Meseta

[Trishkerry]

Hi all.
I set off on my camino from SJpdp in 47 days time. I have seen the meseta mentioned a lot on this forum. At the risk of sounding a bit thick where on the camino is the Meseta?.
Trish

 

[tyrrek]

Oooooh! You've opened a can of worms talking about the Meseta.

Roughly speaking it's between Burgos and Leon and is relatively flat land, although it's almost always cultivated either side. In spring it's green, in autumn/winter it's golden/brown.

Some people hate it because it's flat and dull. Others (like me) love it because it has a sense of peace and soul about it. If you're taking a guide book take the advice about alternative routes to stay away from the road whenever possible e.g. by going through Calzadilla dlH rather than El Burgo Ranero. In Calzadilla go to Leo's restaurant. He's brilliant.

Look forward to the stretch between Hornillos and Hontanas in particular. One of the highlights of both my Franceses although it's only 10km.

Muy Buen Camino!

 

[supersullivan]

Trish

From Wiki: The Meseta Central ("Inner Plateau") is a vast plateau in the heart of peninsular Spain, has elevations that range from 610 to 760 m. Rimmed by mountains, the Meseta Central slopes gently to the west and to the series of rivers that form some of the border with Portugal.

Judging from Brierley's Guide, the Camino Frances enters it shortly after leaving Burgos.

Regards

Seamus

 

[Trishkerry]

Thanks for the advice i will look it up in the guide book although Im sure I will know it when Im on it
Trish

 

[tyrrek]

And if you've never slept in a teepee before, the Meseta is your chance! I can't remember exactly where the albergue is (somewhere around Villalcazar de Sirga I think) but it's a great place. I didn't sleep in a teepee though. We had to move on because it was only lunchtime and we'd already had a couple of beers there. :shock: Buen Camino!

 

[Trishkerry]

Oh wow. I've ALWAYS wanted to sleep in a Teepee . I will definatley look out for that place. :-o
Trish

 

[tyrrek]

Oh wow. I've ALWAYS wanted to sleep in a Teepee . I will definatley look out for that place. :-o
Trish

The couple running it last year were Anna and Pawel and they were more chilled than a polar bear's bottom after it's been sitting down for a while. They were great. Seek it out. Someone will know exactly where it is. Buen Camino!

 

[nreyn12]

The teepee is at Albergue Amanecer in Villarmentero de Campos, 9 kms after Frómista, about in the middle of the meseta, roughly 75 kms after Burgos.

The meseta is simply beautiful in the spring. Can't wait to go back.

 

[Jochen-Schmidtke]

Hello Thrishkerry.
See the article about the Meseta here.
Buen Camino
Jochen

 

[tyrrek]

The teepee is at Albergue Amanecer in Villarmentero de Campos, 9 kms after Frómista, about in the middle of the meseta, roughly 75 kms after Burgos.

Thanks Nancy. I knew it was around that area somewhere! Buen Camino!

 

[supersullivan]

Hi Trish

If you ever get to do long distance walks in Scotland, try the West Highland Way from just outside Glasgow to Fort William, 96 miles and the possibility of staying in wooden teepees at Strathfillan about halfway along just before Tyndrum.

http://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=& ... 8975,d.ZG4

Buen camino och aye the noo :wink:

Seamus

 

[anniethenurse]

I love the Meseta.
Don´t skip anything - rather come back another time and continue your camino.
Walking into Burgos - walk on the south side of the airport all the way to the river and then along the river to the city to avoid industrial areas and traffic.
Walking into Leon - Villarente is safe now - there is a pedestrian bridge over the river - WoW!
and the same before Leon.
Walking out of Leon - start early in the morning and walk to Virgen and make your mind up. My choice is the route going to Villar de Mazarife.

 

[dalston999]

when is Spring in the Meseta????? March, April & May - or is it earlier, I imagine into May it is probably getting pretty hot.

This may sound a mad question, and I know weather patterns are all awry now, but I walked it in October last year and I absolutely loved it, and I want to see it in the Springtime. The ochres and gold colours stretching away into the distance were just magical.
Thanks
Buen Camino

 

[annelise]

I loved the Meseta in mid-May - all green and with flowers. And if you think the Meseta is flat, think again! (Or maybe this is only an elderly and not-to-fit woman talking).

 

[supersullivan]

The teepee is at Albergue Amanecer in Villarmentero de Campos, 9 kms after Frómista, about in the middle of the meseta, roughly 75 kms after Burgos.

The meseta is simply beautiful in the spring. Can't wait to go back.

Hey Nancy, I see mention of hammocks being available at this albergue too, any personal experience of staying here? I had been in mind to go from Boadillo del Camino to Caldadilla de la Cueza but open to rejig of outline plans.

regards

Seamus

 

[tyrrek]

The teepee is at Albergue Amanecer in Villarmentero de Campos, 9 kms after Frómista, about in the middle of the meseta, roughly 75 kms after Burgos.

The meseta is simply beautiful in the spring. Can't wait to go back.

Hey Nancy, I see mention of hammocks being available at this albergue too, any personal experience of staying here? I had been in mind to go from Boadillo del Camino to Caldadilla de la Cueza but open to rejig of outline plans.

regards

Seamus

There are hammocks, but I don't know if they count as a bed or not. There are dogs, teepees, food and drink, and eclectic music.

If you choose to walk the alternative route out of Fromista to the right of the road you can cut back into Villarmentero de Campos quite easily along a quiet country road, so that's not a problem at all.

Buen teepee Camino!

 

[tyrrek]

I loved the Meseta in mid-May - all green and with flowers. And if you think the Meseta is flat, think again! (Or maybe this is only an elderly and not-to-fit woman talking).

May is indeed beautiful with all the poppies etc by the Way. And you're right, it's relatively flat but there are a few killer hills such as the one just beyond Castrojeriz. :shock: Buen Camino!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Photos:

Impresión general:

Estado de conservación: Abierto en 2007

Disponibilidad del albergue: Del 1 de marzo a finales de octubre
Precio: 6 euros en litera, 6 euros en tipi y 3 euros en hamaca.
Plazas

Plazas totales: 32
Nº de plazas en litera: 18 en litera, 8 en tipi y 6 en hamaca
Nº de plazas en suelo:
Nº de colchones en suelo:
Nº de camas:
Descripción de habitaciones: 2 habitaciones de 10 plazas. Cuatro tipis
Reserva de plaza en el albergue: Sí

 

[Trishkerry]

Re: Re: Meseta

Hi Trish

If you ever get to do long distance walks in Scotland, try the West Highland Way from just outside Glasgow to Fort William, 96 miles and the possibility of staying in wooden teepees at Strathfillan about halfway along just before Tyndrum.

http://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=& ... 8975,d.ZG4

Buen camino och aye the noo :wink:

Seamus

Thanks seamus . I will add it to my list of must do walks
Trish

 

[MCVet]

Nuts, I must've completely missed the teepee/hammock albergue! That would've been awesome.

Count me as one of those who enjoyed the Meseta. It's not as pretty as, say, the forests you walk through in the first few days, or as nice as Galicia (when it's not raining), but it does have its own beauty to it. Very enjoyable IMO. The senda walking was way worse than the Meseta. Talk about monotonous!

 

[nreyn12]

Hey Nancy, I see mention of hammocks being available at this albergue too, any personal experience of staying here?

I didn't actually stay there. I stopped in for a coffee and got cornered by the proprietor's personal opinions about US politics. I chose to move on...!

when is Spring in the Meseta????? March, April & May - or is it earlier

I've walked the meseta in April and May and both times were greengreengreen. Last year in early May it was still really cold and green on the meseta, so I think any time in May is a good bet for the verdant palette.

 

[ffp13]

I'm hoping for a dry warm meseta mid June this year, I have stopped for coffee at the tipi hostel but was not inspired to spend the night

 

[NoQ]

I'm hoping for a dry warm meseta mid June this year, I have stopped for coffee at the tipi hostel but was not inspired to spend the night

I only walked part of the meseta a couple of years ago and also saw this albergue. It looked really great, but I wanted to stay in Carrion, which turned out to be an amazing albergue with singing, guitars, and amazing nuns.

I loved the parts of the meseta between Rabe and Hontanas and also between San Zoilo and Calzadilla. Perfect for inner reflection and such an amazing landscape.

 

[ffp13]

I only walked part of the meseta a couple of years ago and also saw this albergue. It looked really great, but I wanted to stay in Carrion, which turned out to be an amazing albergue with singing, guitars, and amazing nuns.

That is where I stayed on all of my previous caminos, it was great except when I was coaxed into singing, I snore better than I sing. After 3 stays there, maybe I should be more adventurous and try somewhere different, up till now if I liked a place I generally go back, and if not then I seek out alternatives. It would be hard to walk past a Albergue that I know is/ was good and gamble on the unknown? But with the help and recommendations on his forum it won't be a huge gamble

Frank

 

[Rebekah Scott]

And when on the meseta you all know you are welcome to stop in at The Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos, if only to say hello and have a cup of tea... or to rest up for the next big day.
It´s a nice place, especially for pilgrims who are missing their pets!

Reb.

 

[tyrrek]

And when on the meseta you all know you are welcome to stop in at The Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos, if only to say hello and have a cup of tea... or to rest up for the next big day.
It´s a nice place, especially for pilgrims who are missing their pets!

Reb.

It's a beautiful place, Reb. I don't have any pets to miss, but I miss your pets when I leave! Buen Camino!

 

[MCVet]

And when on the meseta you all know you are welcome to stop in at The Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos, if only to say hello and have a cup of tea... or to rest up for the next big day.
It´s a nice place, especially for pilgrims who are missing their pets!

Why on earth am I learning about all these cool places after I did my walk?! Would've loved some pet time. I swear I stopped every local who was out walking their dog and made the universal 'can I pet him?' signal. :lol:

 

[tyrrek]

Why on earth am I learning about all these cool places after I did my walk?! Would've loved some pet time.

Oh dear. You might just have to go back again! Buen Camino!

 

[emv0816]

And when on the meseta you all know you are welcome to stop in at The Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos, if only to say hello and have a cup of tea... or to rest up for the next big day.
It´s a nice place, especially for pilgrims who are missing their pets!

Reb.

sounds nice especially since I know I'll be missing my dog by then, so, where exactly is Moratinos?

 

[jpflavin1]

Emv0816:

Morantinos is in the middle of the Camino Frances. It is right between Terradillos de los Templarios and San Nicholas.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[emv0816]

Emv0816:

Morantinos is in the middle of the Camino Frances. It is right between Terradillos de los Templarios and San Nicholas.

Ultreya,
Joe

thanks, I guess that means about 10km from Sahagun.

 

[3walkingtoSantiago]

I actually enjoyed the meseta. We didn't think it was so flat, either. OMG, Castrojeriz! My son was mad every day, expecting flat walking and not getting it. He alternated blaming me and blaming Brierly.

Rebekah, I wish I had known you were so amenable unexpected visitors when I walked by last year. I found your place and tapped at the door, but no one answered (I heard the dogs, though). I didn't want to disturb without having called ahead, so I went on. Next time!

 

[tyrrek]

I guess that means about 10km from Sahagun.

Yep, 9 or 10kms. A couple of hours walking. Buen Camino!

 

[Peronel]

Likewise. I did actually stay in Moratinos, but didn't make the connection. Instead I was in an Italian-run albergue, and I'm afraid it wasn't the highlight of my Camino.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Yes, we are open to visitors. You just gotta show up when we are here, and ring the bell a couple of times and give us time to get to the front gate... this place is bigger than it looks from outside, and we are sometimes out in the back garden.

We don´t advertise -- word of mouth usually suffices. We do this because we want to, so we do not compete with people who are trying to make a living accommodating pilgrims.

Reb.

 

[tyrrek]

Likewise. I did actually stay in Moratinos, but didn't make the connection. Instead I was in an Italian-run albergue, and I'm afraid it wasn't the highlight of my Camino.

That's a pity because Bruno who runs it is a star! Give it a second chance next time. Buen Camino!

 

[NoQ]

Have to agree with Keith here. I stayed at Bruno's albergue a year and a half ago and it was superb. Lovely kind of semi private layout of bunks, good showers, what looked like it was going to be a nice garden (he had just sown the grass when I stayed) and outstanding nosh - he's a fine chef and the other guy who was Korean at the time I stayed, was very generous with the portions offered. I though he was very friendly and humorous and I had a nice conversation with him about Italian Ultras and Mussolini. Very recommendable place.

 

[tyrrek]

I though he was very friendly and humorous and I had a nice conversation with him about Italian Ultras and Mussolini. Very recommendable place.

Plus ca change, Simon (we're friends from university, everyone!). I hasten to add that I've never stayed in the albergue but on several occasions have used the bar. It's relatively new so there may have been some teething problems along the way. Bruno helped us with our litter pick in December and provided the expertise and tools to repair the monument we did that week. Buen Camino!

 

[emv0816]

I saw a movie called 'BRUNO' . was this the same Bruno? Great movie!!

 

[tyrrek]

I've tended to be there in winter when there are few pilgs around, so it wouldn't make very exciting viewing really. There is a good TV in the bar (and internet), so the plot would probably revolve around a football match on TV with someone contacting his mum on the computer underneath! That could be quite a good film! Buen Camino!

 

[Sharonstavroff]

Oooooh! You've opened a can of worms talking about the Meseta.

Roughly speaking it's between Burgos and Leon and is relatively flat land, although it's almost always cultivated either side. In spring it's green, in autumn/winter it's golden/brown.

Some people hate it because it's flat and dull. Others (like me) love it because it has a sense of peace and soul about it. If you're taking a guide book take the advice about alternative routes to stay away from the road whenever possible e.g. by going through Calzadilla dlH rather than El Burgo Ranero. In Calzadilla go to Leo's restaurant. He's brilliant.

Look forward to the stretch between Hornillos and Hontanas in particular. One of the highlights of both my Franceses although it's only 10km.

Muy Buen Camino!

Thanks for the advice. Are you referring to Via Trajana?

 

[tyrrek]

Gosh. I don't know exactly which part that is. Do you mean the stretch through/beyond Calzadilla dlH? I wasn't singling that out as being dull, in fact it's better than the alternative in my view. Buen Camino!

 

[Craig Bernthal]

I've heard that good drinking water can be an issue on the Meseta.

 

[lettinggo]

Hola,

During my Camino Frances I basically only drank water from fountains or tap water from bars, and I neither did become sick of this, nor had I any problems getting water.
This was during winter were many fountains are closed as well.
I used two standard 0.5 L plastic bottles and just filled them whenever it was possible.
I can imagine a few places on the Meseta where I may have been more in trouble if I had walked in 35 C July.
What time of year one is walking is part of ones need for water.

Buen Camino,
Lettinggo

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Hi Craig, Do with this information as you want, but this is what I experienced Fall 2013.
During my stay in Caldadilla de la Cueza on the Meseta, I woke up sick. Fortunately, I had Immodium, Motrin and a Z Pack (antibiotic). After a day sleeping, I literally crawled into Moratinos (only 8 miles) and collapsed at "Hostal Moratinos", a wonderful refuge. The owners, one Spanish and one German, told me that one should NOT DRINK TAP WATER ON THE MESETA. I said, I did not know that and no one has ever mentioned it. So, that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

 

[Winchester09]

It could be down to your individual constitution. I walked in 09 and drank tap water all the way from UK and was fine.

A good precaution to take however is a collapsible water carrier. I took a 2l bottle on my camino but when doing treks now I'll take a 1l and an empty 1 or 2l bladder which packs small weighs next to nothing and gives extra capacity if I know confirmed safe water was hard to find on a section. These don't need to be the expensive camelback type, just get a box of wine, have fun emptying it, rip off the box and inside will be a neat reuse able water pouch!


Sent from my iPhone using Camino de Santiago Forum

 

[lynnejohn]

Just my opinion, but I think when pilgrims get GI disorders I think first of Norwalk (extremely contagious and quickly passed on where people are together in enclosed places), and second some kind of food poisoning before I would think of contaminated water.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

some kind of food poisoning before I would think of contaminated water.

I agree, and also suspect dehydration, which has many of the same symptoms.

The following are further signs and symptoms of dehydration.

• Dry mouth
• The eyes stop making tears
• Sweating may stop
• Muscle cramps
• Nausea and vomiting
• Heart palpitations
• Lightheadedness (especially when standing)
• Weakness
• Decreased urine output

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Just to be clear, I am not saying it was the water. Just reporting what this couple told me.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Just to be clear, I am not saying it was the water. Just reporting what this couple told me.

I hear you, but one report by one person (or two in this case) out of 200,000 can panic hundreds of potential pilgrims in the Forum, and cause them to purchase hundreds of bottles of expensive water, and the plastic from oil that contains it, when it is not necessary! There has been a sustained drought in Spain, so all natural sources should be very suspect. Getting water from bars, albergues, and clearly marked city water sources is completely safe. Spain is not a third world country with typhus in its water.

 

[Kanga]

I've always drunk the tap water without problems, but let's ask Rebekah. She lives at Moratinos. Reb, what do you say about tap water on the meseta?

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I say it´s safe. If it wasn´t, everyone on the Meseta would be sick. "Bad water on the Meseta" is another romantic pilgrim notion, right up there with "crossing the Pyrenees" and "packs of vicious dogs."

(the couple at the Hostal are nice people, but they have never walked the camino and they are not from around here. And they sell bottled water.)

 

[Kanga]

There you go, the definitive answer.

Good hand washing would prevent a lot of problems.

 

[whariwharangi]

Keeping flies off your meat is a good idea too.

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Thanks for clarifying this Rebekah. I did not know what to do with the information I was given. I certainly did not mean to start a drinking water "panic", just did not want anyone to go through what I did. I will say, that I was well taken care of at the Hostal Moratinos which was beyond comfortable and clean!

 

[Kanga]

Thanks for clarifying this Rebekah. I did not know what to do with the information I was given. I certainly did not mean to start a drinking water "panic", just did not want anyone to go through what I did. I will say, that I was well taken care of at the Hostal Moratinos which was beyond comfortable and clean!

That's the blessing in the story.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I think a lot of the nasties come from drinking bladders and the accompanying tubes and suckers that are not kept perfectly clean. I have seen a few that joined the dark side. Eeugh.

 

[Winchester09]

I think a lot of the nasties come from drinking bladders and the accompanying tubes and suckers that are not kept perfectly clean. I have seen a few that joined the dark side. Eeugh.

True, they are easy enough to clean. Just speak to the guys in your local outdoor shop and they'll be able to tell you how. You can also get design specific cleaning kits and sterilising tablets for the most effective job. Also I found a cap to fit around the bite valve of mine to protect it when putting my bag down in case it falls in any nasties!

 

[meriPNG]

And when on the meseta you all know you are welcome to stop in at The Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos, if only to say hello and have a cup of tea... or to rest up for the next big day.
It´s a nice place, especially for pilgrims who are missing their pets!

Reb.

Oooohhhh I'm looking forward to a stop over at The Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos!!!

Marie