Off topic but let me add a funny story about the mass I attended in Uterga. I am not a Catholic, not even Christian and this was my first Camino. Uterga, a week before Easter, 1900, and the bells in the church started ringing serious ringing. "Oh dear", I said, "Something awful must have happened in order to sound such an alarm". I have paramedic training so I went over to see if I could help. Not a soul in sight! Only those bells, so I went into the church. The entire village, some 80 odd people, were packed in shoulder to shoulder. The priest was very happy and informed the good people there, "Here is a righteous pilgrim, one who has left his family and his home in order to be with us over Easter, make him welcome"! A space was found for me on the pew and this Jewish pilgrim found himself celebrating his first mass. It was quite moving as only village masses can be. Kept a sharp eye and did whatever all the rest were doing, well, sort of, good enough anyway to receive many handshakes and even hugs towards the end of the service. The priest came to me afterwards and asked my name and where I am from, the reply "A Jew from Jerusalem" flabbergasted the good man for a second then he replied "Shalom and welcome". A wonderful start for a first Camino!