LIVE from the Camino On the Ruta Teresiana

[Rodney Kent]

I started on the Ruta Teresiana today. What a great day! To begin with views of Avila in the early morning as the sun was rising were spectacular. And I enjoyed that apart from the beginning few kilometres, most of the day’s walking was cross country following tracks and paths and local dirt roads.
I was fascinated to be walking in the countryside which felt somewhat remote and yet just over the hill was a motorway.
I saw no other walking pilgrims. There were two cycling. One heading in the same direction as me and the other heading to Avila just as I was arriving in Gotarrendura. The small villages I passed through were very quiet. Although Peñalba de Avila had a bustling bar. I kept going to Gotarrendura, though. A quiet, attractive village. A very friendly and helpful person at the Town Hall let me into the albergue. I’m the lone resident tonight.
If the next 4 days are like today I’ll be a very happy pilgrim. Today is shared with a Camino de Santiago route, but from tomorrow I’m on the Ruta Teresiana. While not an official Santiago route, I’d highly recommend it.

 

[Rodney Kent]

Oh wow, a long day, partly through my own mistake. I started on Gotarrendura this morning just on light. It was extra dark because of heavy clouds. And my memory of what the guidebook said was a bit askew this morning. Should have had it in front of me as I was leaving. So anyway I got mixed up in the other camino that runs through Gotarrendura and had to double back.
Once on the right path, an enjoyable day mostly. I love seeing the villages. They seem so neat and clean even when there are some obviously ruined places. Oso was good fun - sculpture; Papatrigo was the highlight which wouldn’t have happened if I had gone through it earlier - an older couple stopped me and asked about what I was doing. They invited to their home a few doors away for a cold drink. What a gorgeous home and so unexpected. From the street it’s a modest dwelling, but inside it’s like a Roman villa. I was given cold water and a chocolate then showed around. Fresh figs from the tree followed and then fresh peaches. People are so warm and generous. They then walked me to the tienda where I got a sello. We managed a fair conversation despite my poor Spanish. It is affirming to know that I do know a bit more than I thought.
Then further on in Narros de Salduena I got another sello from the tienda there. An afternoon storm was brewing and the young woman who spoke fair English suggested a shortcut. It saved me two kilometres and I only got rained on a little. I have an umbrella that clips to my pack and it was fantastic today - kept off both Sun and rain.
At the albergue in Fontiveros now. Basic set up, cots rather than bunks, but very clean and roomy. 10€.
See what tomorrow brings. Checking the guidebook now

 

[Philtration]

Interesting, a new camino to me. Thanks for posting. Looking forward to hearing more of your walk.

 

[Rodney Kent]

Day 3 - Fontiveros to Mancera de Abajo
A great day’s walk. Set off in the pre-dawn, my favourite time of day. A pretty easy 3.5 kms walk to Rivilla de Barajas. There’s a bar there but it wasn’t open at that hour. I’d had a good breakfast anyway. About 9.5kms then to Narros del Castillo. On the way walked passed the Castillo de Castronuevo.
A couple of bars were open in Narros. I went to Bar Kike. Basically couldn’t understand what the man said and he seemed to have strong opinions. It was a good resting place, though, as I was continuing on to Mancera de Abajo to make the day about 27-28 kms. Had a chat with some cyclists out for the day. Two spoke great English, one whom lived for 7 months in Brisbane Australia, my old home town.
The afternoon’s walk was about 14kms. And I loved every bit, even the final few kilometres wondering where Mancera could be. Just over this rise maybe? The vistas this afternoon were stunning. Rolling hills, gently though, fields being prepared for the next crop, cattle, oaks ready for Iberico pigs. And a majestic skyscape of clouds of shades of grey with blue peeping through. The clouds kept the sun from being too hot. Actually it was cooler today so pleasant walking. I reached Mancera about 3.15, went to the bar for the key to the albergue and then settled in. A helpful chap from the bar walked me back and turned on the electricity. On my lonesome again. The albergue has beds for at least 16, 2 showers, a toilet and handbasin, but no kitchen. It doesn’t look like it’s had much tlc recently. On the other hand no fee and no donativo. I’ll leave one anyway. A marvellous looking church in Mancera.
Early night tonight as tomorrow takes me to Alba de Tormes, 31kms. The Teresiana splits here into a northern and a southern route. The northern is too long for me, so south I go.
View attachment 156532

 

[Mycroft]

Day 3 - Fontiveros to Mancera de Abajo
A great day’s walk. Set off in the pre-dawn, my favourite time of day. A pretty easy 3.5 kms walk to Rivilla de Barajas. There’s a bar there but it wasn’t open at that hour. I’d had a good breakfast anyway. About 9.5kms then to Narros del Castillo. On the way walked passed the Castillo de Castronuevo.
A couple of bars were open in Narros. I went to Bar Kike. Basically couldn’t understand what the man said and he seemed to have strong opinions. It was a good resting place, though, as I was continuing on to Mancera de Abajo to make the day about 27-28 kms. Had a chat with some cyclists out for the day. Two spoke great English, one whom lived for 7 months in Brisbane Australia, my old home town.
The afternoon’s walk was about 14kms. And I loved every bit, even the final few kilometres wondering where Mancera could be. Just over this rise maybe? The vistas this afternoon were stunning. Rolling hills, gently though, fields being prepared for the next crop, cattle, oaks ready for Iberico pigs. And a majestic skyscape of clouds of shades of grey with blue peeping through. The clouds kept the sun from being too hot. Actually it was cooler today so pleasant walking. I reached Mancera about 3.15, went to the bar for the key to the albergue and then settled in. A helpful chap from the bar walked me back and turned on the electricity. On my lonesome again. The albergue has beds for at least 16, 2 showers, a toilet and handbasin, but no kitchen. It doesn’t look like it’s had much tlc recently. On the other hand no fee and no donativo. I’ll leave one anyway. A marvellous looking church in Mancera.
Early night tonight as tomorrow takes me to Alba de Tormes, 31kms. The Teresiana splits here into a northern and a southern route. The northern is too long for me, so south I go.
View attachment 156532

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[VNwalking]

I've had this camino on my long list for some time, knowing I'll probably not get to it. So really enjoying your account, @Rodney Kent .

Buen camino!

 

[rojasa]

I’m following with great interest, Rodney. Thanks so much for posting your daily pilgrimage as you walk! Buen Camino!

 

[ginniek]

I've had this camino on my long list for some time, knowing I'll probably not get to it. So really enjoying your account, @Rodney Kent .

Buen camino!

Likewise for me. I'm still thinking about doing it, when I finally finish the Frances (I'm doing it a section at a time, annually). My motivation is that one of my middle names is Theresa/Teresa from Confirmation, back in my early youth when I was still a Catholic.

 

[Rodney Kent]

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When I clicked on your attachment, I got this The requested page could not be found. What am I doing wrong?

I don’t know. It was a photo, which maybe didn’t upload properly.

 

[Rodney Kent]

Short post today. I’m done in. Today was so hard. A long day of 31 kms, however I was going okay in the morning and feeling good. Then at around the halfway mark the wind got up. It was so strong and right into my face. I made it to Alba de Tormes and I’m proud of myself and boy, was it hard work. About 16kms in the wind.
I got the certificate for finishing the Ruta Teresiana. Alba is a very pretty city. I had a look around the centre briefly. My feet were too sore. I had booked an apartment to stay in and it feels so luxurious after albergues. I’ve just watched an Australian win the Vuelta de España on tv.
On to Salamanca tomorrow where I finish this walk. The Camino de Madrid starting on 4 October.

 

[rojasa]

Short post today. I’m done in. Today was so hard. A long day of 31 kms, however I was going okay in the morning and feeling good. Then at around the halfway mark the wind got up. It was so strong and right into my face. I made it to Alba de Tormes and I’m proud of myself and boy, was it hard work. About 16kms in the wind.
I got the certificate for finishing the Ruta Teresiana. Alba is a very pretty city. I had a look around the centre briefly. My feet were too sore. I had booked an apartment to stay in and it feels so luxurious after albergues. I’ve just watched an Australian win the Vuelta de España on tv.
On to Salamanca tomorrow where I finish this walk. The Camino de Madrid starting on 4 October.

Enhorabuena, Rodney! Will continue to follow your journey with interest. Take care of those feet!

 

[VNwalking]

Well done.
And may tomorrow's walk be easier!

I would love to walk this with an older friend who has a strong connection with SantaTeresa. Is it possible to walk it in shorter stages, do you think?

 

[Rodney Kent]

Well done.
And may tomorrow's walk be easier!

I would love to walk this with an older friend who has a strong connection with SantaTeresa. Is it possible to walk it in shorter stages, do you think?

Thank you. I think it’s 20 kms and along the path of an old railway line. Gentle gradients.
You can walk in shorter stages. It takes a bit of organising and would probably be a mixture of albergues and private accommodation. The guide book I’m using is by Elle Beiling who is a member of the Forum. It’s excellent. She makes suggestions about possible alternative stopping places.

 

[Kirkie]

Short post today. I’m done in. Today was so hard. A long day of 31 kms, however I was going okay in the morning and feeling good. Then at around the halfway mark the wind got up. It was so strong and right into my face. I made it to Alba de Tormes and I’m proud of myself and boy, was it hard work. About 16kms in the wind.
I got the certificate for finishing the Ruta Teresiana. Alba is a very pretty city. I had a look around the centre briefly. My feet were too sore. I had booked an apartment to stay in and it feels so luxurious after albergues. I’ve just watched an Australian win the Vuelta de España on tv.
On to Salamanca tomorrow where I finish this walk. The Camino de Madrid starting on 4 October.

Following you, and happy to see your posts. Take care, enjoy the moments of respite, but you came a long way, so pace yourself, have a wonderful set of caminos!

 

[Rodney Kent]

A long post. I’m using this to reflect, so feel free to skip anything.

I’m in Salamanca at the end of this walk. What a beautiful city. I’ll rest up tonight and head off to look around the city tomorrow morning. My train leaves for Madrid at 3.30pm tomorrow.

Today’s walk was lovely. Until the last 3 kms my body felt fine. Feet got a bit sore on pavement walking into the city. I probably walked about 23 kms all up. The walk was along a disused railway track, like the Central Otago Rail Trail in New Zealand. Gentle gradients and pleasant views. One highlight was sitting having my lunch at a rest area imagining the battle in the Peninsular War that took place right where I was (Battle of Arapiles). In front of me was the hill where the English artillery were and behind me the hill where the French had positioned their artillery. And troops were amassed right where I was sitting. Incredible! The English and allies won (Duke of Wellington). This was during Napoleon’s leadership of France. One instance when the English and Spanish were on the same side.

Reflections on the Ruta Teresiana walk - well, I’m happy with the choice I made to do this walk. It was hard walking it in 5 days and I did it. I’m proud of myself. I mostly enjoyed the solitude. I was the only pilgrim and not speaking much Spanish was a challenge, but I was able to do what needed to be done. I’ve had plenty of practice having a go. I walk away thinking about what I could have said. All learning.
It was also a physical challenge. Long days to make it in 5 days. Were I to do it again I’d try to arrange a 6 day walk. I’ve realised around 22 kms +/- 2 is comfortable enough for me. I also found it difficult letting go of anxieties. I’d really planned well and greatly enjoy that, and on a daily basis when walking did find sometimes my brain wasn’t engaging and made mistakes or set me doubting myself. Tiredness and not being grounded enough. Work in progress for me.
Mostly the scenery was really pleasant, vistas of wide open countryside. Days 3 and 5 were particular highlights. I also will take great comfort from the kindness people showed. Not great acts, but the small acts between people. When you’re on your own and being challenged these small things take on greater significance.
I must thank Elle Bieling for her guide. It’s an outstanding help.

 

[Elle Bieling]

What a great time time for you, Rodney! I am so happy it was a successful walk and from your reflections, you have discovered more about yourself than you knew prior! The last stage beat me up too! Its too bad there is no accommodation in Garcihernández. That would make the walk perfect. Congratulation on a challenge well done! I'm so happy that I could assist you and your pilgrimage. Have a lovely continuing journey through Spain.
Elle

 

[rojasa]

Thanks Rodney. I like to think you were not entirely alone; some of us "walked" alongside you! Grateful for your posts, really helpful and enjoyable. Buen camino!

 

[ginniek]

What a great time time for you, Rodney! I am so happy it was a successful walk and from your reflections, you have discovered more about yourself than you knew prior! The last stage beat me up too! Its too bad there is no accommodation in Garcihernández. That would make the walk perfect. Congratulation on a challenge well done! I'm so happy that I could assist you and your pilgrimage. Have a lovely continuing journey through Spain.
Elle

I'm going to read your guide as soon as I can find it. Is it on Amazon? Thanks!!

 

[RodlaRob]

I've had this camino on my long list for some time, ....

Likewise for me! Great report thanks Rodney!
This will help with my 2024 planning.
2020 - Had planned Camino Teresiano+ some Torres .... but severe covid restrictions were applied, ...now plan to return to Europe ...VDLP March 2024.
....detour to Avila (to do Camino Teresiano)...onto Salamanca... (to do part of Camino Torres)....and then connect to Sanabres (connection point as yet not decided).... onto Santiago.
From vdlp i will use local public transport to bus across to Avila at some point & start with a tour as recommended by Elle.
Rodney (Adelaide).

 

[Rodney Kent]

I'm going to read your guide as soon as I can find it. Is it on Amazon? Thanks

Not Amazon. I think I saw reference to guide on this forum. I don’t remember, but the author Elle Bieling is member a the Forum and posted a message just above so send her a private message.

 

[Elle Bieling]

I'm going to read your guide as soon as I can find it. Is it on Amazon? Thanks!!

You can find it on my website, https://www.pilgrimagetraveler.com/camino-teresiano-ebook.html.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks so much for this great report. It occurs to me that this route would be easy to combine with the Camino de Torres from Salamanca to Braga, which is itself easy to combine with the Geira e dos Arrieiros from Braga to Santiago. The Torres/Geira combo is spectacular, and what could be better than adding on a few more days?!

 

[ginniek]

You can find it on my website, https://www.pilgrimagetraveler.com/camino-teresiano-ebook.html.

Thanks. I've already skimmed it. more in depth later.