Paradors along the Camino Frances

[Robin4]

In reviewing the posts about a good hotel in Santiago there were several comments about Paradors.

Are there many Paradors along the way? I only know of two.

I realize that many (or most) pilgrims may think that choosing a parador instead of an albergues is totally out of character while walking el Camino. I am thinking spending thousands of dollars to get there, being able to take time off from daily routine and from a country where a two-week vacation is a luxury nowadays, should allow me to break a bit from the norm.

Any personal experiences?

 

[tyrrek]

Hi Robin!

I'm sure a search on Google will come up with the options, and people on the forum will tell you about their specific experiences of those you're interested in.

I didn't get the impression along the Way on my Caminos that using private accommodation was seen as out of character at all. I've always used a mix of accommodation; nothing luxurious, but that's down to my wallet not my taste! Just do what's right for you. You might appreciate it more (or less) after a few nights in albergues!

I don't know the history of the paradors, but I wouldn't be surprised if many were built or financed directly or indirectly from the Camino (I know about the one in Santiago).

Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Robin,

There are paradores in Santo Domingo de la Calzada (actually that town has two!), Leon, Villafranca del Bierzo (though off the camino a bit, I think), and Santiago. I have stayed in the paradores in Santo Domingo, Leon and Santiago. On another post, Falcon had the great idea that if you buy the 5 night card, you can stay pretty cheaply in all of them and would have two nights in one place (obvious choices would be Leon for a rest day or Santiago at the end).

For me, the parador option can be just the thing that hits the spot or it might be totally unappealing, and I can't tell you what causes the different reactions. Last year, when I was walking the camino de Invierno and arrived in Monforte de Lemos on a hot day after a 32 km walk, I saw the parador sign and headed straight to it. It was heaven. Those huge towels! (great for drying clothes) Those incredible sheets! Great breakfast! And all inside an old palace. But on other occasions I haven't felt at all attracted to them. I think you should just go with your gut and if you feel like the luxury, go for it.

Though some of the posters on that Santiago thread obviously would disagree, I have always found the staff in the Santiago parador to be very accommodating and friendly. I took my parents there for their 60th wedding anniversary a couple of years ago, and they were upgraded to a lovely suite, had a tarta de santiago, some wine, and some other goodies waiting for them. It was really nice.

In general, I don't think the paradores have very good food, and it is usually overpriced IMO. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[annelise]

Hi Robin,
If not exactly a parador, but to me at least coming close, is Hotel San Anton Abad in Villafranca Montes de Oca (between Belorado and St Juan before Burgos – map 11 in the Brierley guide).

In May 2011 I had to be transported forward on the route because of problems with finding a bed after a rather hard day's walking. And I told the chauffeur that price was not an obstacle – I would at the time give a kingdom for a bed to sleep in – any bed, anywhere!

So when I was set down at the hotel San Anton Abad, my chauffeur told the staff that I was a very tired elderly lady peregrina! (true!). I was then shown to a beautiful room with ensuite (just as out of glittered magazines). When it later occurred to me to ask the price, it came out that it was only 54 Euros!

In fact, I loved my room so much that I stayed there for two nights. The hotel had the service that they would come to pick you up at the end of the day when you had finished your day's walk, and then next day bring you back to the point where you had ended the previous day. That was the only day, where I only walked with a day-pack. Pure bliss!

(And the food was also excellent – and not overpriced). - Buen Camino!

 

[tyrrek]

In fact, I loved my room so much that I stayed there for two nights.

That's the way to do it! The rooms from the Bar Pajaro there are great value as well. I think last year I was charged 16 Euros for a single room. It's right on the bend in the road so trucks are passing all night, but I was very happy with it overall.

Buen Camino!

 

[William Marques]

The Paradors on the Camino as peregrina2000 says are in:

Santo Domingo de la Calzada -
1. The original in a 12th century former hospital next to the Cathedral, was built by Saint Domingo to house the pilgrims on St. James' way. A great spot in the centre of town
2. The other is in the former Convent of San Francisco, in 800 m from the historical centre of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the Parador now is located in the former pilgrim hostel. The second was originally a training centre for the parador chain I am not sure if this is still the case.

Leon -
The San Marcos Monastery, a 16th century national monument built for the Order of Santiago is a little distance from the centre of town on the way out to Santiago. It had a good restaurant when I was there.

Vilafranca del Bierzo -
The parador is a modern one and bang on the route in the town of Villafranca.

Santiago de Compostela -
Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos on the Plaza do Obradoiro by the cathedral of which much has been written. Personally I would say the rooms are good value but go elsewhere for food.

I do like to break the journey with the odd treat night at a parador.

 

[sillydoll]

The Paradores of Spain might be exactly the places to stay if you want a sense of what it was like to be a wealthy medieval pilgrim, which could have included knights and their ladies, ecclesiastic pilgrims, Lords and ladies etc. Many of the Paradores are located in historical buildings such as convents, monasteries, castles and palaces.
You have given me an idea for my 2015 pilgrimage - I'm going to go as a Lady and stay in a few Paradores along the way!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Vilafranca del Bierzo -The parador is a modern one and bang on the route in the town of Villafranca.

It is the bus stop, too. If you have had your fill of Ponferrada, there is a bus hourly that drops you at the front door for a couple of Euro, and you can bask in luxury preparing for the long next day to O Cebreiro. I had to pick up a day, and this was a good stage to skip, having seen it before. I did not stay in the Parador, however. The Hotel San Francisco is a much better value.

 

[Robin4]

Great stuff here! Thank you so much.

I thought I may be breaking some of the spirit of the pilgrimage by choosing comfort once in a while but I came upon the book on Catherine The Great and read that Empress Elizabeth would leave her carriage while traveling and choose to walk for days as a pilgrimage. Her entourage would follow behind her. Ha!

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola

Walking the Camino Portuguese a while ago I came across a couple walking from one good hotel to the next including every Parador they could find. "The Parador Pilgrims" they called themselves jokingly. However they carried everything on their backs. They have subsequently become firm friends.

Adrian has published itineraries for a number of routes on his website:

http://adrianjack.com/campinodesantiago.html

Also helpful if you need legal advice!

 

[sillydoll]

There are Parador trails where you travel from one Parador to the next.

http://www.paradores-spain.com/offers/r ... outes.html

If you book for three nights the rooms are actually not that expensive.

- World Heritage City Route
- Route of Monastery
- Route of the Mozarabs
- Route of the Nasrids
- Royal Sites Route
- Al-Andalus Route
- Castles Route
- Costa Blanca (White Coast) to Costa del Azahar (Blossom Coast) Route
- Kingdom of Leon Route

 

[Deleted member 3000]

It seems worthwhile to use the internet to book at the Paradores. Right now at Villafranca del Bierzo, the rate next week for double occupancy is 112E including breakfast. The standard rate is 137E plus 16E for breakfast, a total of 169E for two persons. Ave Fenix around the corner is a lot less expensive, of course.

 

[Robin4]

Do you think it is relatively easy to reserve a room on the Internet while you are on the road? Having a set schedule of arrival would take away some of the spontaneity of the trip, I'd guess.

 

[anniethenurse]

Do you think it is relatively easy to reserve a room on the Internet while you are on the road? Having a set schedule of arrival would take away some of the spontaneity of the trip, I'd guess.

Yes, it is very easy (all you need is internet access). Just check the availability the day before or in the morning when you know your schedule. While I was walking in April this year I booked a room in Palas del Rei when I still had 10 km to walk. It was late (well, late for me 4 pm) and it was raining and I wanted to be sure I had a warm room and nice bed waiting for me.
annie

 

[Abbeydore]

Yes, but it's nice to know you are going to have a bath or 2 that night :lol:

You can chance it, we did twice on our 2 weeks, both of ours was cheaper & included an evening meal, that was just amazing. we felt like king & queen! :mrgreen:

 

[anniethenurse]

Yes, but it's nice to know you are going to have a bath or 2 that night :lol:

You can chance it, we did twice on our 2 weeks, both of ours was cheaper & included an evening meal, that was just amazing. we felt like king & queen! :mrgreen:

yes, good deals. In Leon a heated room for €25 Pension Sandoval 50 m from the camino and about 150 m from the Carbajal Albergue. www.booking.com Perfect!

 

[Robin4]

Good to know. I'll be traveling with my iPad, so Internet coverage might not be a problem. I thought I would not want or need it until I got to my hotel (no need for distractions) but I may have to pack it within reacheable distance in my pack.

Although I am a shower person, a bath or two would feel heavenly.

Since I can't leave until 2013, I think I'll start researching and making lists of my favorite choices along the way.

 

[tyrrek]

Good to know. I'll be traveling with my iPad, so Internet coverage might not be a problem.

I'm no expert on these things, but my walking partner was keen on her gadgets. She was delighted by the availability of wifi in so many places.

Buen Camino!

 

[AlanB]

I'm not adverse to the odd night of indulgence myself and would reccommend http://www.booking.com the rates in SDC were about half of those on the official Parador website.
I've booked hotels for the first and last night of my Camino. Personally I feel that pre-booking intermediate accommodation would hold to some kind of schedule and I'm keen to avoid that.Also,I like the Albergue experience and don't want to fore-go that

 

[alansykes]

There are several beautiful paradors along the Via de la Plata. Out of season they're not that excessively expensive for a once in a while taste of a warm bath and a luxurious bed. Zafra is in a fabulous mediaeval castle of the local duke, Cacares was closed, Merida was full, am planning to detour via Plasencia next month, Salamanca is a bit soulless and modern but has fantastic views across the river of the cathedrals, Zamora was a lovely renaissance palace, Puebla de Sanabira was a modern one like Salamanca, and Verin is out of town on a hill next to the astonishing border fortress of Monterrei. In November they cost about 60€ a night, and if you have an "Amigos de Paradors" card (which costs nothing) there are special offers and you can build up points towards a free night (I think it works out at about one night in 8-10 or so - haven't stayed in enough to have earned an extra night yet, but should do soon).

 

[ausmarko]

I had the great fortune to have dinner at the Santiago Parador and it was a fitting end to my Camino.
Great company of three others I walked with for over 10 days and a fantastic way to end this great experience. It was not that expensive and maybe an option if you don't actually stay in a Parador.
Truly a great experience. I didn't enquire when in Leon as to the cost of the Parador - to my detriment as it turned out to be quite affordable at that time. I stood outside and assumed it was way too expensive. It pays to ask

 

[CaminoJohn]

It is not a parador but the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo in Carrión de los Condes is amazing to stay at!

 

[sulu]

Hm! Interesting thread.

[quoteWalking the Camino Portuguese a while ago I came across a couple walking from one good hotel to the next including every Parador they could find. "The Parador Pilgrims" they called themselves jokingly. However they carried everything on their backs][/quote]
Now I can go with that idea, not sure what they carried but if you stay in hotels there is no need for a sleeping bag. I have one big problem with the thought of staying in a Parador whilst on the Camino, that's clothes
I just couldn't fancy wondering around a Parador in creased camino clothes and boots, I'd have to carry a decent change of clothes and shoes, make-up, a luxurious nightie
Maybe I'm the only one who always looks a mess on the camino, I don't mind looking a mess in an albergue but in a Parador I would feel so uncomfortable.
What a conceited idiot I am to think any one else cares what a mess I look, but I care

 

[rickster]

I second the recommendation for the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo in Carrion de los Condes. Rooms are very reasonably priced, also at the western edge of town but on the Camino and gives you a head start the next morning. Very peaceful, countryside feeling, parador feel but a lot less expensive. Food is excellent but pricey, so you might want to take the short walk into town for a less expensive option.

Also, rewarded myself along the way with stays at paradors in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Leon and
Santiago. I booked way ahead and took the very generous "over 55" discount and found them to be a lot less expensive than expected. Had to adjust my dates a couple of times while on the camino but was still able to keep my original prices. The breakfasts at these paradors were and helped me feel even better about the value. Also, each was a history lesson. So if you include the discounts, breakfast, history lesson and great accommodations, it is a real treat.

 

[William Marques]

I just couldn't fancy wondering around a Parador in creased Camino clothes and boots, I'd have to carry a decent change of clothes and shoes, make-up, a luxurious nightie
Maybe I'm the only one who always looks a mess on the camino, I don't mind looking a mess in an albergue but in a Parador I would feel so uncomfortable.

No worries about fancy clothing at paradors as long as you have one set of clean clothes. We have stayed at just about every parador on the Camino Frances and Via de la Plata and never felt uncomfortable.

As for bed time follow Miss Monroe's example!

 

[oursonpolaire]

I once enquired of one of the staff (at the Alfonso IX in Sarria) if anyone minded our faded, crumpled, never-quite-clean-by-handwashing, appearance, and she said very much to the contrary. Staff liked having pilgrims as they were usually in a very good mood and almost never argued, and serving pilgrims was part of their tradition and just not part of a job. The Spanish customers understood and liked it. Foreign customers were sometimes puzzled, many of them not knowing about the Camino, but never complained. On the Camino del Norte, in low season and with tourism dropping, I was one of the few customers and, at two places, the only one. In the current economic situation, I think many places would be only too happy to see our wrinkled garments!

 

[sriyantra]

It is not a parador but the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo in Carrión de los Condes is amazing to stay at!

Hi John, I picked up this old thread. I am planning on walking in September/October 2014 and want to book a few "special" nights along the route. I was wondering about Real Monasterio. It seems a little out of town and while it looks lovely was still unsure. Any other places you would recommend? Thanks sriyantra

 

[Kanga]

Hm! Interesting thread.


I just couldn't fancy wondering around a Parador in creased camino clothes and boots, I'd have to carry a decent change of clothes and shoes, make-up, a luxurious nightie
Maybe I'm the only one who always looks a mess on the camino, I don't mind looking a mess in an albergue but in a Parador I would feel so uncomfortable.
What a conceited idiot I am to think any one else cares what a mess I look, but I care

No no, Sulu, you are quite wrong! As others have said, the Paradors love to have genuine pilgrims - staff have told me what a thrill and honour they consider it. Many of these old buildings were originally built as pilgrim "hospitals" so the tradition is there. I have always been treated with the greatest respect; staff going out of their way to tell other guests that I am a "real" pilgrim, walking with a pack! At Leon the staff kept urging me back to the buffet table at breakfast "to have strength for the journey".
I also had the experience in Santiago during a Holy Year when the only accommodation I could find was a 6 star $$$$ hotel. I paid for the cheapest room, they upgraded me to a suite, the next day found me a much cheaper (but nice) room in a further out of town hotel and told me for the rest of my stay to use the day facilities at the 6 star hotel as my own (gym, heated pool, private lounge club with constant supply of free drinks and food).

 

[Deleted member 3000]

a 6 star $$$$ hotel

Before all the pilgrims go on a search for six-star hotels along the route, the generally accepted star rating system only goes to five stars. There is a five-star with an "S" for Superior Luxury, but stars after five are self-promotion (common in the Middle East oil sheikdoms, where humble is a bad thing), not a real rating!

 

[JohnnieWalker]

I'm not saying I do but some might perceive a contradiction in pilgrims who use donativo albergues for some of their pilgrimage and Paradores for other parts of it!

In any event whilst the 5 night ticket for Paradors is good value I recommend anyone panning on using them to become an Amigo of the Paradores https://www.parador.es/es/amigos-de-paradores with many bargains and discounts available.

 

[Kanga]

Before all the pilgrims go on a search for six-star hotels along the route, the generally accepted star rating system only goes to five stars. There is a five-star with an "S" for Superior Luxury, but stars after five are self-promotion (common in the Middle East oil sheikdoms, where humble is a bad thing), not a real rating!

Well, it was the Araguaney (I think - it was quite a few years ago now) and claimed 6 stars - it did have a distinctive Middle East oil sheikhdom feel about it.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

I love the concept of "pilgrims going on a search for 6 star hotels"

 

[Kanga]

I love the concept of "pilgrims going on a search for 6 star hotels"

I wasn't searching for 6 star accommodation. It was all we could get. For the previous two weeks we'd been sleeping in plazas, on concrete floors in school gymnasiums and in army tents. You try finding accommodation in Santiago on the Friday night before the St James Feast Day on Sunday - i.e. in Holy Year.

But through choice I have stayed in the Parador in Leon once and the Parador in Santo Domingo and if I afford it I would do it again in a flash. The bliss of a proper bed and sheets and big towels after days of dormitories, bunks, shared bathrooms......

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Kanga - I was quoting the Falcon not you!

 

[rector]

I'm not saying I do but some might perceive a contradiction in pilgrims who use donativo albergues for some of their pilgrimage and Paradores for other parts of it!

In any event whilst the 5 night ticket for Paradors is good value I recommend anyone panning on using them to become an Amigo of the Paradores https://www.parador.es/es/amigos-de-paradores with many bargains and discounts available.

That is indeed a good question Johnnie and makes me ask the question, if you have the funds in peak season and don't use an hotel, are you potentially keeping a not so well off person out of a place in an albergue by your actions?

 

[RobertS26]

That is indeed a good question Johnnie and makes me ask the question, if you have the funds in peak season and don't use an hotel, are you potentially keeping a not so well off person out of a place in an albergue by your actions?

Or if you snore like a freight train, don't your fellow pilgrims deserve a night of rest every now and then? Or at least that's my excuse for checking into Paradors.

 

[CaminoJohn]

Hi John, I picked up this old thread. I am planning on walking in September/October 2014 and want to book a few "special" nights along the route. I was wondering about Real Monasterio. It seems a little out of town and while it looks lovely was still unsure. Any other places you would recommend? Thanks sriyantra

Hi Sriyantra,
The Real Monasterio is just a 5 minute walk into the center of town. However, Rebekah Scott stated in another thread that the bridge connecting them was closed for repairs, resulting in a longer detour...I will look for that thread and try to get an update.

 

[Pelegrin]

Talking about Paradores and Caminos, I'm sorry but i couldn´t help to remember Manuel Fraga Iribarne. I said i'm sorry because Manuel Fraga was a minister in the Franco regime and so that he is rather unpopular in Spain. But he was the creator of the Paradores Network when he was minister of Información (yes in charge of censors) and Turismo.
After the arrival of democracy he was the President of Xunta de Galicia (1990-2005) and during his office he definetely relaunched the almost extinct Camino de Santiago by investing a lot of money in the promotion of Xacobeo 1993. He also is reponsible, during his office of president X.G, of recovering the Galician culture and language by promoting different laws. Manuel Fraga died in 2012.

 

[oursonpolaire]

I believe that the paradors began under Alfonxo XIII, the pre-civil war king who was miffed at the poor accommodation available in Spain for his travelling friends, but Fraga was one of those responsible for the push for tourism from the 1950s and, of course, his energies transferred to Galicia when he did.

I would second the chorus in support of the San Zoilo, which I found very comfortable (although my siesta was disturbed by a very affectionate and audible couple in the next room!)-- it has a museum with a spectacular chapel attached, where a sello is available. On the Camino, I vary my accommodation greatly according to my mood and the sort of day I had, but I found that the "classier" joints were very welcoming, especially in the off season. I recall arriving at the Alfonxo IX in Sarria on my first Camino after a day of nonstop Galician rain and, as I soggily registered, a waiter appeared at my right hand with a complimentary shot of cognac. As noted above, Spanish guests recognized us and I remember one parent assuring his two children that this was a peregrino and that they should be friendly toward them, so they stepped up, shook my hand, and wished me a good voyage. Foreign guests were puzzled, and I had some conversations with French and US tourists who were fascinated by the phenomenon. No matter how wrinkled my clothes, I was treated in the same (if not better) way as the snazzier guests (although a cynical friend points out that a credit card is always well-dressed) and was a bit embarrassed by the warm welcome from staff, with handshakes and good wishes as I left. I got the same welcome at the three-stars on the Francese as I did in the pensions and fondas in the back hills of the Asturias on the Primitivo.

 

[sriyantra]

Hi Sriyantra,
The Real Monasterio is just a 5 minute walk into the center of town. However, Rebekah Scott stated in another thread that the bridge connecting them was closed for repairs, resulting in a longer detour...I will look for that thread and try to get an update.

Thanks for that. If you can't find anything I can send them an email and ask the question. Sri

 

[CaminoJohn]

Quote from Rebekah Scott about bridge out in Carrion.

The detour is not much out of the way at all.. it may even be more direct than the usual camino through town. It is certainly more scenic! You descend from the plaza down to the riverside park, and cross a pedestrian bridge there to the polideportivo. From there you simply follow the road up past San Zoilo as usual.

I have not been over to Carrion for a couple of weeks, the bridge was still out last I was there.

 

[Saint Mike II]

The Paradores @ Leon received a big lift from its exposure in The Way. In fact the room that Martin Sheen had is now often booked out with pilgrims wishing to replicate the scene from the movie. As for the Paradore in Santiago it still allows 5 or 6 pilgrims to stay there each day at special rates - not sure how they select the lucky pilgrims.

BTW JohnnieWalker - that link to the amingos-de-paradores comes up with a security warning from my anti-virus program. But I will look at registering later. Buen Camino

 

[mspath]

.... As for the Paradore in Santiago it still allows 5 or 6 pilgrims to stay there each day at special rates - not sure how they select the lucky pilgrims.

The parador in Santiago provides meals for a select few pilgrims each day. See http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/free-breakfast-at-the-parador-in-santiago.18436/

 

[JohnnieWalker]

As Mspath says: The Parador in Santiago provides free meals not rooms to the first 10 pilgrims each day who queue up at the entrance to the hotel garage (the doormen will direct you). The first 10 pilgrims in the queue can attend for breakfast (9am) lunch (12 noon) and dinner (7pm) for three days on production of a photocopy of the Compostela. The food is served in the staff dining canteen and is the fare provided for the staff.

Que aproveche!