I'm sorry your experience did not go so well. My wife and I finished in Sahagun a week ago and we concluded that this was one of the best of the 8 different caminos we have walked. I would like to provide guidance for those who are thinking about walking this camino, following that with what we consider how to make the best of it.
Guidance to those considering walking the Camino de Madrid.
This is NOT for first-time walkers. Even though the trail is well marked and does not require that one be in top shape (unlike the week-long mountain walk we did immediately before this on the Camino Ignaciano from Loyola to Logrono). Let me explain.
-- We keep very thorough journals, and we encountered 12 places along the way where one could take a wrong turn. As experienced perigrinos, we know that if you are unsure about a turn, stop, look and calculate. While we never did get lost, we had some significant delays as we figured things out.
-- You're on your own. Unlike the Frances where, as one pilgrim in Sahagun joined us for coffee commented, "You can't swing a dead cat on Frances without hitting another peregrine." Not so on Madrid. We never even once encountered any other pilgrims while walking. We did see others in the albergues, and made some wonderful friends over dinner and wine. But not along the way. If you get lost, you have no one to turn to.
-- The infrastructure is so lacking compared to the Frances. You need to be intrepid, and we give tips on that below. You also need to bring snacks and at least on several days, sandwiches.
-- If you are doing the camino for the comeraderie with other other peregrinos, this is not for you. I have already mentioned how few other peregrinos you will encounter. But if you are willing to let go and be embraced by the locals, which we have increasingly sought from our caminos, this was the best for that.
Tips on making for a less frustrating and more rewarding camino.
1. Even in late September, it can get hot on the meseta. When you arrive at a town, always check on the route out of town. When we were on the meseta, we left before dawn, so we needed to know our way. It was cool till mid-day, and we often finished by 2pm, at which time the sun was searing. We also benefitted from unforgettable sunrises, which put us in a great mood.
2. Check the route for the following day. There may not be any bars open. If not, ask for a "bocadillo para llevarse" when you get your dinner, or pick up things at a Mercado. We found that an orange, nuts and cookies could take us far.
3. We never found any problems when it came to water, so travel light in this respect. Water weighs a lot.
4. When you enter a village, look for the first person you can speak with, whether you speak Spanish or not. Look weary, miserable, hungry, desperate. This worked like a charm, and at every village we were guided to the albergue or pension, then taken to a bar where our guide argued to provide us with food. Never failed once. We ate when we wanted to eat, and often sumptuously for low prices. And the villagers loved it; people like to be needed, and we were textbook examples of this.
5. Spend an extra day in Segovia. It's one of the best stops on any camino. We stayed at the Hostal Fornos near the Plaza Mayor. Wonderful, and refreshed us after the the hill walk preceding Segovia.
6. Stop in Valladolid for at least a night. We got there mid-afternoon via a ten-minute train ride from Valdesillas. It was a Saturday and Valladolid was alive and rocking. Great fun. We toured sights in the morning and then went back to the trail in the afternoon.
7. Before you start, go the Iglesia of Santiago not far from the Plaza Mayor in Madrid to get your credencial. It's very cool...possibly the coolest in our collection. And with that, you never have to worry about being turned out from an albergue. The credencial is donativo, by the way (no cost...up to you if you want to pay anything.)
8. Unless you are absolute purist (which was our situation only on our first walk on the
Camino Frances), take a bus from Madrid to either Tres Cantos or Colmenar Viejo.
Do some homework before you go. You will not regret having as much knowledge as possible, including giving yourself options if something goes or wrong or alternatively, you fall in love with a place.
Burn Camino!
