Leon vs Astorga

Camino2014 · Jul 6, 2014

Hi all,

Currently about 3 days from Leon and wondering about where to take a rest day. We began in Lourdes so this is about our 4th/5th week and we took rest days in both Burgos and Pamplona.

This upcoming rest day will be our last until Santiago and I want it to be peaceful/relaxing but also in an interesting city with lots to see/do.

I know both León and Astorga meet these requirements so I'm just wondering: what are your personal opinions? Where would you take a rest day, León or Astorga?

Thanks a lot.

tpmchugh · Jul 6, 2014

Personally, I would pick Astorga. Leon has lots to see if you want to do the cathedral and museums but it is a big city and as such, the walk out is awful. Many pilgrims take the city bus to Virgen del Camino on the outskirts and walk from there. Astorga is smaller and I felt more relaxed there. The walk out is fairly comfortable as you have already climbed the hill to get there. Ahead of you is a reasonable hill climb but the most awful descent you will find on the camino so I would pick Astorga for resting. My idea of a rest day by the way was to take an early morning train into Leon on a Sunday morning, go to mass in the cathedral and then walk to Virgen and relax in a really good albergue with library, internet cafe, excellent kitchen and large front lawn. It is a very interesting little town as it is a Marian apparition site. Hope that helps in some small way, wish I was with you btw
Buen Camino

wayfarer · Jul 6, 2014

We had our second rest day in Leon, no need to travel much from the old centre near the cathedral. Astorga is also beautiful and manageable so either one would be great.

scruffy1 · Jul 6, 2014

Tpmchugh got it absolutely correct. Leon is a marvelous place lots to do and see, you may find yourself walking almost as much around town as you do as a day on the Camino only with pavement underfoot - not a place to rest. Astorga can be seen in a few hours even if you happily chance on a market day. Do consider the recommendation to ride the city bus out to Virgen del Camino it will save you an hour and a half of hair parlors, garages, furniture emporiums (empori?), gas stations, restaurants and cafe/bars again all on pavement. The bus stop in Virgen is across the street from the Camino can't miss it take the left fork towards Villar de Mazarife and Hospital de Orbigo the right fork leads one back to cursed asphalt.

indyinmaine · Jul 6, 2014

wayfarer said:
We had our second rest day in Leon, no need to travel much from the old centre near the cathedral. Astorga is also beautiful and manageable so either one would be great.

Ditto! If you stay in Leon take the city bus to the end of the line, Virgen del Camino, unless you're a purist! You won't miss a thing. Even from there it's a bit scraggly for about 5 km.

coldweather · Jul 7, 2014

In 2013 I started my spiritual journey in Lourdes and my walking journey in Pamplona. By the time I was where you are (2-3 days out of Leon) I didn't think I could make it all the way to Santiago. I stopped for 2 nights at the Hotel Paris in Leon and it changed my Camino. Hotel Paris in ON the Camino route on the left hand side about 2 blocks before the Cathedral. I recall it was 40 Euro for a single room. Hotel Paris has a pool/spa that is included in your rate. The pool has jets, steam room, waterfall shower, etc. I recall sitting on the edge of the pool letting one of the jets massage my feet for a while. It made a huge difference to stop and give my body some attention. Buen Camino.

StuartM · Jul 8, 2014

I loved Leon, great atmosphere and fun at night. I dont know if I'd choose it for relaxation. I stayed in the hotel attached to San Isidoro which was gorgeous and cheap. Breakfast was fantastic. I regret passing straight through Astorga and not seeing anything, seemed a pleasant little town.

Camino2014 · Jul 9, 2014

Thank you all, we are currently in León and have seen most of the sights so we will be moving on and having our rest day in Astorga as most of you recommended.

Again, thanks for all the great input!!

indyinmaine · Jul 9, 2014

Camino2014 said:
Thank you all, we are currently in León and have seen most of the sights so we will be moving on and having our rest day in Astorga as most of you recommended.

Again, thanks for all the great input!!

If you want to try your legs for about 4k walk from Astorga and a GREAT breakfast either walk or take a taxi to Murias de Rechivaldo and El Llar.