose the inland route but most of the others at the auberge that evening appreared to have chosen the coastal route

 

[Thornley]

We are planning to take the metro to Matoshinos, and then started walking from there.

Don't know where you live Tony but do not eat in Porto and then walk past Matoshinos.
The best meals we have had on any Camino in France and Spain in a decade were there.

 

[Northernlights]

My s

A big thank you to all who have given information so far. There is more to this than I thought. I have a lot to think about. I will have to investigate everything everyone has said. I will have to get some detailed maps so that I know what I am looking at. JoroAtanasof I don't think I will be going on to Muxia and Fisterre as I did that earlier this year, but if I end up with lots of time after reaching Santiago I might just walk direct to Fisterre as I have not done the bit from where the path divides to Fisterre and I just love Fisterre.
[/QUOTE

my son and I walked the Portugués way this year, we started in Lisbon, and quickly realized it was not for us.I had walked the French way a few years before, and lovedthe ‘pilgrim experience’ so after 2 days wemadethe decision to bus up to Porto, it was definitely the right decision for us! We really enjoyed Porto to Santiago

 

[Yankeebelle]

I just finished the walk, Lisbon to SdC in November. We also skipped the part out of Porto, on the recommendation of locals there who had done the walk before. We took a train, which was quite easy and cheap (maybe 4 euros?). We looked on our phone for the stop we wanted that was right along the Camino trail. I don't know the name but will ask my friend, as he handled this piece, not me. I think taking the train would be cheaper than a taxi and easier than a bus.

Regarding your suggested route: I said, as soon as we walked on past Porto, that a loop would be better than what we did, Lisbon to SdC. I imagined starting in Porto, going to SdC via the inland route, then looping back to Porto taking the Costal route. I personally wouldn't want to loop back to Porto from Redonella by bus to then do the coastal route. That would feel, for me, like interrupting my flow. But that's just me. I can see how (as I suggested) heading off from SdC to head down to Porto might not seem really great either, because a finish in Porto is somewhat anti-climactic compared to a finish in SdC. That's going to be a personal feeling that's different for everyone.

Regarding Lisbon to Porto, I'd say you're not missing much. Here's my summary notes on that stretch:

- Very long days
- No pilgrim office in Lisbon meant there was very little support for the journey. The Cathedral, which we stopped into twice, was not helpful in the least. They sold the maps (not full guidebook) and could offer no advice/ wisdom for the journey.
- The trip from Lisbon to Porto isn't particularly beautiful. There's some nice cities (Tomar, Coimbra, Ponte de Lima, & Valenca), but the stretches from the towns are often on paved roads and not always on green nature paths. Plenty of Eucalyptus forests though. If you're deeply effected by your physical surroundings and need lots of stunning nature, the CP from Lisbon to Porto would not be for you. If you can focus on your inner journey and not let your surroundings change your mood, then you won't have an issue with the route.
- We saw almost no pilgrims Lisbon- Porto. Maybe 3 in a day, but not every day.

My full note on this Camino route can be found here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/lisbon-to-santiago-october.64544/#post-801606

Hope that's helpful! Bom caminho!

One correction...Ponte de Lima and Valenca are NORTH of Porto on the Portuguese Central route. And, both are lovely cities to visit.

 

[KJFSophie]

I would suggest instead of going through Vilarinhos (inner route), just go down river Douro all the way to the sea, then follow the coast to Vila do Conde; here, you can decide whether you want to go along the coast (signposted to Esposende) or inland (perfectly signposted to Sao Pedro de Rates).

That way, you avoid the nasty urban bit of coming out of Porto, the walk by the river and along the coast is a bliss!

That's exactly what I did! Just go to the river, keep it always on your left and walk... I found it rather lovely.

 

[Owensr23]

I am doing the Camino Portuguese in June 2020. I plan to start in Porto and walk to Redonella on the inland route, bus back to Porto and then head out again on the coastal route up to Redonella and then continue on to Santiago. I am looking at doing this instead of starting from Lisbon. Is this a good idea? I believe the first 13k or so out of Porto is through an industrial area and there has been advice to get a taxi or bus through that area. Where is the best place to bus or taxi to in order to start walking? Do you think I should start in Lisbon and not double back to Porto. Would I be missing out on something special?

We started in Porto and headed to coast for the first day, the cut in to Rates. Beautiful walk along river and coast. You can shorten first day by taking cable car out of town along river.

2018 Camino Portuguese from Porto

2018jaxcamino.blogspot.com