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moromauro en el Levante: just some hints

moromauro

moromauro
Time of past OR future Camino
Caminho de los Faros, in Galicia
I start this thread just to add a few notes to the plenty of informations i collected before leaving.

This blog was one of the major sources i used to write down my "self made guide" and some of the users who walked the Camino de Levante already provided a lot of informations very up to date.

Therefore i'll add just some informations i didn't find in my personal guide or some other note coming from my personal experience.

I was sorry not to visit the Asociación de los Amigos del Camino en Valencia before starting; knowing they read this Forum, i want to thank them here: for what i could see till now (i'm writing this post in Xátiva), the waymarking was excellent!

Gracias a todos los Amigos por vuestro trabajo.
La señalización del recorrido es perfecta!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I start this thread just to add a few notes to the plenty of informations i collected before leaving.

This blog was one of the major sources i used to write down my "self made guide" and some of the users who walked the Camino de Levante already provided a lot of informations very up to date.

Therefore i'll add just some informations i didn't find in my personal guide or some other note coming from my personal experience.

I was sorry not to visit the Asociación de los Amigos del Camino en Valencia before starting; knowing they read this Forum, i want to thank them here: for what i could see till now (i'm writing this post in Xátiva), the waymarking was excellent!

Gracias a todos los Amigos por vuestro trabajo.
La señalización del recorrido es perfecta!

Hope you make it up to the wonderful castle above Xátiva. I always rave about it but there seem to be very few takers. Construction across the ridge is amazing as are the views! Definitely one of the most spectacular castles I've ever visited on the Iberian peninsula. I think I would put it right up there with Marvao in Portugal.

Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you, buen camino!!! Laurie
 
Yes, Laurie, i wanted to!
Unfortunately i think i've pretended too much from my body in these two first stages and when i arrived to Xativa i felt exhausted.
Those (at least) 38/39 kms. to Algemesí in the first stage and these 32 (34, according to my GPS) to Xátiva today were too many for me as a beginning.
I come from 11 months very busy when i had almost no time to train and got a bit overweight; besides, the years are going by and in my early 50th i need to listen to my body much more than i did before.
I hope there'll be a second opportunity for me to visit the castle!
:-D
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Day 1: Valencia - Algemesí


1) the albergue in Algemesí is well maintained, with 2 single beds and 3 bunkbeds, for a total of 8 places.
Full equipped kitchen and two toilets ( with WC, a washbasin and a shower each), one for men and one for women.
Plenty of hot water.
Enough electrical plugs to recharge the pilgrim's apparels.
Two options to collect the keys & have the credencial stamped: at the police office or into the Museu de les Falles, just in front of the Albergue.
Apparently, the police doesn't know if there are pilgrims already let inside the albergue by the Museu.
The Museu is recognized as a part of the World Human Heritage by the UNESCO and it's very interesting and free to visit.

They welcomed me very warmly and offered me a small guided tour.
I had no word to thank them as they deserved.

2) We were 5 (!) pilgrims sleeping in the Albergue of Algemesí tonight: besides me there were two french women walking together, one dutch woman and a german man.
The german told me there was also a swiss woman on the same stage but we didn't see her: she certainly chose to stop before Algemesí.
During the day i was also overtaken by 3 pilgrims on bike: one german, who stopped by me for a fast chat, and two Spaniards.
Not so much people, if compared with other Caminos in Spain but definitely much more than expected!
:-D


Day 2: Algemesí - Xátiva

It took me 3 days to pronounce Xátiva in the correct valencian way, and now i'm proud of it!
:)

I'm staying in the Albergue Juveníl (Youth Hostel) "El Cigronér", rather close to the cathedral.
I called them yesterday to book a place in a bunkbed (for 19 €) but they were sold; they offered me a twin bedded room all for myself, with private bathroom, for just 20 € (it's a special treatment they reserve to pilgrims) and of course i accepted.
Breakfast included, even for those who leaves early in the morning.
The Albergue is wondeful: recently renovated, modern, full furnished and very, very clean.
It's a real treat for me (and i really needed it today, being exhausted as i am) at a very low price in a touristic place as Xátiva and, besides, at the beginning of a weekeend!
 
Day 1: Valencia - Algemesí


1) the albergue in Algemesí is well maintained, with 2 single beds and 3 bunkbeds, for a total of 8 places.
Full equipped kitchen and two toilets ( with WC, a washbasin and a shower each), one for men and one for women.
Plenty of hot water.
Enough electrical plugs to recharge the pilgrim's apparels.
Two options to collect the keys & have the credencial stamped: at the police office or into the Museu de les Falles, just in front of the Albergue.
Apparently, the police doesn't know if there are pilgrims already let inside the albergue by the Museu.
The Museu is recognized as a part of the World Human Heritage by the UNESCO and it's very interesting and free to visit.

They welcomed me very warmly and offered me a small guided tour.
I had no word to thank them as they deserved.

2) We were 5 (!) pilgrims sleeping in the Albergue of Algemesí tonight: besides me there were two french women walking together, one dutch woman and a german man.
The german told me there was also a swiss woman on the same stage but we didn't see her: she certainly chose to stop before Algemesí.
During the day i was also overtaken by 3 pilgrims on bike: one german, who stopped by me for a fast chat, and two Spaniards.
Not so much people, if compared with other Caminos in Spain but definitely much more than expected!
:-D


Day 2: Algemesí - Xátiva

It took me 3 days to pronounce Xátiva in the correct valencian way, and now i'm proud of it!
:)

I'm staying in the Albergue Juveníl (Youth Hostel) "El Cigronér", rather close to the cathedral.
I called them yesterday to book a place in a bunkbed (for 19 €) but they were sold; they offered me a twin bedded room all for myself, with private bathroom, for just 20 € (it's a special treatment they reserve to pilgrims) and of course i accepted.
Breakfast included, even for those who leaves early in the morning.
The Albergue is wondeful: recently renovated, modern, full furnished and very, very clean.
It's a real treat for me (and i really needed it today, being exhausted as i am) at a very low price in a touristic place as Xátiva and, besides, at the beginning of a weekeend!

I didn't even see 5 pilgrims all together on the Levante. Are they staying at the albergue in Xátiva as well?
 
I didn't even see 5 pilgrims all together on the Levante. Are they staying at the albergue in Xátiva as well?
Yes, we all slept in Xátiva: i was the only one to stay in El Cigroner, that for the remaining places was already full of groups of youngsters.
The other four pilgrims i slept with in Algemesí went all to El Palau.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Yes, we all slept in Xátiva: i was the only one to stay in El Cigroner, that for the remaining places was already full of groups of youngsters.
The other four pilgrims i slept with in Algemesí went all to El Palau.

Aaah!! Groups of youngsters! Run for your life. :OP
 
Day 3: Xátiva - Moixent

A very nice day, sunny but with a constant fresh wind blowing throughout the day: the wind blew against us hikers but for such a little con there was a big pro: a refreshment all day long!

...and that wind was particularly helpful to me: in fact i fell down while crossing the river (who overflew the road for 15 cms, despite these dry days): the pavement was much more slippery than i had thought!

I must add that i was the only one to fall down, but anyway: be very, very careful while crossing this point, some kilometers before Vallada!

I wasn't hurt, anyway: i just got wet for half of my body but, thanks to my body warmth, the fresh and dry wind and the sun shining bright, in a little more than a hour of Camino i got dry again and... yes! ...also refreshed like never before!
:-D

The albergue of Moixent is getting too little in a short time: just 4 places (2 bunkbeds) in a room, one large bathroom, fully equipped, one fridge and a microwave oven in the corridor.
There seems to be a "lavadero" in a side corridor but it's behind a closed door in the space reserved for the local "club of hunters"; even the place where to put our wet clothes after washing is only partially usable.

It seems that in the last 2 days two pilgrims forgot to return the keys of the Albergue putting them in a postalbox: now the Police has just 2 keys available for up to 4 guests: please, remind to give back your keys when leaving!

Tonight we miss the two french women but a belgian man appeared to join our group of independent hikers: tonight we are 4, so the albergue is full!
:-)
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
I even dived into a river, today, in order to escape!
;-)

Ha ha! ;OD I read your two latest posts in reversed order but now I get it.

It must be nice with company of other pilgrims. I wonder if the Levante is getting busier, or if this is normal being spring. Foolish pilgrims walking in July like me tend to be lonelier ...
 
Day 4: Moixent - La Font de la Figuera

Initially i wanted to join this stage with the one ending in Almansa but after i felt so tired after the first 2 days of Camino i thought i'm not enough trained yet to walk 43 kms with a gain of m.400 in height in one day.

So the stage 4 was short and easy.
Just one hint about the albergue: it has 12 places in bunkbeds but just 3 (very worn) mattresses; ...and the bunkbeds are made in cement!!!

There are also two pads more (one single and one double) but they don't fit in the bunkbeds and can be used only when thrown on the floor.

There is a nice bathroom and a wide kitchen; unfortunately there are forks and knives just for one person and just a small pan.
It's completely free but i think they'd better ask peregrinos for a small amount of money as a fundraising to complete the equipment.
A nice place to stay, anyway: we have to thank the Municipality!
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Day 5: La Font de la Figuera - Almansa

Nice stage across green fields of wheat, oats, olive- and almond trees.

Today i saw 2 differences from what i've noted in my self made guide:

1) trees ad shadow: here and there there are some trees along the stage.
They're not that much but are enough to find some shadow for resting during the day.

2) the address of the albergue in the convent of the Hermanas Esclavas de Maria in Almansa: i found on the web it should have been in Calle Aniceto Coloma or in Calle del Campo: both informations are wrong.
The entrance of the albergue IS in Calle Cervantes, 7; in Calle del Campo,2 there is just the main entrance of the convent but the nuns ask the pilgrims to use JUST the entrance in Calle Cervantes.

One more note:
despite the dry weather in the last days the wetland about 5 kms. before Almansa (where the Camino de Levante should cross it) is still flooded and us hikers still have to walk along the secondary option, all on the road;
the proper direction to take is extremely easy to find as we see Almansa on our left and the road clearly directs towards that town.

There are broad sidewalks (at least 2 mts. large) on both sides of the road, but they are at the level of the road itself; maybe it's not so pleasant as a walk but i didn't feel unsafe, anyway.

In the second half of that 4/5 kms. long road to Almansa there are sideways on dirt, separated from the main road, where walking is still safer (and less aggressive towards our feet); the sideways are marked with yellow arrows, despite being just a "second option" when the main Camino is flooded: good job again, Amigos del Camino de Levante!
;-)

And... oooh!
I was abundantly paid back for enduring walking along the carretera: in the flooded area (that i could enter just for its first third) there were wild birds of a lot of species and, above all, plenty of pink flamingos to admire and to photograph!

It was actually wonderful!
:-D
 
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Loving these reports! Certainly sounds like the days of "all alone on the Levante" may be over! That is good news, with a few more pilgrims it will be just about perfect. Thanks for sending all this good information! Buen camino, Laurie
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Day 6: Almansa - Higuerela

First of all, a good news for the caffeine- addicted who like to start walking early in the morning: leaving Almansa we pass by two gas stations, open 24 hours a day, where it's possible to have a basic breakfast (coffee made with Nespresso coffee machine).
;-)

Among the four pilgrims who slept in the convent in Almansa i was the only one to opt for the long stage directly to Higuerela while the others chose to stop in Alpera, dividing the stage in2 days.
As Laurie wrote in another thread and in her diary about her Camino de Levante, their choice actually has several pros.

According to the GPS on my smartphone the distance of my stage seems to be around 41 kms instead of 38,7 as reported in several websites.

It's a nice stage across small woods ad green fields, sometimes turned red by the blossom of poppies (i guess the farmers are not as happy as me by seeing such poppies in their crops!);
the second part of the stage is all along a road with little to no traffic (so it must be the whole stage Alpera - Higuerela, i guess, for those who divide the stage in two).

I thought i could be alone in the albergue; instead, having lost my previous companions, i found in Higuerela two more pilgrims walking together: a swiss and an italian seniors.

The albergue is essentially a broad sleeping room with a lot of furniture but only 3 beds (maybe a fourth place can be obtained using the sofa).
The toilets are used also for other activities: this afternoon there were music lessons till 7 P.M.

The keys must be collected in restaurante La Posada, on the way to the albergue.

I ate a real good menu in the restaurant for 9 euros; they also have rooms for 20 euros.
Sleeping in the albergue is completely free.

After checking the albergue i chose to sleep there with the other 2 pilgrims: so, also tonight we are full!
:-D
 
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Hi, moromauro,

You are lucky the mustic practice stopped at 7 pm. When I walked my two companions stayed in the albergue (I wimped out and went to the pension) and there was practice till midnight or so. It was in preparation for an upcoming parade or fiesta. The restaurant in the pension is good, I agree.

For anyone who decides to stay in the pension, make sure to check that your room key can be swiped to get you out of the front door in the morning. Mine simply would not work, and fortunately one of my buddies from the albergue came to see where I was. I was able to throw down the key from the balcony in my room and he could swipe it outside and open the door. Who would have thought to check it the night before?!
 
The restaurant in the pension is good

I found them also very nice to the pilgrims: at least, they were extremely nice to me.
When in the afternoon the supermarket in front of Hostal La Posada had finished the bread (and i needed it to prepare a bocadillo for the long stage of the day after) i asked to buy some bread in the Restaurant La Posada and they gave me it for free.

Last but not least, that night there was the retour match of the semi-final of european Champions League of soccer: Juventus Turin vs. Monaco.

Being a supporter of Juventus i ask them if they had planned to watch the game on the TV screen in their restaurant; they hadn't planned to do it but they did let me watch the game anyway, and we were supporting together the win and the access to the final of Juventus!
:-D
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Day 7: Higuerela - Chinchilla del Monte Aragon

Nice stage across (no strawberry) fields forever!
:-D

Finally a stage with one village in the midst for breakfast: in Hoya Gonzalo, 12 kms. after Higuerela, there were at least two bars open when i got there at about 8:30'.
I went to bar Marin, where there is the less talkative (but kind anyway) bartender of Spain!
:)
According to what i read in the bar, it opens at 7:15' A.M., so it can be of interest also for those who sleep the local albergue.

The last 8 kms before Chinchilla are practically without a tree or a shelter where to find some shadow; i didn't need it anyway because the day was sunny but with a very fresh and rather strong wind blowing constantly against me: it got my walking some more tiring than expected but it was also a constant refreshingly pleasure.

Just 1 kms before Chinchilla i met a group of big mammals, maybe ibexes or something like that (i'm sure they weren't deers or fallow deers): they were very scary but they were behind a ruined house close to the road while i was approaching, so they noticed me just when i was just 10/15 mts from them: after the pink flamingoes before Almansa, another nice and close encounter!

In Chinchilla there are no albergues so i booked a single room in Hostal El Volante for 21 €., with private toilet and shower.
Ordinary room and service: they are used to deal with truck drivers and other people passing by.
The bar of the hostal opens at 6 A.M.: very useful for those like me who prefer start walking as soon as the daylight makes it possible!
Chinchilla, with its castle and city walls is definitely worth a visit!

No hint of presence of any other pilgrim but, when staying in a hostal, it's difficult for me telling if i really was the only one hiker in Chinchilla that night!
 
Day 8: Chinchilla del Monte Aragón - La Gineta

An easy stage made hard.

The "natural" stage should have finished in Albacete, the most populated town of the whole big region of Castilla La Mancha, after 16 kms. from Chinchilla.

..but i wanted to walk some more, as this morning i was FEELING GOOD under every point of view
("(...)Scent of the pine you know how I feel
Oh freedom is mine
And I know how I feel

It's a new dawn
It's a new day
It's a new life
For me
And I'm feeling good (...)").

:)


Besides:
-Albacete is possibly the least interesting town to visit in the whole Spain and i didn't need, nor like, to stay in a rather big city, today;
-despite of the size of the town, Albacete misses an Albergue de Peregrinos:
taking that all into account, i left early in the morning, had my first breakfast in my hostal in Chinchilla and a second (light) one 3 hours later, in the first bar i met in Albacete, and then i went through the city in the direction of La Gineta.

I met a very strong and fresh wind all across the day, because the weather was very changeable but i was lucky to be spared from the rain that i saw falling here and there around me by the sparse clouds in the sky.
It must have been a big luck also because this stage could be hard with high T°, as the opportunities to find some shadow are very low.

I also must add that i've never walked against such a strong wind yet, in my 9 years of Caminos: something that made today's stage rather tiring.

During my way i was overtaken by 2 pilgrims on bike: by their accent when we quickly greeted each other i guess they were anglo-saxon-ish...
:-D

The whole stage lacks of shadow, almost completely.

There are 2 black spots between Albacete and La Gineta, where waymarking is not clear:
1) about 11 kms before La Gineta there is a Y-shaped split, where once there was an arrow fastened on a pole, but they fell down and are no more readable; the left branch of the "Y" passes by a farm close by, but us pilgrims have to take the right branch: just 100 mts. after taking that branch we are awarded by small group of low trees that can offer a little shadow in the hottest days ( this spot reminded me the poem "The road not taken" by Robert Frost);
2) afterwards, after a veeeeery broad S-shaped part of the Camino, we get to a X-shaped crossing with no indications: the doubt is wheter going left or straight ahead (the 3rd option takes us visibly back to Albacete): GO STRAIGHT AHEAD!!

I had no problems just because i had the map and the route to follow on my smartphone.

IMPORTANT!
In La Gineta there is a new accomodation for pilgrims (formerly hosted in the polideportivo): it's a small building with 3 rooms, located between the barracks of "Guardia Civil" and a soccer field, in the westernmost and newest part of La Gineta; the rooms are actually the locker rooms of the soccer field but they seem to be used mostly by pilgrims (the soccer field appears to be in bad conditions and hardly used).
Each room has a separate entrance (and different doorkeys...) and its private toilet with a shower; each room can fit up to 2 hosts sleeping on mats put directly on the floor, so we have a total amount of 6 places.

If you plan to sleep in the albergue in La Gineta you'd better get to the local Ayuntamiento (city hall) before 2 P.M. in order to collect the keys: a french pilgrim starting today from Albacete did it while me, coming later because of my long stage, found everything closed (ayuntamiento, local police, polideportivo) and had to ask people in the village on how to get in touch with someone helping me enter the albergue (i didn't know yet there was already the french pilgrim around).

I could solve the problem just calling a private phone number someone in the village gave me (it was the vice-mayor's number) and using my good knowledge of spanish (yes: us italians and spaniards are close cousins!)
:)

Please notice: despite having left behind my formers companions, even tonight i met a new pilgrim!
;-)

"You'll never walk alone" !
(anthem of the supporters of Liverpool football club)

:)
 
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Thanks for the update on La Gineta new albergue. I hope in the future there will be a better solution for the ‘keys’. It’s such a long stage if you walk from Chinchilla and difficult to arrive before the ayuntmiento closes at 2.00pm
Great news that you are still encountering other pilgrims.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Day 9: La Gineta - Minaya

The first part of my stage, till La Roda (~20kms.) was flat, somewhat boring, almost without trees: it didn't matter to me, as the day was very fresh but i was thinking of someone who should walk the "classical" stage Albacete - La Roda (>40 kms.) in a hot day: such a long distance with so few opportunities to find some shadow...

About 7 kms. before La Roda there is another Y-shaped split: along the right branch there is a ruined building with controversial waymarks painted on its walls (both a yellow arrow and a yellow X); us pilgrims have to take the LEFT branch, anyway.

Tonight i'm sleeping in Hostal Antolin, at the exit of Minaya along the Camino: 22 €. for a twin bedded room (for individual use), with private bathroom; they also offer a good menu for dinner, with a broad choice of dishes, for 10 euros.

In Minaya there is also an Albergue in the polideportivo but today i felt too tired to risk to share the services with the teans playing some match in there.

One strengthpoint of the hostal: the bar opens for breakfast at 6 a.m.: let's consider that, now and here, until 6,15' - 6,20' the daylight is not enough to be sure to see the yellow arrows...

During the day i met a young austrian pilgrim doing the camino "poco a poco": he started his day in La Roda but when in Minaya he decided to go further: maybe i'll meet him again in the following days.
 
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About 7 kms. before La Roda there is another Y-shaped split: along the right branch there is a ruined building with controversial waymarks painted on its walls (both a yellow arrow and a yellow X); us pilgrims have to take the LEFT branch, anyway.

Isn't that the split that... actually doesn't matter? The two roads reunite a few hundred meters furhter on (but that can't be seen at the point where they split). I stayed there to wonder for a long while only to learn later that it's the same route. Well I wonder if we're talking about the same spot - it should be some 7 kms before La Roda according to me.
 
i was thinking of someone who should walk the "classical" stage Albacete - La Roda (>40 kms.) in a hot day: such a long distance with so few opportunities to find some shadow...

It is possible, but hard. The good thing is that La Gineta is in the middle so you can make 2 equal parts of it, with a stop in between in La Gineta. That helps... Or stay for a looong while i La Gineta in the municipal swimming pool as I did, before moving on - even better!!!! :OD
 
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Isn't that the split that... actually doesn't matter? The two roads reunite a few hundred meters furhter on (but that can't be seen at the point where they split). I stayed there to wonder for a long while only to learn later that it's the same route. Well I wonder if we're talking about the same spot - it should be some 7 kms before La Roda according to me.

I actually noticed another split like that and it corresponds to your description; there is a yellow arrow painted over a stone, pointing leftwards toward a building (not a ruined one, though: a little farm, perhaps) and after half km. or so the two ways join again.

At the split i described in my previous post, instead, the ruined building is along the right branch of the split.
 
Day 10: Minaya - Las Pedroñeras

A long stage with not so much to add to the informations other users already wrote.

A long but nice day, very fresh and with a very changeable weather, but i was luckily almost spared by the rain; anyway, just like all the previous days, i had constantly to walk against a rather strong wind: when you walk a stage of about 40 kms. it makes a noticeable difference in terms of energies needed to walk.

In Las Pedroñeras everything was closed because it was San Isidro, the saint "protecting" (...) the village; it almost seemed a ghost city!

From now on San Isidro will be the least appreciated among all saints, to me!
:)

I had reserved a room in advance in a private house and stayed there, but i had no chance to have a decent meal.

Only the restaurant Castilla, very well appreciated by the pilgrims, was open but the kitchen was closed for the day and the structure served just as a bar for this day: when i went there at 20,15 they were almost about to close and i was lucky to have a portion of the only food that was left... potatoes with lot of mayonnaise flavoured with garlic.
...so i miss their famous Sopa de ajo!
:-D

P.S.: even if i can't tell whether there were pilgrims in Las Pedroñeras, the morning after, while leaving the city early in the morning, i noticed two people sleeping in their sleeping bags under the shelter just in front of the building of the local Red Cross; they had several things besides them, including two backpacks: i guessed they were pilgrims but, of course, i couldn't wake them up just to verify...
 
Day 11: Las Pedroñeras - El Toboso

Nice stage with lot of coffee-opportunities in the villages at km. 7, 13 and 19: thereafter, 12 kms. across a sweet ondulating countryside till the place of Dulcinea.

Nothing to add about the itinerary, generally well marked.

The weather was sunny all along the day, with some white clouds just after noon, sparse in the sky to offer some shadow now and then; the air is still rather fresh and, for the first one in 11 days of Camino, there was no wind blowing against my walking: just a light wind with changing directions as a refreshment.

I was in heaven.

In El Toboso i found a very cheap accomodation in Hostal Quijote: 15 €. for a twin bedded room for single use, with private bathroom: good and comfortable.

I found in my hostal the two elderly pilgrims (one italian, one swiss) i already met in Higuerela some days ago, and i was surprised to see them here: in the meanwhile i did very long stages whithout meeting them ever while them, because of their age and habits, use leave late and do short stages:.
I am rather certain they take some taxi or bus ti skip or shorten some stage... and i'm pretty sure i'll do the same when i won't afford anymore to walk whole stages counting just on my own body energies, when i am older!
:-D

I don't like young/adult "turigrinos" skipping or shortening stages by catching several means of transportation just because they don't like to walk too much, despite their good shape and health; but when some people do their best for walking and then need some help to get to the end of the stage, i'm on their side!

Having reserved in the afternoon also my accomodation in La Villa de Don Fadrique i already know tbere will be a "new" spanish pilgrim i haven't met yet in the place where i'm going to sleep tomorrow!
:-D
 
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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
I actually noticed another split like that and it corresponds to your description; there is a yellow arrow painted over a stone, pointing leftwards toward a building (not a ruined one, though: a little farm, perhaps) and after half km. or so the two ways join again.

At the split i described in my previous post, instead, the ruined building is along the right branch of the split.

Okay, I get it. That's the one I meant.
 
Day 12: El Toboso - La Villa de Don Fadrique

Nice stage, shorter than the ones of the days before: this is very good as today and tomorrow the temperatures are rising and i don't like to walk too much during the hottest hours of the day; anyway i must say that the days are not really hot yet.

Walking outside El Toboso, along the camino, there are two bars that were already open at 6,40, when i passed them by; afterwards there are two more towns for a quick rest/refreshing stop.

Not so much shadow along the way; the last opportunity is just outside La Puebla de Almoradiel, where there is a small pinewood.
When i passed it by in that pinewood there was a sort of fair, despite being monday; later on, when i arrived to La Villa de Don Fadrique, i met another fair and all shops were closed: i was explained that it was for San Isidro (...again?!? Wasn't it last saturday when i found Las Pedroñeras completely closed almost like a ghost town?).

Later on the owner of Casa El Rincon del Infante, where i stopped for the night, told me that San Isidro can be celebrated in different days in the several towns of this area: well, i hope he's not going to be celebrated tomorrow in Tembleque, where i plan to stop!
After 3 days of celebrations i'd like to sleep in a town where shops are open; please, San Isidro, abandon me!
:-D

The Casa El Rincon del Infante is a very well maintained old house in Plaza Mayor; i can confirm all the good things about this house Laurie has already written in her diary.

There is a special price for pilgrims (20 € instead of 30), including a rich breakfast and the washing of all clothes; it is also possible to have a 3 courses dinner, home made, for 10 €.

The pilgrim is welcomed with free refreshments and tapas; ...almost a meal themselves!

The owner also provides many informations and advices about the following stages of the Camino until Toledo (but i don't know if he speaks english).

The breakfast, included in the price, can also be served early in the morning (i booked it for 6 A.M.).

The rooms are very nice, clean, spacious and well furnished; two of them have a private bathroom.

There was also a spanish pilgrim tonight sleeping in El Rincon and he's new to me till now, while in the polideportivo there seem to be at least two germans, one italian man and one spanish woman: i don't have met any of them till now.

Just one more information about the stage of tomorrow: according to what the owner of Casa El Rincon del Infante told me, the albergue of Villacañas use to shelter also tramps, drunk people and so on: it seems that many cases of theft occurred there towards the pilgrims: therefore he strongly advices not to sleep there.
 
Just one more information about the stage of tomorrow: according to what the owner of Casa El Rincon del Infante told me, the albergue of Villacañas use to shelter also tramps, drunk people and so on: it seems that many cases of theft occurred there towards the pilgrims: therefore he strongly advices not to sleep there.
The "Albergue de Transeuntes" in Villacanas is actually meant for displaced people. And in such a small place/town more often for bums, beggars etc. It opens late at 18:00 and I have waited in a park down by the supermercado and RR. Only one bench unoccupied, all the rest with drunken men. I decided not to wait for Albergue and head for Hotel Europa (on the main street) and got a room for 30€ en-suite. Price is 38€, for pilgrims 36€, but if you pay in cash could be negotiable down to 30€.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Just one more information about the stage of tomorrow: according to what the owner of Casa El Rincon del Infante told me, the albergue of Villacañas use to shelter also tramps, drunk people and so on: it seems that many cases of theft occurred there towards the pilgrims: therefore he strongly advices not to sleep there.

Oh Juan.... I'm sure he is well-intentioned. And I'm not suprised if there has been som theft going on so, not to say that he is lying. I just wanted to add that I did stay in the albergue in Villacañas, two years ago, and there was no problem. There was a communal meal in the evening with a few participants, hosted by Caritas, then off to bed in a room that I shared with two homeless men that I hadn't seen before, not even at the dinner. There was no problem sharing the room with them: I just put my rucksack and my things in a corner and no-one stole from me :O) The staff told me to take anything I wanted from the fridge and refused to let me pay for it (although Caritas relies mostly on donations) and everyone was very helpful!

/BP
 
Day 13: La Villa de Don Fadrique - Tembleque

I found this stage a bit boring and monotonous: till Villacañas the stage was quite like the ones in the last days and thereafter the Camino goes mostly along a carretera, with just one small (but comfortable) pinewood to find some shadow, about 9 kms. before Tembleque.
Good waymarking; a few kms. after Villacañas the Camino de Levante separates its way from the Camino del Sureste; the latter goes to the right, leaving the carretera but adding a couple of kms. on its way to Tembleque.

This was tbe hottest day in my Camino, with temperatures reaching 30°C in late afternoon; anyway the walking in the morning was pleasant, the sun was partially covered by high and light clouds and now and then a light wind was blowing to add some pleasure to the march.
In the following days it seems there'll be a significant descent in the temperatures: good to hear!

Tembleque is a nice town and its main square is a must-see.

No albergue in the town; i'm sleeping in the Casa Rural "Él balcón de la Mancha" for 18 € for a triple room for individual use, with a private bathroom; despite its name, the Casa Rural is in the very centre of the town, between the beautiful church and the famous square.

It's a very good accomodation; not all rooms have a private bathroom; there is also a very wide kitchen/dining room, very well furnished, and an inner patio where it's possible to stretch the laundry.

I met a new french pilgrim in the Casa Rural and i know there are at least also one italian man and a spanish woman walking together and the other spaniard who was yesterday in El Rincon del Infante (the only one pilgrim i met till now walking the Sureste); i wouldn't be surprised if there were here at least another french man and a german couple: all of them slept yesterday in La Villa de Don Fadrique.

If it's not a coincidence, it appears that the number of pilgrims/hikers on the Levante/Sureste is really considerably increasing.

P.S.: last but not least: in Villacañas i saw the first storks and storks' nests in this Camino, but other pilgrims told me there were at least two more nests in La Villa de Don Fadrique.
I was also pleased by the sound this magnificent birds "play" by beating their beaks: to me it's one of the landmarks of the Camino!
:-)
 
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Day 13: La Villa de Don Fadrique - Tembleque
……..I met a new french pilgrim in the Casa Rural and i know there are at least also one italian man and a spanish woman walking together and the other spaniard who was yesterday in El Rincon del Infante (the only one pilgrim i met till now walking the Sureste); i wouldn't be surprised if there were here at least another french man and a german couple: all of them slept yesterday in La Villa de Don Fadrique.

If it's not a coincidence, it appears that the number of pilgrims/hikers on the Levante/Sureste is really considerably increasing.
…….
:)
Great news @moromauro . It seems like a steady little stream of pilgrims walking Levante/Sureste this year.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Great news @moromauro . It seems like a steady little stream of pilgrims walking Levante/Sureste this year.

I guess there are more and more "Camino lovers" trying this one after having already done several of the others Caminos and as much who "escape" not only the overcrowded Camino Frances but also other Caminos who are getting rather busy themselves (Plata, Norte, Portugues).

Besides that, there are the "natural" Levante walkers": i met a spanish girl from Valencia and a man from Cartagena (Murcia) both having started their Camino from the doorstep of their houses.
 
Wow, great news for Levante/Sureste future!!!

What, only 30C? In 2015 I had almost three weeks between 40-48C :D

Keep posting :)
 
with the homeless shelters - I had a conversation with the police about them when I walked in 2009. Both they and I were of the opinion that staying in them might take a bed from someone who needed it more than me. Plenty of hostals in these pueblos - or sleeping under the stars
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Day 14: Tembleque - Mora

I'm in a stretch of the Camino where accomodations for pilgrims are much to be developed.

There is no albergue in Tembleque, no albergue neither in Mora nor in Almonacid de Toledo (in both towns the Ayuntamiento's officers told me on the phone they are currently renovating the old rooms once served as Albergue de Peregrinos), no albergue till Toledo and further on;
it seems that the first albergue after Villacañas may be in Rielves (25 kms. after Toledo: a basic accomodation in the local parish) and then certainly in Torrijos (35 kms after Toledo).

In Mora i met almost all pilgrims who were in Tembleque the night before; we all chose Hostal El Toledano in Mora, that seems to be the cheapest accomodation in town (17 € for an individual room with private bathroom: rather basic accomodation but more than enough for me); those who want some more comfort can choose the Pensión Agripino for 25 € a night (special price for pilgrims, recently renovated) or other accomodations in town.

In today's stage the Camino de Levante and the Camino del Sureste split a few kms. after Tembleque, but then join again in Mora at the end of the day (el Levante, in my guide, seemed to be 2 kms. shorter than the other but on the signposting along the way there was written that it's the Sureste to be the shortest, for just 1 km.).

I opted for the Levante but i'm afraid my choice was the wrong one: in the second half of my stage the way goes across nice fields with olive trees and just beneath the old castle of Mora, BUT:
1) there are stretches where the farmers, while tilling the soil among the olive trees, have carelessly plowed also the Camino's way; as the ground in that area is mainly made of rather big stones, now we have to walk over medium sized pebbles with sharp edges, sagging under the footsteps: it's a hiking as tiring as walking on some dry and soft sand but much more harmful towards the feet soles because of the size and the shape of the stones: at the end of the day i had sore feet despite walking in my hiking boots with a hard and resistant outer sole and a soft inner one;
2) there is no opportunity to find a bar or a fountain all along the stage.

When choosing to walk this stage along the Sureste, instead, the pilgrim has a much more comfortable way to walk (according to what the other pilgrims told me at night) and can also pass through a town (Villanueva de Bogas) at about half stage, with bars and shops for drinks and foods.
I strongly advice to opt for the Sureste, in this stage.

The weather was good for hiking all along the day: mostly cloudy, a very light wind, T°s never above 25° C.

At night i felt exhausted even if the stage was not that long, and i was wondering why.
 
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Day 15: Mora - Toledo

Long but nice stage: i was extremely lucky to avoid the rain and even the hailstorm in the morning: in the stretch between Almonacid and Nambroca along the way there was a lot of hail on the ground, fallen not so much time before: some of the grains of the hail had the size of a big blueberry, or of a little olive.

The last kms. walking along a road facing Toledo on the other side of the river Tajo make you forget the length of the stage!!!

Here in Toledo i'll have my first rest day, as it's the first time i come here and i want to visit this interesting city as it deserves!

Just one advice for those who can't cook here in Toledo and/or want to eat a complete meal without spending a lot: i've found the Restaurante Palacios, in the historical centre of the town (at the corner between Calle Alfonso X El Sabio and Calle Navarro Ledesma/Calle Nuncio Viejo); it offers various levels of Menú del Dia, at different prices, both for lunch and for dinner: the cheapest one costs €.7,50 and includes a first and a second course and a dessert (mostly homemade); the bread and the first drink are included. The quality and the quantity of food are fair; for dessert and any of the two courses we can choose among 4 to 6 different options each.

Less than the price of the typical "menú del Peregrino" in the very centre of a touristic city...
 
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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Yes, I did the same route as you. The sign outside of Tembleque is wrong saying the Sureste is shorter. But the Levante route we took had the worse signage of the entire Camino de Levante. I don't know if it improved after Jean Claude walked it though.



QUOTE="moromauro, post: 517708, member: 18036"]Day 14: Tembleque - Mora

I'm in a stretch of the Camino where accomodations for pilgrims are much to be developed.

There is no albergue in Tembleque, no albergue neither in Mora nor in Almonacid de Toledo (in both towns the Ayuntamiento's officers told me on the phone they are currently renovating the old rooms once served as Albergue de Peregrinos), no albergue till Toledo and further on;
it seems that the first albergue after Villacañas may be in Rielves (25 kms. after Toledo: a basic accomodation in the local parish) and then certainly in Torrijos (35 kms after Toledo).

In Mora i met almost all pilgrims who were in Tembleque the night before; we all chose Hostal El Toledano in Mora, that seems to be the cheapest accomodation in town (17 € for an individual room with private bathroom: rather basic accomodation but more than enough for me); those who want some more comfort can choose the Pensión Agripino for 25 € a night (special price for pilgrims, recently renovated) or other accomodations in town.

In today's stage the Camino de Levante and the Camino del Sureste split a few kms. after Tembleque, but then join again in Mora at the end of the day (el Levante, in my guide, seemed to be 2 kms. shorter than the other but on the signposting along the way there was written that it's the Sureste to be the shortest, for just 1 km.).

I opted for the Levante but i'm afraid my choice was the wrong one: in the second half of my stage the way goes across nice fields with olive trees and just beneath the old castle of Mora, BUT:
1) there are stretches where the farmers, while tilling the soil among the olive trees, have carelessly plowed also the Camino's way; as the ground in that area is mainly made of rather big stones, now we have to walk over medium sized pebbles with sharp edges, sagging under the footsteps: it's a hiking as tiring as walking on some dry and soft sand but much more harmful towards the feet soles because of the size and the shape of the stones: at the end of the day i had sore feet despite walking in my hiking boots with a hard and resistant outer sole and a soft inner one;
2) there is no opportunity to find a bar or a fountain all along the stage.

When choosing to walk this stage along the Sureste, instead, the pilgrim has a much more comfortable way to walk (according to what the other pilgrims told me at night) and can also pass through a town (Villanueva de Bogas) at about half stage, with bars and shops for drinks and foods.
I strongly advice to opt for the Sureste, in this stage.

The weather was good for hiking all along the day: mostly cloudy, a very light wind, T°s never above 25° C.

At night i felt exhausted even if the stage was not that long, and i was wondering why.[/QUOTE]
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
the Camino de Levante and the Camino del Sureste split a few kms. after Tembleque, but then join again in Mora at the end of the day

Hold your horses! The Sureste does not go through Mora according to my info. They reunite before Almonacid de Toledo! On The Sureste, you have Villanueva de Bogas "instead of" Mora. :OD

/BP
 
the pilgrim has a much more comfortable way to walk (according to what the other pilgrims told me at night) and can also pass through a town (Villanueva de Bogas) at about half stage, with bars and shops for drinks and foods.
I strongly advice to opt for the Sureste, in this stage.

Ooh sorry, I didn't see that. You know of Villanueva de Bogas. Yes there are a couple of bars there and some small shops. I think accomodation is better in Mora though. To stay for the night, I definitely prefer Mora to Villanueva de Bogas.
 
Day 15: Mora - Toledo

Long but nice stage: i was extremely lucky to avoid the rain and even the hailstorm in the morning: in the stretch between Almonacid and Nambroca along the way there was a lot of hail on the ground, fallen not so much time before: some of the grains of the hail had the size of a big blueberry, or of a little olive.

The last kms. walking along a road facing Toledo on the other side of the river Tajo make you forget the length of the stage!!!

Here in Toledo i'll have my first rest day, as it's the first time i come here and i want to visit this interesting city as it deserves!

Just one advice for those who can't cook here in Toledo and/or want to eat a complete meal without spending a lot: i've found the Restaurante Palacios, in the historical centre of the town (at the corner between Calle Alfonso X El Sabio and Calle Navarro Ledesma/Calle Nuncio Viejo); it offers various levels of Menú del Dia, at different prices, both for lunch and for dinner: the cheapest one costs €.7,50 and includes a first and a second course and a dessert (mostly homemade); the bread and the first drink are included. The quality and the quantity of food are fair; for dessert and any of the two courses we can choose among 4 to 6 different options each.

Less than the price of the typical "menú del Peregrino" in the very centre of a touristic city...
I got hailed AND snowed on during the same stretch, the only time on the Levante
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
I got hailed AND snowed on during the same stretch, the only time on the Levante

This weather was very surprising to me, especially in mid may in this area, but the big advantage was to avoid the heat there could be in La Mancha in this period
 
Ooh sorry, I didn't see that. You know of Villanueva de Bogas. Yes there are a couple of bars there and some small shops. I think accomodation is better in Mora though. To stay for the night, I definitely prefer Mora to Villanueva de Bogas.

I think that it's possible to walk the whole way Tembleque - Villanueva de Bogas - Mora in the same day: it should be about 27 kms. long, so an average stage, with both advantages over the Levante: better surface to walk over and refreshment opportunities at half stage; and, just like in the stage on Levante, a rather broader choice of accomodations in a medium sized town like Mora.
 
Day 17: Toledo - Torrijos

About 35 kms. today but, maybe thanks to the rest day i spent visiting the nice town of Toledo, the day passed by very easily.

The stage was rather easy, actually; i left Toledo early in the morning (at 6,15', with the first daylight) thus i could get to Torrijos at about 14,30' without hurrying up and avoiding the hottest hours in the afternoon in a rather warm day (~30°C was the highest temperature of the day at 4 - 5 P.M., in Torrijos).

We have to consider that, in this part of Europe, the sun is at its day's highest at about 2 P.M. in the period from march to october.

I had my breakfast in my "hostal" room before leaving but along the itinerary of the Camino, just outside the ancient city walls, there were at least two bars already open early in the morning.

I had a problem with a loose dog of one of the farms in Estiviel, a very small place some kilometers after Toledo.

The beast ran to me coming from the gate of the farm, left open: i was ready to use my walking sticks to keep him at distance, trying to leave in the meanwhile, when its owner luckily heard its barking and called it back.

For those who want to prevent this risk it's possible to avoid Estiviel;
1 km. before there is a fork where it's possible to go left along the Camino natural del Tajo instead of rightwards to Estiviel: both tracks rejoin a couple of kms. thereafter and are about the same length;
the option along the Tajo offers also the opportunity to see, from a shorter distance, a spot along the river literally FULL of nests of storks (despite watching them from a greater distance, as i was walking the path coming from Estiviel, i have counted more than 10 nests over 4 or 5 trees close to each other along the bank of the Tajo).

Torrijos is a nice and reasonably good sized town, interesting to visit; despite being saturday the office of the "policia local" was open when i arrived and they were very available in arranging the access to the albergue (they called one man on the phone, who came to open the albergue in just 15 minutes).

The albergue is very close to the town hall and is nice: a broad living room with tables and chairs, a small kitchen with a microwave oven BUT without cutlery, 4 bedrooms with one 2 places-bunkbed in each one, 3 bathrooms; it has no admission fee as it's "donativo".
The only remark i would do is about the cleanness, that could be improved.

We were 6 pilgrims in the albergue: two italians, 3 french, one french-speaking belgian... and we talked in "pilgrimian language" as it was the only one we all knew...
:)
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Day 18: Torrijos - Almorox

I started early in the morning planning to walk the comfortable 25 kms. long stage to Escalona but, when i arrived there, it was still noon and i felt very good, so i visited that nice town, ate a portion of paella in a bar as a brunch, took some pictures of the extremely interesting, though ruining, castle (a stratification of arab and later fortifications, now property of the storks who live there) and then decided to go further to Almorox.

I took this decision also because the weatger today was perfect for hiking: cloudy but not rainy at all, a light and fresh northern wind, 27°C as the highest daily temperature; according to the weather forecast, the following days will be some hotter... glad to have arrived at the foot of the mountains: tomorrow i'm going to end my stretch across the region of Castilla La Mancha and, after crossing a short track in the region of Madrid, i should enter the province of Ávila, in the region of Castilla y León.

I must say that between Torrijos and Escalona there were at least 3 spots where waymarking was missing: some orienteering skills and maybe the track of this stage uploaded on some device (i use the app Oruxmaps on my smartphone, together with offline maps) will be of great help in this stage.

The way to Almorox is nice and it mostly pass through a "dehesa": it reminded me the stage getting to Almadén de la Plata, in the Via de la Plata, of course!

By adding these 9 kms to the stage originally arriving to Escalona i hope i can get to Cebreros tomorrow (37 kms) and then to break up in two days the stage getting to Ávila: i'd prefer to get there early and not too tired in order to enjoy that and the following rest day visiting the town.

No pilgrim in Almorox tonight but that's no surprise: my fellows of the albergue in Torrijos were leaving rather late in the morning, planning (just like me, at first) to sleep in Escalona... i hope (and i think) i'll meet them again in Ávila, within a couple of days!
 
Wow you are doing some long days now. The rest in Toledo must have given you a ‘second wind’ :)

I’m doing last minute ‘pligrim-things’ leaving in the morning for my 41-hour epic from my town in NZ to Valencia. @moromauro, your notes have been added to my ‘guide'. Thanks so much
 
@moromauro, your notes have been added to my ‘guide'. Thanks so much

Sliding doors...

I took so many and useful informations from a lot of users in this forum who walked the "Levante" before us;
now i'm trying to give them back to the ones who follow.

I'd be glad if some of those information will be useful to you.
:-D

I wish you to have a great experience walking the Camino de Levante!
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Day 19: Almorox - Cebreros

A long but nice stage.

The sun shone all day long and in the last kms., while i was tired and there was a little shadow while going uphill to Cebreros, i suffered it (just a little, though!).

The air was rather fresh in the shadow and there was some light wind to help the march.

In the first 10-12 kms. after Almorox there were almost no waymarkings and i could find my way just using the tracks i uploaded on my smartphone; there's often the noise of the nearby carretera to help orientation but one could easily miss the Camino, in this stretch; i definitely understand how Sulu had problems finding her way in this area.

The waymarking improve some km. before San Martin de Valdeiglesias and, from there to Cebreros, it become perfect!

Lovely walking in the sparse woods in the stretch till San Martin; i met a group of 3 loose dogs (at least 2 of them were Dobermann) but luckily they just worried i didn't enter their property... and they loud barking was extremely persuading not to!
i was so sorry not to be able to visit the "Toros de Guisando" because they are in a secluded area (the entrance costs 2 €.) but the area is open for visits only from friday to sunday!!!
:-(

I sleep tonight in the Albergue La Pizarra: it's a private hostel with several rooms with 4 or 6 beds in each, very well maintained though without kitchen.

For the keys and registration go to the hotel restaurant "Rondón", at the very top (...pant pant!) of the town: it seems they manage the hostel as well.
The albergue is just 100 meters before the hotel, close to a disused swimming pool.

We are just 3 pilgrims sleeping in here tonight (there are a Spaniard i hadn't met before and a frenchman i met before in Tembleque and Mora) and, besides us, there is a spanish woman who seems to live here in one of the sleeping rooms.

I feel very tired tonight but i'm glad i walked today's stage: now i'll take 2 days to get to Ávila, doing two short stages in the fresh air of the morning and, when in Ávila, i'll take my second and last day of rest to visit the town.
 
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i was so sorry not to be able to visit the "Toros de Guisando" because they are in a secluded area (the entrance costs 2 €.) but the area is open for visits only from friday to sunday!!!
:-(

Whaaat,

Secluded area? Pay 2 euros? Things have changed since a few years. You could just go see them. No obstacles. Strange!!!
 
Whaaat,

Secluded area? Pay 2 euros? Things have changed since a few years. You could just go see them. No obstacles. Strange!!!

They probably discovered they can make some money from them and i'm no surprised by it.

The place is considered by many spaniards as one of the cradles of their country because it was there where Elisabeth was crowned as the first queen of Castille, some years before marrying the King of Aragon, conquering the kingdom of Granada and financing the travel of Columbus towards America... such a big concentration of things that lead Spain towards its golden age makes this place appealing in this country.

I was much more interested in the much older Toros made of granite, though!

I would have payed 2 €. for a visit but the opening times are very short (...just 3 days a week!) and i was very disappointed to miss them!

Besides, if i knew in advance i couldn't see the Toros de Guisando, i could have taken the carretera going directly to Cebreros (that joins the official Camino just before to turn to a path), saving a total of 4 kms. walking on a road: in my stage of almost 40 kms. it would have been very useful to me!

I just could see and photograph the Toros de Guisando from the closed gate along the street, but i was at least 20/30 mts. far from them and it was the only available point of view.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Day 20: Cebreros - San Bartolomé de Pinares

Today i walked a very short stage and that was good because i realized that the long stage of yesterday stressed my body by sweating a lot under the strong sun.

This morning i started at 7:00, almost one hour later than usual, because i felt the need to sleep some more, but i made a mistake: when i started walking on the steep uphill just outside Cebreros the sun was already shining and, despite being early in the morning, i started sweating a lot, again!

Luckily, after passing the Puerto de Arrebatacapas, the walk become much easier, and being over 1.000 mts above the sea level the temperature of the air is something lower, even if there's almost no shadow on the path while walking.

It seems that since yesterday there's a heatwave lasting 3-4 days.

Waymarking was very good all along the stage.

The albergue of San Martin is located in a small room on the first floor of the Centro de Salud; the keys must be collected in the Ayuntamiento.

It's a 6 places room (3 bunkbeds), with toilets shared with the Centro de Salud; the showers are in a separate building just 50 mts. from the Centro de Salud.
Admission in the albergue is free of charge.

Tonight i am with the frenchman who slept yesterday in Cebreros.
We had a good lunch in the bar Pistòn for 9 €.: they are very welcoming to pilgrims and, at night, the owner offered me the Café con leche to take to the albergue for my breakfast of tomorrow (i plan to leave very early in order to prevent the heat)
 
Whaaat,

Secluded area? Pay 2 euros? Things have changed since a few years. You could just go see them. No obstacles. Strange!!!

The worst thing is that the place is only open for visits from friday to sunday, and not for many hours a day!

I could only see and photograph the Toros of Guisando from a distance of 20/30 mts., through the closed gate: the only available point of view!
 
Among the four pilgrims who slept in the convent in Almansa i was the only one to opt for the long stage directly to Higuerela while the others chose to stop in Alpera, dividing the stage in2 days.

A fifth one, myself, was at the hotel.
The English one reached me some 10 km before Alpera, and the Belgian one a few minutes later.
On next day I saw again the English man who told me he was to stop in Higueruela.
The Belgian and I walked to Higueruela and further Hoya Gonzalo (31 km) where we meet the Swiss one (from Bern) and the Italian (from Verona).
Next day the Belgian went to Chinchilla from where he had to go back to Valencia.
I continued through Chinchilla to Albacete, where I stayed at Hostal Atienzar and came back to Valencia on next day.
As you tell, the two last days were very windy.

Buen Camino.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Just 1 kms before Chinchilla i met a group of big mammals, maybe ibexes or something like that

wow, this is nice.

When I passed, May 11th, I only met (at Casas del Rincón, a few km before) five battle tanks: there is a shot training field in the hills at right side. The first time I walked this stage I was surprised by shots, until I understood why.
 
During my way i was overtaken by 2 pilgrims on bike: by their accent when we quickly greeted each other i guess they were anglo-saxon-ish...

May be the same ones that overtook me before Chinchilla. As they saw me refreshing an arrow, they stopped and we spoke a little time. They said being German, although we used English
 
Day 21: San Bartolomé de Pinares - Ávila
The weather forecast told this day was going to be hot so i choose to leave San Bartolomé at 5,45', when it was still dark, and walk the first half of the stage on the road, where the traffic is very low; by doing this i managed to avoid going uphill under the sun.
The air was fresh though, as we get to almost 1350 above the sea level in the highest point of the stage and of the whole Camino de Levante (the highest point on the road is 1317 mts. but, thereafter, the patht go on uphill ascending slightly for more than 1 km. further).

The stage is not hard, though.

In the Albergue of Ávila i met again the spanish pilgrim i first saw in La Villa de Don Fadrique and we were the only two pilgrims in the very good Albergue "Las Tenerias", just between the river Adaja and the city walls, at the westernmost door of the walls themselves.

The albergue has 3 bedrooms for a total of 10 places in bunkbeds, one bathroom and a wide and well fitted kitchen with a hob and a microwave oven, a washing machine to use for free and a place outaide where fo stretch the laundry.
It's donativo and it's maybe the best albergue i slept in in my Camino the Levante.

Let me add just some statistics:
i was the 168th pilgrim this year to sleep in the Albergue of Avila; from january to march just 9 pilgrims did; the rest (159) slept here from the first of april to may, 24th.

It means an average of almost 3 pilgrims/day in the months of april and may.

We must also consider that some other pilgrim could have preferred to sleep in some commercial accomodation in this town and that some otbers, as JLWV wrote about some pilgrims i met in my first stages, stop walking before getting here for different reasons.

If we consider that all, it really seems that the numbers, yet rather low, don't speak anymore of a totally lonely Camino but of a Camino that is rising and that's already suitable for those who don't love the crowded routes but yet like meeting some other hikers during, or at least at the end, of a stage.



Day 22: rest day in Ávila

After the day in Toledo, i'm a "turigrino" for a second time...
:)

This magnificent town definitely deserves a visit!
 
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Day 22: resting in Ávila:
just two more considerations

1) while yesterday we were just two pilgrims sleeping here in the albergue of Ávila, tonight we are 8!
Besides me there are the 4 french pilgrims and the italian i slept with in Torrijos, one spanish cyclist and another pilgrim from Albacete who is going to stop here his Camino.

2) when asked about a good place where to eat, the hospitalero advices to go to a nearby bar/restaurant on the opposite bank of the stream Adaja.

It's called bar Eladio.

I went there for a coffee and i was curious because from the outside the bar sports a lot of spanish flags and national symbols and a writing telling "espacio nacional" (national space).

I naively thought it was a place for typical products and actual spanish cuisine, so i entered the place and told as a joke to the waitress if, despite being a national space, they also attended foreigners; the waitress laughed nodding "yes", so i asked a coffee.

Then i looked around, and i saw the walls were completely covered with pics of Francisco Franco and images about his dictatorship ended in 1976: a period that can at least considered as controversial;
but there was something more: one of the pic, hanging just on the wall behind the bar, showed Franco shaking hands with Adolf Hitler, both of them smiling.

Adolf Hitler! ...and an apparent pride the ownership of the restaurant takes in showing such criminal against the humanity while greeting Francisco Franco that, in the other many pics in the bar is seen clearly in high esteem.

It's not a matter of right- or left-wing politics, to me: It's a matter of humanity.

Hitler, just as Stalin on the opposite side, was someone who committed immeasurable crimes against the human being itself, plannin and acting the extermination of millions of lives.

There is no politic belief that can justify such crimes;
there can be no excuse to celebrate such criminal in a spanish bar.

Please, don't spend your money in bar Eladio, Ávila.
 
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Day 22: resting in Ávila:
just two more considerations

1) while yesterday we were just two pilgrims sleeping here in the albergue of Ávila, tonight we are 8!
Besides me there are the 4 french pilgrims and the italian i slept with in Torrijos, one spanish cyclist and another pilgrim from Albacete who is going to stop here his Camino.

2) when asked about a good place where to ear, the hospitalero advice togo to a nearby bar/restaurant on the opposite bank of the stream Adaja.
It's called bar Eladio.
I went there for a coffe and i was curious because since the outside the bar sports a lot of spanish flags and national symbols and a writing telling "espacio nacional" (national space).

I naively thought it was a place for typical products and actual spanish cuisine so i entered place and told as a joke to the waitress if, despite being a national space, they also attended foreigners; the waitress laughed nodding "yes" so i asked a coffee.

Then i looked around, and i saw the walls were completely covered with pics of Francisco Franco and images about his dictatorship ended in 1976: a period that can at least considered as controversial; but there was something more: one of the pic, just on the wall behind the bar, showed Franco shaking hands with Adolf Hitler.

Adolf Hitler, and an apparent pride the ownership of the restaurant takes in showing suc criminal against the humanity.

It's not a matter of right- or left-wing politics, to me: It's a matter of humanity.

Hitler, just as Stalin on the opposite side, was someone who committed immeasurable crimes against the human being itself, plannin and acting the extermination of millions of lives.

There is no politic belief that can justify such crimes;
there can be no excuse to celebrate such criminal in a spanish bar.

Please, don't spend your money in bar Eladio, Ávila.
All I can do is a deep deep bow to you for this post!!!
 
Day 23: Ávila - Gotarrendura

A short and easy stage i started early to avoid the heat, as a heatwave has reached most of Spain, with summer temperatures.

Starting early means that all the bars of the places i passed by during the stage were still closed, as they open usually at 11 A.M.

I had my breakfast in the albergue of Avila, though, so i had no problem during the day.

Perfect waymarking along the stage.

I read that in Gotarrendura there could be some problem purchasing some food but here i found the only bar in the village where i could eat a delicious portion of lentils for lunch and a ricb mixed salad for dinner, with the 3 french pilgrims who's sharing the alberfue with me tonight.

The albergue has just 4 places (2 bunkbeds) in a sleeping room but it's the best albergue where i slept till now, even better than the one in Ávila because of the cleaning conditions.
The albergue has also a little kitchen, a dining room, a bathroom and a laundry with washing- and drying machines free for use.
The fee is "donativo".

Whenever the pilgrims are more than 4, the others can sleep in the Albergue turistico, in the same structure, for 15 € each.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Day 24: Gotarrendura - Arévalo

An average-distance stage in a hot day, but it didn't matter to me as i started walking before 6 A.M. and did half of the stage before sunrise or, anyway, before the sunlight was strong.

In the first half of the stage we go through 3 little villages, but it was too early for the bars to be open; when i got to Tiñosillos, the fourth and the most populated of them, i found a bar open and could have my actual breakfast (i had brought in the albergue a "cafè con leche" from the bar in Gotarrendura the evening before, though, and i had it this morning along with some cookies).

After Tiñosillos the sun started to shine bright but almost all that part of the stage goes through pinewoods, so there's much shadow and the walking was EXTREMELY nice.

At first i wanted to sleep in the albergue of Arévalo and i had already called the local police yesterday, in order to understand how the admission works (it's a room in the local polideportivo, more or less in the area on our right while entering Arévalo, more than 1 km. before the centre of the town).
Instead, while passing by the polideportivo, i saw a big big crowd of teenagers there and decided to go to a more quiet accomodation: i went to the Hostal del Campo, where i met by chance the 3 french pilgrims who slept in Gotarrendura, and we took two twin bedded rooms, with private bathroom, for 45 €/room: not so cheap for a 2 star hostal!

The rooms were good, though, so i can enjoy some pilgrim luxury, today!

Along the stage i was overtaken by a group of 3 spanish cyclists doing the Camino but of course they were going to sleep much further than me.

After many days over stages perfectly waymarked, today i found a spot (maybe a km. or so after Hernansancho) where waymarking was missing: it didn't matter, though, as it's clear enough the Camino go almost in parallel with the carretera, joining it in the town thereafter.

The rest of the waymarking was very well done!
 
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Starting early means that all the bars of the places i passed by during the stage were still closed, as they open usually at 11 A.M.

Personally I have given up on finding anything open on this stage... I have done it twice, different days of the week, and never found anything... I know others have, but I don't know what day, or time of the day, they find those bars to be open... And I don't even rise that early from Ávila...
 
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Day 25: Arévalo - Medina del Campo

33 kms. under a cloudy sky that made the march very easy, as the temperatures were fresh all along the day.

The stage is very easy and comfortable; the last village before Medina del Campo, about 11 kms. to the end of the stage, has its bar open: it's the one along the highway.

The waymarking is very good all along the stage.

In Medina del Campo i stay in the youth hostel (albergue juveníl); they use to be open just from friday to sunday morning but, when weekend guests ask to sleep here also for sunday night, they stay open for one more night: and luckily tonight it was that case, so i can sleep here for €.13,92, breakfast included.
The albergue is located at the entrance of the town, not far from the Camino, and it's a really good one, with a lot of space for everything and very well maintained.

As there are very few guests here tonight, i was given a twin bedded room with private bathroom just for myself.

The 3 frenchmen that lately i met for several days didn't get to Medina del Campo because one of them couldn't walk for 33 kms.: maybe i can meet them again in Zamora, as i'm thinking to divide that stage (my last one, this year) in two days: i still have several days before my flight back to Pisa and now i can afford to walk short stages, instead to stay too many days in Madrid waiting for my flight (i already know Madrid very well)

Tonight i didn't notice any pilgrim in Medina del Campo but the town is rather big and i can't be sure to be the only one here.
If i am, the risk to be alone in these last stages to Zamora is quite high.
 
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...
In Medina del Campo i stay in the youth hostel (albergue juveníl); they use to be open just from friday to sunday morning but, when weekend guests ask to sleep here also for sunday night, they stay open for one more night: and luckily tonight it was that case, so i can sleep here for €.13,92, breakfast included.
The albergue is located at the entrance of the town, not far from the Camino, and it's a really good one, with a lot of space for everything and very well maintained.

As there are very few guests here tonight, i was given a twin bedded room with private bathroom just for myself....

I'm completely in awe how many pilgrims stay at this albergue juvenil. I mean I can understand that it is kind of the first option when you walk into Medina del Campo but it's almost kilometer away from the city center. And then there is a 10€ private rooms (shared bathroom but with was basin though) at the monastery just 50 meters from the Plaza Mayor without the curfew on the other hand. Just don't get it :)
 
I'm completely in awe how many pilgrims stay at this albergue juvenil. I mean I can understand that it is kind of the first option when you walk into Medina del Campo but it's almost kilometer away from the city center. And then there is a 10€ private rooms (shared bathroom but with was basin though) at the monastery just 50 meters from the Plaza Mayor without the curfew on the other hand. Just don't get it :)

I agree! :Oo
 
Sometimes i take strange decisions.

I didn't want to stay in the monastery just because i guessed i had to ring the bell everytime i went back to the room, just as in another monastery i stayed in a couple of weeks ago.

I know it's a very strange reason why...
:-D
 
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Day 27: Medina del Campo - Siete Iglesias de Trabancos

A rather short and easy stage in a day with a good weather for hiking: sometimes sunny, sometimes cloudy, always a light and fresh wind.

Stage well waymarked;
the town of Nava del Rey well positioned after 15 kms. from the starting point: just in time for breakfast!
;-)

I already wrote something over the albergue of Siete Iglesias de Trabancos in another thread but i want to underline once more tha both the welcoming and the albergue were very good.
The price for the night was 3 €.

I slept alone there; i knew only the day after that also a french pilgrim i already met before was in 7 Iglesias, but he slept in hostal El Volante for just €.15/night.
 
Day 28: Siete Iglesias de Trabancos - Toro

Stage a little harder than i thought in advance: in the first 15 kms., and above all in the stretch just after Castronuño, the Camino goes continuously up- and downhill with stretches short but sometimes steep.

Waymarking was good, with two exceptions:
1) 3,5 kms. after Siete Iglesias there is a Y-sized split: we have to take the right branch but that coldn't be obvious for a pilgrim as there isn't any indication to help.
2) just a km. or so before entering Villafranca del Duero we pass by a little house (on our left) with a painting about a scene of rural life on the whole front wall; just after it. we meet a crossroad and, as we see Villafranca just in front of us, we get we have to go either straight ahead or to the right: well, going right is the best option.

In Toro -a nice town indeed- i slept in Pension Zamora, in the very center of the town, as in the monastery of nuns "Sancti Spiritus" it seems they are telling they are "completo" to every pilgrim asking for a place.

I payed 20 €. for a twin bedded room for individual use, with shared bathroom, and it was satisfactory.

There were in the town also 3 "bicigrinos" from Holland and the frenchman who also was in 7 Iglesias.
 
I liked the Pensión Zamora, and the town of Toro generally. After 4 days walking in freezing fog, consommé with a slug of sherry followed by a rich warm stew at the bar Noche y Dias on the Plaza Mayor was very welcome and the Toro wine, strong but tasty, was warming as well. I don't usually like Toro wine, but enjoyed what I drank in Toro very much - perhaps they send their less good wine to England and keep the best for themselves.

PS They give you a key to the monastery in Medina del Campo, so there is no worry about disturbing people to get back inside.
 
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Day 29: Toro - Villalazán

This one should have been my last day walking as in my plans about this year's Camino i aimed to get to Zamora.

My holiday period lasts till june 6th and, despite i hadn't any drawbacks during my Camino, i knew from the begin i couldn't get to Santiago this year.

But:
- today the day is hot and it already was at 10 A.M.;
- the whole stage from Toro to Zamora is rather long (36 / 37 kms.);
- i wanted to be sure to have a place in the albergue in Zamora but i couldn't as i knew i was going to arrive late because of the length of my stage; besides, i have no idea about the numbers of pilgrims getting to Zamora by the Via de la Plata;
- when i got to Villazalán it was 10 P.M.and i met a kind woman who showed me the local albergue: and both the welcoming and the albergue were very nice;
- i wasn't in a hurry, as i still have some days before my flight from Madrid back to Pisa;
- i still feel like being a pilgrim for some more time!

So i decided to stop in Villalazàn, and now i'm happy i did it.

The albergue is in the old school, 100 mts. on our right while we are entering the village, just beyond the Bar Restaurant Avenida; in order to collect the keys we can ask in that bar: the lady who attends the pilgrims lives just two doors before the bar, in a white house along the same road.

The albergue is completely free: when asked, they say it's not even "donativo".

The very wide bedroom have 5 REAL beds (no bunkbeds in here) and lots of space, one shower, two toilets (one of which is currently out of order) and a huge patio.

All is PERFECTLY clean.

I had read on the web (i think it was on the spanish websites Gronze or Mundicamino, both about the Caminos de Santiago) that this albergue lacked hot water in the shower and electric sockets to recharge the batteries of our electric devices: both informations weren't correct.

There is plenty of hot water and 3 sockets: enough, for a maximum of 5 guests.

I haven't visited this small village yet, but until now i can tell at least that the bar restaurante Avenida offers a delicious menu for 10 €.

Good waymarking between Toro and Villalazán.

At 4 P.M. i still thought i was alone in the albergue until a group of 3 french mates, that i already met several times, decided to take a taxi from Toro till here after having walked this morning from Castronuño to Toro itself.
:)
 
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Maurizio I read your message in Albergue in higueruela today. Stayed only for a lovely shower ( from Alpera) then on to Hoya Gonzalo. I'll look out for your comments in all albergues now ! Thanks again for your notes. Grace
 
Day 30: Villalazán - Zamora

My last day walking Caminos, this year, and it was two days ago (i'm late in writing this post).

After my first Camino in 2009 my goal has not been anymore to get to Santiago: i prefer enjoying my way, either it gets to Santiago or not.

Though when i have to stop walking, like this hear in Zamora, and i see all the other pilgrims/hikers/mates keep on going, i feel a bit unconfortable.

And sad.

This year was no exception.

The last stage was very short and easy, along a flat and well waymarked itinerary.

I left Villalazán very early in the morning and then, just after 10 A.M., i got to the albergue in Zamora, where the hospitaleros allowed me to leave my backpack and walking sticks, so i could arrange several little things in the morning, in order to go to Madrid the day after.

The albergue actually opens to pilgrims at 2 P.M. and they are rather strict about this;
i think they could anticipate the opening at least at 1 P.M. in order to avoid the peak of pilgrims getting in alltogether.

I must also say that there was no one waiting outside before 1 P.M.: in fact the "recommended" stages ending in Zamora are rather long, either coming from the Via de la Plata or from the Camino de Levante, so most pilgrims can't arrive in the morning.

The albergue in Zamora is a very nice one, as it was in my memory about the two previous times i slept in here, and the hospitaleros were efficient, smiling and very kind.

The "fee" is "donativo" and i think guests should also value the welcoming (with water and lemon, oranges, biscuits) and the big breakfast we can have in the morning.

That day the albergue got complete and a (very) few pilgrims arriving (very) late had to find another accomodation: as just six from 30 were coming from the "Levante" it seems that the Via de la Plata is getting more and more busy nowadays and, remembering my experience in 2011, i can see why!

In Zamora there were other 5 pilgrims i met along my Camino de Levante and we had our "Ultima cena" (i like to quote Leonardo, as i live not so far from Vinci, his birthplace!) together, before going to our different destinations.

~.~.~

I have a lot of people to thank for my experience on the "Levante" then in the following days i'll add anotber post just to thank them.

Anyone else's experience and help were of a great importance for me to make this Camino as nice as it was!

 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Day 30: Villalazán - Zamora

My last day walking Caminos, this year, and it was two days ago (i'm late in writing this post).

After my first Camino in 2009 my goal has not been anymore to get to Santiago: i prefer enjoying my way, either it gets to Santiago or not.

Though when i have to stop walking, like this hear in Zamora, and i see all the other pilgrims/hikers/mates keep on going, i feel a bit unconfortable.

And sad.

This year was no exception.

The last stage was very short and easy, along a flat and well waymarked itinerary.

I left Villalazán very early in the morning and then, just after 10 A.M., i got to the albergue in Zamora, where the hospitaleros allowed me to leave my backpack and walking sticks, so i could arrange several little things in the morning, in order to go to Madrid the day after.

The albergue actually opens to pilgrims at 2 P.M. and they are rather strict about this;
i think they could anticipate the opening at least at 1 P.M. in order to avoid the peak of pilgrims getting in alltogether.

I must also say that there was no one waiting outside before 1 P.M.: in fact the "recommended" stages ending in Zamora are rather long, either coming from the Via de la Plata or from the Camino de Levante, so most pilgrims can't arrive in the morning.

The albergue in Zamora is a very nice one, as it was in my memory about the two previous times i slept in here, and the hospitaleros were efficient, smiling and very kind.

The "fee" is "donativo" and i think guests should also value the welcoming (with water and lemon, oranges, biscuits) and the big breakfast we can have in the morning.

That day the albergue got complete and a (very) few pilgrims arriving (very) late had to find another accomodation: as just six from 30 were coming from the "Levante" it seems that the Via de la Plata is getting more and more busy nowadays and, remembering my experience in 2011, i can see why!

In Zamora there were other 5 pilgrims i met along my Camino de Levante and we had our "Ultima cena" (i like to quote Leonardo, as i live not so far from Vinci, his birthplace!) together, before going to our different destinations.

~.~.~

I have a lot of people to thank for my experience on the "Levante" then in the following days i'll add anotber post just to thank them.

Anyone else's experience and help were of a great importance for me to make this Camino as nice as it was!
Congratulations, @moromauro !!!
I really hope you enjoyed Levante. For me it was one of the nicest inner experiences, so tranquil, unspoiled etc. And Zamora is a gem for itself, of course ;)
Safe return home!
 

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