Our Camino 2011

[Tia Valeria]

Our rucksacks are packed, our tickets are here and we are nearly ready to return to the Camino for our 2011 pilgrimage. We aim to walk to Santiago in about 8 days on the Camino Inglés. All we need now is a good ferry crossing and journey across northern Spain to Ferrol via Oviedo. As we have said elsewhere we intend to use the FEVE rather than the ALSA bus service.
Having prepared for cold weather, like last year, it looks as though it might be hot. Our latest training walks have been in very high temperatures carrying our fleeces and vests! All good practise and we do know the maximum we can carry comfortably.
Buen Camino to all others walking shortly

 

[Lydia Gillen]

Re: Camino 2011

Hi Tia Valeria,
Buen Camino
Lydia

 

[andy.d]

Re: Camino 2011

Go well you two.

One of my jobs this week is to sort out travel to the Ingles for October Half Term.

Andy

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thank you for the good wishes Lydia and Andy.
It looks as though the weather in Spain is cooler at present and at least Galicia is having less rain this week. We are praying for a calm ferry crossing as we said before and it looks as though we might get it by the present forecast.
Hope your own future plans go well.

 

[GregHoyland]

Re: Camino 2011

Hi Tia Valeria!
I'm a complete novice and set off in June for my first Camino. Can you tell me about the bus sevices you mention in your posting! What's the difference between the FEVE and the ALSA services? I have to get from Santander to Leon in June and am wondering about the best option.
Hope you have a fulfilling and rewarding time.
Greg

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hi Greg.
The FEVE is the narrow guage railway that runs across northern Spain. Railcars with toilet and 2 carriages. It takes 4 hours to get from Santander to Oviedo and there are 2 a day.You can search their website at http://www.feve.es/es/ and it works well. From Oviedo there are trains to Leon on the RENFE line. (Oviedo station is a bit confusing if you are not careful with RENFE one side of the stairs and FEVE the other.)

ALSA is the equivelent of National Express and runs from Santander to all parts of Spain. Their website ALSA works OK if you know the nearest large town to your destination, and then gives intermittent stops. The train and bus stations in Santander are next to one another (FEVE, RENFE, ALSA and other buses.
We found that the ALSA advice desk will give you a print out of times,costs etc (at least they did in Oviedo). In Oviedo again the bus and train stations are near enough next door to one another. I think there are buses direct from Santander to Leon but some appear to go through Oviedo anyway. Others will know this better than we do.

Part of your decision on which way is best might depend on your timescale and the bus or train times etc, aso whether you want to see the motorway (bus) or the scenic route (train). The RENFE trains may go direct to Leon, bit we don't know, our comments are based on meeting a pilgrim last year doing the FEVE/RENFE via Oviedo option when we were heading for the Camino Primitivo.

Hope you enjoy your planning and Buen Camino when it comes.

 

[GregHoyland]

Re: Camino 2011

Brilliant! Thanks so much. I've had a quick look at the web sites and they seem very helpful. Taking the ferry to Santander (which is quite a lengthy crossing) I guess I will be looking to get to Leon relatively quickly - keen to start walking the next day!
I'm really enjoying the planning - at the expense of all the work I'm supposed to be doing!!
Hope you have a great time and thanks for taking the time to reply as your departure must be imminent?
Very best wishes,
Greg

 

[Arn]

Re: Camino 2011

Greg...Welcome to the Forum and the Class of 2011!

As you've already noticed, the Forum is a great resource for information, connecting with past, present and future peregrinos, and just getting into the spirit of walking the Way.

Please consider keeping us informed as you make your Way.

Buen Camino,

Arn

 

[Tia Valeria]

Brilliant! Thanks so much. I've had a quick look at the web sites and they seem very helpful. Taking the ferry to Santander (which is quite a lengthy crossing) I guess I will be looking to get to Leon relatively quickly - keen to start walking the next day!
I'm really enjoying the planning - at the expense of all the work I'm supposed to be doing!!
Hope you have a great time and thanks for taking the time to reply as your departure must be imminent?
Very best wishes,
Greg

We know that feeling.
The ferry is a good way to start the Camino, time to unwind and leave the distractions behind and coming back it eases one back into daily life. If you haven't made your booking yet it lowers the price if you book 1 night in a Brittany Ferries hotel, either the first or the last. We are booked into the Hotel Carlos 111 in Santander that way. It makes it a package tour not just a return ferry crossing and saved us about £60 on the return ferry fare for 2, plus saving the hotel cost so about £120 saving in total. This might be different in June but certainly works in May.
We are blessed this year by having sufficient time to travel by FEVE to Ferrol rather than Coruña by bus

 

[Tia Valeria]

Greg...Welcome to the Forum and the Class of 2011!
.............................
Buen Camino,

Arn

Oops, sorry I didn't mean to make this look like 'Class of 2011', so I've tweaked its title a bit.
Thanks again for the encouragement and questions. We'll post and read your comments or further questions when we can.
Greg, can we ask where abouts in York do you live? PM us if you prefer. Terry went to school there.
Buen Camino folks

 

[GregHoyland]

Thanks Arn! I'll keep you posted as much as possible. Just been saying to Tia Valeria that the Forum is quite addictive - first thing I do in a morning is log on and see what's happening! Beats work - which means I'm going to have to be more disciplined and ration my use of it!
The wealth of information among the Camino community (as well as wildly varying opinions on some things!) is brilliant - really helpful and encouraging.
Best wishes,
Greg

 

[Tia Valeria]

Yes we know what you mean Greg about checking the forum. Fun, informative and friendly. However one of the nice things about being on the Camino will be the break from technology, we are only taking simple mobile phone (we have nothing else). If we see an internet café where we are staying we will check the forum and post here, even if it is behind hand. We can always catch it up when we get home. The same with the blog, photos etc.

Our walk today was about 8km, full packs including our cold weather gear and water, in just over 2 hours as we stopped for a coffee half way round. Part through woods, part on country roads,sunny with a cool wind. Just right for walking. Hopefully we might get weather like this after all the rain Spain has had lately. If not, after last year, we know our wet weather gear works.

Ready to be off............

 

[Caminando]

Brilliant! Thanks so much. I've had a quick look at the web sites and they seem very helpful. Taking the ferry to Santander (which is quite a lengthy crossing) I guess I will be looking to get to Leon relatively quickly - keen to start walking the next day!
I'm really enjoying the planning - at the expense of all the work I'm supposed to be doing!!
Hope you have a great time and thanks for taking the time to reply as your departure must be imminent?
Very best wishes,
Greg

We know that feeling.
The ferry is a good way to start the Camino, time to unwind and leave the distractions behind and coming back it eases one back into daily life. If you haven't made your booking yet it lowers the price if you book 1 night in a Brittany Ferries hotel, either the first or the last. We are booked into the Hotel Carlos 111 in Santander that way. It makes it a package tour not just a return ferry crossing and saved us about £60 on the return ferry fare for 2, plus saving the hotel cost so about £120 saving in total. This might be different in June but certainly works in May.
We are blessed this year by having sufficient time to travel by FEVE to Ferrol rather than Coruña by bus

Good stuff Tia, and you mention your savings on the ferry. But isn't the cost of this crossing pretty eye-watering?

 

[mikevasey]

Hi Valerie, Buen Viaje to you and Terry, hope the ferry crossing is a nice one.

Mike

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thanks for the good wishes Mike.

........... you mention your savings on the ferry. But isn't the cost of this crossing pretty eye-watering?

This depends on many things, not least that we live right near the ferry port. For us it would work out more expensive to fly - with return travel to the airport, hotel bill etc. Only just over £400 (return) including a night in a hotel in Santander and an (upgraded) outside cabin with shower seems good value by comparison. This is our joint fare.
It may not work so well for solo passengers as the cabins are all based on at least 2 people, on one ticket, sharing. However there are some reclining seats but we have never priced them, although they are cheaper, and may not discount with a hotel.

 

[mikevasey]

However there are some reclining seats but we have never priced them, although they are cheaper

Hi Valerie, when i got the ferry to Santander to walk Norte from there, i think i paid £63 in total for ferry and reclining chair, however i decided to bite the bullet once i was on board and upgraded to a cabin, about £140 all together for a single person one way.

Mike

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thanks for that info Mike. It sounds then as though adding in a hotel might help solo travellers as well as couples. Maybe someone will try it sometime and we'll get to know. It does mean making the booking by phone I think, but the saving is worth it if you have worked out your needs on the internet booking system without actually finalising it. (Brittany Ferries policy is that the charge is the same however booked.)

 

[Caminando]

Thanks T

You've certainly captured the right package for the start of your journey. Have a nice CI.

Buen camino

 

[sillydoll]

Tia - are you planning to take 8 days to walk from el Ferrol to Santiago?
It is usually a 5 day walk - with a couple of long days in between because there is nowhere to stay in between long stages. If you want to take it slow - you might have to get a taxi to collect you at the half-way mark of the long stage days and take you back to where you came from, or forward to the next town.
It will be interesting to see how you manage an 8 day walk. I'm sure many pilgrims would like to follow in your footsteps!
Have a great walk.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hi Sil,
Thanks for the encouragement. Yes we are planning on taking the longer time and without using taxis. We plan a diversion after Cos, through Abegondo (San Marcos), where there appears to be accomodation. We'll then heading west through Beade to cut the Coruña arm of the Inglés and then to Méson do Vento. I can manage 16km a day happily, but 20km is about my limit. Terry averaged about 20km a day on the Primitivo 2 years ago.
We'll make sure Johnny Walker knows if we find the detour is viable for those who would find the 5 day Camino too much, especially the Betanzos-Bruma stage.
Present plan is:-
Ferrol-Neda
Neda- Pontedeume
Pontedeume-Miño (?)
Miño-Betanzos
Betanzos-San Marcos (Abegondo)
San Marcos-Méson do Vento
Méson do Vento-Ordés
Ordés-Sigueiro
Sigueiro-Santiago
We might decide to walk Pontedeume to Betanzos in one day. It all depends on what there is to see on route as well as the actual walking time. We'll see how it goes

 

[Tia Valeria]

We had a very good crossing from Plymouth to Santander. A good night and then on the FEVE to Oviedo.
If you are over 60 and have the right documents it is possible to buy a Tarjeta Azul (3 euros) which then gives half price fares. Brilliant.
We had a good day round Oviedo visiting the chapels on Mount Naranco and the Camara Santa.
We then travelled on to Ribadeo for another night before continuing our journey to Ferrol to start walking. All on the FEVE
More to follow when we find a free internet.
Buen Camino to all

 

[Caminando]

We had a very good crossing from Plymouth to Santander. A good night and then on the FEVE to Oviedo.
If you are over 60 and have the right documents it is possible to buy a Tarjeta Azul (3 euros) which then gives half price fares. Brilliant.
We had a good day round Oviedo visiting the chapels on Mount Naranco and the Camara Santa.
We then travelled on to Ribadeo for another night before continuing our journey to Ferrol to start walking. All on the FEVE
More to follow when we find a free internet.
Buen Camino to all

Glad you had a good crossing.

Por favor, what are the 'right documents' for the Tarjeta Azul?

Buen camino

 

[madrid12]

Tia Valeria
Enjoy your camino, we have just returned from the CI using the Feve, staying at Cudillero and Ortigueria before going on to Ferrol, it was a really interesting journey, coming back we stayed at Luarca and Aviles before going back to Asturias airport. The CI was very good, although very wet for Semana Santa, but most of the churches were open.
Keep us informed.
Saludos, Liz

 

[Tia Valeria]

Caminando
Por favor, what are the 'right documents' for the Tarjeta Azul?

Buen camino

We had to show our passports to prove our age. The only thing we wouldn´t be sure is if you have to be from the EU, or if it is possible for anyone who is over 60.

 

[Tia Valeria]

We are doing well. We had 3 good days using the FEVE, breaking the journey between Oviedo and Ferrol at Ribadeo as planned.
We walked from Ferrol to Naron (12.8kms), then next day to Pontedeume. We made that another 18kms, much longer than the guide says. The walk on from there to Miño is the 12km the guide gives and we went to the albergue. This is now 5 euros each and you get a disposable sheet and pillow case.
So far the weather too has been kind. The only real rain has fallen when we have been inside eating!! Although we did have a few showers between the motorway services and Cabañas. Ponchos on and off a couple of times.
We are glad that we are taking it slowly with time to look around and into some of the churches as we pass.

 

[Tia Valeria]

We have arrived safely after taking 9 days from Ferrol to Santiago. We have been to the Cathedral and to the Pilgrims´office for our Compostelas and to the Pilgrim´s Mass.
No blisters, great weather for walking and much joy on arriving. We can recommend the Hostal Linares. Wonderfully quiet and not far from the Cathedral.
The only problem has been finding internet access, but we can post more here and on our blog later.
Buen Camino to all walking at present

 

[GregHoyland]

Congratulations! Glad you've had a good time. Five weeks today I should (DV) be in Leon ready to start out for SDC! Just a quick question if you have time (don't worry if not) - do you get the Tarjeta Azul from the FEVE ticket place? And thanks for the tip re: the hostal in SDC.
Stay well!
Greg

 

[TerryB]

Yes Greg, we just asked in the ticket office in Santander station. We needed our passports and paid €3 each. That gave us instant half price tickets and a little blue card for future use. It would be interesting to know if RENFE does similar.

Blessings on your walking
Terry

 

[GregHoyland]

Thanks Terry. A colleague has told me that he thinks RENFE does a Tarjeta Azul for over 60s but it only attracts discounts of 25% - 30%. Are you still in SDC? If so, enjoy! (If not - enjoy anyway!)
Greg

 

[Tia Valeria]

The walls of Lugo are wonderful. We are working our way back to Santander and the ferry. Then we will try to put some thoughts together along with some photos, here and on our blog
Buen Camino

 

[Tia Valeria]

Somewhere Johnnie Walker has commented on the Pilgrims´Office being more strict about 2 sellos per day even on the Camino Inglés. Not sure which thread. Twice we asked people to sign and date our credentiales, in Cos and just outside Segueiro. That seemed acceptable and we had no trouble getting our Compostelas.
Some people who passed us on the Way claimed to have walked what seemed impossible distances in the time, unless they walked on the main roads and cut the kms down somehow. A real problem for the good folk in the Pilgrim Office I think.
Buen Camino all

 

[jl]

Yes Tia V, Johnnie Walker does say about the importance of 2 stamps for the last 100 kms. We (here in Aust) have been talking to him about telling our folk who have our (new!) credential about the importance of this.

Some people who passed us on the Way claimed to have walked what seemed impossible distances in the time

Reading this I must make a comment about my last Camino. I walked one of those "impossible" distances on my penultimate day. Because I was feeling good, because I wanted to see certain things (like the forest from Arca) in daylight, because I had time - and most of all - because I could - I walked every step of the way from Melide to Monte de Goza in the one day. It did take me a long time - I didn't get into the albergue until 9.15p.m. - but that was partly because I dawdled along stopping and chatting to people, singing in the churches that were open, and even stopping to send messages to friends back home. I did, on that day though, get sellos from all the usual places along the way where I had stopped on previous Caminos, as well as a few others for good measure. I walked the last few kilomtres with a spanish man who had walked from the monastery (Sobrado de Moxes) on the Camino del Norte, which was praobably about 65 kms or thereabouts. we were both very tired as we climbed the hill, but chatting and comparing notes those last few kilomtres flew by and we arrived feeling quite exhilarated from our acheivment.

I wouldn't reccomend that for everyone and it was a spur of the moment decision to walk that distance, but if you had asked me if it was possible earlier on my Camino I would have said no, but because this was the last 55 - 60 kms of 2,000 kms it really didn't seem that impossible when doing it.

Janet

 

[fsam33]

Janet,
Thanks for the Aussie campostellas for my sister and I . I have covered them with clear contact so they will stay pristine for the walk. They look fantastic, congratulations. Perfect size too!
We leave in 36 hours, feeling a bit overwhelmed, and missing my bed already.

I'm interested, what was the 2,000 k camino you did?
Frances

 

[jl]

Hi Frances, I walked from Troyes (sth east of Paris) to Vezelay then to St Jean and out to Bayonne, from there and along the Camino del Norte and along the Primitivo.

Glad you like the Aussie Credential - you're the first - congratulations! Keep us all posted on your journey. Buen Camino Janet

 

[Tia Valeria]

We are finally home again and reflecting on our time on the Camino. Starting to look at our photos and the memories they bring.
The weather was just right for walking most of the time. One very warm humid day and some heavy rain but, apart from one shower, only when we were inside eating.
We met several other pilgrims along the Way, including the group of 6 aiming to walk in just 3 days!! They were the ones who said they had walked from Ferrol right through to Miño by about 5pm. The lads still looked as fresh as though they had just started but the girls looked a bit weary. I don't know what time they had set out. Another couple were hoping to walk through in 4 days and later (in Segueiro) we also met another couple who had walked through from Bruma and went on to Santiago without stopping. (One wanted to stop but the other didn't.) Then there were 2 who had someone transporting their packs and only carried light day bags. They were very impressed that we were carrying everything.
The other group of 3 that we met several times between Meson do Vento and Calle de Paulo (over cafe con leche and bocadillos) were taking their time and enjoying the scenery and surroundings and saying with laughter that they weren't in a race.
We also enjoyed time talking to the locals (in Spanish) and met some in unexpected places who had worked in England and spoke English.
Each to their own timing but I am glad that we took the time we did and have memories of the places at which we stopped. It was within my capabilities with time to walk and also look around each day.
Hardest part? the climb out of Pontedeume from the Hostal Norte. By comparison the stretch beyond Casa Julia that Johnny Walker warns about is much easier on the feet. I managed that, steadily, without stopping.
The Pilgrims' Mass on the Monday was wonderful and we returned on the Tuesday to hear ourselves 'read out'. Then we went out to look round Santiago and see the Dia de Galicia festivities. Bagpipes, tambourines and dancing on the street corners, all in traditional dress.
When we are more 'sorted' we'll post some photos here as well as on the blog.
Buen Camino to those walking now
Tia Valeria

 

[daesdaemar]

We are finally home again and reflecting on our time on the Camino. Starting to look at our photos and the memories they bring.
The weather was just right for walking most of the time. One very warm humid day and some heavy rain but, apart from one shower, only when we were inside eating.
We met several other pilgrims along the Way, including the group of 6 aiming to walk in just 3 days!! They were the ones who said they had walked from Ferrol right through to Miño by about 5pm. The lads still looked as fresh as though they had just started but the girls looked a bit weary. I don't know what time they had set out. Another couple were hoping to walk through in 4 days and later (in Segueiro) we also met another couple who had walked through from Bruma and went on to Santiago without stopping. (One wanted to stop but the other didn't.) Then there were 2 who had someone transporting their packs and only carried light day bags. They were very impressed that we were carrying everything.
The other group of 3 that we met several times between Meson do Vento and Calle de Paulo (over cafe con leche and bocadillos) were taking their time and enjoying the scenery and surroundings and saying with laughter that they weren't in a race.
We also enjoyed time talking to the locals (in Spanish) and met some in unexpected places who had worked in England and spoke English.
Each to their own timing but I am glad that we took the time we did and have memories of the places at which we stopped. It was within my capabilities with time to walk and also look around each day.
Hardest part? the climb out of Pontedeume from the Hostal Norte. By comparison the stretch beyond Casa Julia that Johnny Walker warns about is much easier on the feet. I managed that, steadily, without stopping.
The Pilgrims' Mass on the Monday was wonderful and we returned on the Tuesday to hear ourselves 'read out'. Then we went out to look round Santiago and see the Dia de Galicia festivities. Bagpipes, tambourines and dancing on the street corners, all in traditional dress.
When we are more 'sorted' we'll post some photos here as well as on the blog.
Buen Camino to those walking now
Tia Valeria

I did the CI last year. Your descriptions bring back pleasant memories. Thanks!

 

[Tia Valeria]

England is very cold!!! However I have washed our Camino clothes in a machine, it seems funny not having to wash out at least the undies and liner socks each night.
We have looked through our photos and started to put the first ones up on the blog. We'll choose some to post here too, just to help those memories along.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Although we finally did not go round by Abegondo we did hear about 2 places to sleep between Betanzos and Bruma. They probably need checking out and commenting on.
According to 4 (male) Spanish pilgrims it is possible to sleep in the Centro Social, by the church of San Esteban, in Cos and then further on, at the Bar Zapatero in Leiro, to ask for the key to the Colegio in Leiro - 4 beds only.
In Pontedeume there is a new albergue, in the centre of a row of old sheds in a tile roofed stone building on the front. Take the first right off the roundabout at the end of the bridge and walk along the marine walk for a few metres until you see it. At the time we passed it was the only new door in the centre of the row. Tel no provided to call the hospitalero, 981 433 039, between 19.30 and 21.30.
Tio Tel and Tia Valeria

 

[n.white51]

Congratulations on walking your Camino, have really enjoyed reading all the posts.

We are off on the CI, in just over 6 weeks on July 14th so we have been getting in
a lot of walking this last wek as we have been on holiday, its been great fun, so I'm
sure the Camino Ingles for us first timers will be just as good.

Congratulations once again.

Neil & Brenda White

 

[Arn]

Tio Tel and Tia Valeria,

Johnnie Walker is a wonder when it comes to the CI, but you have broken new ground. Your insightful postings, spot on suggestions and recommendations have clarified and "made doable" a CI that's neither sprinkled with long legs or missing valuable sites to enjoy, rather than pass bye.

Thank you both for being such a strong member of the Forum and an example of a can do spirit.

Arn

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thanks for the kind comments Arn. We have benefited so much from the help and comments of others, so hope we can help in turn.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Some more about our time on the Camino Inglés.
As we said earlier we took several days to travel across Spain to Ferrol, arriving there on Friday 6th May. We went to the Pension Zahara where we were able to find a room for the night and collected a sello, then almost round the corner to find the information office. Our credenciales were stamped for a Saturday start with much enthusiasm that we had Johnny Walkers guide.
We thought we would walk down to the harbour to look round and then decided to follow the waymarks back as far as Avda de Esteiro, so starting our Camino, before returning to the Pension.

Saturday 7th. To Naron, 12.8kms. We had a snack at the cruceiro+Cristo and lunch (Spanish time) in Naron, before it started to rain! We had phoned ahead and stayed in the Hotel Kensington - almost opposite the FEVE station of Xubia we had passed through yesterday.

Sunday 8th Being Sunday the first open cafe we passed was the Café Bar Hermida about 3kms from the albergue at Neda. (Facing you on a bend as you come uphill.) Excellent cafe con leche and a free gift from the lovely lady behind the bar:- a notebook and little pencil with a rubber. We accepted one between us rather than one each. Our next coffee was at the motorway cafe which we found friendly. Very heavy rain while we were inside and still damp enough to get our ponchos out briefly when we left. We stopped for lunch in Cabanas as places were begining to close. A good decision as it absolutely poured with rain while we were inside. Dry again by the time we left to cross the bridge into Pontedeume where we found the Cafe Bar Norte, just closing, and a bed for the night. (18kms today on the pedometer)
There is a new albergue we later found to the right of the bridge in the middle of a long stone building with several doors. Telephone for the hospitalero between 19.30 and 21.30.

More later

 

[Tia Valeria]

Monday 9th The hill out of Pontedeume is a killer!!!! Granite setts and tarmac for 1½kms up a very steep hill and round steep corners. The Camino then passes through wonderful smelling eucalyptus woods and finally downhill into Miño. 12kms total today.
We phoned the hospitaleros to say that we were having lunch and they met us at the albergue at 14.30 to book us in (5 euros) and give us our disposable sheet and pillow case.
After a siesta we went down into the kitchen and were joined by another couple, from Extremadura. We went for a walk and found an internet cafe then bought bread, cheese and a tin of peaches for tea. Back at the albergue a group of 6 were also arriving who said they had come from Ferrol that morning. At least one other pilgrim arrived as we went to bed. Quite a merry throng, but very quiet night's sleep. The only noise was the enormous mosquito, which only got in one nip before I got it.

Tuesday 10th Miño to Betanzos (13.4kms) is also uphill but much better than Monday out of Pontedeume, even if the last stretch into Betanzos itself is so steep. The Camino passes through woods and also has some lovely views. We stayed in the Chocolateria which seems a bit run down. However with use of the kitchen area and washing line we were quite happy. Lunch in town and bought DIY supper, as well as food for Wednesday as we could use the fridge.
In view of the weather forecast and learning that the hotel we had hoped to use was an 11km walk to finish up only 5km out of Betanzos we decided it was best to call ahead to Meson do Vento after all.

 

[cmsmith]

Tia and Greg:

I am fascinated by the York connection that may be developing. As I mentioned in another post--probably another thread--my son and I will do the CI in September, our first. We are doing so because he has been accepted at the Univ of York and will start a Master's degree program there in October at the Centre for Medieval Studies.

 

[GregHoyland]

Hi CM! I lecture (Theology) at the other university in York - but the MA in Med Stud is a great course and there are superb resources in both universities and the city/region. I've been in York nearly 25 years - great place! I was walking past York Minster last week (as I do every day on my way to work) musing on the fact that around the time they started building the present structure Francis of Assisi was reputedly doing the Camino!
I am off a week on Saturday (18th) - getting a little anxious, partly about what it will be like and partly about how much work I've got to shift before then.
It would be good to meet up post Camino to compare notes?
Buen Camino
Greg

 

[Tia Valeria]

Tia and Greg:

I am fascinated by the York connection that may be developing.......

Welcome to the forum. Yes, quite a Yorkist group collecting.
Terry says here is a 'useless' (?) piece of information:- The lake at York University is the largest artificially (plastic) lined lake in Europe. I studied History at 't'other place' .
Recommended reading, if you can find a copy, 'How I became a Yorkshireman'.

Buen Camino all

 

[GregHoyland]

When I trot out bits of information like that Terry my youngest daughter always asks "Why do you know that?"!!
G

 

[cmsmith]

Greg:

My son and I will be in York after September 10 to drop off his clothes, books etc. for the year before we set off for our walk. Can't see carrying that on the Camino. If you would consider getting together then, we would appreciate hearing your stories. After our camino, I will not return to York but go directly back to the US. Perhaps we could PM in August--if I can figure out how as I am new to blogging.

In the meantime, Buen Camino. I hope you can share as much about your trip as Tia did. It is very helpful to those of us still planning.

CM

 

[Tia Valeria]

There is still more to share, so to continue the saga:-

Wednesday 11th We walked from Betanzos to Casa Julia , 19.6kms, to the Sanctuario de Pelayo (Vilacoba) at the bus stop just below Casa Julia (closed).
We had left Betanzos with food and water for the day as advised in the guide, and it was all needed. It was warm and we had drunk 3lts of water between us by the time we reached Vilacoba, plus sucking oranges.
We ate an early lunch outside the church of San Esteban in Cos, where we talked to a lovely Spanish couple who kindly signed our credenciales as we couldn't see anyone around for a sello.
Then we followed the Camino along forest paths, stopping at the bridge at Presedo for a snack (croissants, apples and another orange.
We passed the 54.9km mojon (most have lost their plates), then along tracks again reaching Casa Julia at 3.30. We phoned Méson Novo as arranged and sat in the shade at the bus stop beyond Casa Julia. Not long to wait and we were soon shown our room and having drinks and then a siesta.
The folk at Meson Novo are wonderful and returned us to the bus stop, plus packs and supplies, to continue walking next day. (Note this is not a free service, but we felt it worth the cost.)


Later along the route we met folk who said that it is possible to sleep in the Centro Social, by the church of San Esteban, in Cos. Also further on they said you can go to the Bar Zapatero in Leiro and ask for the key to the Colegio (4 beds). The guide does not take you past these but hopefully they can be checked out sometime) especially the Leiro option.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thursday 12th Back to the bus stop below Casa Julia to walk to Méson do Vento. We carried our packs plus food and water. This was to be able to honestly say we had walked all the route.

It took 50 minutes from the fuente to the top of the steep stretch, but that includes stopping briefly at the church and at the view points to take photos. We managed the steepest part of the hill to the farm buildings without difficulty.
Terry walks quicker and stops for a breather, then sets off as I catch up. We had agreed this beforehand. I just keep plodding steadily on and, once 'wound -up' to walking speed, prefer to just keep going. If I needed to stop I woud have called to him as he kept me in sight. It works for us. When he finally stopped at a bend I said 'I'm not stopping' and he said 'We're up'.
We sat in the picnic area for a drink and snack bar, and put our fleeces on to keep the wind off as it ws chilly. The weather was cloudy and breezy all day, lovely for walking. Then on to Vizoño to the cafe/bar for a café con leche. It was here that we met the folk who told us of the beds in Leiro. We ate 'lunch' on the hilltops and then walked into Meson do Vento and the 'La Ruta' for a steak before going back into the Meson Novo. (13kms total)
Lovely hot showers and we asked if we could use the washing line to dry our clothes. (Easiest wash and dry all week).

Friday 13th We walked to Calle de Poulo and the Bar Cruceiro (13.5km). The first bar, by the 'Pilgrim' was closed when we tried the door, but opened while we were taking photos. We think they heard us. So back we went for cafe con leche and were soon joined by 3 young Spanish pilgrims. We saw them twice more at 'Bar Novo' where we all had bocadillos (very good too) and again at the 'Cruceiro'. They too were taking their time and said that they did not want to rush and make their Camino a race. Most of the others we have met have been rushing through for one reason or another.

A good mix of road and track but there is a long stretch after Bar Novo with no arrows, about 1.5kms, before there is a waymark to the left onto a track (house on left) over a little bridge and then a waymark right onto a shaded track.
We passed the 40km mark on today's route. Back to Meson do Vento for a final night. In fact we could probably have walked easily into Ordés but had already arranged to go back and needed to pay the bill!!

 

[Josefine]

Hi Tia,
I have been following your posts on the Inglés and I am happy for you that all went well and you could enjoy your Camino. On June 26 I start the same Camino from Ferroll, my intention is to walk for 5 days and stay in the albergues when possible. The new one in Pontedeume is really good I heard and the hospitalero in Bruma very helpful.
Last year your (yours and Terries) postings on the Primitivo were a great help to me before I started out in Oviedo, it seems this year you help me out with the Ingles..... lets see if me make the same choice for 2012
Josefine

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Josefine,
We had a wonderful time and hope that you do too.

One thing we learnt:- when the guide says 'views' it means there is a hill; when it says 'good views' - there is a steep hill. :lol:
We still feel that the hardest part was the hill out of Pontedeume, and that the hill beyond Casa Julia was not as bad as we expected.
Best part(s)? Hard to choose:- Picnics on hilltops, the smell of the eucalyptus woods, the churches, the local people we chatted with........

The hospitalero at Bruma stamped our credenciales as we passed through. The albergue is by a stream and very pretty.
There is still more to add here and there are photos on the blog Return to the Camino . I'll try to add some here too when we have finished with the 'daily diary'.
Buen Camino
TerryB and Tia Valeria

 

[Tia Valeria]

Saturday 14th A final good bye to the wonderful folk at the Méson Novo and back to the Bar Cruceiro to continue walking. The bar was shut (9am) but we had our sellos yesterday and we had breakfast and coffee before we set out.
It was quite cold at first and stayed very cool and cloudy. Nice for walking though. Trees and tracks, with one long straight stretch through the trees which actually felt very hard on the feet.
We had our 'lunch' in a bus stop with a convenient seat, ham and tomato bought from Meson do Vento, along with oranges, croissants etc at various stages as needed.
We reached Sigueiro in time for lunch (Spanish time) at Hostal Miras. (11kms from the 'Cruceiro') A very good menu del dia - Vegetable soup and braised veal. Our room looked out onto the road junction and after the quiet of other nights the traffic was a bit noisy.
After a siesta we walked around the town and to the old bridge over the river. There were a few other pilgrims to talk to, most were pushing on to reach Santiago that evening. Anticipating that places are closed on Sundays we visited the supermarket to stock up on food for the road - croissants, coca cola, oranges, apples - and for tea - bread and cheese and a can of peaches. We didn't eat the peaches so they joined the food for the road.

Sunday 15thIt was sunny with a cool wind for our last day. We had coffee in the cafe/bar near the hostal but they had no croissants, so we set off to the nearby church to eat ours washed down with some Coca Cola. There was no-one around to ask for a sello until a visitor to the church came past and kindly signed our credenciales.
Then it was time to set off again along a mix of road and track, sun, shade and a cool wind all of which made walking pleasant. We were very glad of the food and water we had with us as, being Sunday, the cafés on the outskirts of Santiago were closed. It was warming up too when we stopped in a shady area near some houses and ate the can of peaches. The the final walk into Santiago arriving at the Cathedral at 13.30. After visiting St James and the shrine we went on to the Pilgrims' Office and received our Compostelas - very moving.
Lunch and then to the Hostal Linares which Terry had booked on Saturday night. (A total of 20kms from hostal to hostal) After a siesta we went out sightseeing and found the Café Dakar. The best food in town!!

So it has taken 9 days to walk Ferrol to Santiago, and about 900 photos. Time to sort them out and all the memories they bring.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Monday 16th The Pilgrims' Mass was wonderful. We sat in the nave under the organ and the congregation around us really joined in with the responses. A really uplifting service.
Lunch, siesta and then we had time for sightseeing and found an internet cafe.

Tuesday 17th Not having heard ourselves 'read out' we went again on Tuesday, unsure whether to stay for the full service or not. The congregation was so reluctant to join in that we actually left after hearing 'Ferrol, 2 de Italia, 2 de Reinas Unidas' as we felt that it could detract from the previous days experience and our memories of it.

Outside the celebrations for the Dia de Galicia were taking place, including bagpipes and dancing in local costume.
More sightseeing and a coffee in the Reyes Catolicos. We have to say that the service is better in the Dakar, who also have a delicious Tarta de Santiago. This evening while having supper in the Dakar we actually had a short thunderstorm - the last rain of our Camino and it has all been when we were inside.

So our time on the Camino, for this year, is over. We returned home via Lugo, Ribadeo, Oviedo, Llanes and Santander - but that belongs on the blog, not here.
As we sort the photos we'll put a few here. Many more will be on the blog Return to the Camino.
Next year? We don't expect to walk the Inglés again, nor to reach Santiago for a year or two, but hope to walk at least part of the Norte and visit Covadonga.

Hope others can keep this thread going with their news of the Camino Ingles in 2011
Buen Camino
TerryB and Tia Valeria

 

[Tia Valeria]

A few photos for 6th, 7th and 8th May

 

[Tia Valeria]

Pontedeume

 

[Tia Valeria]

After Pontedeume, 9th May
The top of the hill just before the picnic area and Im still smiling :lol:


Terry unpacking the snack and water

 

[Tia Valeria]

Between Miño and Betanzos, May 10th.
A lovely peaceful view from the old bridge. The motorway bridge is overhead


Up the steepish hill and then a wonderful view back. We came from below that bridge to here.


The road is level and also downhill sometimes!

 

[Tia Valeria]

The first half of the long stretch - between Betanzos and Casa Julia May 11th.

Some parts of the track were a pleasant mix of shade and sun.


We passed the church at Leiro, but the Way does not go into the village centre.
This is where the Bar Zapatero is said to have the key for 4 beds in the Colegio


Casa Julia was closed when we arrived there, so we sat in the bus stop a little further on to wait to be collected for Méson Novo.

 

[Tia Valeria]

The second part of the long stretch, Casa Julia to Méson do Vento, May 12th.

At the top of the hill and 300mts after the picnic area is the Cafe-bar Vizoño. Although 100mts off the Way it is possible to go on from the cafe, rather than retracing your steps. (It cuts the corner off, missing the hill and the cruceiro)


Advice says 'Adjust your boots whenever needed'.


There is a very grassy section of path nearing Bruma

 

[n.white51]

Hi Tia Valeria,

Thanks for the great posts on your Camino, also the pictures, it has helped us a lot
in the final 'run up' to doing our Camino on July 14th.

So glad you had such a great tme.

Neil & Brenda White

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thank you Neil and Brenda. Trust you have a great Camino too.

Here are the photos from Méson do Vento to Calle de Poulo May 13th.

The 'habitaciones' at the Méson Novo. Our room had windows onto the balcony. The cafe-bar is to the right of the photo, you can see the edge of its canopy. Méson Novo as the guide says is just after the left turn, and on the right hand side of the road, as you enter Méson do Vento from Bruma.


The red soil in the field is so like we have near us in Devon, and the view is similar too


The church of San Xulian de Poulo seen through the trees.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 14th Calle de Poulo to Sigueiro.

Terry found a huge footprint (porcupine) on his Camino.
This time we found some huge fir-cones.

The Camino is not all lovely views. Entering Sigueiro is one of those places where you have to pass through the industrial estate. At least it was all downhill here, as far as you can see!

At the other side of Sigueiro (as you leave) is the church of St Andrew, Barciela. Near enough to visit if staying overnight. We stopped to eat our croissants here after a 'coffee only' breakfast on Sunday 15th, there is a seat under the trees.

The Camino is the track at the right of the photo

 

[Tia Valeria]

Our final day walking, from Sigueiro to Santiago May 15th
More views from the hilltops and then Santiago itself.


Just arrived, and the Cathedral steps are the last hill to climb


Lovely and peaceful.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Lovely photos and blog.
Thanks, Tia

 

[Tia Valeria]

We had no problem finding sellos in most places. The exceptions were Cos and Barciela - leaving Sigueiro. There we were speaking to local folk, who came along at just the right time, and who gladly signed them for us.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Lovely photos and blog.
Thanks, Tia

Thank you Annie. The photos bring back so many lovely memories and will continue to do so.

Now we are thinking about next year . We did think of part of the Norte but are now thinking of returning to Tineo, where we had to turn back last year, and walking on from there (DV). How far? We don't know, it depends on time, health, weather etc.
Off to sign up for 2012