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LIVE from the Camino @Palmah on the Camino Francés

palmah

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2010
Our Camino 2022

We arrived at the airport in Madrid Monday Mar 14, around 10:30 a.m. Took about an hour to get through passport control because there were a lot of people. Several passengers in line were worried about missing their connecting flights. Once through the passport control we boarded the connector train to T4 and before picking up our baggage we went through the “ health check” where they scanned our QR code and looked at our vaccination cards - very efficient. Went to a Vodafone store in Zaragoza, got a SIM card with 4 weeks worth of service for 15 euros.
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Our Camino 2022

We arrived at the airport in Madrid Monday Mar 14, around 10:30 a.m. Took about an hour to get through passport control because there were a lot of people. Several passengers in line were worried about missing their connecting flights. Once through the passport control we boarded the connector train to T4 and before picking up our baggage we went through the “ health check” where they scanned our QR code and looked at our vaccination cards - very efficient. Went to a Vodafone store in Zaragoza, got a SIM card with 4 weeks worth of service for 15 euros.
Thanks so much for the detailed information! We go through Madrid in September. Which terminal did you land in? Did you check bags? Also, did you carry on your trekking sticks or check them? Much thanks!! Buen Camino!!
 
Thanks so much for the detailed information! We go through Madrid in September. Which terminal did you land in? Did you check bags? Also, did you carry on your trekking sticks or check them? Much thanks!! Buen Camino!!
Hi @Clover. We landed in terminal T4S. We pack our 2 backpacks into a large duffle along with our trekking sticks and umbrellas (something new this Camino - so much rain in the forecast☹️). We wrap it in plastic wrap and check it. That’s it. We flew Iberia from JFK.
 
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March 16. Walked from the hotel (Hotel Paris) in Zaragoza to the Train station. Took the train from Zaragoza to Pamplona and the bus, the only bus, to Roncesvalles departed at 2:00. We arrived Roncesvalles around 3:30, checked into the albergue and looking forward to dinner at Casa Sabina and then mass at 8:00.
 
March 16. Walked from the hotel (Hotel Paris) in Zaragoza to the Train station. Took the train from Zaragoza to Pamplona and the bus, the only bus, to Roncesvalles departed at 2:00. We arrived Roncesvalles around 3:30, checked into the albergue and looking forward to dinner at Casa Sabina and then mass at 8:00.
palmah,
Now you are really starting off!
Looking forward to following your new journey.
Carpe diem and Buen camino.
 
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We stayed in the albergue de peregrinos de Orreaga-Roncesvalles. Had dinner at Casa Sabina. It was okay but not like it was 12 years ago. The albergue although modern is quite noisy. The toilet flushing is particularly loud. We did not get the breakfast there, we opted to get breakfast on the way.

We did not stop at the first bar in Burquett which was a mistake because the bar near the church where we wanted to stop was not open when we passed so we walked to Espinal for our first coffee. The walk to Zubiri should be renamed “knee crusher”. It was really a tiring walk. There may be an alternate road route and if there is then take it! It is a very rocky trail and very slippery when wet and it rained most of the day beginning in Roncesvalles actually quite dangerous. Cullen fell twice and once. We did not make a reservation in Zubiri. Was hoping to stay at Palo de Arellano but it was complete according to their website. We checked into Albergue Zlbaldika (private)where we stayed 12 years ago and got a double room with shared bath for both of us for 44 euros. The proprietor, Maria, was most kind and extremely helpful. Definitely recommend if you’re looking for private accommodation In Zubiri. Wanted to stay in Ibarrola in Pamplona but they don’t open until April. Any other recommendations for Pamplona?
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
The walk to Zubiri should be renamed “knee crusher”. It was really a tiring walk. There may be an alternate road route and if there is then take it! It is a very rocky trail and very slippery when wet and it rained most of the day beginning in Roncesvalles actually quite dangerous. Cullen fell twice and once.
Most pilgrims quite rightly focus on the Day 1 climb on the Frances, its a tough walk. Few talk about the descent into Zubiri. For me, it is the second worst downhill on the trail, and particularly hazardous when wet. You have a comparatively easy and pleasant day tomorrow.

Buen Camino
 
Safe Camino. Wish I could suggest lodgings in Pamplona, but I can't as I stay with friends there. Two ideas- if you can bear 5km more, go on to Cizur Menor, the private albergue there is well regarded; if you have not got better suggestions by the time you reach Zabaldika, perhaps one of the sisters can recommend something. Or, five km before Pamplona, in Trinidad de Arre there is a very fine and traditionally welcoming albergue at the other end of the bridge, if you took the high path after Zabaldika.👣👣👣
 
Two ideas- if you can bear 5km more, go on to Cizur Menor,
Unfortunately, both albergues in Cizur Menor are currently closed.


In Pamplona Albergue de Pamplona-Iruñako Aterpea has pod style beds, and at least one private room for two.

 
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Safe Camino. Wish I could suggest lodgings in Pamplona, but I can't as I stay with friends there. Two ideas- if you can bear 5km more, go on to Cizur Menor, the private albergue there is well regarded; if you have not got better suggestions by the time you reach Zabaldika, perhaps one of the sisters can recommend something. Or, five km before Pamplona, in Trinidad de Arre there is a very fine and traditionally welcoming albergue at the other end of the bridge, if you took the high path after Zabaldika.👣👣👣
Thank you for the suggestions. I’ll write later to say where we end up. We are both feeling good after our first day of walking😁
 
Nice walk today from Zubiri to Pamplona for the most part. No rain today - yippee😁. Maybe one bar on the way to Pamplona. We didn’t see any type of tienda to stop for provisions. There was a man, Juan, in the middle of nowhere (4-6 k before Pamplona) selling fruits and beverages - a very welcome sight! We decided to stay in Paderborn tonight. We stayed here in 2010. Very acceptable. 7 euro for bed, 3 for breakfast and they will do the laundry. 3.50 to wash and 3.50 to dry. We asked for a double room for the two us which they didn’t have available so we’re in a room with 2 sets of bunk beds. They have another room for 8 people and they will put additional pilgrims in there if anyone else arrives. Hopefully we will be the only ones in our room.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
March 19. Pamplona to Puente La ReinaWe were the only ones in our room last night! Had a good sleep and had breakfast at Paderborn which opened March 1 for the season. There were only six pilgrims here last night. It is a long walk out of Pamplona. There was a bar open in Cizur Menor - best cafe con levhe so far this trip. The small town of Zariquiegui before the climb To Alto de Perdon had a small tienda selling drinks and snacks. No bar though. There seemed to be an Albergue right next door but I didn’t catch the name. We thought we might stay in Uterga this night but the Albergue de Perdon was not open. The Casa Baztam (BnB) across the was was open but we didn’t want stay there. We did buy a couple of bocadillos and left. We saw nothing open nor a single person the rest of the way to Puente la Reina. Most of the way today was rough. We had to share the way up to Alto with bicycles. It was narrow, rocky and in some parts muddy. We din not have to contend with bikes on the way down but it looked like “improvements” were made dumping truckloads of rocks and parts were quite dangerous. You’d step on a rock and a small avalanche of stones would begin. Finally got to Puente la Reina and stopped at Jakue. Albergue rooms unavailable so we got a hotel room with a tub for 59 euros. We need this luxury tonight! Unfortunately the restaurant is closed for an event tonight, but the bar is open! Yippee! Until
 
March 19. Pamplona to Puente La ReinaWe were the only ones in our room last night! Had a good sleep and had breakfast at Paderborn which opened March 1 for the season. There were only six pilgrims here last night. It is a long walk out of Pamplona. There was a bar open in Cizur Menor - best cafe con levhe so far this trip. The small town of Zariquiegui before the climb To Alto de Perdon had a small tienda selling drinks and snacks. No bar though. There seemed to be an Albergue right next door but I didn’t catch the name. We thought we might stay in Uterga this night but the Albergue de Perdon was not open. The Casa Baztam (BnB) across the was was open but we didn’t want stay there. We did buy a couple of bocadillos and left. We saw nothing open nor a single person the rest of the way to Puente la Reina. Most of the way today was rough. We had to share the way up to Alto with bicycles. It was narrow, rocky and in some parts muddy. We din not have to contend with bikes on the way down but it looked like “improvements” were made dumping truckloads of rocks and parts were quite dangerous. You’d step on a rock and a small avalanche of stones would begin. Finally got to Puente la Reina and stopped at Jakue. Albergue rooms unavailable so we got a hotel room with a tub for 59 euros. We need this luxury tonight! Unfortunately the restaurant is closed for an event tonight, but the bar is open! Yippee! Until
Well done. Soon after the first church, on the Main Street, there is a cafe that does wonderful freshly squeezed orange juice...if it is open in the morning...
 
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March 16. Walked from the hotel (Hotel Paris) in Zaragoza to the Train station. Took the train from Zaragoza to Pamplona and the bus, the only bus, to Roncesvalles departed at 2:00. We arrived Roncesvalles around 3:30, checked into the albergue and looking forward to dinner at Casa Sabina and then mass at 8:00.
Are you telling you were at Zaragoza five days ago, and didn´t contacted me? I just arrived from Grañon that day, and would be a real pleasure for me to share one or two glasses of red, guide you in MY city, etc.
I´m really sad and angry now knowing whe could share a good talk and many other things, and had lost that oportunity.
Grrrrr!
Anyway, Buen Camino my friends!
 
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Are you telling you were at Zaragoza five days ago, and didn´t contact me? I just arrived from Grañon that day, and would be a real pleasure for me to share one or two glasses of red, guide you in MY city, etc.
I´m really sad and ungry now knowing whe could share a good talk and many other things, and had lost that oportunity.
Grrrrr!
Anyway, Buen Camino my friends!
Ok, message taken. Do not incur the wrath of a @Pingüigrino. I remember I had hoped/planned to get together a few years ago when I walked through Zaragoza on the Ebro, but bed bugs from a few stages earlier made that impossible. Instead of enjoying the historic core with @Pingüigrino, I was washing and drying my clothes, spraying my pack, etc.
 
Ok, message taken. Do not incur the wrath of a @Pingüigrino. I remember I had hoped/planned to get together a few years ago when I walked through Zaragoza on the Ebro, but bed bugs from a few stages earlier made that impossible. Instead of enjoying the historic core with @Pingüigrino, I was washing and drying my clothes, spraying my pack, etc.
I remember that day. Your message "sounds" like you where mad, fighting those creepy bugs.But I´ll have my revenge, next time we´ll meet , double round of beberages will be taken.
Buen Camino Laurie.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Are you telling you were at Zaragoza five days ago, and didn´t contacted me? I just arrived from Grañon that day, and would be a real pleasure for me to share one or two glasses of red, guide you in MY city, etc.
I´m really sad and ungry now knowing whe could share a good talk and many other things, and had lost that oportunity.
Grrrrr!
Anyway, Buen Camino my friends!
Sorry I didn’t know you were from Zaragoza☹️ I’m angry also that we missed an opportunity to meet again and share a glass of wine or two. How was your time as Hospitalero? Did you go to Bar Teo? And the baker Jesus and Susana? We are looking forward to stopping there!💕
 
Sorry I didn’t know you were from Zaragoza☹️ I’m angry also that we missed an opportunity to meet again and share a glass of wine or two. How was your time as Hospitalero? Did you go to Bar Teo? And the baker Jesus and Susana? We are looking forward to stopping there!💕
That was not the fault of anybody, you dind´t know I live in Zaragoza, nor I knew you were passing by.
My time like hospi was, as always, invigorating and exhausting, because the double task of cleaning, exhaustively desinfect the facilities etc.
Fortunetely I have had a bunch of good collaborating pilgrims.
About Susana and Jesus ...what can I say of them that you dont know? Good and caring persons always ready to help pilgrims and hospis.
The bad news are bar Teo closed its doors two years ago. The good ones are Pili and her family are safe and well, although she has knee problems.
If you pass by "our" albergue before the 30th of March, say hi in my name to Valero and Trini, a couple or lovely hospis that relieved me.
Buen Camino my friends, hope we can meet soon again.
Ildefonso.
 
That was not the fault of anybody, you dind´t know I live in Zaragoza, nor I knew you were passing by.
My time like hospi was, as always, invigorating and exhausting, because the double task of cleaning, exhaustively desinfect the facilities etc.
Fortunetely I have had a bunch of good collaborating pilgrims.
About Susana and Jesus ...what can I say of them that you dont know? Good and caring persons always ready to help pilgrims and hospis.
The bad news are bar Teo closed its doors two years ago. The good ones are Pili and her family are safe and well, although she has knee problems.
If you pass by "our" albergue before the 30th of March, say hi in my name to Valero and Trini, a couple or lovely hospis that relieved me.
Buen Camino my friends, hope we can meet soon again.
Ildefonso.
😢Bar Theo :) Susana and Jesus and Pili and Family
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
March 22 Los Arcos to Viana. Our stay in the Casa Abuela was great. Pilgrim meal - our first on this Camino was a great way to spend some time with pilgrims we had seen over the last few days. Only one bar was open in the evening and only one (Bar Buen Camino) that we saw in the morning for a bit of breakfast before our start to Viana. No bars were open in Sansol. One bar/ Albergue was open in Torres del Rio - 6 pilgrims spent the night. Another rainy day. I realize it has been 12 years since we walked this way but we had no recollection of how difficult this stage was on the knees. I think in Wise Pilgrim’s app it’s called the”knee breaker”. In 2010 a couple of young Spaniards urged us to continue to Logrono which we did. Not this trip😁. Spending the night here in Viana at the San Pedro Pension. Clean but very small rooms.
 
….Pamplona and the bus, the only bus, to Roncesvalles departed at 2:00. We arrived Roncesvalles around 3:30, checked into the albergue and looking forward to dinner at Casa Sabina and then mass at 8:00.
Do you recall the name of the bus company? I’m going to be there the first week of April, starting from Roncevalles, and wasn’t able to find the bus info. When I looked at the ALSA site, nothing came up.
Reading your post thread with great interest!

EDIT: I guess I found it Rome to Rio, https://www.autocaresartieda.com/ , Although I can’t get the website to come up for some reason so I don’t know if It’s the right one….
 
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Do you recall the name of the bus company? I’m going to be there the first week of April, starting from Roncevalles, and wasn’t able to find the bus info. When I looked at the ALSA site, nothing came up.
Reading your post thread with great interest!

EDIT: I guess I found it Rome to Rio, https://www.autocaresartieda.com/ , Although I can’t get the website to come up for some reason so I don’t know if It’s the right one….
Your link is live, but here it is:

Each morning 9.20, except Sunday, from Pamplona bus station. Platforms 20-25.

4.85 Euros.

1 hour 10 mins.

No pre-booking. Buy ticket on the bus (station?)

Edit: The info on the website is unclear. It actually says from Roncesvalles 9.20, and from Pamplona 16.00. Ask locals where you stay in Pamplona.

Hopefully others on the forum can clarify.
 
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
Do you recall the name of the bus company? I’m going to be there the first week of April, starting from Roncevalles, and wasn’t able to find the bus info. When I looked at the ALSA site, nothing came up.
Reading your post thread with great interest!

EDIT: I guess I found it Rome to Rio, https://www.autocaresartieda.com/ , Although I can’t get the website to come up for some reason so I don’t know if It’s the right one….
We took the Autocares Artieda bus which departed from the Pamplona bus station. That have a website autocaresartieda.com. You buy the tickets on the bus.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
March 22 Los Arcos to Viana. Our stay in the Casa Abuela was great. Pilgrim meal - our first on this Camino was a great way to spend some time with pilgrims we had seen over the last few days. Only one bar was open in the evening and only one (Bar Buen Camino) that we saw in the morning for a bit of breakfast before our start to Viana. No bars were open in Sansol. One bar/ Albergue was open in Torres del Rio - 6 pilgrims spent the night. Another rainy day. I realize it has been 12 years since we walked this way but we had no recollection of how difficult this stage was on the knees. I think in Wise Pilgrim’s app it’s called the”knee breaker”. In 2010 a couple of young Spaniards urged us to continue to Logrono which we did. Not this trip😁. Spending the night here in Viana at the San Pedro Pension. Clean but very small rooms.
Palma, how are you choosing your pensions? Do you have a list of good ones or ask around - and do you call ahead to make a reservation with your credit card? When you get to town, how do you find the bars and restaurants? Do you text with others?
 
Palma, how are you choosing your pensions? Do you have a list of good ones or ask around - and do you call ahead to make a reservation with your credit card? When you get to town, how do you find the bars and restaurants? Do you text with others?
When we look for places to spend the night we either choose from what is listed in one of the apps (for example Wise Pilgrim) or a list of places I gathered off the forum. There are plenty of threads to sift through which members have commented about a variety of places. Or we just go into a town and look to see what is around. We haven’t booked ahead. We haven’t texted with others. Most towns are small enough for you to walk around and find open bars or restaurants or you can ask a local if you see one out and about.
 
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We will be cutting short our Camino. When I fell on the way down to Zubiri I thought I sprained my wrist. But no. An X-ray today in Logrono confirms it is broken. I was very pleased with the attention and care I received by all the medical personnel in Logrono.
 
We will be cutting short our Camino. When I fell on the way down to Zubiri I thought I sprained my wrist. But no. An X-ray today in Logrono confirms it is broken. I was very pleased with the attention and care I received by all the medical personnel in Logrono.
Ouch!! SOO sorry for you!!!!!! Almost before you had started properly!!!
 
We will be cutting short our Camino. When I fell on the way down to Zubiri I thought I sprained my wrist. But no. An X-ray today in Logrono confirms it is broken. I was very pleased with the attention and care I received by all the medical personnel in Logrono.
Oh dear! so sorry for you...
 
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We will be cutting short our Camino. When I fell on the way down to Zubiri I thought I sprained my wrist. But no. An X-ray today in Logrono confirms it is broken. I was very pleased with the attention and care I received by all the medical personnel in Logrono.
Please take care of yourself! That hill is a bad one at Zubiri! I am sorry to know you are ending your Camino and I know that is really disappointing. Will you come home or do you have other plans?
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Did they put a cast on it? Maybe you will see things differently in the morning. I hope so, I really liked your postings!
 
@palmah, now, tomorrow is today. I hope you slept after the treatment for your wrist. I also hope your decision re ending or continuing can be made without too much pain...did I see correctly that you have organised a spell as hospitaleros in Burgos?
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Oh, so sorry to hear this @palmah !
🙁
I might be tempted to continue, depending on pain levels and if the break was in a plaster. But whatever you choose will be right for you - and I hope it is an easy decision to make, and that you feel at ease having made it.
Buen camino either way - home or onward.
 
@palmah, now, tomorrow is today. I hope you slept after the treatment for your wrist. I also hope your decision re ending or continuing can be made without too much pain...did I see correctly that you have organised a spell as hospitaleros in Burgos?
Thanks KirkIe! Yes, we usually work in Burgos at Albergue Emaus. First year 2017, then the next 2 years. Skipped a couple of years due to Covid but they are reopening and we were scheduled to be there beginning 5 May. We’ll be leaving Logrono tomorrow. First stopping in Burgos for a couple of days and then to Madrid for our flight back to the States. I just can’t see myself walking the Camino with this cast on. Hopefully we return next year, begin in Logrono and on to Santiago via the Invierno.
 
Oh, so sorry to hear this @palmah !
🙁
I might be tempted to continue, depending on pain levels and if the break was in a plaster. But whatever you choose will be right for you - and I hope it is an easy decision to make, and that you feel at ease having made it.
Buen camino either way - home or onward.
Thanks VNwalking! I am not tempted to keep walking. I can’t even tie my shoes right now😔
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I hope you’ll be posting so I can follow you!
Yes, I intend to! Starting from Pamplona on March 30th (My release-date of version 6.8 of myself). Due to the time of year (several places I called were closed), I have booked my days up to Villatuarta (ETA April 1st). I intend to do slow days at least the first couple of weeks, both bc I am not in the best fit myself after 2 passive Covid-years, but also bc I want to stay in places in-between/places I earlier years just walked throuh.
 
Yes, I intend to! Starting from Pamplona on March 30th (My release-date of version 6.8 of myself). Due to the time of year (several places I called were closed), I have booked my days up to Villatuarta (ETA April 1st). I intend to do slow days at least the first couple of weeks, both bc I am not in the best fit myself after 2 passive Covid-years, but also bc I want to stay in places in-between/places I earlier years just walked throuh.
I’m on version 6.7 myself. Hopefully 6.8 starting in Logrono next year. You have a good plan! Enjoy every moment.
 
Most pilgrims quite rightly focus on the Day 1 climb on the Frances, its a tough walk. Few talk about the descent into Zubiri. For me, it is the second worst downhill on the trail, and particularly hazardous when wet. You have a comparatively easy and pleasant day tomorrow.

Buen Camino
Dare I ask what the 1st?
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Dare I ask what the 1st?
Alto de perdon is the most "unfriendly" descent, but its actually pretty short, and not affected by weather. The grand daddy is the descent from Cruz de Ferro into Molineseca. Beautiful views, and a hideous, relentless dragon tooth trail winding down the side of the mountain. Anyone not confident in their knees should take a taxi from Acebo.
 
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The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Also this doozy somewhere close to Ponferrada.
View attachment 121224
are you sure? It looks like what I call "the cornfield descent", one of three possible options into Portomarin. A slippery staircase chiselled into the side of a steep farmers field. Easy as pie on a sunny day, dangerous as can be in the rain......but mercifully short.
 
Yes sorry I meant Portomarin. I had to slide down on my bottom and my pants were worse for the wear! Some of the steps were too high for me to "step" down and I was afraid I would fall head first.
 
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