On the Primitivo

[NualaOC]

We began our Camino Primitivo today. As I posted in another thread, this was a spur of the moment decision while we were walking the CF.

Thanks to everyone who weighed in with advice and thanks also to the members who have so generously shared their experiences on and advice about this Camino. We bought the Editorial Buen Camino guidebook in Oviedo yesterday. It seems to be very good and it has information about the alternative routes from Lugo. It's very heavy, though. Damian also put the TrekRight app on his phone and is finding the Primitivo maps to be very useful.

We've had one setback - I have a horrible tummy bug that has left me feeling pretty wretched. I managed to shuffle slowly to Grado today, but I might not be able to walk tomorrow. I'm so glad that we decided on a pension rather than the Albergue. I really need a room with a bathroom and I'd hate to pass this on to anyone else!

Apart from that little problem, we're loving the tranquility of this Camino. Hopefully I'll be able to walk a short distance tomorrow. We'll see.

 

[wayfarer]

Stay well Nuala.
Buen Camino.

 

[NualaOC]

Stay well Nuala.
Buen Camino.

Thanks Pat.

 

[peregrina2000]

Sending lots of get well vibes through cyberspace. Hope you can rest up, you don´t want to miss any of this glorious walk! BTW, if your walking pal/s are meat eaters and find themselves in Grado with an appetite, try Gran Feudo. Their "novilla beef burgers" were the best burgers I have had in years and years and years. Buen camino, Nuala

 

[timr]

We've had one setback - I have a horrible tummy bug that has left me feeling pretty wretched. I managed to shuffle slowly to Grado today, but I might not be able to walk tomorrow. I'm so glad that we decided on a pension rather than the Albergue. I really need a room with a bathroom and I'd hate to pass this on to anyone else!

Apart from that little problem, we're loving the tranquility of this Camino. Hopefully I'll be able to walk a short distance tomorrow. We'll see.

Oh dear, sorry to hear that. Get well soon...
Tim

 

[Anemone del Camino]

There was a post today warning of a virus on the Primitivo. Poster had symptoms of it in Campielo I believe. Ask the framacia for Metronidazol, works wonders, says the non medically trained.

Editorial Buen Camino is excellent. Take pictures of the pages and mail the guide home. I like the fact it is spiral bound and its comments about different places and situations.

 

[KinkyOne]

Garlic, garlic, red and fat meat, garlic, garlic, garlic, more meat, garlic, garlic, some bread, more meat, more garlic, rest and you'll be fine!
Won't smell that nice though

 

[timr]

Ask the framacia for Metronidazol, works wonders, says the non medically trained.

I do not doubt at all the sincerity of this advice, but if anyone is unwell, it is far better to seek advice of someone who is medically trained.
Such as the pharmacist at the farmacia. Or see a doctor: I saw a GP in Portomarin one year, the pharmacist gave me directions, I walked to the health centre, was seen and examined, and was out again with prescription from pharmacy in under two hours. There was a nominal charge for the drugs. The rest was free (for EU members).

I am a retired physician and would never prescribe an antibiotic, or anything else, for anyone I have not seen and examined. I do not prescribe for myself. Metronidazole (=Flagyl) would treat amoebic dysentery and giardiasis and some bacterial infections. It will have no effect on a virus. It does have significant interactions with other common drugs, so the prescriber should ascertain what other medication someone is taking before prescribing it. The single most important treatment in the case of a tummy bug would be to maintain hydration.

Last week at the UN Ban Ki-moon said antimicrobial resistance is a “fundamental threat” to global health and safety. A principle cause of antimicrobial resistance is unthinking prescription of antibiotics.

Nuala, I really hope you are feeling better today. You don't need to hear all this!!

 

[SYates]

@timr

Triple like! Buen Camino, SY

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Which is why I wrote "says the medically untrained"... as in check which those who are. But it does make miracles against viral poopooissues, just ask anyone whi takes dogs to dogshows regularly: they never leave home without it.

 

[timr]

But it does make miracles against viral poopooissues

It is probably time to draw a line under this conversation but if metronidazole is working against a virus, this is more miraculous than pharmacological!! St Francis, pray for us.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Which is why I wrote "says the medically untrained"... as in check which those who are. But it does make miracles against viral poopooissues, just ask anyone whi takes dogs to dogshows regularly: they never leave home without it.

Anemone may be right about the dog shows. My sister shows and breeds amazingly huge English Mastiffs. Sometimes I go to shows to help tote/carry/set up; if you watch some of the herbal sprays, salves, and such going on just before entering a ring, you'd swear you were at el mercado de brujos on sale day. Anything for Grand Champion.

 

[NualaOC]

Thank you everyone for your words of advice and support! I really appreciate it. I slept well last night and I seem to be on the mend. I decided this morning that I was probably well enough for a short walk to Cornellana, but in the end I was able to walk slowly to Salas.

Everything you all said about the Primitivo is true. It is so beautiful and peaceful. There are no bed races, so no need for ridiculously early starts. We met about 10 pilgrims today.

Onwards and upwards!

PS - @KinkyOne, your suggestion made me laugh. Although the very thought of it would probably send me running to the bathroom again!

 

[timr]

I slept well last night and I seem to be on the mend.

Nuala, really happy to hear this. Take it easy. Great that there is no overcrowding. In May I found there were just enough people for company (I was walking alone) and never so many as to cause any difficulty with accommodation. There is such a lot to appreciate on this route. Tim

 

[NualaOC]

Still on the Primitivo but not quite as we had planned. My little tummy bug turned into full-blown gastro-enteritis, so I spent all of yesterday in bed in Salas. We took a taxi this morning to the Centro de Salud in Tineo, where the doctor confirmed that I was doing all the right things and that the farmacia had given me the correct medications. He was very pragmatic and basically said that it will take as long as it takes.

It's a little frustrating that we will end up skipping parts of this amazing Camino, but we're getting a real sense of its beauty and we'll definitely come back again. Although my nature is to push myself very hard, I know that I can't walk until my symptoms abate and I get some nutrition into my body.

I'm not sure how things will work out over the next few days, but we're open to whatever needs to happen. Every Camino has its lessons and this one has already delivered a few. We're in good spirits today.

We've checked into the very nice Hotel Palacio de Meras - wow, such luxury for the pilgrim rate of €50. It also has an albergue.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Nuala,
I'm sure this is hard, even though there's no doubt this is the only thing to do. Great to see your spirits are high. You're in a good spot (if you want to see pilgrim splendor, head down to the Albergue for a look, it's pretty amazing). You can also use the spa, not sure if that appeals to someone with gastroenteritis though. Hope that you recover and still have time for a Primitivo Sampler. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[wayfarer]

Sorry to hear this Nuala, that tummy bug has taken out half of our parish. Get well soon and enjoy the rest of your Camino.

 

[timr]

Take it easy Nuala. Good that you have Damian along too. Get well soon. Tim

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Nuala - your camino 'family' love all your comments, and we are all hoping you'll be 100% very soon.
Plans can go astray .... it's my plan to walk the Primitivo next May, but you know what they say about plans ... "If you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans!"
If you can continue - wonderful.
If not - come back another day.
But don't stress yourself too much while you're unwell.
Blessings from sunny England.....

 

[NualaOC]

You're in a good spot (if you want to see pilgrim splendor, head down to the Albergue for a look, it's pretty amazing), Laurie

You're right Laurie, I have never seen an albergue like it! This whole place is so welcoming to pilgrims. We didn't plan to stay here, but I'm so glad that we did. The food is good too - I managed a little bit of lunch today.

Sorry to hear this Nuala, that tummy bug has taken out half of our parish. Get well soon and enjoy the rest of your Camino.

Thank you Pat, hope you manage to avoid it!

Take it easy Nuala. Good that you have Damian along too. Get well soon. Tim

Thanks Tim. And yes, I'm very lucky to have Damian looking after me. The past couple of days were probably worse for him than for me.

Plans can go astray .... it's my plan to walk the Primitivo next May, but you know what they say about plans ... "If you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans!"
If you can continue - wonderful.
If not - come back another day..

Thanks Stephen, that's definitely one of the lessons of this Camino. We now have no plan at all, other than somehow reaching Santiago by 13th October. I have let go of all my planner instincts and that feels very good!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Peg suffered from food poisoning and found that she could get Activa yogurt along the way and the pro-biotics in it seemed to help her get better.

Buen camino.

 

[NualaOC]

Peg suffered from food poisoning and found that she could get Activa yogurt along the way and the pro-biotics in it seemed to help her get better.

Buen camino.

Thanks Rick, that's a good idea.

 

[Seeker43]

Which is why I wrote "says the medically untrained"... as in check which those who are. But it does make miracles against viral poopooissues, just ask anyone whi takes dogs to dogshows regularly: they never leave home without it.

I don't want to appear disrespectful but please believe this: It does NOT treat viruses. I don't mean to say that your dog did not get better but please consider that the dog may have had giardiasis.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi folks, it's the high-maintenance Primitivo Peregrina again! We're still in Tineo and I'm feeling a lot better. I'm cautiously optimistic that I'll be able to walk tomorrow.

One (hopefully final!) question, and it's one that I never thought I'd be asking here. If you had to skip a section, what would it be? Or alternatively, what would you least want to skip?

We plan to walk to Campiello tomorrow and to Pola de Allande on Monday. After those short days, I think I'll be able to walk normal distances again. Although we've already skipped one section, we still might not be able to make up our lost time. I hate the idea of skipping any of it, but we'll probably need to think about that at some point soon.

We've been enjoying small-town life in Tineo today. Although the past few days have been tough, we've had happy times too.

 

[TG874]

We began our Camino Primitivo today. As I posted in another thread, this was a spur of the moment decision while we were walking the CF.

Thanks to everyone who weighed in with advice and thanks also to the members who have so generously shared their experiences on and advice about this Camino. We bought the Editorial Buen Camino guidebook in Oviedo yesterday. It seems to be very good and it has information about the alternative routes from Lugo. It's very heavy, though. Damian also put the TrekRight app on his phone and is finding the Primitivo maps to be very useful.

We've had one setback - I have a horrible tummy bug that has left me feeling pretty wretched. I managed to shuffle slowly to Grado today, but I might not be able to walk tomorrow. I'm so glad that we decided on a pension rather than the Albergue. I really need a room with a bathroom and I'd hate to pass this on to anyone else!

Apart from that little problem, we're loving the tranquility of this Camino. Hopefully I'll be able to walk a short distance tomorrow. We'll see.

Hi - I had to abandon my camino on the Primitivo because of the tummy bug ... are you sure it was a virus you had? I definitely had the virus (hospital in Tineo confirmed this and gave me very very good treatment) and about 10 other pilgrims I know had it too, we think we picked it up around Salas not as you did just after Oviedo - It is now Saturday so you must be better by now and hopefully walking confidently again!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi nuala, so glad you're feeling better. If it were me I would think about skipping the stage into Lugo or, of course, the stages on the Frances.

Wishing you a Buen camino!

 

[timr]

Hi nuala, so glad you're feeling better. If it were me I would think about skipping the stage into Lugo or, of course, the stages on the Frances.

Wishing you a Buen camino!

@NualaOC
Yes my recollection is of a bit of a long slog into Lugo (although I liked the city v much) and a bit of a slog up, up, up, into Fonsagrada. And even though it is not a big place, it took a bit of a detour to find the (rather nice modern) albergue Cantabrico. I remember it was a very hot day, so it may cloud my judgment.
The diversion through Friol to Sobrado probably not a good idea if you are not 100% as no facilities along the way, at all!
And I cannot speak for the section after Lugo.
It's not an easy question and it's not a very helpful answer either....
Anyway, good to hear that you are on the mend.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi - I had to abandon my camino on the Primitivo because of the tummy bug ... are you sure it was a virus you had? I definitely had the virus (hospital in Tineo confirmed this and gave me very very good treatment) and about 10 other pilgrims I know had it too, we think we picked it up around Salas not as you did just after Oviedo - It is now Saturday so you must be better by now and hopefully walking confidently again!

So sorry you had to abandon your Camino. I'm sure that was a big disappointment. Thankfully I didn't have that virus - just normal gastroenteritis.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi nuala, so glad you're feeling better. If it were me I would think about skipping the stage into Lugo or, of course, the stages on the Frances.
Wishing you a Buen camino!

@NualaOC
Yes my recollection is of a bit of a long slog into Lugo (although I liked the city v much) and a bit of a slog up, up, up, into Fonsagrada. And even though it is not a big place, it took a bit of a detour to find the (rather nice modern) albergue Cantabrico. I remember it was a very hot day, so it may cloud my judgment.
Anyway, good to hear that you are on the mend.

Thanks Laurie and Tim. I'll see how we go over the next few days and if needed, skip some or all of the stage into Lugo. That keeps things nice and simple. Really appreciate your input.

 

[seanmcauley]

Walked the Camino DEl Norte in July and saw the sign for th Primitavo but kept on the del norte, maybe another time. Mountain views must be great. Hope you are fit and well again. I see you are also from N. Ireland.

 

[Michael Caleigh]

I just came back from the Primitivo and all my fellow pilgrims that stayed in Bodanaya had the bug....and problems. They had to stay a couple of days in Campiello. I didn´t stay in Bodanaya and went straight on to the next village...Maybe that´s why none of us caught this.

Buen Camino and the best part of the Primitivo is yet to come. Hope you can make Hospitales....AMAZING

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I don't want to appear disrespectful but please believe this: It does NOT treat viruses. I don't mean to say that your dog did not get better but please consider that the dog may have had giardiasis.

Honnestly, bacterial or viral transmission/contamination? Who cares? In particular with regard to this thread.

Good old metronidazole is what my vets prescribe/recommends (know there is no way I am paying them the premium price for meds I can get elsewhere), and all the vets I know who breed and show dogs use, when this type of bowel issue arise. If no improvement is seen in 24-36 hours, we then look for something else.

But I am sorry to say, I am not taking any advice from the Internet, and especially a Camino forum, when it comes to my breeding programme. But thank you for your good intentions.

Back to Camino issues now perhaps?

 

[timr]

Hi folks, it's the high-maintenance Primitivo Peregrina again!

Maybe high-maintenance, but worth every penny!!

 

[SabsP]

Take care Nuala! I hope you are fully recovered by now. Don't know how I missed reading about your latest Camino...

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Nuala, do you want to walk the last 100km? Because if you don't, I would just walk what you call "shorter days" (my normal days) and stop when you join the Frances.

Otherwise, maybe the walk into A Fonsagrada after you cross into Galicia. Call a cab at the funky bar after you climb down from the Acebo. But that's 10 km or so only. Problem is that after A Fonsagrada there is a beautiful walk ( in the clouds when I was there) not to be missed.

At the bottom of that beautiful walk in a Meson, run by an Argentinian. You could call a taxi there to Lugo. Cadavo to Lugo was not particularly interesting. That would be a full day, even for you ;0) !

But I would walk those less interesting bits 100 times over anything after joining the Frances.

Glad you are feeling better!

 

[NualaOC]

Thank you (x 100) for all the kind words and the route suggestions. This forum is amazing! I had a few low moments today, but you've all helped to get me motivated again.

And BTW since I know absolutely nothing about canine health and welfare, I enjoyed that little side-trip too

 

[andy.d]

Hi Nuala
from one 'broken' pilgrim to another, I hope you are recovered and that you enjoy the rest of the Camino
prayers
Andy

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

imho the stage into Lugo from Cavado is rivaled only by the stage out of Bilbao for a stretch of road that could easily be missed. I would not miss the walk from Fonsagrada to Cavodo if possible...I agree with Anemone that the ruins of the pilgrim hospital above the clouds are spectacular...otoh, perhaps not worth it if your stomach is still iffy.
i hope you feel better, and I am going to steal the phrase high-maintenance peregrina

 

[Tia Valeria]

There are 3 buses a day from A Fonsagrada to Lugo. If you ask the times in the informaion office it is worth checking the times in the various villages. We caught the mid-day bus in Paradavella after eating in the 'Argentine' cafe-bar. There is also a bar in Paradavella where the bus stops. We took it to Cadavo but were only shortening the stage. There is a nearly morning and also an evening bus - but do check the times as this is information from 2012.

 

[NualaOC]

There are 3 buses a day from A Fonsagrada to Lugo. If you ask the times in the informaion office it is worth checking the times in the various villages. We caught the mid-day bus in Paradavella after eating in the 'Argentine' cafe-bar. There is also a bar in Paradavella where the bus stops. We took it to Cadavo but were only shortening the stage. There is a nearly morning and also an evening bus - but do check the times as this is information from 2012.

Thanks @Tia Valeria, this is really helpful. The plan is to keep walking (I walked to Campiello this morning) and skip something closer to Lugo if needed. It's really helpful to know that there's a bus option - it was hard to find this information online.

 

[peregrina2000]

There are 3 buses a day from A Fonsagrada to Lugo. If you ask the times in the informaion office it is worth checking the times in the various villages. We caught the mid-day bus in Paradavella after eating in the 'Argentine' cafe-bar. There is also a bar in Paradavella where the bus stops. We took it to Cadavo but were only shortening the stage. There is a nearly morning and also an evening bus - but do check the times as this is information from 2012.

Thanks @Tia Valeria, this is really helpful. The plan is to keep walking (I walked to Campiello this morning) and skip something closer to Lugo if needed. It's really helpful to know that there's a bus option - it was hard to find this information online.

OOOOHHHHHH, but the part between Paradavella and A Lastra is BEAUTIFUL, so gloriously bucolic and rural. There is in fact a little hamlet where a young guy is spending his summers trying to turn his ancestral family home into an Albergue. I know that Tia (?) and others have had a rough time on the ascent to A Lastra (because of mud), but now that the path has been changed to crushed gravel it is unlikely to be a problem in the muddy weather.

You'll figure it out, Nuala!

 

[NualaOC]

OOOOHHHHHH, but the part between Paradavella and A Lastra is BEAUTIFUL, so gloriously bucolic and rural. There is in fact a little hamlet where a young guy is spending his summers trying to turn his ancestral family home into an Albergue. I know that Tia (?) and others have had a rough time on the ascent to A Lastra (because of mud), but now that the path has been changed to crushed gravel it is unlikely to be a problem in the muddy weather.

You'll figure it out, Nuala!

Thanks Laurie, it's all falling into place and we shouldn't need to skip very much. I'm almost completely recovered and with the help of the amazing Ricardo of Albergue Casa Ricardo in Campiello, we're walking the Hospitales route today. He has arranged bag transport and a taxi for the first 5 kms. That allows a slightly later start and less strenuous day, without missing Hospitales.

I can't recommend Albergue Casa Ricardo highly enough.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thanks @Tia Valeria, this is really helpful. The plan is to keep walking (I walked to Campiello this morning) and skip something closer to Lugo if needed. It's really helpful to know that there's a bus option - it was hard to find this information online.

Glad you are feeling better @NualaOC - bus times here. Her-vei is the bus line. If shortening the stage into A Fonsagrada then taxi is the only option as no buses run between Grandas de Salime and A Fonsagrada.
One tip: If you decide that you need a taxi after leaving the bar Acebo (after Alto de Acebo) then find a roadside km marker so that the taxi knows where you are. We were approx 10kms out rather than the 5kms planned as the rain was horizontal and virtually sleet and the km marker distance would have helped.

 

[timr]

Thanks Laurie, it's all falling into place and we shouldn't need to skip very much. I'm almost completely recovered and with the help of the amazing Ricardo of Albergue Casa Ricardo in Campiello, we're walking the Hospitales route today. He has arranged bag transport and a taxi for the first 5 kms. That allows a slightly later start and less strenuous day, without missing Hospitales.

I can't recommend Albergue Casa Ricardo highly enough.

Great news Nuala.
I didn't stay in Campiello, but did have a meal at Ricardo's bar opposite the albergue. I felt a bit heretical for saying I preferred it to Herminia's just up the street, where I had to leave the bar/restaurant because of the crowds! Admittedly for Sunday lunch on Spanish Mothers' Day. Hard to begrudge them really.

 

[NualaOC]

Great news Nuala.
I didn't stay in Campiello, but did have a meal at Ricardo's bar opposite the albergue. I felt a bit heretical for saying I preferred it to Herminia's just up the street, where I had to leave the bar/restaurant because of the crowds! Admittedly for Sunday lunch on Spanish Mothers' Day. Hard to begrudge them really.

Both places are good, but they are quite different. Herminia has built a very successful business serving both pilgrims and local people. That must have required a lot of work and investment and she deserves credit for that. It seems to be a well-run operation.

Ricardo's place is a labour of love, built in the house where he was born. He has thought of everything that a pilgrim might need and created a happy little haven. The two people working with him have a similar mindset and nothing is too much trouble.

Worryingly, Ricardo expects pilgrim numbers on the Primitivo to rise significantly in the coming years. That would be a shame - it's perfect as it is.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

we must start telling everyone about the snorers and the bedbugs. please, everyone do their part!
Primitivo....keep the secret

 

[KinkyOne]

we must start telling everyone about the snorers and the bedbugs. please, everyone do their part!
Primitivo....keep the secret

I concure!
And admit that I'm a snorer and attracting bedbugs (last three years in a row). OK?

But decided not to walk any northern Camino for years after this rainy and windy and cold and muddy and ... and ... and... beginning of summer

 

[timr]

we must start telling everyone about the snorers and the bedbugs. please, everyone do their part!
Primitivo....keep the secret

Should we lay it on thick about the muddy stages too! They are perhaps an acquired taste

 

[SYates]

Nothing beats two pounds of clay-mud on each boot/shoe for a true Camino leg work out ;-)

Buen Camino with good weather, SY

 

[KinkyOne]

Nothing beats two pounds of clay-mud on each boot/shoe for a true Camino leg work out ;-)

Buen Camino with good weather, SY

 

[Michael Caleigh]

I had the best weather ever the last few weeks....13 days on the Primitivo without a drop of rain....but I snored like there was no tomorrow...

 

[timr]

I had the best weather ever the last few weeks....13 days on the Primitivo without a drop of rain....but I snored like there was no tomorrow...

Emphasise the snoring, and don't tell people the weather was good! - that will help to keep people away!!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

really guys, do we want to see crowds? more people than bears? Do we want someone to pave the Hospitales????
Primitivo...keep the secret
t-shirts and coffee mugs coming soon to my etsy shop

 

[Michael Caleigh]

I have never heard nor walked this mysterious Camino everyone is talking about here.....
I hope it will never change and stay as it is....

 

[timr]

really guys, do we want to see crowds? more people than bears? Do we want someone to pave the Hospitales????
Primitivo...keep the secret
t-shirts and coffee mugs coming soon to my etsy shop

I'm just starting Ruta Baztan - walking in the morning. I think if a bear was geographically challenged, I could meet one here. Not to mention young bulls.

 

[Michael Caleigh]

Bears? They called me the cow whisperer....

 

[NualaOC]

Bears? They called me the cow whisperer....

They told me that this morning

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

View attachment 29498

They told me that this morning

pictures like that are not helping the cause....

 

[Michael Caleigh]

I am whispering.

 

[KinkyOne]

I'm just starting Ruta Baztan - walking in the morning. I think if a bear was geographically challenged, I could meet one here. Not to mention young bulls.

Ahm, Tim, if I remember correctly a couple of years ago Slovenia sent two bears to the Pyrenees. I just don't remember whether that was on the French or Spanish side. Anyway, you might start practising some Slovenian while there if you meet them

Ultreia!