Hi Ann, I walked the primitivo last year and found it very beautiful. parts of it are quite hilly - especially if you were take the Hospitales route. This is a route that is reccommended not to be taken alone (which I did). It is high, and isolated, but when i walked it there were so many people behind me that although I had passed them I knew that I would not be alone for very long. Yes, it is a path less travelled, but depending when you walk it there are still a lot of people on it. I found there were large numbers of Spanish people - it seemed to be their path. On this path the only non Spanish I met were 2 french couples, an English couple and a Polish woman. Most of the other "foreigners" continued along the Camino del Norte. I am saying large numbers, but in actuality it was probably only in the vicinity of about 25 - 30 people, but for me this was huge numbers as I had come from France on the Vezelay path where I met only about 4 other pilgrims in 7 weeks of walking to St Jean (or actually until I got to Saint Palais). I had no accomodation problems along the Primitivo, although the numbers that were on the path at the same time were about at the limit (Sept 2009) of beds available. Just more food for thought, Janet